Thank you for all your wonderful instruction. I am making a charcuterie board for my daughter out of African Mahogany a limb from one of their trees. After 24 hours then burnish the surface with steel wool. I am just woodcraft salad bowl finish 100 interested in learning how to turn wood. Thanks Kent….

Many wood finishes are food safe once the product is dried and cured. Tried and True Original is a food safe wood finish in product form. Tried and True is not a pure waterproof finish. It is water resistant. This finish can take the daily use and hand dishwashing without a problem.

Hand-wash, with a mild soap and warm water, rinse and towel dry any bowls finished with Tried and True. Submerging a wood bowl finished with Tried and True in water for a prolonged time is not advised, along with microwaves, dishwashers, and beavers.

By far, water does more damage than fire or any other natural element. A wood bowl finished with most finishing products, will wear down over time.

The beeswax component in Tried and True Original is the key water resistant element that makes it water resistant. Beeswax has long been known to have many incredible properties. In Egyptian tombs and among Roman ruins beeswax has been found. The applications for beeswax use throughout history are varied and extensive. Another surprising fact about beeswax and an essential connection with our wood bowls-it will never go bad.

Let me repeat, because this is a big deal, beeswax never goes bad. Beeswax can be reheated and reused, virtually forever. Tried and True, for me, is one of those products I must have.

When my can of Tried and True Original gets low, I always order a new one before the old one is gone. I use it that much and dread thinking about not having it on hand. Tried and True Original is available online through Amazon. I initially tried a quart and then immediately jumped to the cost savings of the gallon can of Tried and True Original. Per ounce, the gallon size is a better value in the long run. This food safe wood finish has incredible coverage since only a thin coat is needed per application.

Tried and True Original is one such product. I love the ease, speed, and simplicity of applying Tried and True Original wood finish to my wood bowls. The elegant, understated low-gloss luster of a wood bowl finished with Tried and True lets the beautiful grain speak for itself.

If you are interested in creating a high-gloss quality finish, be sure to read this article that will teach you how easy it is to spray lacquer! Let me know if you use Tried and True Original food safe wood finish and what you think of this product. Please leave a comment below. Happy Turning and Finishing , Kent. All are sanded to then get 3 coats of Tung oil at which point they feel smooth as glass.

I think the biggest thing to consider is that the Tung oil is completely dry and cured first. Then, you should be fine. I just purchased Tried and True Original after reading your analyst. Very interesting about sanding to Thank you for all your wonderful instruction. Being able to be instructed remotely during this isolation crisis is a real blessing! Ellen, So glad this helped you. Sometimes I use shellac first, but usually on trouble wood with punky end grain.

You might consider my Courses found in the top menu. Happy Turning, Kent. Thanks so much for such great information!

It will be used for tea and what not. Thanks again Luke. It might work, but it will depend on the type and grain of the wood being used. Hi Kent, great information! I bought a lovely wood tray. It has been stained and sealed using a lacquer sealant. When I have wiped it with a sponge, water penetrates the wood, which is not good. I asked the maker of the tray and she recommended sealing it with poly. Would Tried and True be water resistant enough to be a wipeable surface or do I need to use something else?

If so, can you recommend a specific product? I would recommend not to use the poly. Instead, I would recommend sanding off the lacquer and applying the Tried and True Original. New follower, great videos and unlimited information.

Thanks Frank. If not it can be recoated. Over time the finish can dull, but it is easily rejuvenated with a quick coat. I am making a charcuterie board for my daughter out of African Mahogany a limb from one of their trees. It has cured a few years now. I love the various coloring and shimmering look. It has a glow BUT it will have food on it. I considered lacquer but think oil is a better choice because the board will probably have cheese on it with little knives to cut.

So, 1. Do I need to resend down to and 2. If I use this oil will it take away the variant colors in the wood and 3. Will it darken the wood? I had used on a sample piece of the same wood Howard Butcher Block Conditioner oil which is food grade mineral oil stabilized with Vitamin E, beeswax and carnauba wax but it darkened the wood and took away the beauty.

