He teaches hand planing in northern Virginia where he lives with his wife, four cats and a basement woodshop full of tools in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. This plqne result in a plane with exceptionally smooth actions for months to Jointer Plane Bevel Up Or Down Voltage come. Click the images below to visit some of our most popular tool departments. An Error has occured, please try again. Bevel Down vs.

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Option: Choose an option. Some people really like the four-finger grip, and I believe them and think that bevel-up planes are ideal for this sort of hand preference. I like the three-finger grip and use it on my drills, saws and planes. I think having the index finger extended is a cue to your brain and helps guide your work straighter.

You can use a three-finger grip with bevel-up planes I do but it feels weird having your finger suspended above the tool in space with nothing to support it. Difference 3: Chipbreakers. I say this all the time: I really dislike chipbreakers, cap irons or whatever you want to call them. I think they are the No. Chipbreakers are found on all Bailey-style planes, and this is one of their major demerits.

The bevel-up planes have no chipbreaker. And I marvel every time at how easy they are to set up and maintain because of that missing chunk of steel frustration. Difference 4: Throat Adjustment. If you want to adjust the throat on your Bailey-style plane, settle in. Even the best Bailey planes with a Bed Rock mechanism require some fussing and back and forth to get a tight throat opening. Older Bailey planes require you to disassemble the frog. In contrast, the throat on a bevel-up plane is a cakewalk to adjust.

You loosen a knob and slide a shoe plate as close or as far away from the cutting edge as you like. Nothing could be simpler or more intuitive. This is another big advantage for bevel-up planes if you make any throat adjustments in your work , and many people with just a plane or two do this. Other Differences. Once you have these basic planes, you can fill in other, more specialized planes as your needs require and your budget permits.

Bevel Down vs. Bevel Up Planes Traditionally, hand plane blades were mounted in their bodies with the bevel facing down, toward the wood. Recently, however, a number of planes have been introduced with the bevel facing up.

Aside from some advantages in how the effective blade angle can be changed by the angle at which the bevel is honed, the chief benefit of a bevel up plane comes in setting it up for cutting. A bevel up plane has fewer parts, no chipbreaker or lateral adjustment lever and is easier to set up. However, bevel down planes look more complicated than they really are and they can be easily learned.

Both types of planes work well. So, the choice is yours. To plane rough boards smooth, start with the jointer. Continue planing until the board is dead flat. Once you're there, switch to your smoothing plane and give it a few light passes to get everything nice and, well, smooth. When any ridges left by the jointer are gone, you're done. If you are taking your boards from a power planer, using a smoother is the only step you'll need to do. The direction you plane matters if you want to avoid tearout.

You want to plane with the grain, but on a rough board, how can you tell what that is? One method is to look at the edge of the board to see which way the grain lies. You want to plane in the direction the grain is rising. The usual analogy is to treat the board as you would the fur of cat--plane so the grain lies down. Another method is to look at the end grain and identify the heart side of the board. It's the side toward which the rings are bent.

The outer side of the rings is the bark side. Then plane from the bottom of the cathedral toward its top. When you flip the board to the bark side, reverse the board so you are planing into the peaks of the cathedral.

This will ensure that you are always planing in the right direction. They may be cupped from side to side, bowed from end-to-end or even twisted so adjacent corners are uneven. Check for these conditions before you begin to flatten your board. Place cupped boards with the concave side down. Then plane a valley down the middle of the convex side until it is even with the sides or a bit lower.

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