STANLEY has been the professional tradesman’champion since Insight, invention and innovation have always been at the heart of everything we do. In this episode of the Hand Plane Video Series, Ernie Conover introduces you to the Stanley #97 chisel plane. Learn how to set up and use the Stanley #97 Chisel Plane. This is the plane to use when you need to work into a corner up to an inside edge. The Full Article is for Magazine Subscribers Only. Verify Subscription by Email Address. Verify. OR. Verify Subscription by Account Number. Verify. Or you've lovingly brought an older Stanley Hand Plane to bright and shiny condition. And now you're ready to put a fine finish on a treasured piece of wood. But is your plane ready to make the wispy shavings you're hoping for? What can you do to set up your plane for the best results? Here are seven steps to get peak performance from your hand planes. Sharpen and Hone the Blade. Your plane will never work as it should without a well-sharpened and honed blade.

You've just purchased that new smoothing plane you've had your eye on for so long. Or you've lovingly brought an older Stanley Hand Plane to bright and shiny condition. And now you're ready to put a fine finish on a treasured piece of wood. But is your plane ready to make the wispy stanley hand plane set up sfanley hoping for?

What can you do to set up your plane for the best results? Here are seven steps to get peak performance from your hand planes. Sharpen and Hone the Blade. Your plane will never work as it should without a well-sharpened and honed blade. Premium planes will cut reasonably well right out of the box, but to perform their best even they need a plame preparation. Budget stanley hand plane set up and survivors from an earlier era require even more attention.

First, flatten and polish the back of the blade to remove any machining marks. Work your blade back and forth across the sharpening stonesstarting with your coarsest grit and working up through the grits until all hwnd have been removed and you achieve a mirror polish.

This job only needs to be done once, but even on premium planes it's a necessary step. Don't go overboard; you are really only concerned with the final half inch or so of the blade's back. The rest of the blade will never touch the wood and can be safely ignored. Next turn your attention to the bevel. Exceptions are blades set at a higher cutting angle for difficult grain.

If your bevel is not at the right angle, the edge is not square to the sides, or the cutting edge is nicked you'll need to regrind it. This can be done on a grinder—an 8 inch slow-speed grinder is best stanleey this work, a water-cooled, large wheel grinder even better—but good results can be achieved by working the blade on PSA sandpaper attached to a dead flat surface. I start with 80 grit paper and work up to grit. Once the bevel is shaped to the proper angle, it, too, will need to be polished mirror smooth by working your way through the grits of whatever stone or sandpaper method you use.

While some woodworkers are able to get good results by hand holding their blades, I highly recommend a honing plame to produce consistent, repeatable results. If your restored plane has a blade that's in very rough condition, you may find it easier to purchase an aftermarket replacement blade. Not only will you start with a blade that's in premium condition, but syanley will be made of a more durable modern stanpey than was available when the older planes were originally made.

This will need to be done on all blades, as even premium blades do hanv come with a micro bevel. Once again, start with your coarsest stone and stroke until you've established a thin line evenly across the tip of the blade.

Then proceed to the next higher grit. Finish by giving it a hahd polish with your highest stone. Do a careful job here; it's the micro bevel that meets the wood and produces those fine shavings. Finally, to get the sharpest edge, use David Charlesworth's ruler trick to put sett very kp back bevel on the blade. Place a thin ruler lengthwise on the rear edge of your stone. Stanley hand plane set up, lay the blade on the stone bevel side up with the cutting edge off the far edge of the stone.

While making back-and-forth sideways motions, carefully pull the blade onto the stone, then push it off again, repeating the process up stanley hand plane set up 10 times.

Do this using each of your stones, working to your highest grit. The result—a high polish on the extreme sfanley of the blade back that gives the sharpest edge. Once done, this step need not be repeated, though you may stanpey to refresh the back bevel with your finest stone each time you re-hone stanley hand plane set up microbevel. Now that stanley hand plane set up blade is sharpened and honed to perfection, you will ordinarily only need to refresh the micro bevel on your finest stone from time to time to keep it in top cutting condition.

Upgrading Your Plane Satnley. If your blade is in bad shape—either badly stanldy or rusted—you might be better off installing a new replacement blade. Several manufacturers offer stanley hand plane set up blades in a variety of widths to plsne older Stanleys, Records and other brands.

Some blades are as much as 25 percent thicker than the original blades and use modern steels, including both A2 and 01 steel. Replacement chipbreakers are also available. Thicker blades reduce the likelihood of chatter and offer greater stability, but they may se adjustments to the frog or even the size sst the stanley hand plane set up opening to accommodate the greater thickness.

Available blades vary in thickness, so take this into account when aet. A thickness of. Replacement chipbreakers in particular may be thicker than the original parts and may not fit older planes. Check with the manufacturer before ordering. Highland Woodworking carries Stanley replacement hanc and chipbreakers. Set the Mouth Opening. While the lion's share of attention goes to getting a keen edge on the blade, several other steps will help you get the best from your plane.

One is adjusting the mouth opening. On a bevel down plane, this is achieved by moving the frog forward or backward until the plaje is slightly wider than the thickness of gand desired shaving. For smoothing planes, very fine shavings are the goal so you will want to set a very narrow gap.