I appreciate your thoughts. First off, any finish is going to change the appearance of the wood. Raw sanded and prepared wood is usually dull and dry in appearance and finish revives the color and life of the wood. This is the best you can apply to the surface. You can also use the Tried and True Original which is linseed oil and beeswax, again with zero additional elements.

Hello, Fantastic article and great questions by the readers. I learned a lot. My question has to do with wooden cooking utensils, cutting boards, etc. Im researching new wooden utensils for cooking.

Part II of my question. Im trying to determine which type of wood is best to buy for health safety and durability. There is a lot of controversy and information out there. Based on what Ive read, Im thinking about Teak, Beachwood or Bamboo; although open to any suggestions. I am leaning toward a set of Beachwood utensils made in France that are quite reasonably priced.

Teak tends to be overpriced and I personally find it hard to determine if a bamboo product is safely processed given how many brands are out there. And lastly, then I will shut up and listen… lol I read an article that is really bothering me. Is this correct? Is this guy bonkers? I know that wooden kitchenware needs to be treated regularly with oil, not soaked in water or dishwasher, … but carry bacteria? Would I retreat occasionally?

The Tried and True Original can be applied once and will last a long time. Tried and True Danish can be applied with multiple layers like the mineral oil to saturate the wood.

Interesting take on wood. I have actually heard the opposite. Wood has anti-bacterial properties and is safe for food, safer than some other materials. Film finishes, like lacquer, can be bad for bacteria if they chip and food or debris gets in and under the cracked area, they can develop bacteria.

But oiled boards are fine. For the final buffing stage with Tried and True, do you think Scotchbrite non woven pad could be used in place of steel wool? The pad is rated at The finish should rise from a dull to semi-luster when the surface is burnished.

Perhaps, try both and see if the Scotchbrite is similar. My guess is, the results will be similar. Do you happen to know of another finish that I might investigate and use? I hope this is the product I need. I have a huge vintage Dansk teak salad bowl. It looks beautiful but the salad dressing leaks out.

The seams are not obviously separated, but the leak is substantial. Would this product seal the seams? Thank Fusion Salad Bowl Finish 100 you so much for sharing your expertise. If there is a visible gap or crack, that would need to be repaired. However, you could also be referring to leaking through end-grain. If the wood is porous enough, you could have leaking through the end grain fibers.

Yes, Tried and True Original with linseed oil and beeswax will begin to fill some of that porous area. I am hoping that the Tried and True will be a nice finish. They do not have a dishwasher, so my only concern is that they do their dishes once a day in the evening, the rest of the time the dirty dishes are left in a water tub to soak.

Sounds pretty cool, CNC printed cups and bowls. Wood is a celluous structure that absorbs and sheds moisture all the time and soaking will ruin the wood over time. The Tried and True Original, which has beeswax, will repel some water, but it is not waterproof. Thanks so much for the article. I am working on refinishing an outdoor wood table that would need to be food-safe.

Would this be a good product to seal it with following wood stain? Any guidance is greatly appreciated. Thank you! Yes, you can apply Tried and True over a wood stain. Thanks for a great article. I have 2 questions. Someone even said that it is the consistency of honey. Does it flow on evenly and easily or is it thick and sticky?

I need something that I can get into nooks, crannies, and crevices and then be able to wipe off the excess. Also, I made up my own beeswax and stand oil heated linseed oil wood finish, as recommended by Chris Schwarz…1 part beeswax to 4 parts stand oil. It gives a nice finish on flat pieces of wood, but is too hard and stiff for my needs detail work.

Have you ever worked with or made this type of finish and if so how could I thin it down and soften it to make it more suitable to my needs without introducing turpentine or another solvent? Again, thanks for a great article and any advice you could give would be greatly appreciated.

Jim Hipp. See this video of mine to view the application. If you are seeing the product on the wood, you have applied enough. Then you wipe any thick areas off after an hour. And after hours come back and buff it out with a clean cloth.

