I've used this oil on my Costco hardwood flooringand although it took a while and I had to do the watco oil directions section by section, it looks absolutely gorgeous! I staring by vacuuming the watco oil directions with shop-vac. Thanks for the tip on evaporation, good to know! We applied Danish Oil liberally until the block stopped watxo the oil. Reserve Yours Today.

I staring by vacuuming the piece with shop-vac. Then, I dust the entire piece a micro-fiber tack cloth to remove any remaining dust. Try to apply the finish in a relative dust free environment i. This finish should also be applied at room temperature and in a well ventilated area -it will smell. I find it easiest to apply this finish by first transferring some into an old yoghurt container to work out of. Liberally apply the finish over the whole work piece using a brush or rag.

You can put on a lot, flooding the surface. After 30 minutes, come back to the piece and reapply finish, particularly to areas where all the finish has been soaked in. For a typical piece of furniture I will repeat this process to build up 2 or 3 coats. Additional coats will deepen the shine and increase protection. Once I am satisfied with the number of coats, I will wait 15 minutes, then wipe the surface of the piece completely dry making sure there are no drips or pools of finish.

I Watco Danish Oil Application Journal will touch the finish with my fingertips - it should feel oily but dry and smooth. You must now safely dispose of the oily rag. Improperly disposed oily rags can spontaneously combust. Hang them outside to dry in a safe area or spread them out flat. They should not be in a pile. Once they cure, the cloth will be hard and brittle and you can throw them out.

Question 2 years ago on Introduction. Can I soak new cut plywood scroll saw pieces in Danish oil overnight? Or, dipping it Watco Danish Oil Finish Colors 03 in a tray for 30 minutes?

Question 3 years ago on Introduction. Hello and thanks for the video information. My question is I noticed that you did not sand between coats, is it necessary or not? I am making an unfinished acacia wood butcher block, L-shaped bench for my breakfast nook that will be built-in.

We want something to seal it with something that does not change the color much, yellow like polyurethane and not a glossy finish.

We would like to keep it as close as we can to its natural color, maybe a matte or satin finish. We will sand and seal the wood prior to building in a shop, and prefer not to do much sanding in our home now and in the future. We would like some advice Thank you so much for your time! To avoid premature evaporation, I decant the oil into smaller bottles, in which I aim to have as little air as possible.

A hassle, but before I switched to this method, I lost half a tinfull due to over-long air contact. Reply 5 years ago on Introduction. Thanks for the comment. The process I described is commonly called the 'one day' finish Watco Danish Oil Fumes - flood it one and come back reapply successive coats in the same day, then wiping it off.

Another way to do it is to wipe on a thin coat, then come back the next day in 8 Watco Oil Colors Jp hours or whatever and do another thin coat.

In my experience both work well. I don't generally put finish back in the can - I try to one take out a bit at a time to make sure I'm not wasting any.

As with any coating, surface preparation is extremely important in getting a satisfactory end result. Best results are usually achieved on new wood, sanded as necessary, and finished along the grain.

Danish Oil may be applied to previously oiled surfaces. On previously stained or dyed surfaces it is advisable to test a small area first to make sure that the Danish Oil will produce the desired result.

Varnished, shellaced, lacquered or heavily stained wood will usually present a surface barrier to absorption of the Danish Oil, and will need to be removed as necessary with a proprietary paint stripper. Waxed finishes, and all dirt and grease, should be removed with white spirit on a rag using vigorous agitation. For exterior use any rotten wood should be cut out and repaired prior to use of Danish Oil. To ensure proper drying the temperature should be above 10 Degrees C and Danish Oil should not be applied in damp conditions.

Do not apply in direct sunlight. This method allows Danish Oil to be completely applied during the course of a single day, and the wood to be ready to use after 48 hours. Above are two oak chopping blocks for illustration, prepared for oiling by sanding with 80 grit sandpaper. After another 20 minutes we returned and applied more Danish Oil.

By this stage the oil was not soaking in very much and the block was looking really wet, with an obvious coating of oil on the surface:. After another 20 minutes we returned and removed all the remaining Danish Oil from the surface with a clean rag:.

The board was left for one hour and then wiped over again to remove any oil that might have exuded back out of the pores of the wood. If there were any obvious dry areas we would have used more oil on just those areas at this stage. After another hour we wiped the board again, although there were no obvious signs of surface oil at this stage and the board was dry to the touch, with a pleasant low sheen finish.

The board was left at room temperature for 48 hours before it was used to allow the Danish oil to cure. The particles should then be removed with a very fine grade wire wool oooo grade. The performance of Danish Oil will continue to improve naturally for a week or two after application.

We recommend that wood should not be subject to heavy use, and any water or other spills should be wiped off immediately during this time.

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