I am making a tea mug out of olive and sealed a couple of zalad with a mixture of sawdust and CA glue. I too have heard that finishes once dry can be food safe. About every other month or so I fill the salad bowl finish spray jar to about the halfway point. There was a problem filtering reviews right now. So what kind of finish will I use? Also… there is one crack in the table top that I saalad like to fill.

Sometimes I use shellac first, but usually on trouble wood with punky end grain. You might consider my Courses found in the top menu. Happy Turning, Kent.

Thanks so much for such great information! It will be used for tea and what not. Thanks again Luke. It might work, but it will depend on the type and grain of the wood being used. Hi Kent, great information! I bought a lovely wood tray. It has been stained and sealed using a lacquer sealant. When I have wiped it with a sponge, water penetrates the wood, which is not good. I asked the maker of the tray and she recommended sealing it with poly.

Would Tried and True be water resistant enough to be a wipeable surface or do I need to use something else? If so, can you recommend a specific product? I would recommend not to use the poly.

Instead, I would recommend sanding off the lacquer and applying the Tried and True Original. New follower, great videos and unlimited information. Thanks Frank. If not it can be recoated. Over time the finish can dull, but it is easily rejuvenated with a quick coat. I am making a charcuterie board for my daughter out of African Mahogany a limb from one of their trees. It has cured a few years now. I love the various coloring and shimmering look. It has a glow BUT it will have food on it.

I considered lacquer but think oil is a better choice because the board will probably have cheese on it with little knives to cut. So, 1. Do I need to resend down to and 2. If I use this oil will it take away the variant colors in the wood and 3. Will it darken the wood? I had used on a sample piece of the same wood Howard Butcher Block Conditioner oil which is food grade mineral oil stabilized with Vitamin E, beeswax and carnauba wax but it darkened the wood and took away the beauty.

I appreciate your thoughts. First off, any finish is going to change the appearance of the wood. Raw sanded and prepared wood is usually dull and dry in appearance and finish revives the color and life of the wood. This is the best you can apply to the surface. You can also use the Tried and True Original which is linseed oil and beeswax, again with zero additional elements. Hello, Fantastic article and great questions by the readers.

I learned a lot. My question has to do with wooden cooking utensils, cutting boards, etc. Im researching new wooden utensils for cooking. Part II of my question. Im trying to determine which type of wood is best to buy for health safety and durability.

There is a lot of controversy and information out there. Based on what Ive read, Im thinking about Teak, Beachwood or Bamboo; although open to any suggestions. I am leaning toward a set of Beachwood utensils made in France that are quite reasonably priced. Teak tends to be overpriced and I personally find it hard to determine if a bamboo product is safely processed given how many brands are out there.

And lastly, then I will shut up and listen… lol I read an article that is really bothering me. Is this correct? Is this guy bonkers? I know that wooden kitchenware needs to be treated regularly with oil, not soaked in water or dishwasher, … but carry bacteria?

Would I retreat occasionally? The Tried and True Original can be applied once and will last a long time. Tried and True Danish can be applied with multiple layers like the mineral oil to saturate the wood.

Interesting take on wood. I have actually heard the opposite. Wood has anti-bacterial properties and is safe for food, safer than some other materials. Film finishes, like lacquer, can be bad for bacteria if they chip and food or debris gets in and under the cracked area, they can develop bacteria.

But oiled boards are fine. For the final buffing stage with Tried and True, do you think Scotchbrite non woven pad could be used in place of steel wool? The pad is rated at The finish should rise from a dull to semi-luster when the surface is burnished. Perhaps, try both and see if the Scotchbrite is similar. My guess is, the results will be similar. Do you happen to know of another finish that I might investigate and use? I hope this is the product I need.

