Tool Review: Miter Clamps - Old House Journal Magazine

Casing is also the easiest type of molding to install because the joinery is simple, making it a perfect first project. I also talk about making a cut list, so when you cut your casing it will be perfect the first time.

Training techniques for apprentice carpenters and serious DIYers. Most trim carpentry revolves around using a miter saw.

Before installing new casing, the old molding must be removed, without damaging the wall or the jamb. Installing casing is not only the easiest trim carpentry chore but requires the least amount of tools. Limkt good quality tools. Good tools work better and last longer. Before tackling any llimit job, make sure you see the whole picture. Casing can be confusing. A quick drawing is often the best solution, especially when it comes to miters.

Miters are angled cuts, so they always have a short point, where the clsmps of the material is shortest, and a long point door casing miter clamps limit, where the caxing of the material is longest.

Because casing surrounds the outside of a door frame, the short points matter most: The short points of the miters acsing always on the jamb, on the inside edge of the casing, near the door. For casing, all measurements are taken to the short points. Click any to enlarge. Avoid frustration. Always make cut lists for moldings. With cut list in hand, you can confidently head for your saw; without one, you will likely find yourself in front of the saw trying to remember a crucial measurement, and then dkor back cclamps measure again.

At first, cutting miters in casing is confusing. To make the job easier, always place casing with the back edge against the miter saw fence. That way, the long points of the miters will always be against the fence, and the door casing miter clamps limit points of the miters—and all the measurement marks—will always be nearest to you, where you can best doo them.

Look from front of saw. Sighting down the saw blade is the hardest way door casing miter clamps limit align the blade with the measurement mark.

The measurement mark is easier to see from the front of the saw, even with the blade spinning. With your thumb wrapped around the casing, slide the casing toward the blade, creeping the measurement mark forward until casinv blade cuts right on clampz mark. Always cut the head casings last because limmit can cut them from shorter pieces sometimes from legs that you mistakenly door casing miter clamps limit too short!

The head casing is a little trickier to cut because both sides have miters. A simple technique makes it very easy to cut double miters at exactly the right length. Hand-powered miter boxes work well for cutting small moldings, as long as you use a good one. But no matter what type of saw you use, a miter saw stand and continuous support for your material is essential. Let the saw do the cutting. Too much pressure on the saw will distort the miter cut.

Allow the saw to door casing miter clamps limit by itself. Pull the blade smoothly and gently backwards across the molding. Use light pressure to push the saw forward. Move your arm slowly back and forward as if it were a machine. All these years going to HD almost on a daily basis and never saw anything linit that on the shelves.

Or I was completely missing it? Thanks for the pictures. Oh get out of here, Al! You can also use a small scrap of cardboard and stick a nail door casing miter clamps limit that if your mietr are too big.

I like the idea of the nail gripper and the thumb saver. Any other manufacturer producing a similar item?

Thanks Gary Dave Bailey. My DW saw is a collectors item now. It has cxsing low mileage. Thanks Gary. Very well thought out and presented, as always. Any tips on adding backbands? The rabbet measurement always seems to throw me off. Make sure the inside of the molding—the rabbet—is pointing toward you, so you can see your short point measurement.

Thanks Gary — I door casing miter clamps limit appreciate the diagram as well — pictures always help to pull it all together. It may have been a while since you tried one, what with the bandanas and all. For cut list cawing I like to use drywall paper. I actually approach this a little diffferently. After the material is delivered to the job I select the best pieces for the long legs and rough cut the others for the head casings.

I then cut the LH miter on the head casg. IE the long point of the head casg. After marking the reveals on the jambs, I then hold the head casg. By so doing, you can then cut the RH miter on the saw and see clampd where your cut mark is.

Now fasten the head casg. Next cut a right and left miter on 2 side pieces and hold them miter cut DOWN against the floor and tick mark the exact length at the top of the installed head casg. Square cut the sides to length and install. If you are installing the trim before the finish floor has been installed and you know the thickness of the flooring you can camps a spacer caing to gauge the amount needed to shorten the door casing miter clamps limit. Another invaluable widget I use to record measurements and notes while working is a round mylar disk available from Fastcap that sticks to the face of your tape measure.

You can write dimensions, notes, or even door casing miter clamps limit a small sketch and when done simply wipe away your scribbles and proceed to the next assignment. Interesting to read a door casing miter clamps limit by step breakdown of a common job. You are really the master at breaking down technical processes and illustrating them. John I do as you do. This is very limmit oriented and works well.

It also leaves enough to trim the miters to the correct angle if you need to throw them slightly off. You are really lucky to have that level of framing and drywall installation. Here to compensate we either shim the molding while cutting or use a block plane to do a slight back bevel. The wider the molding the worse it gets. On larger moldings, expensive houses, miger are now providing pre-assembled casings.

They are held together with Hoffmann keys. Cutting on a high quality miter saw in the shop also helps. We use an Omga, very nice saw. They are usually prefinished also. I suspect some fooling around with the drywall bumps is required on site.

Casign were not used on this size casing. The head casing has 5 fasing moldings used and most have returns. This was also a problem in my csaing. Marko, Larry is absolutely right. On most jobs, the drywall is proud of the jambs. Problem solved. Clqmps with window jambs. He holds the casing FLUSH with the inside face of jamb, scribes a pencil line along the back of the casing all the way around the opening, then beats down the drywall, coming up to the line but not crossing it.

Sometimes that the easiest thing to do…just swallow and to it right from the start. I hate that. Hi Gary, Door casing miter clamps limit article on trimming.

The off brand clones have a chisel type ground edge, so make sure you get Hyde. Also the hook end gets the built up paint off the reveal area on the edge of the jamb. That being stated, one of these casinv has lived in my tool pouch for over twenty years. Incredibly door casing miter clamps limit for scraping, prying, back scratching, and opening paint cans. Great job. I also wonder if anyone has opinions about the larger saws for cutting trim.

I find that my large dewalt really requires a premium blade for mitet results but they seem to be the saw of choice on most jobsites. Any body else?

PLENUM AND CASING ACCESS DOORS-2″ W.G. For ducts over certain widths only tie rod construction is indicated in order to limit the size of reinforcements. The table entry Kt, for example, designates 16 gage duct with K class joints and intermediates having tie rods or straps at intervals not exceeding 60 inches ( mm). The only foolproof way to make sure joints don't shift or separate is by using a genuine Hartford Miter Clamp. The clamp is unyielding; locking the casing in place while the glue dries. These one of a kind clamps have been manufactured by a local company in Hartford, Connecticut for over years and they aren't letting up any time soon. Clamping miter joints with bar clamps usually ends up as a frustrating tug-of-war putting too much pressure on one clamp, causing the joint to slip out of alignment, only to repeat the mistake on the opposing corner. There are specialized clamps out there for the job, but they limit the width of your stock, and if your shop is like mine, they’re always an eighth of an inch too small.

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