I am trying to make roiginal crib match and the stain keeps showing through. Thank you! On the table. This Original Waterlox will penetrate fully into your floor and waterproof it. Moral of the waterlox original reviews We love chalk paint. Not even the spill from your cup of coffee nor the high number of people waterlox original reviews on your floor will spoil this wood floor finish. I like the acrylic paint advice!

Good luck with your future projects!! Thanks for the recommendation! I really should take my time to make sure I do them right. Girlfriend I hear you! Let me know how it goes. Hi Amy, These are great tips for prep when it becomes necessary. My brother uses it on cars as he does bodywork for reprinting cars. Thank you for the detailed description about how to use it. Here are my two cent tips to share… 1 Liquid Sander Deglosser is great for really slick surfaces and supper easy to use. Your paint will go a lot further if you use this product first over high gloss surfaces.

This will save paint, steps and time. So, instead of a third or maybe even four coats of paint, you can usually paint the normal two coats and maybe even just one coat.

You just saturate a terry cloth towel or rag and wipe over the surface. It dries in 10 minutes or less and you are ready to paint. It is also a very good cleaner. When all else fells, TSP is excellent for cleaning all unknown crud lurking on old furniture. To test whether or not you will get bleed through before painting, here is a simple test… Dampen a paper towel and lay it on the surface and let it sit for about minutes.

If you get bleed through onto the paper towel, then you know you need to seal it before painting. Love this paint and it is a little less costly, as well!

Tina, these are fantastic tips! Thanks so much for sharing. Love these tips! But I have to redo this one table I did with a milk paint. But the bottom of a wet vase took the paint right off: this never happened before.

And would a poly be better, for a better sealer? Hi Mimi! Yes and Yes. You can prime with shellac then paint with milk paint, and a poly is a stronger sealer in my opinion. Any water-based poly would be great though. Probably the easiest way to fix this would be to remove all the wax from the entire top with mineral spirits. Lightly sand the damaged area, apply shellac if you think you need it, repaint the entire top so it looks even, then apply a few coats of poly.

I think you could get away with just polying the top and not redoing the sides, unless you think the paint may peel in other areas too. Hi, thanks for the blog. I am a very conventional painter and knowing why we sand and clean a surface and being aware why paint does what it does, I have a hard time to believe that chalk paint can bypass prep work if you want a durable coat that sticks for many years.

Since most paints are now water based, you have to make sure that the surface you paint is not hydrophobic, so any greasy or silicone spots must be gone. Paint only sticks to the surface right under it. So if that layer is in bad shape and starts flaking or loosening, your new coat comes off with it. That is one reason of sanding, to discover those weak spots that you will over look with quickly wiping a rag over a piece.

However, sanding, by creating micro grooves in the surface, most of all increases the contact area with the paint, creating a much stronger bond. Could you shed a light on the chemical and pshysical properties of this paint in comparrison to other paint, that would explain the difference? Thanks, Barry. Hey Tomi! When veneer is intact, you do not need to do anything to prep it other than making sure the surface is clean.

I have 4 composite wood chairs white and want to paint them a walnut color. First, can it be done; 2nd can I use Annie Sloan paint? Hi Anna! You can absolutely paint composite wood with chalk paint.

Because of this, I would probably opt to throw a coat of primer down before I start painting, but you might be able to get away without it. Really liked your tips. Just got started 3 days ago and painted just about everything.

If husband was not so busy I probably would have painted him as well. And then….. Painted and old office desk laminated or Veneer as you guys in UK would say and disaster. I thought no prepping. I spend so much time painting this table even did gold leave on it. When I start the waxing process I realized that the paint if coming of. Rush to the paint shop and bought water based sealer from plascon and tried a corner at the bottom.

