How to make wood turning tools with carbide cutters. I made these for my son's Christmas present. We had a budget of under Make your own DIY carbide woodturning tool. The Woodgineer. Aufrufe 2 - 2 years. Hey people, this is a video of my home-made carbide woodturning tool. I'm extremely happy with the build but given half the   I just completed making two carbide tipped turning tools; a straight scraper with a 2” radius square tip, and a round tip cutter on a DIY Carbide Lathe Tool. Carbide woodturning tools are an option for woodturning. We demonstrate carbide cutters and compare and contrast them with conventional woodturning tools and discuss the pros and cons. If you missed Part 2 click here - I upload new wood turning videos regularly so Ya’ll come back, hear? As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases from my Amazon shop - Affiliate link to set of carbide tools -   Mike Peace Woodturning. Carbide Woodturning Tools – Who Needs Them? Part 1. Теги. The premium wood turning tools use replaceable carbide inserts that stay sharp considerably longer, but you also pay a premium for them. Instead of paying around $ per tool, I set out to make my own. After it's all said and done, I've got $53 dollars invested in two carbide cutting tools, and I've got 6 regular steel chisels and gouges left from the materials that I bought for the project. Not too shabby - here's how it's done! Add Tip.  I bought a set of 8 lathe tools from Harbor Freight for $ I also purchased a pair of carbide inserts from Easy Wood Tools on Amazon. I decided on the Ci0 round cutter and the Ci1-R2 radiused square cutter. Both carbide inserts came with their own hold down screws. If you're following this guide verbatim, here are the links to exactly what I bought. Reply 4 years ago. The carbide on these tips last nicely and the woodturning is much easier with these tools now. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the diy carbide wood turning tools manual time I comment. Once you've got it lined up the way that you want it, use the inside of the carbide insert as a guide and scratch a circle into the steel tool shaft. In the intro you said you wanted to make a tool that is better than the one you bought. To view full details and available options for any product, click on the picture.

The rods doesnt seem to be SS May be they are 0r common steel. It works also very good. Well I finally got a lathe now for tools Still have any of those cutters available?? Posting just went down but I will repost today or tomorrow. The inserts work great. Thank you. Part of the game with turning is that you end up with kindling. The tool with flat surfaces actually increases control and using carbide cutters and taking small cuts all reduce catch potential.

As to using brass, I am cheaper and use copper pipe for ferrules. Good tutorial overall. Thank you and good suggestion on copper pipe. I used the brass for the thick wall but either will work.

As far as a flat insert vs slightly rounded, I tend to be able to cut without catching with the rounded insert and struggle with the square bit, although it is a 14 mm vs an 11 mm. In the intro you said you wanted to make a tool that is better than the one you bought. Is it indeed better? On the tool that I bought, when you tighten the carbide Insert it wants to twist, that is because when they machined it they put a 30 deg angle on it which matches the Insert but let's it ride up on it.

Second, the wood that was used is cheap, from China.. Third the metal is lightly chrome plated over bronze.. I used Iron Wood and Wild Almond, but exotic woods and both a lot harder. The SS is much harder than Bronze and when I tighten the cutter it does not spin..

I have since turned 2 pens with it and like the solid feel and the movement across the tool rest.. A nice looking tool. A few suggestions if you don't mind: Gluing endgrain to endgrain generally produces weak joints so I'd be tempted to use something to link the 2 pieces of the handle - either a small length of metal rod or turn a tenon joint in the wooden pieces, allowing you to glue side grain.

Brass is pretty soft and can be turned quite easily on a wood lathe, which is probably faster than using a file. Whether you use a file or turn the brass try to collect it underneath the work rather than with a dust extractor. I usually drill the hole before I fit the ferrule. Once drilled mount the wood with the tailstock in the hole so it will always be centred.

You won't worry about hitting the brass with your drill either. Start from the bottom.. For the next 4 tools, I plan to drill first, agree that it will be a lot easier and keep the center true.. I originally planned to drill on the Lathe, so yes I totally agree. On the Brass, I thought the same thing, and with the Carbide Cutter I did trim some, but stopped as the hot brass shavings were gathering on my hand..

I did not want to suggest this and have someone get burned. Plus the file was quick. For this tool, I drilled into the second piece of wood and tapped a SS pin between the 2 halves with Med. CA on it.. I do like the tenon joint idea.. More by the author:.

You can learn how to properly sharpen a woodturning gouge or chisel and not fear that you are going to ruin your dollar wood-lathe gouge! Woodturning is one of those hobbies that might look like it would be pretty easy and cheap to get into and get started. Or you could spend over bucks a gouge to discover the difference. This approach has one problem, if its one of your first gouges you will probably ruin it at some point, whether the sharpening or thru misuse.