I have a huge vintage Dansk teak salad bowl. It looks beautiful but the salad dressing leaks out. The seams are not obviously separated, but the leak is substantial. Would this product seal the seams? Thank you so much for sharing your expertise. If there is a visible gap or crack, that would need to be repaired. However, you could also be referring to leaking through end-grain. If the wood is porous enough, you could have leaking through the end grain fibers. Yes, Tried and True Original with linseed oil and beeswax will begin to fill some of that porous area.

I am hoping that the Tried and True will be a nice finish. They do not have a dishwasher, so my only concern is that they do their dishes once a day in the evening, the rest of the time the dirty dishes are left in a water tub to soak. Sounds pretty cool, CNC printed cups and bowls.

Wood is a celluous structure that absorbs and sheds moisture all the time and soaking will ruin the wood over time. The Tried and True Original, which has beeswax, will repel some water, but it is not waterproof.

Thanks so much for the article. I am working on refinishing an outdoor wood table that would need to be food-safe. Would this be a good product to seal it with following wood stain? Any guidance is greatly appreciated. Thank you! Yes, you can apply Tried and True over a wood stain. Thanks for a great article. I have 2 questions. Someone even said that it is the consistency of honey. Does it flow on evenly and easily or is it thick and sticky? I need something that I can get into nooks, crannies, and crevices and then be able to wipe off the excess.

Also, I made up my own beeswax and stand oil heated linseed oil wood finish, as recommended by Chris Schwarz…1 part beeswax to 4 parts stand oil. It gives a nice finish on flat pieces of wood, but is too hard and stiff for my Wood Whisperer Salad Bowl Finish Code needs detail work.

Have you ever worked with or made this type of finish and if so how could I thin it down and soften it to make it more suitable to my needs without introducing turpentine or another solvent? Again, thanks for a great article and any advice you could give would be greatly appreciated. Jim Hipp. See this video of mine Beeswax Salad Bowl Finish Recipe Gif to view the application. If you are seeing the product on the wood, you have applied enough.

Then you wipe any thick areas off after an hour. And after hours come back and buff it out with a clean cloth. I use this product on delicate thin turned pieces and it works great. Thanks Kent…. From the video, it looks like this finish is probably a good consistency for my carvings. Thanks again….. I use them interchangeably and they blend perfectly.

The finish will add a bit of warm color to the wood. My son in law is making a small table for my grandchildren to eat on when they are at my house.

I need something to put on the wood to keep it looking nice in the face of, well, grandchildren eating and playing on it! Will this product work or is there something different I should use?

I have been researching but frankly I am starting to get confused. I am also a novice at doing this kind of project. Thanks in advance for your help. Yes, this product will work great. Also, if the grandchildren damage the wood somehow, simply sand out the damaged area and reapply this finish. It will blend in and match without any effort. Hopefully, the grandkids will be kind.

Can I spray lacquer over tried and true? This does not have to be food safe for the use intended. Thank you. Tried and True is an oil-based product that soaks into the wood. Because of this, the surface will not shine or appear glossy. In order to appear glossy, micropores and crevasses needed to filled and made smooth so the surface reflects light.

The best way to get a glossy finish is to apply several thin layers of lacquer. You can apply lacquer over Tried and True Danish linseed only Oil without any problems.

I have sprayed it over Tried and True original and have had good results for the most part. However, the beeswax can potentially repeal the lacquer.

Here are a few comments that might help. You read that right. It is no joke. Some people keep a jar of water nearby and put the finish-soaked rags in the water. Customers who viewed this item also viewed. Page 1 of 1 Start over Page 1 of 1. Previous page. Next page. Register a free business account.

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Verified Purchase. This is a capable finish, but became unusable after just a few months. I minimized exposure to oxygen and stored it appropriately but, the second time I went to use it, it had an almost moldy appearance One person found this helpful. Used it on a cutting board that was getting a little buggered up.

Sanded it down and refinished with this product. Only problem being the amount left over. By the time I use it again, it will probably be too old to use.

A beautiful dark walnut salad bowl was a wedding gift 60 years ago. Several years ago some salad was left in it and the finish bubbled.