Have to wait 48 hours but after 8 hours if you scratch if with your nails it leaves a mark. What to do, please help me. Hi Louise! Somehow I missed this comment earlier, so please forgive my late response. Is that happening? Hoping it all worked out for you! This was great! Your examples are specific and your suggestions for solutions simple and straight forward. The answer really is dependent on the material and the condition as well as the desired look they are wanting.

I really like how you broke it down, thank you for the awesome post! Hi Misty! Such a sweet comment! Thanks so much for stopping by. Btw, I just visited your blog. Love what you did with the laundry room. Hi Sharon! Chalkboard paint right? Not chalk paint. If you ever decide to paint over the chalkboard you will have to prime it before covering with regular paint again. Hope that helps :. Can you use chalk paint over oil based paint? I have a corner cabinet that was painted several years with oil based paint and I would like to change the color, the chalk paint sounds so much easier than using oil based again.

Hi Becky! Typically you can paint right over oil based paint with no issue. You can test it by painting a little section and letting it dry. Then give it the scratch test. If the paint is sticking well, you should be good. If I have a piece that has been painted with chalkpaint, can the piece be painted over with regular paint?

Would any prep be required to do so? Hi Tommy! Yes, if you paint over chalk paint with latex paint or something similar, you will have to prep the surface.

Great Tips! If I buy the spray shellac, do I just put it right on the spot? What is the next step? Paint again? Hi Amie! Yes, you can just spray the shellac right on the trouble spots. It dries fairly quickly, and I would do a couple coats. Make sense? Hope that helps and thanks for pinning! Thank you so much! I am pretty sure your blog is my new favorite obsession! I just painted my bed a grey color and it was without using chalk paint.

It turned out horrible. I just bought some chalk paint and I am asking if I need to sand my bed before I paint again since I just painted it. Hey Desiree! What was horrible about it? Just the color or was the paint not adhering well? Hope that helps and good luck! It is an older piece so there is some kind of vainer on it. Do I need to sand it down to wood? But it appears to have had some kind of distressing done to it previously.

Hey Janine! A good cleaning, and as you said, knocking down the high spots to smooth it out should be all you need for your paint to adhere properly. Good luck with your project. French Provincial pieces are some of my favorites! I have nest of tables which have been previously French polished, how to I prep this to put chalk paint on? You actually might be able to paint right over it with no prep other than a thorough cleaning. You can try putting a little paint down, let it dry then scratch it.

Does it peel up easily with your fingernail? If so you need to prep. If you do need to prep, I would probably just scuff it up with a sander. So sorry I missed this question the first time! Yes, you can absolutely use chalk paint over enamel. Is the existing paint job done well?

No drip marks, peeling paint, etc? If so, you can likely just clean it well and start painting. Sorry for the long answer! Good luck!! I also use the shellac-based BIN, and the bullseye spray shellac. All work great and the spray shellac is awesome for small pieces and spot coverage for small bleed through areas.

I want to use white chalk paint on my mahogany bedroom furniture. Should I prime over the factory finish or do any chemical treatment first? Thank you for your time! Hi Jan! I would prime first. And yes, if you seal it with wax you will eventually have to re-wax it at some point. How often the furniture is used will determine how often you would have to re-wax the finish. I use general finishes water based top coat on most pieces I paint and really like it.

I have 2 projects to ask about: 1. I sanded, wiped down, primed and painted with latex paint an old chair for my grandson for a lego table with black and bold colors. The Table did great but the chair peeled with every color used. Do I need to sand it all down again, TSP and repaint it? He mom would like me to paint it so she can paint her own designs on it. I chalk paint a good surface for her to paint on?

Should she use darker colors of Chalk Paint for her designs over the base color? And seal it all with a water based poly? Thank you, your page has been helpful, I have never used Chalk Paint, but want to try it.

Kathy Buser. Hey Kathy! So sorry! On the table.. TSP could make a difference. I finally sanded it really well, then primed and painted and it was fine. Some pieces are just stubborn. Paint a little swatch of paint and let it dry, then scratch it with your fingernail. Does it peel right off? If so I would sand the heck out of it. Yes, chalk paint would be a fantastic surface for her. You can use darker chalk paint colors, but depending on what she wants to paint and how many colors she needs, that could get super expensive.