Check out my post on where to buy woodturning tools and equipment. So, my advice would be to start with a cheap set of tools and then buy the more expensive tools on a one by one basis, learning the ins and outs of that tool.

Are you handy, do you have basic wood turning and woodworking skills, do you have some knowledge of steel and how to work with it? Recently a set of tools has entered the market that looks like a standard wood lathe chisel or gouge, but in reality it simply has a carbide insert cutter screwed into the end of a length of steel.

You can go to www. I wish I had tried these before I invested in my expensive sharpening system. These tools look just like a standard gouge except the end accepts a square, round, or diamond shape carbide wood cutter screwed to the metal shaft. They stay sharp much longer than standard tools, they come in a variety of widths, they can be resharpened…. Remember, no sharpening.

They last 7 times longer and they are newbie friendly. So, if money is tight but you have a lathe and you want to start to understand the difference between cheap Chinese tools made with inferior steel and a bowl gouge that has a carbide insert cutter ……well, you can make one yourself. Have you checked out ebay for Carbide Wood Lathe Tools? When I was researching lathes, tools, jaws, chisels, gouges, and all the other necessary wood turning accessories it became overwhelming!

Then you just have to do the research on what tools to use while turning a project. Hacksaw, Dremel, sanding disc, etc. If you expose bare metal, make sure to protect it with some wax, as well.

I will still probably tweak these tools a bit, but they turned into a very nice and affordable set of carbide cutters! I'm happy throwing chips on the garage floor again. I need to figure out a nicer way to align the square cutter while I tighten it. The premium tools that use these inserts have a shelf milled into them to locate the cutter and to keep it from rotating when you tighten the screw.

For now, I'm happy enough with indexing it by hand until I get it just right. Again, be careful of how sharp the blades are when you're handling them!

I'm also curious about the feel of round bottom tools. Most chisels are flat, but you get a nice feeling from rocking and rolling a round gouge on your tool rest, so I will eventually try to come up with a way to mount these cutters on a round bar and achieve that feel. What do you think? Have you done a project like this? What did you do better? What should I do next time? Tip 1 year ago on Introduction.

Please someone tell me what is harder than a cobalt bit or a Ace hardware center punch. Reply 3 years ago. I sure didn't need any special tooling for my build. The drill bits and taps that I used probably came from Harbor Freight as well. I was using an "automatic" center punch that's just a spring loaded point that pops itself when you apply enough pressure to it, so that's a pretty light duty tool as well.

I think that the factory heat treating between chisels is wildly inconsistent on the HF tools. Somebody else asked, and you might have read in another comment on the thread, that one of my chisels cut like butter and the other one was 'tight' and squeaked the tools when I tapped it I'm not sure which way is "right" or how they're supposed to come when they're new, but they were definitely different than each other from the get go.

Anyway, the other poster recommended annealing the chisels before tapping them if people ran into this issue.

I'm not a metallurgy buff, so I don't actually know the right way to do that safely without doing some google searching first. Heat the end up with a blowtorch to red hot. To harden again - heat up to red hot and then cool by dipping in can of oil. To get a controlled temper you need to do more work look it up but these tools are not used for cutting so you just want it a bit stronger than unannealed steel and this will do. Reply 1 year ago.

Thats right the annealing is the best way to go anyway as you may save yourself a few drill bits or taps, but retempering is also easy, you polish the steel so that when reheating you can carefully watch the colours flowing through the material, the yellow straw color will give you back a pretty hard temper and then quickly dunk the piece into oil or even water.

If you were to heat back to red hot then you would make the material very brittle and possibly dangerous it can shatter in your hands while using it , the other colours that can be seen e.

That way you can turn the cutter 45 degrees to either side and get a scraping action. A little hard to get used to, but they work great. Reply 4 years ago. Look very carefully at the picture in step 6, you will see that a portion of the un-threaded part of the screw protrudes below the cutter, the countersink allows clearance for this part of the mounting screw. Reply 2 years ago. Not only that - even without that, it's not a bad idea to at least chamfer the hole a tiny bit to make sure the cutter sits flush to the surface.

Basically deburring, but not everyone has a set of deburring tools - a slight touch with a countersink is a reasonable substitute. The taper on the bottom of the screw protrudes below the bottom of these inserts.

It wasn't part of the original plan, but I couldn't fully tighten them without this step. Tip 2 years ago on Step 5. At minimum, use Tap-Ease, SafeTap, or something with a similar name. I'd really recommend a sulfur-compound-containing fluid like ReLiOn, which changed my life when tapping tough-to-tap hard steels.

While it works for mild steel etc. Seriously, not only does it make tapping much easier, but it also saves the unbelievable headache of a broken tap jammed permanently in the hole. Went through like butter.

No "backing-off to clear the chips", either. I bought the tap and the ReLiOn, never looked back. I debated on which carbide inserts to buy.

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