I use this product on delicate thin turned pieces and it works great. Thanks Kent…. From the video, it looks like this finish is probably a good consistency for my carvings. Thanks again….. I use them interchangeably and they blend perfectly. The finish will add a bit of warm color to the wood. My son in law is making a small table for my grandchildren to eat on when they are at my house. I need something to put on the wood to keep it looking nice in the face of, well, grandchildren eating and playing on it!

Will this product work or is there something different I should use? I have been researching but frankly I am starting to get confused. I am also a novice at doing this kind of project. Thanks in advance for your help. Yes, this product will work great. Also, if the grandchildren damage the wood somehow, simply sand out the damaged area and reapply this finish. It will blend in and match without any effort.

Hopefully, the grandkids will be kind. Can I spray lacquer over tried and true? This does not have to be food safe for the use intended.

Thank you. Tried and True is an oil-based product that soaks into the wood. Because of this, the surface will not shine or appear glossy. In order to appear glossy, micropores and crevasses needed to filled and made smooth so the surface reflects light. The best way to get a glossy finish is to apply several thin layers of lacquer.

You can apply lacquer over Tried and True Danish linseed only Oil without any problems. I have sprayed it over Tried and True original and have had good results for the most part. However, the beeswax can potentially repeal the lacquer. Here are a few comments that might help. You read that right. It is no joke. Some people keep a jar of water nearby and put the finish-soaked rags in the water. The problem with that is how do you dispose of the finish-water in a responsible way?

Sure Tried and True may be okay, but what about other oil finishes with metallic driers or other undesirable chemicals? My solution is to put the oily rags outside on an isolated paving stone, put a rock on them to hold them down. Leave the rags for several days until they are completely dry, then put them in the trash.

You can use gray 3M or gray other-brand abrasive pads in the place of steel wool. The abrasive pads look like kitchen cleaning scrub pads, only gray instead of green.

The green pads are too abrasive compared with the gray ones. Steel wool can leave bits of steel behind in the wood to rust and leave dark spots. The gray abrasive pads do not. I use both, but tend to favor the gray pads. If you buy steel wool, consider Liberon or Briwax brands of steel wool. They are oil-free, and less likely to stain or leave spots on your wood. You can buy the gray pads at Home Depot, Lowes, and other household hardware stores.

Woodworking stores sell them too. I found the Liberon steel wool at Rockler. Woodcraft sells Briwax steel wool. You can buy Tried and True finish in quart cans at Rockler and Woodcraft stores, and probably other regional and local woodworking stores.

You can find Rockler and Woodcraft stores in many states in the US. Rockler carries both Original and Varnish Oil. I know, because I bought them both at a Rockler store. The difference is subtle at best. Sometimes it is more about the texture, where finishes with beeswax seem to have a more natural feel. Some oil finishes tend to darken the wood more than others, but the difference is not that pronounced.

I have asked finishing experts and they do not understand why some products cost so much. Ultimately, it comes down to how much you buy into the hype of the expensive brands, the effort it takes to apply and burnish, in some cases , the number of coats required, the time it takes to cure, the safety factors, and personal preference. Thanks for your detailed input. However, the surface should be sanded with a sanding mesh to a uniform dullness or satin appearance.

Then, apply a small amount of satin CA polish with a paper towel Photo D , and buff until dry. Repeat with gloss polish for a gloss finish. General Finishes Water-Based Wood Turners Finish produces a rich amber tone that can be buffed to either a satin sheen or high gloss.

It is food-safe, durable, and acid resistant. It applies easily and cleans up with water. More good news: it lets you achieve an attractive surface with only one coat for sealing and successive coats for a deeper luster.

It is not seen as a filler for open-grain woods. Best Uses: Use this finish on salad bowls, platters, salt and pepper mills, and other utility items needing a durable finish. Application: With the lathe off, apply water-based finish with paper towels Photo A or brush it on with a foam brush. When applying multiple coats, the first application will dry in 30 to 45 minutes.

