The radial arm saw has become less popular throughout the years, yet it remains as one of the most versatile tools. In fact, if you’re short on space, this one tool can help replace the need for many others. Much like the miter saw, it consists of a circular blade mounted unto a sliding arm which can power through the wood stock to make a variety of cuts.  The saw’s in-built safety measures generally work well; however, it is important to note that you should not cut any timber with loose knots or foreign objects in it. These may detach and become a hazard.  Each component from the blade to its workstation should be maintained according Radial Arm Saw Workstation Plans Install to its requirements. Wear protective equipment – No matter how easy or quick a cut seems, always put on gloves, headgear, and protective glasses. I've seen pictures of the radial-arm saw in the WOOD magazine shop that appears to be placed on a stand between two cabinets. Do you have plans for this stand? - -Brad Kronsbein, Stockbridge, Ga. Brad, we haven't drawn up detailed plans for this saw support. However, it's a fairly simple item to build. It consists of a shelf, slightly larger than the base of the radial-arm saw, placed between two commercially-made cabinets. The top of the saw table support rests flush with the Radial Arm Saw Workstation Plans Uk top of the cabinets. This creates a continuous shelf for supporting long workpieces. The drawing below. I designed the work station to take the place of the metal base that my saw came on. If I were to leave the saw on the metal stand it takes up a lot of room due to its large footprint area. This work station is designed to meet my needs and makes use of the space that the metal factory stand would take up but with a ton of storage built in. On the back side of the workstation there are holes drilled to accomadate pipe clamps that can be slid in from either end.  The recess under the saw I intend to use along with another rolling cart that can house my planer. The workstation is mobile by utilizing swivel locking casters. The casters in my model were casters I found shared in the 3D warehouse. The saw is also a model that I imported into my design. I edited it some to meet my needs for this model. If you have an account, wroker in now to post with your account. Go to topic listing. We'll see. I recently replaced my old King 10" mitre saw with a new Bosch 12" Glide Dual compound saw. I really love this thing for dado's Its so fricken easy to hog something out by eye.

However, after watching many videos on Youtube of the capabilities Had this radial arm saw about 10 years, after I got it used from my friend who ran out of room for it.

Finally got around to I liked the Home Depot cabinets so much I decided to use them for an 8 foot long stand for my radial arm saw.

I Radial Arm Saw Jig Plans Me used one 24" cabinet sandwitched b Of all the machines to cut my teeth on restoring…. Sawdust table and all the attachments you can imagin Stand for dad's old radial arm saw. I grew up using this saw but since I haven't used it in such I long time, I've kind of forgot the benefits of it.

I also have went a different route with my table saw, im building my dewalt inside a table with a good delta t square fence. So having something with an arbor large enough to except the full stack is nice. At one time I used it to cut drawer and door panels that would fit for cabinetry, but really like it for dentil molding I suppose not too Radial Arm Saw Workstation Plans Key many people on this forum are still Radial arm users?

Nothing wrong with it if it works for you. I've never used one, but my grandfather made 14 beautiful grandfather clocks one for each of his kids I kept thinking about the dado stack but I would rather have the room back in my shop. I don't have one and don't see one as a priority purchase. If my dad gets rid of his I may toy with it. We'll see. Yes, as stated above I had one for a long time but moved it next door to my son in laws to make room for a drum sander that I use ALL the time.

Mine exploded three pine 1x4 fences by grabbing boards and throwing them thru the fence so that was enough to tell me I have no business using it. I fully understand it was user error but clearly I wasn't learning my lesson and stopped while I still had all my fingers toes and eyes. I remember one being a crosscut dado I was doing with a normal blade where I was holding it to the fence and moving the piece to set up the next pass and the blade hit the board while the board was in motion and shot it through the screen in my window.

Glad it was a nice day so I didn't have to replace the glass. Only my shorts. The other two were probably equally stupid uses but it was clear that something wasn't connecting between how I needed to work and how I actually work. I still use the 12" Craftsman radial arm saw that was probably the first tool I bought when I started into business for myself in It still sits on the 6' long frame that I built for it the day I unpacked it.

That stand has had the top replaced some unknown number of times, but it still rolls on the same casters. It's been set up for precision right angle cuts since the early '90s.

Just a couple of weeks ago the Woodworker I that's been on it the majority of the time since the mid '80s went back to Forrest to be sharpened, and they called me to tell me that it didn't have any more life in it.

You can tell by just wearing out one blade that it doesn't get used that much. I told them to send me another one just like it with the other blades coming back this way. The rollers on the motor head have eccentric centers, so you can play around with it and get all of the play out of it, as well as aligned perfectly.

I haven't needed to touch mine in the 25 years or so since I spent a few hours fiddling with it, but I never do rough cutting with it, or let the blade lock up in anything. I'm pretty sure one lockup would throw it out of whack.

I mostly use it for tenon shoulders, and just recently for finishing tenons a bit too long to cut with the tenoning jig on the tablesaw-picture below before going to the RAS with a dado stack to finish. I almost never do crosscuts on a tablesaw.

Just by luck, the deck on top of the RAS stand is the exact same height at the deck on the sliding miter saw. Mine gets moved around every year or two, so I don't bother to even try to get the fences aligned perfectly.

The six foot fence on the radial saw is plenty long for anything, and the one on the miter saw is good enough for what I do with that. I have them set at a very slight angle to each other so that a long board can share each top, but bypasses the fence on either saw.

Both tops are screwed together underneath so a stop on one used for the other saw still stays an exact fixed distance. I've done several million dollars worth of work while using this setup, and don't have any need for anything "better". I mainly used it for milling stock closer to finished length, and never used it for anything that would be finish dimensions.

I just never wanted to try and keep it setup true. But use what fits your workflow, be careful with the RAS, they are finicky. This is my go to RAS, Dewalt circa I am working on a restoration, I like to have 1 setup for cross cuts and the other dedicated to dado's.

Totally safe when done right on this machine which is finely tuned. However, the dust collection ripping is not so great so I mostly use the Unisaw for that. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

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