I no longer used it. Recently I asked a woodworking group to sand it down and I would refinish it so I could again use it. It was returned to me partially sanded and told that was how they thought best. I am thinking I should sand the rest of the finish off down to the bare wood and then start over as a raw wood bowl and apply a finish.

I am thinking of using a drill with fine sandpaper and wearing masks and goggles. Do you have any guidance? I have not found anyone to do it for me. The Tried and True Original sounds ideal.

I want to pass this bowl on with instructions for maintenance. It was from my Godmother and I would like to pass it to my Goddaughter. She remembers making our favorite salad with me using that bowl.

Can you help? It sounds like you are on the right path. I would definitely sand the entire bowl to bare wood and then apply the Tried and True Original Finish. Be sure to follow the instructions. You can do this by hand or with power tools, either way, will work well. Regarding milk paint, is this refering to their finishing oils? If so, which one? Pure tung oil, or their half-and-half seem to be reasonable options for a finishing oil that is in contact with food.

Comments appreciated! I have used the Tried and True products over milk paint with great results. The Tried and True Original has beeswax and linseed oil and makes a water-resistant coating. The Danish Oil made of just linseed also does great. The last qt. I bought has a green tint instead of the old amber tint. It takes days for it to dry enough to recoat. As a result I am looking for a new finish. One point to consider though.

As I was recently demonstrating how to properly apply it in my club, I was informed by Salad Bowl Finish Bunnings Co Ltd a nurse that there are people who have allergic reactions to flaxseed oil? After extensive research I found this to be true. Something to consider. This is so strange, I was just reading Beads of Courage finish recommendations and they mentioned not to use linseed oil because of its off-gas.

On the other hand, I can imagine there are people who have reactions to pure linseed oil. Your comments regarding California Prop 65 do not match my experience. Once that started, many businesses were targeted for shakedowns, including small and large hardware and woodworking supply businesses. It was cheaper and easier than defending a costly shakedown lawsuit.

They were instructed that it was critically important not to miss anything, because the attorneys had hired people to do surreptitious audits, searching for accidentally unlabeled items on the shelves. The larger sellers went back to the manufacturers and had them add Prop 65 warnings to their packaging.

The problem is not limited to California. I have seen many of the small businesses in my community shaken down by outside attorneys based on the Americans with Disabilities Act ADA. The attorney already has its hooks into the business for thousands of dollars to settle. If the extorted business attempts to protest, fight, or stall, the settlement costs skyrocket, so the businesses either settle immediately or close, hurting our community, including the disabled. The Prop 65 extortions follow the same model.

The law as originally intended and applied was working fine, until attorneys found loopholes to exploit it in ways that were never intended. A few bad apples ruined it for the rest of us. I am seeing a lot of cutting boards, serving trays, and bowls sealed or decorated with resin. Resin has the same problem with chipping but is it toxic?

I am extremely allergic to resin and wonder what you think? I use this product over Milk Paint, which is also a non-toxic somewhat chalky paint and it works great! After a considerable amount of research I have begun using a homemade finish mage entirely of flaxseed oil and food grade beeswax. I still use mineral oil and beeswax for display pieces but prefer the flaxseed formula for any pieces associated with food service.

For those that think this is unreasonable they are free to use whatever strikes their fancy. This is still a free country as of this writing. Love the web site, please keep adding to it. I know about both. Just about everything in the article is either false or misleading. Sorry, but this article is Mohawk Salad Bowl Finish 08 a crock of edited expletive. In one study, rats that ingested the equivalent of 7. Dosage matters, as people who have died from drinking too much water it happens will tell you.

And BTW, since coconut oil is a laxative, drinking large doses of it will undoubtedly have many or all of the same side effects you listed for mineral oil. Unscientific thinking coupled with health-related paranoia is exactly the sort of mindset that leads people to the deadly stupidity of anti-vaxxers.

Please stop trusting that hair on the back of your neck and do some actual research using reliable sources. Science is people studying particular topics and sharing their information.

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