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04.12.2020The reason I stopped was clean up and toxicity. Pre-cat lacquer is highly toxic, and especially nasty. It also requires lacquer thinner to clean up, which is equally as nasty.
You don't want to be dumping your used solvent down the drain. It needs proper disposal, just like motor oil. It does go on really nicely, and leaves a beautiful finish. To me, the water based poly goes on almost as nicely, and is worth the trade off in cost for ease of clean up. I have one that I bought last year, I errantly thought I could spray some thinned out paint through it. After I finished that project with brushes and rollers, I set the sprayer aside and haven't touched it since.
If it has the forum's seal of approval maybe I should give it another shot, too. Following this. None of the inexpensive HVLP units were designed to push thick finishes..
Send some quality WB finishes thru them and they tend to do well! Yeah, I knew better, but some of the reviews said "they" got it to work with paint. Before baby girl gets mobile I need to build some new coffee and end tables to replace our current glass tables, that'll be a good opportunity to try some new finishing techniques. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
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Reply to this topic Start new topic. Recommended Posts. Rex Edgar Posted May 4, Posted May 4, Link to post Share on other sites. Kev Posted May 4, Obviously you need to learn it and be comfortable with it.
I've never used the Rockler system, I started out on the Earlex and now use a Fuji unit. Posted May 5, Kev Posted May 5, Join the conversation You can post now and register later. Reply to this topic But they operate at high pressure and create a hazardous fog of overspray. As much as 80 percent of the finish that leaves a conventional spray gun bounces back off your workpiece, and winds up on every exposed surface, including the shop floor, walls, shelves, and tools.
HVLP sprayers, on the other hand, use a large volume of air at low pressure to break up, or atomize, the stream of finish leaving the nozzle into a fine mist.
This method greatly reduces finish bounce-back, saving you both money and time cleaning up. HVLP sprayers come in two forms: Conversion guns and turbine-powered sprayers.
Like conventional spray guns, conversion guns atomize finish with air supplied by a compressor, and that air must be filtered of both water and oil to avoid contaminating the finish. Conversion guns require CFM cubic feet per minute of air to work well. To put that demand into perspective, a gallon compressor typically can power a lower CFM gun adequately, but it takes an plus-gallon model to supply enough air for the hungriest guns.
That makes conversion guns better suited for large-scale spraying operations. Turbine systems, on the other hand, provide a complete, self-contained, portable package that includes the gun, air supply the turbine unit , and hose.
The air from the turbine is dry and clean so it doesn't require water or oil filters. For those reasons, and because they nicely simplify the spray- finishing operation, we prefer the turbine systems to conversion guns. These three parts of the system work in concert to produce a smooth, level film on your project. Naturally, the gun and turbine impact performance the most.
A powerful turbine can't compensate for a poorly performing gun, nor can the best gun effectively atomize finish with an anemic turbine, but a restrictive or easily crushed hose can render the whole system ineffective.
Let's examine each key component, one at a time. Skip to main content. What if you could cut your finishing time by more than half, and get a super-smooth finish, to boot?
You can! Stow that brush and enter the spray age with a low-overspray system.
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