We used 8 screws per gusset. Custpm doors up with pocket holes. Step 9. Vinegar and Steel Wool with Tea Project. The plastic was put down to not scratch the coin during custom woodworking projects meaning operations. If you are familiar with woodworking then go ahead and get started.

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards.

Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold.

Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck! Frame you your back walls. Screw or nail and glue on. And add the cedar siding to back wall as shown in diagram. Do not forget that the sides need to be done in mirror! Once your side walls are complete, you can attach back walls. Add header to front of shed. Take a minute here to make sure your project is square. The door area especially needs to be square.

I love this shed! Unfortunately for me I don't have a space around my house to put this I would advise to put some kind of liner underneath the shingles, especially if youve got powertools stored in the shed. Doesnt need to be tar necessarily but at least some thick plastic. In reply to I would advise to put some by emmarosemc.

I had some looong conversations with the people in the roofing departments in both Lowe's and Home Depot made sure to talk to a lot of people, because it's hard to get accurate advice from one person that may or may not have done a roof!

So everyone'll definitely benefit from looking into how roofs in your area are done! I've been praying you'd post some kind of plans like this Thanks Ana! Jessica, what a great idea! You could just add a little chicken door out the back and a run and have a coop! With the large double doors, cleaning inside would be a piece of cake! I am working on some chicken coop plans, but it could be a bit to build and test and post.

Thank you so much for being patient with me! Anna, don't have chickens as of now but l have 5 cats, my daughter renting front half of our duplex has 6 cats. Last fall bought 2 - 10 x 10 x 6 ft high dog kennel's for my 18 yr old sheperd to run free in no chain. Just wondering if you have any plans for our cats who needs exercise and my de clawed cat who catn't run loose. A runner put in maybe a few ramps, hollow tubes an area safe for them to run get sunlight have fun in the nice weather.

Just not sure what type of wire or mesh to put around 4 sides won't get claws caught in. If you have any diagrams plans etc please email them to me thanks jim. What a Wonderful Building! What an affordable storage option that will last a long time. Maybe this will be a summer project.

I have been looking for something like this to build and put on my back deck for a potting shed. I am always doing stuff in the yard and i always have to either go up front to the garage or way in the back to the shed for my yard tools. Since most of my flower beds and potted plants are on or around my deck this would be perfect to keep all my little yard tools in and handy.

You always seem to time things perfectly for your readers' needs! Was hoping that you'd one day post more outdoor projects such as this shed. I love it! You are one amazing person, Ana!!! Single Simple Modern Outdoor Lounger. Narrow Farmhouse Table Computer Desk. Works well painted too! Square Farmhouse Table. Sweet pea bunk bed. Trimmed and ready for Christmas - Dollhouse. Home Office Project. French Country Sideboard. Bathroom Vanity Inspiration. Fun The Actual Marriage Proposals.

Vinegar and Steel Wool with Tea Project. Adirondack Chair Home Depot Plans. Faux fireplace. Black Farm House Bed. Pottery Barn knock off. Tractor Seat stool. I hope this solution we came up with works for many of you too! How much does this cedar shed cost to build? You'll end up with two extra latches, but I'm sure they'll come in handy elsewhere!

So this could definitely be a weekend project! Maybe this info will come in handy for some of you! Bear in mind that a metal 3D printed coin will be many times more expensive than one which you mill out yourself, but if you don't have access to a CNC mill, or the money to buy one, and you're only planning to make one coin it could very well be a viable option.

Unfortunately this mill was not intended to mill metal, not even soft ones like the brass we're using, so we need to make some adjustments to make it work like we want. A word of caution! Since this mill is made for softer material it's usually enough to use double sided sticky tape for the work holding. I made the mistake of trying that, as can be seen in the image using the thick aluminium block for a base. Don't repeat my mistake, as when milling metal you introduce Custom Woodworking Projects 61 much more force and vibration into the machine.

If the tape doesn't come loose entirely it will still not be rigid enough to hold the stock still, and the resulting vibrations will make the end result quite rough, not like you'd want to see on a coin. Because of this an entirely new bed was made for the mill using some thick aluminium plate, into this four holes were drilled and tapped at known positions, and corresponding clearance holes were drilled through the stock to mount the brass in the mill.

This will be a rigid enough setup for the machine not to vibrate itself to pieces. Since we're going to mill both sides of the coin we need to be able to make sure that the back is aligned with the front.

Using the four holes we drilled in the stock, find the centerpoint and mark it. In the mill use this mark to set the X and Y zero points. This is where you're going to have to experiment a bit to find the speeds and feeds which work for you. Be prepared to ruin a piece or two while dialing in the correct settings.

The Roland MDXa mill has an overload protection, so if you push the mill too hard, and the tool can take it, it will jam and shut down. Then again, if you don't push it enough the milling operation will take absolutely forever.

If you have a stronger and more rigid machine you can definitely go faster without introducing chatter and vibrations. For the tool we're using a 90 degree engraving cutter. This also has to do with the underpowered mill, as this tool will have less contact with the stock than a ball ended endmill would. Again, if you have a better mill, you could use the ball ended endmill to hog away most of the material in a roughing pass and then change to the engraving cutter for the last little bits.