You can actually buy those little tubes of acrylic paint at the craft store and she can use those to paint her design. I would definitely seal the dresser with a water based poly afterward, and the same sealer would be a good choice for the chair as well.

Hope that helps and I do apologize for the delayed response!! Amy, thank you for your response! I was afraid that I would have to strip the chair down and redo it! Next time I will strip down further, TSP this time, primer again and paint only black this time, Not so much work. I appreciate your advice on the paint for the dresser.

I like the acrylic paint advice! Much easier than several cans of paint. Any suggestions before I get started and create a disaster haha. Hey Kristina! Choose a poly or something strong enough to withstand heavy use.

Wishing you luck with your project and if you run into any problems or have specific questions just email me :. Any suggestions on what brand poly I should buy? And also do you think sanding would be a good idea? Thanks again. Varathane water based high traffic formula would probably be a good choice. It would be really easy to accidentally sand too deep. Just clean it and use a coat or two of primer. For primers I like Zinsser brand. Amy, not too long ago I refinished a triple dresser…white drawers and black top.

I sealed it with poly as I wanted to protect it well from grandchildren. I used an oil-based poly and yes, it turned yellow. Can I use chalk paint directly over this poly to fix this.

The thought of removing the poly seems like a lot of work! Thank you! Hey Joann! To test adhesion: paint a small test spot, let it dry completely then scratch it. If it peels right up you have an adhesion problem and you need to prime it.

They are a dark colour which I think is varnished. Presumably I will have to sand them first. Can you advise me please,. Hi Cathie! You should be able to just clean them well and it would probably be a good idea to throw on a couple coats of primer before you paint. Our GC suggested an oil primer. Should we sand, prime, then paint? Should we also wax afterwards? Hey Mara! Varathane high traffic formula would be a good option to consider. Hi, I have a varnished pine cabinet thst I want to paint in aspc Paris Grey.

Also would I need to sand it prior to any painting? Hi Maureen! Ordinary household paint is also perfectly acceptable to use, but you will definitely need to prime if you go that route. Hi there! Can I use chalk paint without any prep on my raw wood cabinets? Hi Denysse! The short answer is yes, you can use chalk paint directly on raw wood and it usually works beautifully. The only issue you might run into is the wood bleeding, depending on the type of wood it is. I use Zinsser primers a lot and like them.

Hi, Just found your site! I have painted over an old wooden table with Miss Lillians Chock paint and then applied the Satin luster coat and let it dry. Then I noticed some paint brush hairs in the finished table.

So I picked them free and had a strip of table showing thru in several areas so I touched up the spots with chalk pain without even thinking about the flat spots on top of the satin finish. So now what do I do? Repaint the whole table with chalk paint then satin luster? Or just put the satin stuff on top of the touched up spots? Should I sand it if I repaint it? I am kinda of afraid to proceed without advice.

Thanks ahead of time…. What a pain to be almost finished then have to keep working on it. Did you just carefully paint in the tiny places where the brush hair was? Assuming you can paint over the satin luster, I would just do another full coat of paint right over top then seal it again.

Read the satin luster instructions though. You may have to wait for it to cure before painting or even remove it before painting. Thanks also I have found dixie belle paints are great they also have glazes and this new product called sea spray i think it is which i cant wait to try. Every piece is different. To check adhesion, paint a small swatch on, let it dry completely then scratch it.

If it peels up you have a problem. After my first coat of paint, the stain bled through my white paint so I applied shellac over that. I then did two more coats of white paint. My question is, if I wanted to distress my piece now, will the stain bleed again through the distressing? Chalk paint. A very sad commissioned job gone wrong. Hey Jen!