Apply additional coats in 30 minutes. The final finish requires five to seven days to cure to be food-safe. Gloss spray lacquer produces a glass-clear coating that goes on quickly. I prefer spraying over brushing. It dries fast and lets you reapply it in 30 minutes, with no sanding in between. I like gloss lacquer over satin for building depth and because it contains fewer solids. Plus, you can repair it with a wax remover, light sanding, and another coat.

Best Uses: Consider lacquer for small and large decorative turnings—vessels and other showy pieces. Downside: Lacquer is flammable, and its fumes can be a problem. Spray only in well-ventilated areas and away from heat sources. Application: Sand small hollow forms and similar decorative turnings through grit sandpaper before applying as many as five coats of gloss lacquer.

Rotate the turning for an even coat all around. Once dry, use steel wool with clear Briwax to level the surface Photo B. Buffing with a buffing wheel and carnauba wax will bring out the shine.

For a satin finish, skip the steel wool and wax and apply a final coat of satin lacquer finish. Watco Penetrating Danish Oil, Natural, is a blend of boiled linseed oil and varnish that penetrates, seals, and adds a low luster. While it comes in several shades, such as natural, walnut, cherry, and golden oak, I find that natural is the obvious choice for all woods. It applies easily, though it takes time to achieve the desired result.

The final finish is relatively soft, somewhat durable, and repairs quickly. And while it dries slowly, it produces a warm amber tone.

Best Uses: Watco Penetrating Danish Oil works well for general turnings and furniture such as the stool legs and seat shown below. Downside: Watco Penetrating Danish Oil dries slowly, Woodcraft Salad Bowl Finish Line typically taking several hours. In fact, I like to wait 24 hours before reapplication. Take care to properly dispose of your oily paper towels to avoid a spontaneous combustion fire. The product results in a satin sheen only. Application: With the lathe off, wipe on a full wet coat of oil using a paper towel Photo A , and allow it to penetrate into the wood for 15 to 20 minutes.

Then wipe off the excess and burnish it into the wood with a dry paper towel. This is not the same as burnishing raw wood with sandpaper. Allow the coat to dry 24 hours or more, and then reapply to build three to five coats over the course of several days or weeks. When the piece is completely cured again, 24 hours after the final coat , apply a coat of wax using steel wool Photo B. Finally, buff the wood surfaces to achieve a pleasing satin sheen. One popular category used to finish the pepper and salt mills on page 38 includes friction finishes such as Hut Crystal Coat and Mylands High Build Friction Polish.

When correctly applied, the end result is a glowing high-gloss, one-coat finish executed in record time. Downside: Because of its alcohol base, oils from your hands can degrade a friction finish over time. Other ingredients include petroleum distillates, shellac, and waxes, making the finish highly flammable.

Its fumes can irritate. To be safe, ventilate the work area, and stay away from any heat source. Application: Sand surfaces to grit or higher. Then, shake the bottle and add a few drops to a paper towel. With the lathe turned off, wipe the friction finish on the turning. Then, with the turned lathe on, hold a paper towel to the turning with moderate pressure.

I found a 16 oz. It is colorless, odorless, tasteless, and totally inert. It goes on easily, can be applied on or off the lathe, and is easy to repair. Add beeswax to it to add more protection and sheen, but not on art objects. It collects dust. Reapply as needed.

Best Uses: I use the mineral oil and wax combo for honey dippers, spurtles stirring sticks , salad bowls, baby rattles, and other utility items. Downside: This finish offers only low water resistance. It needs regular recoats and can collect dust. Expect a low luster only. Application: Apply mineral oil with the lathe running at a low speed Photo A.

A plastic pump bottle like the ones used for liquid soap makes a great dispenser for your oil. Use paper towels to make a pad, and pump a squirt or two of oil on it. Blot the oil to avoid a puddle on the pad as the spinning object will sling the liquid onto you and everything in the shop.

As you apply the oil, burnish it into the spinning wood. The addition of beeswax over the mineral oil adds luster and a little more protection. Then take a block of beeswax and apply it directly Photo B. Use a dry paper towel to buff the surface to a soft, fragrant finish.

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