Maybe this "food safe finish". I have taken this wagco to the local club and called and talked to some of my friends whom I respect their knowledge n our trade. Hi, every one, I have a problem watco salad bowl finish queen this finish and am hung up for an answer slad remedy this for almost more than a month. Thread starter Phillip Medghalchi Start date Jan 28, Tags finish finishing problem finsihig with watco butcher block problem walnut bowl. Photo Gallery New media New comments.

Last edited by a moderator: Jan 29, Gary Beasley. What I see is end grain absorbing heavily as well as some area of fine tearout making the dull patches.

You might need to wash the finish off and sand everything to get rid of the tearout. Not sure if the area that got dark from over absorption will lighten up but the look wont be as bad as you think once the finish is even. Richard Coers. It's really tough to get a film built up when you are using that much thinner. You'll have to put on about 20 coats tif you want a film build up. Was the wood dry? Last edited: Jan 28, Bill Boehme Administrator Staff member. Beta Tester.

It looks like you aren't applying the Watco Butcher Block Finish as intended. It is basically thinned tung oil with some resins. I would prefer using a straight oil finish, but this product can be applied the same way: apply with a rag, rubbing it in and then let it sit for about ten minutes. Next, use a clean rag to wipe the surface dry. Wait about a half hour and then wipe the surface again to remove any of the finish that has seeped out of the pores.

It appears that you might have applied really heavy coats and then let it sit like you would if applying a varnish. I like walnut oil. It's quick and easy and doesn't darken the Watco Salad Bowl Finish 80 wood as much as linseed oil or tung oil does. And, it smells nice. I don't care for layering different types of finishes so I wouldn't normally apply a film finish over an oil finish.

HOWEVER, if you do want to follow the oil finish with a film finish, I would suggest waiting several weeks to allow time for the oil to catalyze. I see a lot of deep sanding scratches. Don't skip grits when sanding. PS: Each image was posted three times. I removed the duplicates. If you see an error like this, you have the ability to go back and make corrections.

Doug Freeman. This product is very similar to minwax wipe on poly, with tung oil instead of linseed oil, which doesnt effect the application process. Both use alkyd resin and are approximately the same solids. I dont know how hard the watco oil will get with alkyd solids it should harden reasonably well.

The issue I see is the wood surface was not uniformly sanded before finish application. It sounds like your application method is to apply a film with a brush and walk away. If correct, I would expect to see exactly what General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish Queen the pics show. This is not blotching. Its a dry film finish on the shiny areas, And no or insufficient film thickness in the rough areas. I see 3 possible paths forward: 1 keep adding coats and sanding back until the rough areas start to bridge and build a film.

These areas will not look great but ok. I use a lot of wipe on poly. Besides getting a better, more consistent sanded surface, something that will help is to apply a couple of coats like danish oil - flood on, keep wet for min, wipe off.

This will seal the surface. Then apply a brushed film which will dry more uniformly on the surface. Whether to remount depends on whether you prefer to sand on or off the lathe. Last edited: Jan 30, Gary Beasley said:.

Click to expand Hi Richard Coers said:. Roger Wiegand Beta Tester. Phillip Medghalchi said:. I did look at the MSDS and although that I am not clear about it, I see that most of it indeed is toxic chemicals, and I am not sure how they say it's food safe finish? Greg Norman. They said I was not wiping off the excess well enough. I tried doing a better job of wiping it down after flooding and waiting a bit. I did get better results on some bowls but no matter what I tried I still had some that looked Watco Salad Bowl Finish 82 similar to yours.

I now only use walnut oil on food contact items and never have any problems. Roger, i appreciate your insight and the tip. The main issue for using this product was that to put on a finish that's food safe and FDA approved. I have used this product in the past on Mesquite and Bradford Pear that Bill can attest to it, since he is in the same general area that I live.

What I was trying to figure out was why is it doing it on Walnut and is there any more preparation that was necessary that I Watco Salad Bowl Finish 65 failed to do. I followed the can's instruction and applied the finish directly on the raw wood which now I realize form above posts that I made a mistake and did not seal the wood before applying the finish.

I also, noticed that it was best to put it on and wife off the excess and come back wipe it again until I build up a nice finish. Teh direction on this oil finish did not say so. When talking to the manufacturer the rep could not tell me in what environment they did the test before the write up the directions. The other issue was that I was not too sure about it being a film. The misleading ithe direction of the can says that apply to bare wood. Michael Lyle. I am wondering what you are going to eat out of a walnut bowl.!!!!!

Not trying to bea wise guy Maybe this "food safe finish". Next question: Have you used any sanding sealer? Clifton C. Michael, I use my bowls for any and everything. All the things on your list and then some. I throw them in a sink full of hot soapy water scrub, rinse and drip dry. I ran one thru the dishwasher because every one said not to, figured if it got ruined, I knew where to get another. It got fuzzy so I re-sanded I agree with your point, I don't think we are putting ourselves in danger, but with all the things we make, the finish has to match the piece.

I don't mind a lacquered bowl that sits on a shelf, I just know not to throw it in with the utility bowls. Where was I going with this? I can't remember. All yer cash goes for Tung oil. An you cant afford real dishwater safe plates Bacon and eggs???? Well I would make sure I rinsed soon after breakfast I do not mean to offend As to affording real plates, I've been called a cheap bast! I prefer "Thrifty" yea, Thrifty that's what I am I have used Waterlox, but not for salad bowls.

Do like Waterlox for build when I want a really shiney look, but never use it up fast enough. Some of you may know of Eugen Schlaak in Niagara Falls. He has been using Watco for 35 years and virtually nothing else. I was using home brew for a umber of years, but now really like the Watco. If you can get your hands on some Bush Oil, it dries quickly and is much like the General Salad Bowl in final finish and will build faster than the Watco. Re: Watco vs Waterlox???

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