Woodworking DVDS: Seasoned innovative woodworker Jeremy Broun puts the world's best glue to the test, comparing Titebond 3, with Titebond No Run No Drip with.  Woodworking tip # 2 - Save Money on Fine Woodworking Gifts Quiz Wood Fine Woodworking Sanders Instagram Glue Glu-Bot Glue Bottle (16 Ounces) - - Titebond Original Wood Glue - - Titebond II Premium Wood Glue - - Titebond-3 Ultimate Wood Glue - - Wood glue is a necessity for any wood worker but it.  Titebond is superior to Liquid Nails, especially for fine woodworking where the glue penetrates the wood fibres and longterm also. Reply this comment. RHammer9 24 June, , Probably 10 years ago Fine Woodworking did a test on glues and found for most applications Titebond Original is as good as it get. Epoxy surpassed Titebond in tight grained woods such as hard maple. Polyurethane glue was pretty much useless, as far as strength is concerned.  A forum community dedicated to professional woodworkers and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about shop safety, wood, carpentry, lumber, finishing, tools, machinery, woodworking related topics, styles, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more! Full Forum Listing. Explore Our Forums. 'Wood glue doesn't stick to wood glue'. Could this conventional wisdom be wrong? I've noticed something unexpected while testing PVA glues for strength. Glues tested: Titebond Original, Titebond III Ultimate. Wood species: Beech and Pine (and other unknown hardwood species). technique glue adhesives. asked May 10 '20 at Brybeck. bronze badges. 1. Topics Cabinetry. Try: Epoxy is the best choice for structural, gap-filling repairs. The evidence was more than enough to convince me that from now on, in exterior conditions, I woodworkjng be fine woodworking glue test quiz epoxy or even CA Glue instead of the PVA glues. Further testing needs to be completed, but that will probably be the next glue test. Conservators prefer hide glue because new glue reactivates old. With a minute open time twice as long as regular TitebondTitebond Extend is quzi in complex glue-ups.

Hide glue is made from skins and hooves. Open time, working time, and curing time all relate to how long it will take to glue up a project from application to maximum bonding. Depending on the project, speed can be an ally or enemy. Fast: Hot hide glue tacks in minutes, but with the aid of an accelerator, CAs bond instantly. If you can afford a few minutes, fast-curing epoxies cure in minutes, but offer considerable strength.

Slow: Titebond III and liquid hide glue offer more time for complex or multi-stage glue-ups. For even more time, try Titebond Extend see sidebar, right. Polyurethane allows a comfortable working time for complicated glue-ups, but keep the clamps on until final cure or the foam can cause joints to open.

Lowering the temperature will also buy more time. Woodworking in poorly heated spaces during winter months often leads to glue failure. Avoid: PVAs. Try: Epoxies. In chilly conditions, you can use a heat lamp or hair dryer to help the epoxy kick in. Type II testing involves three soaking cycles and three drying cycles before the samples are tested.

Despite type-ratings, all PVAs will soften in a constant marine environment. Avoid: White and hide glues. Their bonds can be undone with hot water. This can be an advantage when expecting repairs.

Conservators prefer hide glue because new glue reactivates old. Try: Epoxy is the only adhesive suited for constant water contact but for typical outdoor projects, Titebond II, polyurethane, and urea formaldehyde will all hold their own.

For projects that might be exposed to hot water, consider Titebond III. If a joint is slightly less than perfect, you may not need to worry. In such cases, consider leaving the clamps on through full curing to keep mating surfaces as snug as possible. Bad craftsmanship and poor clamping practices are another story. If you have a bridle joint with visible gaps, or a tenon that slides around within its mortise, you need a gap-filling specialist.

Avoid: Polyurethane glue. It foams as it cures, but the dry froth has no significant strength. PVA might also seem like a quick fix, but that gap-filling puddle will shrink as it dries. In both cases, the adhesives create a film that seals the cell walls, complicating a future fix.

PVAs work if you can pack the joint to establish direct wood-to-wood contact. Try: Epoxy is the best choice for structural, gap-filling repairs. You can build epoxy fillets around joints for additional reinforcement. Special-blend PVAs possess certain abilities that have made them shop favorites.

With a minute open time twice as long as regular Titebond , Titebond Extend is useful in complex glue-ups. For cabinetry, try Titebond Melamine. As the name suggests, this PVA sticks to melamine, and also vinyl, high pressure laminates and wood. Titebond No-Run, No-Drip stays put and grabs quickly, making it perfect when installing molding and trim. You must be logged in to write a comment.

Log In. Find a Store. My Account. My Cart. Go to Home Page. Mobile Navigation. Same Day Shipping Find a Store. Search Go. Topics Cabinetry. Choosing Hardware. Dust Collection. Be sure to check out his YouTube channel that has his complete presentation of the results! Which is the best wood glue? This was not the original question to start started this test off, but it soon became the goal of the whole test.

Initially, I just wanted to know if there was any benefit to using dry hide glue over one of the commonly available liquid choices. I decided that if I was already doing a glue test, I might as well throw in a couple of the PVAs and see how those do, and in that case, I might as well test epoxy and the list began to grow from there. In the end, there were a total 32 types of glue pitted against each other to find out which was the best choice for one of four different situations: long grain to long grain, long grain to end grain, gap-filling, and exterior conditions.

Each glue would be tested 10 times in each of the four scenarios. The data would be collected by using a calibrated load cell to test the actual breaking strength of every single block of wood. I was really interested to see if any of my assumptions stood up to the rigors of an actual test. In the long grain to end grain test, the gap filling test, and the exterior test, the super glues or cyanoacrylate CA glues did exceptionally well.

In most cases, they beat out the standard epoxies and PVA glues. The tests demonstrated a strong correlation between the thickness of the CA glue to the strength of its bond.

The thinner the glue the weaker the strength, but with the thick gel CA glues actually work very well as a gap-filling or end grain glue. The glues were also tested with the activator to see if the strength of the glue changed, most of the time it did not. With the thick gel CA, the activator did harm the strength of the glue. Though more tests are needed to assess for sure why, I believe it has something to do with not allowing the gel enough time to soak into the wood before it was activated.

I am intrigued to see if CA glues can maintain their strength over time. Further testing needs to be completed, but that will probably be the next glue test. When I first got started in hand tool woodworking, I built a bench and the joints were not as clean as they should have been. It was suggested I should use gorilla glue or another polyurethane glue to fill the gaps in the joints.

This solution seems to make sense and tends to be the common knowledge answer to gap filling in less than perfect joints. As a result, I fully expected the Gorilla Glue to hold up very well filling a large gap, but I was extremely surprised. Not only did the Gorilla Glue fail early, but it was consistently at the bottom of the list of glues used for gap-filling. You would be far better off using a thick or gel CA glue to fill a gap than polyurethane.

Moral of the story, do not use Gorilla Glue to fill gaps. One of the key things I wanted to find out in the test was whether there was a difference between liquid hide glue, such as old brown high glue and Titebond hide glue, and dry hide glues that you mix with water in a double boiler. Though there is much to be said for the fun of making your own high glue in a double boiler, the test showed that in most instances the liquid hide glues did just as well, if not better, than their dry counterparts.

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