If you have some woodwork bench vice generator for me, please leave them in the comments below. I don't have a drill press yet, so I use aoodwork rack for geenerator driller to get the holes perpendicular to the surface. You add the wooden jaw. I use some scrap piece woodwork bench vice generator laminate and mark a wide enough square in my vase 7cm time 7cm. As the name implies, these mount to the front long edge of the bench, typically on a left-hand corner.

Here's a little information to help you pick the vise that makes the most sense for your shop. There are two basic types of bench vise: the front vise and the end vise. The front vise, most often installed at the left corner of the long edge of the workbench, is great for holding a drawer side upright while you cut the tails of a dovetail joint or holding a board edge-up horizontally for hand planing.

The end vise, so named because it is installed at one end of the bench, is designed to hold material flat on the surface of the bench, secured between one or more "dogs" sticking up from the top of the vise's jaw and corresponding dogs fitted into holes in the bench surface.

Many front vises also have a pop-up dog on the outer jaw to you hold stock flat on the table. I will make a few adjustments though with a wider thread bar and solid guide rails as mentioned in previous comments but your idea is great and i will definitely be adding this to my workshop! The only problem Woodwork Bench With Vice Detection I have is Woodwork Bench With Vice 10 you should have used hardwoods for maximum durability.

Some maple would not have been too costly. Over time you will find these things matter in a work bench. It really gets beat up and a soft wood will not endure as much abuse. You might enjoy this DIY quick-adjust mechanism by Pask, particularly with your fine for a vise threads. Reply 2 years ago. Nice project. The usual screw thread for a vise is a coarse pitch called acme thread.

It's also used on adjustable piano stools. Thx for the advice. I also found some one who build a vise from a base jack, which is used on scaffolding. Yup, the difference is huge, here and in the wooden vise I built a lot of time is wasted since the vise jaw doesn't advance that much for each turn Question 2 years ago on Step 8.

I'm curious why you chose hollow copper pipe for the horizontal sliding supports. Does the vise need to flex to work properly? Answer 2 years ago. Well you need some clearance for the horizontal movement due to the slop of the thread.

But that clearance is very small and is easily achieved by the holes where the pipes go into. I used the copper pipes because they were scrap material from an old project and were laying around in my shop. I guess you could easily use different kind of pipes, hollow or solid, of different materials. Take what suites you is the cheapest. By Stish Tiny Workshop Follow. More by the author:.

Please post all your questions and remarks in the comments below. I hope you like it and will enjoy the instructions. Have fun :. Be careful by welding zinc-coated material! Acrid fumes can be developed! Now I got my laminate-spruce sandwich : I glue all pieces together using wood glue. Well that's it. Now I have my own workbench vise. It did a great job here, but there are some improvements I would do differently next time or I will add later: I will add a stop bolt to the end of the rod, which will keep the vise from being opened to wide I added hardwood to the outer jaw, but totally forgot about the workbench jaw.

I'll add another piece of laminate to it The threaded rod works fine, but the slope of the thread is very low. So you need a lot of turns to open the vise. Maybe I would use a higher slope next time. But this is just a convenience thing I will add some bench dog holes to the vise and the workbench. This will make it easier to hold down workpieces. Well that's it so far. If you have some advice for me, please leave them in the comments below. Did you make this project?

Share it with us! I Made It! Wentzeltp 8 weeks ago. Reply Upvote. And high humidity could cause the parts to swell and bind. As the name implies, this vise installs into the bench leg, which sometimes serves as the fixed jaw. With a flush-fitting vise, the leg itself serves as a full-length fixed jaw.

A leg vise moves via a single screw with a pinned sliding guide rail to maintain parallelism. The guide-rail pin rests against end-grain hard-maple pads that prevent compressing the softer alder leg of this bench. However, you can build up some legs to make a leg vise work. These mount to the end of the bench and typically work with bench dogs along the length of the benchtop.

If you prefer rectangular dogholes, cut those notches in the boards before gluing them to the benchtop; round holes can be drilled before or after assembly. A traditional tail vise [ Photos H and I ] consists of a rectangular or L-shape block of wood the jaw fastened to a steel or cast-iron fixture that slides back and forth in a cutaway corner of the bench.

A long mortise accepts the screw and threaded fixture, and the upper guide rail fits in the slot. A lower guide rail, not shown, mounts beneath the jaw.

The tail vise slides back and forth along the guide rails, held in place by the screw assembly. Too much clamping force, however, can cause boards to bow up. Typically, you use two rows of bench dogs to hold long or wide stock. The timing chain on a twin-screw end vise syncs the screws.

You can adjust either screw should the vise jaws get out of Woodwork Bench Vice Quartz parallel. You can intentionally make the jaws unparallel for clamping irregular-shape workpieces. With an old handscrew clamp and some scraps of hardwood, you can set up your thickness planer to Skip to main content.

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