I didn't loose money selling wood strip kayak plans lyrics, but your figure per hour lyrixs far off! The shaping of the taper requires some precision fitting for tight joints at both ends. TuckerFife 6 years ago. Choosing a sea wkod - a few considerations and tips about selecting the right type of sea kayak to fit your size, skill and paddling style. Kayak strip clamping mechanism, now obsolete. They are easy to build but handsome The grooves tend to be small and they will fill up with epoxy.

While anyone can do it, the project does require an investment in materials and time. Saving money by skimping on the plans will cost you time and money in the long run and produce a less satisfying boat. We design, build and use our boats. This is important. We use these boats so we know how they work. We build these boats so we know how they go together. And we design these boats so they go together easily and perform well. We are enthusiastic and commited users of small boats.

Honestly, the only thing better than building a boat is getting out on the water in a boat you built yourself. It takes years of experience on the water to learn how a small boat handles in all conditions. We design boats to do more than merely float. They will perform. You want a boat that helps you enjoy your time on the water, not fight against you.

Everything goes hand-in-hand. Since we build them, we know how to design them so they can be built. Since we use them, we know how to design them so the perform well on the water and build them so they hold up to our abuse. We have broken more boats than most peole have built. This teaches us how to build them so they can take the abuse. Quality boat design requires constant feedback between how the boat handles on the water and what is being drawn in CAD.

With years of experience on the water, we know what makes a good design really sing when you use it. The continuous cycle of Design-Build-Use creates quality boats that you can build, that will last well and perform to the highest standards.

We have boat designs for every use. From simple, lightweight double paddle canoes, to seaworthy roughwater, sliding seat rowing craft. High performance sea kayaks to high capacity dinghies. These strips can be used as is or you can mill them further and make cove and bead strips. The strip thus becomes like a tongue and groove board. The bead nestles neatly into the cove ensuring a tight joint.

There are several advantages to this. The first is a light-tight joint, you won't get any embarrassing light shining through your hull. The surface stays smoother because the joint assures that neighboring strips stay at the same elevation. Because of this, you don't need as many staples.

Finally all the above happens while you are stripping around bends. If you just leave the edges "natural" you will end up with grooves between the strips. Structurally this is not too big a problem. The grooves tend to be small and they will fill up with epoxy. It doesn't look good however, and the boat will be lighter and stronger if you don't have the grooves.

Since the grooves fill up with epoxy, you are adding the extra weight of the epoxy unneccessarily. If the groove does not fill up there is room for the structure to collapse. To fix these problems you can plane the edges. With care this will create nice tight joints. There is nothing wrong with this technique. I've built my boats this way for years. With a little practice you soon become proficient at planing in a rolling bevel that changes as the shape of the boat varies. It does take practice and patience to do a good job.

Luckily perfection is not required. Like I said about the natural edges, any gap will fill with epoxy. I've also found that with some of my more compex shapes, especially those with hollow sections, that the cove and bead actually makes the strips want to lift off the forms. The geometry of the cove and bead makes them most comfortable when there is only a small angle between adjacent strips. With more extreme curves, the bead may lift out of the cove creating a gap.

This gap may not be visible until after you have done some sanding. Because of this, when I want the tightest joints between strips, I will often take the time to individually hand bevel each strip instead of using the faster and easier cove and bead.

The advantage of cove and bead strips is the cove accepts the bead even when it comes in at an angle so a tight joint is assured even around fairly tight corners. The disadvantage of cove and bead strips is you need to make or buy them. You can find several sources for cove and bead cutting router bits. You then run the strips one-by-one through the router for the bead and then the cove.

Even with good tools this is not the easiest task. Again it takes some patience. You need to be careful not the make the edges of the cove too fine as they will be delicate. The average router bit is 1" in diameter and this small size can result in tearout and ragged edges. It is hard to say whether cove and bead strips are worth it. They make the boat go together faster, but you pay for it with some additional time up front if you are cutting your own. You will pay a bit of a premium if you buy pre-milled strips, but chances are they will be better than strips that you can make yourself and you save quite a bit of labor time.

The tendancy is to try and use full-length strips. It seems logical that one strip that is long enough to span the full length of the boat would be easier than piecing together several shorter strips. For some parts of the boat this is true, but not always.

You would also think that avoiding joints in a strip would creating a stronger boat. This is not something you need to worry about. Short strips are actually easier to work with sometimes.

A 18' strip needs to be handled with some care. It is hard to move around a shop. A 9' strip is alot easier to handle.

When you get to the bottom of the boat you need to taper both ends of a strip to fit into the remaining space. The shaping of the taper requires some precision fitting for tight joints at both ends. It is easier if you fit one end of one strip and the other end of another, then fit a joint between them somewhere in the middle. Short strips need to be joined together to fill the same space as a long strip. This can be accomplished with several different scarf joint.

The simplest is just a butt joint.

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