Powered By: Wayfair. Now then, after your pieces are cut, you might run into the issue build a frame for a large mirror difference the mounts holding the mirror up. Glue Will Do It If you have a wall-to-wall bathroom mirror that looked current a decade ago, but needs updating, do it with molding. The frame on the decorative mirror did not go with my half bathroom, so I removed the plastic frame. Liquid Nails All Surface - as pictured 3. With this primed trim board — there are no knots, no grain, no dfiference — it is completely smooth plus it was already primed!

Buying a framed mirror can cost several hundred dollars or you can DIY your own for a fraction of the cost. We installed two large mirrors during our home gym remodel with the plan to add a wood frame. Mirrors are not only functional but also decorative. Having a mirror in a space can make it feel more open and spacious. For our home gym we purchased two large mirrors each measuring 5 x 3 ft so the total surface area of both mirrors together is 6 x 5 ft and this is what we ended up framing.

You can use this same tutorial for any sized wall mirror in any room just make sure to adjust your measurements. Click here to read my full disclosure policy.

For best measurements I recommend installing your top and bottom pieces, then measuring for the side pieces and then installing the sides. I found the best way to figure out my cuts was to use a dry erase marker and a level. I made several marks one inch from the edge of the mirror and then drew a line connecting the marks. This line marked the edge of where the wood frame would set on the mirror. Step 1 Make sure to locate your studs. We already knew where our studs were located because the mirror clips were already in studs.

After I made my bottom and top cuts I sanded and stained the wood. I also lightly sanded just the edges of the frame after they were stained to add a rustic touch. Step 2 Then we placed the piece of wood against the mirror over the clips and marked where I would need to carve out the wood for the clips.

At first I thought about using a chisel to carve out the wood, then a genius idea hit me. I decided to use a forstner bit instead and it worked amazing. Then we did a test fit, lined it up with the dry erase marker marks, checked for level, and fired in several 18G brad nails. We repeated this for the top part of the frame. Step 3 For the sides I held up a 1 x 4 next to the bottom and top frame and marked for my cuts. Then I made a 45 degree miter cut on both ends, held up with the level and did a dry fit.

Then I sanded and stained the sides, sanded the edges for the rustic touch and attached the sides with 18G brad nails. Step 4 For finishing touches I used wood filler and filled in nail holes and any gaps where the mitered corners met. Wood filler, after diamonds of course is a DIY girls best friend!

See the difference? Hope this post has helped give some ideas for framing a mirror. My standard mirror size was 30" wide by 36" tall. The first cut will be simply to mitre the trim. Naturally, when making a square frame, the easiest way is to set the mitre cut to 45 degrees.

This also gives you straight seems straight with respect to the corners of the mirror. There is one thing to remember when cutting the trim Unlike a 2x4 or similar piece of wood, the trim is thinner on one side than the other, meaning you cannot simply flip the piece of trim over.

See the pictures demonstrating this with a power mitre saw. Once you make the first, cut you will have the 45 degree edge. Measure from the very point of that edge and mark where the point on the other side would be. Rotate your direction of cut, and mitre the opposite side. Now you will have one piece of the frame.

At this point, you will note on your remaining trim, the angle is opposite of what is needed. You will need to perform another mitre cut to the opposite 45 degrees, essentially cutting off a triangle piece of trim.

From there, simply measure, change to the opposite mitre angle, and cut again. At this point, you should have two pieces of cut trim that form have a frame as pictured! My mirrors, and many standard builder mirrors have small clamps holding them to the wall see picture.

In order for our frame to lay flat on the mirror you will need to cut out a small space for those clamps. I used a Dremel with the sanding attachment as pictured in the first step to accomplish this.

Simply measure from the edge of the mirrors where those clamps are they are not necessarily in the same spaces with respect to the edge of the mirror on either side so be sure to measure them all , and mark the back of the trim. Then use your Dremel or hand sander to route out a space. See the included picture of the space routed out for the clamps. Most of the mirrors will have four clamps, two on top and two on bottom so you should only have to perform this action on the top and bottom pieces of the frame.

This is it Now that you have your frame pieces cut, its time to attach them to your mirror. Grab your level, liquid nails in the caulk gun and painters tape! Spread the liquid nails on the backside of the frame pieces in a wave pattern as pictured.

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