The last thing you want to do is shortcut the repair and have it start chipping again after you finish it a second time. Just chalk it up as a learning experience and move forward. Thank you!!

Strip it back down, sand, and prime!! I appreciate your response and honesty. I suppose the only way to learn is by making mistakes. Any tips on the best way to strip all the paint off?

If you really need to strip it, Citristrip is my favorite. Using a power sander would be easier and faster. Fantastic tip! Hi I was thinking about using white chalk paint on my interior doors, at the moment they are just glossy white but I wanted to make them more distressed looking. Can you paint directly over gloss or should I sand down first and is chalk paint ok for doors and frames and even skirting boards? Just wipe them down and dry them first.

I used chalk paint on the inside of the door leading out to my garage about a year ago and it still looks great. Use a water-based poly I like General Finishes high performance top coat or Varathane crystal clear heavy use formula. And yes, you can use chalk paint on door frames, etc. You will have to seal the chalk paint everywhere you use it. Hi,my first venture using chalk paint. Will prime first following your guidelines above but should I wax afterwards or use something else because of the wet environment.

Will wax work?. Ps,Shellac the best primer?. I like all of the zinsser primers,, Zinsser is supposed to prevent mildew growth and peeling so it might be a good choice for a bathroom. I would probably use varathane crystal clear heavy use formula. I bought a dresser like 6 months ago to redo it for a changing table. Prego w 3 and due in 2 weeks!

My husband sprayed on the paint and when it dried it bubbled and chipped off in some areas! So I did all this being eight and a half months pregnant on my hands and knees lol and hand painted over the areas after they had been sealed and dried and obviously all dust vacuumed and wiped off. This morning I woke up and the same thing happened!!!!!! In less areas but still some of the drawers and problem areas I had before! Thanks girl. Hey Kelly! Congrats on the new baby!!!

How exciting! Same as you, even after priming it kept peeling. I had to sand it down to bare wood, re-prime it then paint. I know not what you want to do this late in your pregnancy but hopefully husband can help. Wishing you lots of luck with everything!!

I would like to chalk paint my year old stairs. There are several layers of paint under the nasty brown color that is on them now. My question is should I prime before using chalk paint and should I brush it on or roll it on?

Love the tutorial- cross your fingers I can do this!!! No need to sand, just prime and paint! I love that your hubs is building the rest of the furniture for you! Have fun with your projects! I want to use chalkpaint on my kitchen cabinets they areven oak and fairly new so they have clear coat on them I used a little on it and let dry and when I use my finger nail on it it scraped off do I need to prime first?

I would prime kitchen cabinets no matter what because they are so heavily used. As someone who is seriously getting the upcycling bug, these tips certainly help me, thank you so much. I have one question though. I am having trouble with a chair I am currently working on. It originally looks like its been painted black, I probably should have sanded them all down at first hindsight is wonderful.

However I applied one coat yesterday and on applying the second coat today it seems like the paint is caking, and coming off in places if that makes sense. Any tips on how I can sort this out would be grealy appreciated. Hi Hannah! You need to sand or strip the chair. If that existing paint is flaking off, nothing you put on top of it will fix the issue permanently. I just came across your site this morning amd love it.

I love all the tips and info. Thank you so much for sharing. My friend and I are going into business together doing the samething as you and your mom and are hoping to have a store someday too. I love your website set up, who do you go through? Hi Alyssa! Congrats on the new business! I have a wordpress. If you have any specific questions, feel free to email me at canarystreetcrafts gmail.

Best of luck with your business! High penetration properties. This product of Tung oil has very high penetrating capabilities.

It gets deep down into your wood the first time you apply it. This first coat will sink into your wood, and the second coat will partly soak into your wood too. You, therefore, need a third coat so that your finish becomes even. This penetration ensures that your finish lasts longer and resists wear. Ease of application and maintenance. To apply your floor finish, you do not necessarily require skilled labor.

