I've seen some of these early models with a metallic disk under the knob in an attempt to overcome the chipping that the knobs suffer; this disk appears original and is similar olane the one used on the We're about to enter a new century never mind a millenium, too! Customer Care Talk to parts of a stanley hand plane yield friendly customer care representative to help with your purchase. Considering rake angles, you can vary partz cutting angle on a bevel down iron by stoning in a tiny back bevel on the back face of the iron. The wooden parts are custom made for this plane, so trying parts of a stanley hand plane yield salvage a tote or a knob from a standard jack plane is pointless; original totes and knobs have a concave bottom so that they can fit over their respective convex portions of the main casting. But it appears you've got the scraping down just fine, your block plane looks great! Disassemble the plane, and clean all the parts with mineral spirits, scrubbing them if necessary with a brass brush or steel wool.

Most pre-war planes, like this No. Now make a few test shavings. If it produces silky shavings of consistent thickness, you can consider yourself lucky that your job is done. In most cases, the repair work is just beginning. As shown at right above, rehab work falls into three levels. The approach you choose depends not just on the cost and condition of the tool, but also on how you plan to put it to work.

For example, jack, fore, and jointers—planes used primarily for rough work—rarely require more than a mid-level tune-up. Smoothing planes deserve more attention in order to produce the wispy shavings necessary for refined work. Site on the screw hole to set the grinding angle. To work like it should, the edge of the breaker must contact the blade perfectly, or else shavings can jam in the gap and choke your plane.

Most secondhand planes suffer from this ailment. To establish a consistent angle, move the chipbreaker as shown in Photo A, keeping the screw hole aligned with the edge of your honing platform. For a plane to work properly, the sole must be flat and smooth. Its flatness ensures that it will create flat surfaces. Smoothness contributes to an easy gliding operation and prevents any deep scratches from marring a workpiece.

Because cast iron is slightly flexible, you want to inspect and lap the body under normal working tension. Install the blade, chip breaker and lever cap, but retract the blade into the body. Next, use a permanent marker to draw reference lines across the sole. Rub the plane back and forth across a strip of grit paper a few times then check your progress.

This is your starting point. Put on your favorite CD, and start flattening. To keep the sanding consistent, I prefer running the plane over the sandpaper in one direction, then the other, as shown in Photos B and C, below. In a perfect world, the entire sole should be dead flat. The latter is particularly important, because its job is to hold down the wood fibers to prevent tear-out as the blade tries to lift them. Flattening will produce knife-sharp corners.

To protect your work and your fingers lightly ease the edges with a fine mill file. When the sole exhibits a consistent scratch pattern, move up to the next finest grit and continue the process through subsequently finer grits, finishing up at grit.

To work on the mouth, clamp the lower section of the body in a vise without squeezing against the tall sides. Using an accurate square and a scratch awl, gauge the amount to file away from the front edge of the mouth, as shown in Photo D.

Aim to remove as little material as possible to correct a chipped or out-of-square edge. Then use a bastard file to work to your line Photo E , filing the throat back a few degrees to improve chip clearance. Opening the mouth wider is necessary for many replacement blades.

As shown at right, older planes employed relatively thin. Nowadays, thick is in. Stanley replacement blades, available from several different manufacturers, will fit most planes with little to no adjustment. Is it worth it?

It depends. Many woodworkers find that a thinner blade will work fine provided that the rest of the plane is properly tuned. For smoothers, such as the No. In order to secure the blade to the body, the frog must be in solid contact with both parts. Some tune-up articles lead off with frog tune-up, but I recommend doing this step last for two reasons. First, too much tuning can ruin a good plane. To do this, affix a strip of grit sandpaper to a flat reference surface and rub the frog from side to side Photo F.

Next, clean the lower contact points. This can be done freehand, but I use a simple jig that provides a wider bearing surface for a sanding block Photo G. They fulfill the same criteria and pass the same tests as parts used in production. These criteria and tests ensure tolerances as well as critical performance characteristics match. Compatibility of the replacement parts to the power tool is assured.

Bosch parts continue to be available even after the end o production, so the tool can be kept operational for many years to come. Connect high performance and precise fit with unparalleled availability and delivery from Bosch parts warehouses. You can be sure that the right Bosch original spare part will put you back on the job as fast as possible.

To order Bosch Genuine Replacement parts online click here or call us at Order here. High Overall stability and lifetime due to precise automated armature winding and cleanly guide protective bands.

Visit the Frequently Asked Questions section. We may already have the answer for your questions. Welcome to Bosch Blue. Note the lack of tearout behind the cutting edge despite the downward sloping wood grain. Setting the cap iron by eye. With practice, it is quick and easy to set the cap iron close to the cutting edge.

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