*FREE Plans and Full Video Tutorial!** Make this simple and effective table saw sled today!  When the stop marks lined up with the router fence (which I’d set to the width of the router bit) then I knew to stop. To cut the back side I made a plunge cut, came back to the line then plowed out the rest. After that I moved the router fence back to get my full width groove and repeated the process. A router table is a great tool for producing tight, crisp joints. But routing across the grain of a workpiece can be a problem. This sled makes it easy. Right behind the workpiece, you’ll find an MDF backing strip that supports the workpiece to eliminate tearout. And the hold-down locks even narrow workpieces firmly in place to keep them square as they move through the bit. Select your plan package. Unit. Imperial $ Learn more. Router Table - Sled - Free download as PDF File .pdf), Text File .txt) or read online for free. Router.  But routing Another thing I really like about (7) #8 x 11/2" Fh Woodscrews across the grain of a workpiece can this sled is the holddown. Its an (7) #10 x 3/4" Fh Woodscrews be a problem. The biggest challenges amazingly simple clamp that locks (1) 18" Miter Bar are preventing tearout and keeping a the workpiece firmly in place. This (1) 2" x 2" - /8" Alum. Angle (1/8" thick) narrow workpiece square to the bit. sled is a great addition to any shop. 1 www.- SN August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved. Aluminum angle hardboard. It requires more strength to keep it straight. Blackbone 6 months ago. WoodyWoods 10 months ago. Reply 10 months ago. Pin

I can always cut larger strips to make the sled higher if needed for very cheap. Next, I measured the width of the base of my router plate - this will change based on what router you have. Mine was a little over 5.

Lastly, I ripped two more strips, 3 inches wide to serve as the walls of my sled. To begin the assembly, I clamped a single base wall to the edge of my large base piece, making sure everything was as flush and straight as can be Pic 1 , pre drilled holes for the screws Pic 2 , then screwed in and attached the sled base wall Pic 3.

Picture 4 shows the final result. I then repeated for my other wall and was finished with the base. The goal of the sled is to hang over the railings of your base by the same width as your material. My sled is 24" wide, so I measured out, using scrap pieces of MDF, the exact width of the bottom of my sled.

I then made the cuts Pic 2 on my Miter Saw. I then measured our the sled sides to be the exact same with as the sled bottom Pic 3 and cut to length Pic 4. Then, using left over pieces from cutting my sled bottom from Pic 2 , I cut two pieces at 2" wide to serve as the guides for the sled against the walls Pic 5.

Picture 7 shows all of the final cuts sled bottom, sled sides x 2, sled guides x 2. Clamp our Sled Wall pieces to the outside of your sled bottom piece Pic 1. Double check that your router will fit comfortably but still tightly in between. Pre-drill holes Pic 2 and screw in Pic 3 your wood screws like you did with the sled base to assemble the sled. Repeat this process for the second wall on the other side. Finally, clamp on your guides underneath the ends of the sled base Pic 4 , pre-drill holes again Pic 5 , and screw in screws Pic 6 to attach the guide.

Repeat this process for second guide on the other side. Double check your sled fits and slides tightly but freely on your sled base. If you are careful with measurements and make clean cuts, this shouldn't be an issue at all! Once you have made multiple passes and cut all of the way through, you should end up with a groove Pic 3 that you can now pass your dado bit through and surface any piece of wood, etc.

NOTE - You have the freedom to route this hole as wide as you'd like, but be careful not to do it too wide as you'll hit your sled base walls. Also, because your router will have a bit of wiggle room, you'll want to make passes with your router base plate up against both walls so the hole is clean, consistent, and slightly larger than your actual dado bit width.

I recommend taking it from the same sled base piece that you've already cut the base and 2" guide pieces from you should have plenty of extra to do this - and then just screw them in or use brad nails. Below is the full video of me using it for the first time on a set of Walnut Butcher Block Bedside Tables I was making. I am so thrilled with how well it works, and it will work for ANY type of wood material you put underneath, all you need to do is make sure the piece is secured and shimmed properly so that you begin with as flat and stable of a surface as you can I held it with weights, but you can look into your own solutions that work for you!

The best part is, between the tools you need for the sled, and the materials, it will still be about half or less the price of a standard thickness planer, which many people can't afford and will be limited by anyways. If you want to know any materials, tools, or have any general questions answered, you can check out the second step or contact me via my website, thecuttingbored. As always, thank you for reading!

I would be so grateful if you could please subscribe to my Youtube Channel for future projects. Question 6 weeks ago on Introduction. Thanks for posting. I am going to make it this weekend. Would a handheld planer work for this jig or just a router? I have both but wanted to use the planer. Perhaps I could build it to accommodate both. Thanks, Jason jasrupp yahoo.

This is definitely one of the easiest builds i ve completed but with one of the biggest. Next cut out the sled sides. Start with Router Table Sled Plans Queue your wood slabs.

Diy router sled tutorial. Most of the wood that i level out with a router sled i plane down to around 1 to 1 inches thick so using sections of 2 4 s as the bases for the sled works fine but if i m leveling a larger slab of wood that i want to be thicker i simply attach the rails to thicker bases such as 3 4 or 4 4 Router Table Sled Plans Plugin blocks of wood. To cut the bottom of the sled use your router s base to set the width of the cut.

Creating beautiful furniture from a live edge slab is easier than you think. The router sled needs to be wide enough to slide on the rails without falling off so pick a scrap of wood that is wider than you need and trim it to size after you ve made the sled.

Plywood is a great choice for a sled as the cross lamination of the wood grain mean that it s dimensionally stable and there s usually plenty of scrap plywood around. These wood slabs are on the smallish side. When making your passes over the material the last thing you want to have is flex in the middle to. You really want the sides of the box to be on top of the malemine base! Another tip shown in the video is to clamp down the side really tight when you screw it together, but first make sure the router still easily slides.

The pronged lock nuts go on the inside of the jig; you then screw in some bolts from the inside and this gives you a solid thread to use a nut or wing nut on and snug up the square sides:. Having a square router base is essential. It holds the router more securely in the jig. If you just use the standard round base the router might want to catch and spin around. It requires more strength to keep it straight. With the square base, you can simply push the router around with one hand and not worry about it too much.

You can simply level the side rails and slide the box around on them. Use a plunge base on the router! You can easily control the depth of each pass by moving the depth guide up for the amount you want to take off and then dropping the router bit down until it hits the guide.

This next picture shows one of my techniques for holding down material.

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