Denab was especially helpful in jointer plane shooting board crack up my finisher and determining the problems with my old LN block skew. The full set of nine craxk on shooting end grain, long grain, shooting boards and planes, etc. Keep in mind that bad technique often imitates a mechanical problem so you have to consider both causes. Click image to enlarge. Take a breath and all will be fine in jointer plane shooting board crack. See my related story " My Jointer Cuts Tapers! It Jointer Plane Shooting Board Quarry surprises me sometimes how many of us forget grain joointer at the jointer.

That way the low angle jointer could be used to joint boards with long grain shooting, shoot wide mitres, and face boards when dimensioning lumber. Great question. Bevel-up vs. I suggest not factoring in long-grain shooting when selecting a jointer plane. Choose based on other considerations just as you would for a jack or smoother. The principal advantage of any jointer plane is, of course, its long length.

Secondarily, its weight and consequent momentum are also helpful. That long length operates effectively only with a two-handed grip along with appropriate pressure on the front and rear handles at the correct stages of the planing stroke. The weight and momentum of the jointer may offer some advantages for long-grain shooting but I find those are superceded by the awkwardness of moving such a big plane with one hand. Since I still want to produce a nice straight edge on the workpiece, I overcome the disadvantage of the shorter plane with technique.

Then, I go to full length shavings. You may find differently but hopefully the reasoning I presented will help you decide. I will drop the long grain shooting from consideration. I am in a sense trying to pick your brain about which plane to choose.

Could be technique, could be setup, could be a myriad of things. My son has a birthday coming up, and I know he has asked for a jointer plane. We work mostly with straight grained wood, not alot of interlocking grain, some reversing grain, and if there is tear out, a cabinet scraper does the job adequately. I appreciate the feedback on long grain shooting, and will drop it out of consideration for the decision of bevel up versus bevel down.

That focuses wear on the knives in one spot or to one side of their length. Having one side sharp and the Ulmia Jointer Plane Zip other side dull can induce tapering across the width of a board.

The sharp side removes more wood while the dull side can actually be a few thousandths shorter because of the focused wear. The only cure for this is to sharpen the knives or replace them. Then, remember to move your fence to different spots along the knives frequently to distribute the wear more evenly. When a jointer produces a concave shape in the surface being jointed make sure that you are not pushing down too hard and flattening the wood out during the cut.

When the pressure is released the wood comes back up. Repeat this error and the concave shape can get worse. If you are sure technique is not an issue look for the outboard end outfeed table to be tilted down slightly. This is a relatively rare occurrence but we do see this problem more often AFTER someone has tried to adjust out a problem that was more likely caused by an error in technique. With an outfeed table that really is tilted away from the infeed table, the wood wants to arc downward during the cut, dragging the trailing portion of the board across the cutters as it tips forward.

The result will be a concave shape. Though less likely, the same thing can occur with a long board that already has a concave shape in the surface being jointed. If the board is too long, the ends are never on the tables at the same time and the concave shape can remain or even be made worse. If possible, cut the board to a length closer to what is actually needed for the project. You can also reverse shorter boards to help take equal amounts from both ends until it is flatter on the jointer beds.

Then take all remaining cuts with the grain. Most better quality jointers have the surface of the tables ground true AFTER they are assembled at the factory. Unless something bad happened to the jointer, it is rare to find the tables out of alignment. When the tables are level to each other, they are said to be coplanar. Lay a long quality straight edge across the tables and its bottom edge should be flat on both tables over its full length. Fixing a non coplanar condition usually means adding shims below the low end of the offending table.

Do not confuse the gib screws on most jointers that control the fit of the table to the sliding ways on the center Jointer Plane Diagram Data housing. I continually see people recommending adjusting the gib screws to fix an out of line table.

In nearly all cases, shims must be placed between the table and the center housing at the correct spot along the rails to fix the condition. On most parallelogram jointers there are adjustments at all four corners that can be used to correct a coplanar error.

Check your instruction manual or contact the manufacturer for details on making this adjustment on your specific jointer. Creating a convex shape, the center of the curve down on the edge being jointed can be caused by technique or one of the tables tilting up at the outboard end.

While this seems to occur more on the outfeed table, don't overlook the infeed table. If the board already has a bow shape and you put the top of that arc down on the jointer tables, it is easy to simply follow that curve, especially if you focus pressure too long on the infeed table. The other end of the board is already up a little and the jointer will remove wood from the portion coming off of the infeed table and it could actually make the convex shape worse or create a taper.

Putting the board with the arc up will help, as will reversing the board after each of the initial cuts to help even out the ends. Then you can make the remaining cuts with the grain.

Also, cutting the board shorter if the project allows will reduce the amount of the bow and make it easier to correct the original defect. If either of the tables is angled upwards running away from center the only solution is to adjust the table so that they are coplanar or level with each other over their full length.

As described in the Concave section above, most jointers require shimming of the offending table to make the correction. With the outboard end of the table being up, the shims will most likely have to go under the inboard end of the table between it and the slides.

Use a long straightedge to be sure that your correction actually made the tables coplanar. Then remember to reset the outfeed table so that it is flush with the top of the knives at the top of their arc. I have to stress the importance of thinking before you start adjusting your jointer. It is very common for problems to be associated with technique rather than mechanical issues with the jointer.

People seem to like pronouncing virtually any jointer difficulty the fault of the jointer with an adjustment required. Remember that it is far easier to alter your technique and do the necessary tests to confirm that the problem lies with the jointer itself.

I have spoken with very frustrated tech line personnel who have had to try and walk people through restoring what was a perfect alignment that had been adjusted away unnecessarily. Remember that you are the one who can actually see and touch your jointer. Take the time to check its alignment before accepting the advice to adjust anything on it. Just because it happened to someone else doesn't automatically mean your jointer is in error the same way.

Jointer Basics Story. My Jointer Cuts Tapers! Have a comment on this story? The weight of the No. The track on the shooting board keeps it in the cut. And the skew cutter makes it easier to push. I prepared the following short video that shows the No. Very nice! Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.

What a great time for quality tools. This No. The additional mass makes the job much easier, but I will stick with my LN 9 and just push a little harder. Denab was especially helpful in setting up my finisher and determining the problems with my old LN block skew. It seems the latter cutters, I have 3, were groung at too steep an angle and will be re-ground to 18 degrees by LN. I was at a hobby store the other day watching a custom frame job. They were using a machine was pretty much just a shooting board and plane on training wheels.

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