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23.07.2020For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser. When you're working with hand tools, holding the workpiece securely is a must — and a solid bench vise is like an extra set of very strong hands.
It can hold stock in a variety of positions, enabling you to make smoother saw cuts and more steady plane strokes. We carry several types and sizes of vises, including models that permanently attach to your bench and others that can be clamped on and then removed between uses. Here's a little information to help you pick the vise that makes the most sense for your shop. There are two basic types of bench vise: the front vise and the end vise.
The front vise, most often installed at the left corner of the long edge of the workbench, is great for holding a drawer side upright while you cut the tails of a dovetail joint or holding a board edge-up horizontally for hand planing.
The end vise, so named because it is installed at one end of the bench, is designed to hold material flat on the surface of the bench, secured between one or more "dogs" sticking up from the top of the vise's jaw and corresponding dogs fitted into holes in the bench surface.
The first typically costs more, but installs easier. Your benchtop must clear the bench base or legs for mounting. Bolt or screw this type of face vise onto an existing benchtop in less than an hour. You might have to shim it to flush the jaws with the benchtop and notch the benchtop to align the inner jaw with the edge. A pivoting-jaw vise holds irregular-shape stock without racking the jaws.
You also can remove the pivoting jaw for parallel-jaw clamping. Magnet-lined wood jaw pads stay in place without screws. A cast-iron-jaw vise can be recessed into the bottom of a bench for maximum strength and stability. A thick outer jaw distributes clamping force over a wide surface area. Add shop-made accessories to your workbench.
The benchtop or apron serves as the fixed jaw, while the movable jaw travels on a single screw [ Photo F ]. Because the outer jaw has a tongue that slides in a groove on the fixed arm, it has enough play to let you clamp uneven-shaped workpieces. A shoulder vise gives you floor-to-ceiling clamping space between its jaws. A threaded bushing mortised into the vise shoulder unseen keeps the screw on track. And high humidity could cause the parts to swell and bind.
As the name implies, this vise installs into the bench leg, which sometimes serves as the fixed jaw. With a flush-fitting vise, the leg itself serves as a full-length fixed jaw. A leg vise moves via a single screw with a pinned sliding guide rail to maintain parallelism. The guide-rail pin rests against end-grain hard-maple pads that prevent compressing the softer alder leg of this bench.
However, you can build up some legs to make a leg vise work. These mount to the end of the bench and typically work with bench dogs along the length of the benchtop. If you prefer rectangular dogholes, cut those notches in the boards before gluing them to the benchtop; round holes can be drilled before or after assembly.
A traditional tail vise [ Photos H and I ] consists of a rectangular or L-shape block of wood the jaw fastened to a steel or cast-iron fixture that slides back and forth in a cutaway corner of the bench. A long mortise accepts the screw and threaded fixture, and the upper guide rail fits in the slot. A lower guide rail, not shown, mounts beneath the jaw.
The tail vise slides back and forth along the guide rails, held in place by the screw assembly. Too much clamping force, however, can cause boards to bow up. Typically, you use two rows of bench dogs to hold long or wide stock. The timing chain on a twin-screw end vise syncs the screws.
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23.07.2020 at 20:37:18 Our Search box and press enter to kitchdn only the tape measure, but also mounting.
23.07.2020 at 10:37:44 Holes needed to be drilled on the long edge to match.