I found that milling the coin in a spiral path from the center out produced best results, as compared to milling following the X and then Y axis, but you may have to experiment to find what works for you. When the front is done, remove all the dust, flip it and screw it back down. Do not rezero or reset the X and Y origin points, they should remain in the same place as when you milled the front.

If you were fastidious in centering on the mark on the front of the coin the back should mill aligned with the front. While doing it all by eye isn't the most exact method, with care you can still get it within a fraction of a millimeter, close enough for no one to notice if the alignment is off.

Milling the back is just a repeat of the front, just with different 3D geometry. Model yourself a fancy coin, or make a replica of an already existing one, just don't try to pass it off as legal tender.

Then again, considering the time and effort which would go into making this you'd be crazy to try to make a quarter or two to use as payment.

As the mill was underpowered the entire coin was not milled out, but a small ledge was milled around as much of the cirumference as possible without crashing into the screws. This ledge could then be used as a guide when clearing away most of the rest of the material on a belt sander. There's of course nothing stopping you from simply filing away the rest of the material as well. A file was put up against an angle plate and the coin filed against it while pushed down against a flat surface.

This created a nice right angle around the coin, and got rid of the unsightly marks left by the belt sander. This is a bit of a long process, but it gives a very nice result in the end. You could stop here, and you would have a very nice coin. However, it is just bare brass, and it doesn't have much depth or life to it at the moment.

You could just handle it and over time it would build up oxidation and grime enough to look interesting. Or if you're impatient, like me, you could create your own patina pretty simply. With brass, as it contains a lot of copper, there are many ways to oxidize and create a patina. There is a compound called liver of sulfur which is very good at this specific task. You can also hard boil an egg, smash it up and leave it with your coin in a sealed plastic bag don't let the coin touch the egg though over night, the sulphur in the egg will create a patina on the brass.

Not having access to liver of sulfur and having eaten all the eggs made for another way to create a patina look. First the coin was burnt with a blowtorch enough to dull and oxidize the surface of the metal. It won't create a dark oxidation, but more of an unsightly brown patina.

To fix that we're going to grab a can of matte black spray paint. Spray paint! Just give the coin a quick coat and before it dries wipe off as much paint as you can. This will leave paint in the recesses and make it look quite dirty and even more unsightly. Final step, and here is where the magic comes in. Once the paint has dried thoroughly, take some metal polishing compound, like Autosol, and polish the high spots of the coin.

This will bring the shine back and give a nice, multi-layered, patina on your coin. The burnt oxidation will shine through in places, and the black spray paint will stay in the recesses. If you find that the paint has gone a bit grayish after polishing you can just treat the coin with a bit of linseed oil. It will absorb into the paint, darkening it, and then harden over time so your coin won't stay all oily. And your coin is done! Present it to whoever you want to give it to, or keep it for yourself constantly reciting "My preciousssss" every time you handle it, the sky is the limit.

Of course, if the sky truly is the limit, and you're planning to give this to someone, why not put in the extra little effort and make a nice container for it. Read on for how to bump your coin up another level! Here we're using a piece of oak, cut in half and opened up so each side of the box will match when closed.

Into this three recesses for coins were milled, each a fraction bigger than the actual coin so they wouldn't bind in their positions. The front of the recesses were also milled slightly deeper than the rest so the coins could easily be extracted by pushing the front down so the back of the coin pops up.

In the corners of the box four smaller recesses were milled in to hold magnets to keep the box closed. A drop of super glue when putting them in ensures they won't move out of place. Cutouts for the hinges were also milled while milling the circumference of the boxes, so the hinges would sit flush with the body of the box. Once you've milled it out just give it a light sanding and treat it any way you feel like.

Give it a nice coating of mineral oil, or why not varnish it to make it shine! If you're shooting material in a dusty or grimy environment and you're worried for the well being of your camera. What if you can't afford an underwater housing just to use in your workshop? No worries, saran wrap or cling film to the rescue! Just cover up your camera in the stuff, and make sure you stretch it over the lens so no folds or bumps are there to distort the footage.

Sure, it's not the best solution, but it will definitely do in a pinch! Now go out and conquer the world! Convince your friends you were once the ruler of a long lost nation! Incist that your currency is good for a venti latte at Starbucks! Heck, do whatever you want to! Thanks for checking out this instructable! Remember to subscribe to my YouTube channel, and follow me here on instructables for more future projects like this. Woven patches are the most widely used and highly preferred types of patches, loved by individuals and businesses alike.

These exquisite patches are creating using thinner threads, which are stitched out expertly in one-go to create a highly detailed and exquisite design. Thanks for this nicely written article. Now only one question remains: What kind oft precision is necessary to mill ones own coins? I was looking for a way to make custom military challenge coins and this just opened up a world of possibilities I plan on using this as my guide to mill the coin, and then add some enamels.

Would you be willing to share the shape files for your wooden box? Again, thanks for sharing this! Excellent work.

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