Salad Bowl Finish Vs Mineral Oil Industry,Woodwork For Inventor Furniture Design Software Tw,Woodturning Accessories Journal,Wooden Storage Bench Plans Free 3d Model - Good Point
02.08.2020Good stuff I having been using General Finishes Salad bowl finish for a couple years now. Most of my bowls are pine. I wet sand the first coat with grit to cover any lingering blemishes, then fine sand prior to another two or three coats. At least 12 hours between coats, more when its cold in the shop. I get a beautiful smooth final finish with a lot of depth.
I use a minimum of 3 coats, lightt sand in between on all my bowles, platters and hollow forms. American Specialty Hardwoods rolling pin This is a great product. I have been looking for a long time to replace polyurethane and finally found it. Great high gloss finish. I made some bowls out of… I made some bowls out of maple and walnut and was amazed at how this product brought out the beautiful grain of the wood once applied.
Question: How would this work on carved wooden spoons that are actually intended to be used regularly for serving food? I am concerned it will wear too quickly. Answer: I own 2 sawmills in Texas.
Additional coats produces a slightly gloss finish. Stands up to daily rinses in hot soapy water. Hope that helps. I use it to restore restaurant cutting boards used daily and not well cared for by staff. The finish is highly durable and an occasional re-coat maintains the luster. By Steven W. Rust on July 21, It wears well— FDA approved I believe— also I have used it on cutting boards but no as a cutting surface a serving surface and has outstanding gloss —spoons should wear well—several coats making sure dry times— saturating deep in the grain of the wood.
By moemadebb on July 20, Never used on spoons but on cutting boards and after a year the finish is still good. Safe to use and should be great on anything used around food. By Bjohns on July 20, ByPeteon October 13, Verified Purchase I really like the finish on my bowls after at least four coats of salad bowl finish they get a nice gloss to them you can just see the difference on them after each new layer put on.
Very good finish and easy to put on. I used multiple thin coats applied with a cloth to a large salad bowel and the results were excellent. It was best to let dry overnight before subsequent coats also used grit sanding between coats.
My finish is good enough for a centerpiece or user bowl, salad etc for quite a while, as long as they do not stick it in the dishwasher or use it as a flower arrangement bowl with the water added, yup, they do come back with those, can you please fix this???????? Leo Van Der Loo said:. Tom Albrecht said:. What do you mean by "a lot of applications"?
And, how do you apply it? Mike Johnson. Most cities have Fluoride in the water and your worried about a food safe finish on a wood bowl? Steve, got transferred to that dolfin town, we stopped at grocery store before fishing, was not looking for nibs, but had to ask where the nabs were Last edited: Mar 3, Thanks Leo, You gotta charge more for your bowls when you use that!
Last edited: Mar 4, You know, Leo I'm beginning to think along the same terms, here. This subject is discussed from time to time, and I don't recall the results being any different.
There is no general consensus among woodturners for what is, and what isn't a proper finish to use. Now, I do have the General finishes, salad bowl finish I've got some lemon oil wax, that didn't seem very durable.
I've tried a few things, here and there, over the years, but never have been too happy with them. I do have the advantage of having the Danish oil and Beale buffing system already, and am very familiar with using them Never tried just using the third step carnauba in the Beale buff, but I'm thinking I just might do that this time, with this bowl, and see how it goes.
I do recall seeing some warnings about the EEE tripoli causing skin irritations, or something like that. I have that information stashed away in the box I keep the Beale supplies. Because of that, I don't feel comfortable using the compounds for anything intended for food use.
If anyone wants more info on the precautions associated with the compounds, I can get that information for you Still trying to rationalize the shipping costs between US and Canada.
I can order an item from China and have it shipped to the US for peanuts, but when I need to ship some tools to Canada they rape me on the shipping costs and half the time the Canadian postal service holds the package and charges another fee before the recipient can get their package. Mike Johnson said:.
Bill Boehme Administrator Staff member. Beta Tester. I just had the distasteful task of deleting the last several posts. Only the first of them was offensive and violated forum rules regarding civil behavior, but without the offending post, there wasn't any context for the replies so they also were deleted.
Sorry for the inconvenience folks. Odie the EEE tripoli when used in an industrial setting, like when polishing chrome plated bumpers, remember those en de operators did at their own risk in those days, not wear the masks and clothing for that, did sometimes get iritation on the soft tissue around mouth and eyes, as a person told me how they would come out of their shop black as a devil, he said he never had any problem with that, as he would always wear his suit and masks.
In my opinion, for the amount we use this and on wood, not metal with some not so good for you material in it, a mask is all you need, and more for the cloth dust than anything else.
If you read the safety data sheet you will see there is not anything hazardous in there, but when used in the manner as I described, there can certainly a condition being created that for some will irritate their skin, easy to take care of that, just wear a mask.
If it is for your own peace of mind Odie, then yes why not do that, for me I do use it at times for things that will probably not be used for food serving and will look better with more shine, for the salad bowl or other pieces that would or could be used for that, I usually do not, and I am not much for high gloss on those anyway. You must log in or register to reply here. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. The only people have sold bowls to wanting them for food prep or use knew all about mineral oil. They grew up in families using wood bowls. I use laxative type of mineral oil only.
Do not use industrial mineral oil or baby oil. I like walnut oil but shy away from it because of quality issues and cost. Almost all walnut oil from vendors catering to woodworkers get their walnut oil from salad industry.
You can also buy walnut oil from health food or art supply stores. Suppliers often less than honest about quality of their oil. Will find not always getting cold pressed oil, additives to keep oil clear and from stinking often added.
Not until bowls elevated to an art form did we see oil varnish blends and film finishes used on bowls. I know several turners that use oil varnish blends and eat out of those bowls and simply wipe clean. You have not lived until see a film finished bowl come out of a dishwasher and someone ask if you can make it shinny again!
Plain old hot soapy water destroys a lot of wood bowl finishes too! If get around green community will Mineral Oil Salad Bowl Finish Jelly find they do not like Shellac because of DNA used in that finish.
If going to turn bowls and used them in your home that is one thing but if going to sell them be careful about marketing them. I sell more bowls as works of art than for food use. I just do not get fine art prices for those bowls. General or Behlens Salad bowl finish will give you a gloss finish but it isn't as easy as it seems. I would flood the first coat to seal, wait a few days and then sand with about a grit depending on how deep you needed to fill.
Then wipe on a few coats and sand with grit. Then wipe on a few more coats and sand with Then wipe on a few more coats. Then wet sand with and then wet sand with and grit. OK, now buff with the Beal system, white diamond and then Carnuba wax. Providing you don't use a knife in the bowl. For a real food safe bowl with high gloss finish it is the only way I know of that works. This is outside of the world that says all finishes that have dried are food safe.
These are actually tested. There is no magic to their formula to make them "safe" compared to many other products that are not FDA approved. So if you are nervous about chemicals and metals, FDA approval may not mean what you think. If you trust the FDA, many other products on the market have the same make-up just not the expensive approval.
When reading an MSDS or SDS keep in mine not all toxic chemicals need to be listed in section two if manufacture deems amount too small to worry about. You want to be aware of health concerns working with and storing products as well as safety to others you give or sell your work too.
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