Specialty Clamps for Tricky Glue Ups

Home Articles Goof-Proof Clamping. This gluing clamps of is from Issue 39 of Woodcraft Magazine. Gluing clamps of bar clamps under the boards resting on the risers; keep additional bar clamps, cauls, and caul clamps at the ready. Now apply the glue. Flat panels include table and cabinet tops, solid door and case panels, and even simple cutting boards.

Begin by arranging your prepared stock for the best grain and color match. Now gluing clamps of can quickly position the boards in the correct order by reassembling the triangle. Place a pair gluing clamps of risers on the workbench, and position the panel boards on them, as shown in Photo A.

These provide the clearance needed to apply the clamps and cauls at the panel ends. To center clamping pressure on the panel thickness, place a dowel of the same thickness along each edge of the panel.

The dowels also act as clamp pads to eliminate panel-edge damage. To align the boards at the panel ends, make four straight-edged cauls at least as long as the panel width. Most gluing clamps of and carcase clamping employs these clamp types. Each has advantages and disadvantages from function to cost. Position bar clamps on the panel, capturing the dowels against the panel edges, and tighten the clamps until they are snug.

To determine the number of bar clamps necessary for a panel glue-up, see sidebar below. Next, stand all but the gluing clamps of board on edge and apply glue to each edge.

Spread the glue evenly and modestly with a flux brush or the threads of a carriage bolt. Once clamped, each panel joint should have a gluing clamps of, continuous line of glue squeeze-out. Now lay the panel boards flat on the risers and apply clamps, as shown in Photo B. Immediately clamp paired gluing clamps of to the ends of the panel. Apply gluing clamps of enough even clamp pressure along the lengths of the cauls in order to bring the taped surfaces into full contact with the gluing clamps of. Work back and gluing clamps of from bar clamps to caul clamps, tightening each in succession until all clamps are tight, the joints are closed, and the board surfaces are aligned.

Finally, remove the excess glue that squeezed out along the panel joints. Wipe up the glue on open-grained woods gluing clamps of as oak with a wet rag. Make sure to use enough water to dissolve the glue, and wipe thoroughly several times, rinsing the rag frequently between wipes. For tight-grained woods such as maple, wait for the glue to congeal but not harden, and remove it with a paint scraper, lifting the glue from the surface.

As shown, clamps must be positioned closer together along a narrow board than along a wide one. Gluing and clamping a cabinet carcase requires a flat work surface larger and closer to the floor than a typical workbench.

Here, in two steps, I show how to add a divider between a top and bottom, and then how to permanently add and square the unit with sides. Later, the back and face frame would be added. With the carcase parts cut to shape and all dadoes and rabbets formed, temporarily position one side on the assembly table, inside face up, to serve as a spacer.

Apply glue in the carcase bottom and top divider dadoes. Dry-fit the carcase bottom into the side bottom dado and the carcase top into the side top rabbet, and capture the divider in the top and bottom divider dadoes. Now position cauls on the carcase top and bottom, centered on the divider dadoes. As before, I covered the convex curved edges with plastic packaging tape. Clamp pressure at the caul ends flattens it against the assembly and exerts greater pressure at the center.

This is handy when the center of the glue-up is out of reach for even those clamps having the deepest throats. Making sure the edges of the divider, top, and bottom are flush at the front, apply bar gluing clamps of and tighten them enough to hold the cauls and carcase parts together. You may need to move the case corners over the edge of the table gluing clamps of order to turn the clamp handles. Loosen the brace clamps as needed to allow the divider to fully seat in the dadoes.

Then tighten the bar clamps. Now center cauls on the gluing clamps of rabbets and dadoes, position clamps at the caul ends, and tighten the clamps. Check the carcase for square, as shown in Photo D. If the carcase is not square, apply clamp pressure across the larger diagonal. A bar clamp at the Clamps For Edge Gluing open end draws together the inside of the curve.

Mitered assemblies present a special challenge. Here are some solutions for dealing with these tricky glue-ups. Gluing up a flat mitered frame can be easy as long gluing clamps of the frame has four sides. Now, apply glue to the miters and finish the glue-up, as shown in Photo F. Secure a miter caul to each box side with a spring clamp, apply glue to the miters, and assemble the box sides.

Apply clamps across the corners, as shown. Consider using two clamps per corner to close any gaps. As an alternate method for applying pressure across wide joints, consider wrapping the assembled box with surgical Corner Gluing Clamps tubing as shown in Photo H.

For boxes with shorter walls, you may get by with a strap clamp. A cheval mirror frame with a round top would be difficult to gluing clamps of if the segments were already rounded. Instead, over-size the frame pieces when cutting them and include clamping ears as shown in Photo I. These let you effectively pull the pieces together. You must be logged in to write a comment.

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Press Releases. Resin Casting. Shop Talk. Woodcraft Magazine. Woodworking Adventures. Download PDF. Only then can you produce assembly-ready parts. Provide a flat surface upon which to work, such as a gluing clamps of or torsion box. Gather everything you need, including the right type and number of clamps. Make a dry run-through of the clamping operation. Use white glue or Titebond Extend for complex glue-ups or when gluing several parts at once.

Do large glue-ups in sections. Finally, never force improperly-prepared stock into alignment with clamps. Instead, rework the stock to ensure that you have flat parts with true edges. Gluing clamps of flat panels Flat panels include table and cabinet tops, solid door and gluing clamps of panels, and even simple cutting boards.

Big Boy Clamps Most panel and carcase gluing clamps of employs these clamp types. To hold all the parts in place while positioning cauls and bar clamps, Gluing Clamps 70 clamp squaring braces to the top, bottom, and divider. Check the carcase for square by measuring both diagonals.

Adjust the carcase as needed until the measurements are equal. Carcase construction Gluing and clamping a cabinet carcase requires a flat work surface larger and closer to the floor than a typical workbench. Use strapping tape to join the frame segments point to point, making sure they meet without gaps or overlaps. Roll up the joined segments, pulling them tightly together and securing the last joint with more tape. The angled surfaces of the miter cauls align clamping pressure perpendicular to the glue gluing clamps of, making it easy to pull the miters together without slippage.

Secure one end of the surgical tubing to a box side with a spring clamp; then wrap the tubing around the box, stretching it as you wrap. Mitered frames and boxes Mitered assemblies present a special challenge.

Sep 16,  · This clamp is made out of cast iron, which makes it durable and holds the wood tightly. It is specifically designed to clamp wooden pieces with a thickness of ¾ inch. Professional woodworkers use this for projects, including cabinetry and wooden crates. It comes in a set with 6 pieces of ¾” wood gluing pipe clamp in a red cast with a heavy screw. Dec 03,  · Pros of PVA Glue. PVA glue has a short clamp time (less than an hour for hardwoods, and under 4 hours for softwoods), which is appealing to woodworkers who are in a hurry, or who don’t have a lot of clamps. PVA glue works great for loose joints, because the moisture in the glue causes the wood to swell and the joints to tighten before it cures. Aug 01,  · Also sometimes called a gluing clamp, these clamps are very similar to a sash clamp but instead of the longer piece of metal being a flat bar, it is a round shaft. The length of the clamp is determined by how long the length of the pipe is and you can easily lengthen them by adding more tube to the clamp.

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