You can do it yourself by clearly following the given instructions. The maintenance is quite easy. If only a part of your floor has been worn out or scratched, you can refinish it alone without having to redo it for the whole floor. Touch upon it chemically bonds with the layer beneath it making your floor look new again. After your Waterlox floor finish has cured, it becomes a safe surface. It is non-toxic and food-safe.

It takes longer to dry. This is its main drawback. For your finish to be complete, you need at least three coats.

Each one of these coats takes 24 hours to dry. After the floor finish has been successfully applied, you need to be gentle on it for at least seven days. This means before these seven days are over, you cannot place your furniture; it is best only to allow light foot traffic. It may turn out unattractive for lighter wood.

Waterlox looks perfect for floors for wood, such as mahogany. However, if your wood floor's color is lighter, like a red oak floor, the amber color of this finish will look quite out of place.

This waterlox floor finish is very flexible. In cases of extremely high or low temperatures, this finish can put up with the contraction and expansion of your wood floor. This floor finish is made of Tung oil, which offers enough deep penetration into your wood, thus increasing its durability.

This Tung oil is known for its beauty, and therefore your floor finish will be very stunning. This original waterlox floor finish is completely waterproof. Water flowing on your floor or other household spills will not affect your finish at all. Also, you do not have to worry whenever your floor is scratched. You just have to refinish that scratched part, and the new coat chemically bonds with the existing coat giving you a perfect finish.

This ease of maintenance is very key. When you are constructing your new house or renovating the existing one, how to finish your wood floors Blue Bear Lead Paint Remover Reviews Inc remains one of the greatest concerns.

It would be best if you had a wood finish to penetrate your wood and survive for the longest time possible. Waterlox fully penetrates your floor and has to be applied in three coats.

Not only will it penetrate your wood, but it also strengthens it. Hardeners added in its proprietary mix makes it quite durable and wear-resistant.

Any floor finish should be water-resistant. Waterlox is waterproof; not only can you use it on your floors but also on the wood tops in the damp-prone areas; kitchen and bathroom. Many people experience headaches once their floors are scratched, maybe, unfortunately, at the very entrance of their lounges.

However, with waterlox, this should not give you a headache. The touch you apply on this scratched part completely bonds with the rest of the floor, making it look new again! You do not have to refinish the whole floor, just the scratched part! The waterlox Original Satin finish has many upsides, and just very few drawbacks making it a very outstanding floor finish.

Though it may take longer to cure, the results will be worthwhile. Unlike other wood floor finishes that dry and cure in just a few hours, one coat of this wood finish takes a whole 24 hours. You have to consider that a minimum of three coats must be applied, then allow for curing for a minimum of 7 days.

The result is a finish that has fully penetrated the wood, strengthening it too. Its water resistance will also come out to be great. Besides, this floor finish is stronger than other clear floor finishes, considering that hardeners were added into the proprietary mix. Your finish will, therefore, be very durable and able to resist scratches and wear. Lastly, you will be amazed by how attractive your floor comes out, with a beautiful amber floor finish!

A: This has been the greatest concern raised by the users of this wood finish. Waterlox floor finish has a high rate of penetration; thus, it soaks into your wood. Therefore, your floor finish will require about three coats for it to be even and complete.

One coat requires approximately 24 hours to cure fully. Thus, for the three coats, you need about 72 hours. After you have completed applying your floor finish, it will not have fully cured. You have to give it about seven days, whereby only light foot traffic should pass on your floor. I recommend that you allow a few people into space and be in a pair of socks when walking over them.

You should also not add nor replace the furniture in this space until the seven days are over. After these seven days, your waterlox floor finish will have cured. Q: What Is Waterlox. A: Waterlox is a company in Ohio that is family-owned and was started in Waterlox is a wood finish used mainly on wood floors. This floor finish is a product of Tung oil.

It is a finish that penetrates deep into your wood. The Tung oil not only protects your wood but also strengthens it.

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