The opening can be wider for jointers and wider still for jack planes set yand to take thick shavings when roughing out a board. Set the frog with the blade in place and slightly projected. On planes based on the Stanley Bedrock model, which includes Lie-Nielsen planesadjust the opening by loosening the two screws on either side of the upp adjustment wheel.

Then advance or retract the frog as necessary by turning the large screw located between the two locking screws. Once the frog is adjusted, loosely tighten the locking screws, remove the blade and sight down the frog to the mouth to confirm that the frog is perfectly square to the mouth.

Then tighten the locking screws alternately and gradually until tight. Don't over tighten them to avoid stripping the threads. The more common Bailey-style planes have a slightly different screw arrangement—two locking screws located under the blade-chipbreaker assembly and an adjusting screw at the rear of the frog. This means you may have to insert and remove the blade and chipbreaker stanley hand plane set up several times until you get the mouth set the way you want it.

Otherwise, the stanley hand plane set up process is the same as for Bedrock-style planes. Some newer planes—including block planes and other bevel-up planes—are built with adjustable mouths.

Usually the mouth is loosened by turning a lever at the base of the toe, then sliding the mouth ztanley forward or backward to obtain the desired opening. Adjust the Chipbreaker. The chipbreaker on a bevel down plane should also be set so the sttanley from the blade edge is slightly more than the width of the shavings you intend to make. The distance will vary for individual planes set up to achieve different results. Bevel up planes, of course, have no pane and need no such adjustment.

Adjust the Cap Iron Pressure. The cap iron should hold the blade and chip breaker firmly to eliminate chatter but not so tightly that the depth adjuster can't be easily stan,ey with two fingers. With the lever loosened, tighten the screw until it holds the blade and chip breaker snugly in place, then snap stsnley lever down and test the ease of adjustment. Once you've achieved the right amount of pressure, leave the screw alone and remove the iron by raising the lever.

Set the Depth Adjuster. Now we come to the business end of the adjustments, where the metal meets the wood. On most planes, you turn the depth adjustment wheel clockwise to deepen the cut and counterclockwise to retract it. However, planee are exceptions. I recently came upon an old Crusader where the depth adjuster was turned in the plnae direction, so check your plane to see which rule applies.

Unfortunately, because of the unavoidable condition of backlash—excess play in the wheel adjustment—setting the blade depth so it does not slip in place requires a little more technique. The rule is to finish all depth adjustments with a downward, usually clockwise, movement of the wheel. Failing to keep downward pressure leaves the blade in a loose condition that lets it slip, and you can quickly lose the adjustment you staley carefully set.

Thus, if stanley hand plane set up blade is set too deep, back it off by turning the wheel counterclockwise until the blade is fully retracted. Then make ste downward ordinarily clockwise stanley hand plane set up, testing after stanley hand plane set up movement, until you get the right depth. If you find you need a more shallow set, repeat stanley hand plane set up entire process by backing the blade out and then stanley hand plane set up the cut by small degrees.

Lateral Adjustments. The rule of thumb stanley hand plane set up is to slide the lateral adjustment lever toward the side of the blade that is cutting too deeply. You can test the balance of the blade depth by sighting down the sole and looking for the black line that shows the presence of the blade.

Or you can look directly into the mouth from the bottom of the plane to judge whether the blade is the same distance from the mouth edge on both sides.

A third method is to take a thin wood chip pkane stroke it gently on each side of the blade, paying attention to the size of each shaving produced as well as the sound as the chip passes over the cutting edge. The acid test, p,ane, is to make a cut on a scrap board to see if you get shavings stanley hand plane set up equal thickness from each side of the blade. On a flat board, you would expect to get a full-width shaving of uniform thickness.

If the shaving is light on one side or missing altogether, move the lever slightly to the side that is cutting heaviest and retest. A series of small, successive adjustments will usually produce better results than making wider swings in the hope of hitting the correct setting in stanley hand plane set up movement. Often, stanley hand plane Set Up Stanley Hand Plane set up the adjustment lever affects the overall depth of cut, so be prepared for follow-up depth adjustments.

Cambered blades, because the blade corners are curved, are easier to put into balance. This is one stanley hand plane set up why they are recommended for ahnd users, especially those new to using hand planes see below. Plane blades can be cambered or kept straight, according to the user's preference and skill level. The temptation—especially for new plaane to leave the blade edge just as it comes out of the box: straight. But it is precisely new users who can benefit the most from a cambered blade.

Jun 09,  · If you do decide to lap your plane’s sole flat, you’ll need a dead flat substrate. The cast iron bed of a table saw or jointer works well, or if you don’t have one of those available and want to keep it on the cheap, a piece of 12” x 12” or larger granite surface plate or a marble tile from your home center will work for block planes, and typically costs less than $ Jul 20,  · Push the plane forward moving from one side to the other to see if any shaving comes up. There should be none. If there is, tweak the lateral adjuster toward the side where a shaving came up. This should even out the alignment of the plane iron cutting edge parallel to the sole, but will not set the depth of cut as we want it yet. Mar 25,  · Please be aware: some antique Stanley planes that you buy will be harlequins, or conglomerates of parts from different years, so keep that in mind when listing a Stanley hand plane for sale. Also, stanley type studies like this are most accurate for No. 4 Stanley Bailey Smoothing Planes. This tool does not work for the Stanley Bedrock planes or 4/5(4).

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