О сервисе Прессе Правообладателям Связаться с нами Авторам Рекламодателям. Lathe tools are spinning machines that are used for sanding, knurling, cutting as well as sharpening. A jig is use to control any items that requires sharpening, sanding, cutting and knurling. For lathe tools: making a tool sharpening jig sounds like a lot of hard work and it certainly does require a lot of work, nevertheless it can still be done. Step 1 – Constructing the Base. First, draw and drill holes on all four corners of the metal plate. Sharpening Setup. Keeping a few accessories close to your lathe will encourage you to keep an edge on your tools. If you don’t already own these items, it’s time to stock up. Slow-speed grinder (6" or 8" wheel).  Sharpening a spindle gouge requires more practice than other tools because the tool is rolled against the grinding wheel while simultaneously being slid up higher on the wheel to grind the wings. Unlike a basic gouge, you cannot simply set the tool on the rest. To facilitate this two-step process, I set my resting hand on the V-rest as shown above left.  Adjust the jig’s leg per the manufacturer’s instructions, set it in the V-rest and then slide the rest out so that the center of the bevel rests on the center of the wheel. Now, turn the grinder on, and lower the tool onto the wheel.

Clair and was impressed by his clear description of cutting angles and what they do in single point cutting tools. Clair worked in industry optimizing design and use of lathe bits during the transition from HSS to carbide so he covers both areas well.

The basic concepts for both materials are the same, where the cutting bit material's strength and toughness change the design details required for best performance. This foray into tool grinding theory was educational but the resulting bits cut too well, so well they chattered in the 7x12 and the Rockwell 10".

Chatter was a problem on both machines during deep cuts with high feed rate until I limited the feed rate by reducing the side relief Sharpening Lathe Tools Without Jig Review see below and reduced the width of the cutting section. I expect these tool designs work particularly well on large, rigid machines in good condition smaller side relief on my limber machines helps me avoid the chatter regime. The synopsis below of St. Clair's material provides some useful insight on how and why cutting angles are chosen.

Update: As time goes on I find I'm using the St. While the tangential remains my most used tool, the St. Clair tools are the next most used lathe tools in my shop, especially for roughing. Ease of resharpening using a jig is a major factor for both the tangential and St. Clair tools - makes them work predictably, much like an insert. In the home shop "best" tool performance is hard to quantify because we generally don't repeat an operation long enough to wear a tool out, whereas sharpening lathe tools without jig reaction life was a major concern for St.

Tool life, in the form of infrequent sharpening, is important but ease of resharpening and initially grinding the tool are also important.

What I sharpening lathe tools without jig reaction from the book is that most tool parameters need not be optimum to work reasonably well although some angles may need to be selected appropriately depending on the material, e. After reading this book twice I made a very simple grinding jig to produce bits with angles appropriate for cutting steel. This jig is easy to build and makes it quick and easy for beginners and experts to grind bits per St.

Clair's design. These are bits for quickly removing material as well as bits for improving the finish after roughing. This jig is useful for common external roughing and finishing bits, not form tools or boring bars.

The bits produced should be oriented exactly perpendicular to the work so a QCTP that accomplishes this is helpful; a QCTP clamping to a cylinder will require careful adjustment for each tool change so cylindrical QCTPs need extra attention. The key to easy resharpening is making it easy to reproduce the angles initially ground into the bit, exactly what the jig accomplishes. The jig described produces bits which cut while moving to the left but it is straightforward to build a similar jig for bits which cut going the other way.

Surprisingly little grinding is required for bits produced with this jig so it doesn't take long to make them initially and even less time to resharpen -- I ground a bit from a blank in under 3 minutes. This simple jig allows new users to grind bits that work well without spending a lot of time understanding the various angles. I've found I'm using these bits more, especially for roughing, as time goes on. The following is a brief synopsis of terminology and concepts sharpening lathe tools without jig reaction the book to help understand the reasoning behind St.

Clair's tool design. If you'd like more info on the why's and wherefore's, the book is an excellent source and very readable but difficult to find and expensive to buy. Video explaining similar terminology. The relief angle is the angle below each cutting edge; without a relief angle the tool would simply rub on the work rather than cut. In soft materials a larger relief angle can be used to allow faster cutting.

A common lathe bit approaches the work from the right so the left edge must be relieved as well as the front of the bit. The SCE may be perpendicular to the work leftmost tool in picture or angled to the right; this is called the SCE angle.

SCE joins the end cutting edge sometimes via a radius and then the tool end angles away from the work. This is called the end cutting edge angle. The final point on the end of the tool which touches the work just before the end relief angle is called the "finishing point" sharpening lathe tools without jig reaction the finish left on the work depends on this point.

Cutting forces on the tool are large so to minimize wear and damage to the cutting edges they need as much support as possible from the surrounding tool material, especially the finishing point.

A radius on this sharp corner would be stronger and would wear less. However, radius corners are more prone to produce sharpening lathe tools without jig reaction. Therefore, St. To further protect the important finishing point, a smaller angle can be used just prior to the finishing point to further thin the chip, providing even more protection for the finishing point.

In addition to reducing wear on the finishing point this shallow angle improves the resulting finish. This is effectively a dual tool with a roughing section followed by a finishing section. I've seen 3 separate chips, each going in a different direction, from this type of tool - sharpening lathe tools without jig reaction peculiar but works fine.

The width of this section should be 1. Again, if too wide it can induce chatter. Cutting forces are always perpendicular to the cutting edge so the first tool shown has all the force along the axis of the work. By angling the SCE some force is perpendicular to the work axis so it takes up any slack in the cross feed - this is often an important aid to minimizing chatter in machines that have a bit of backlash The top of the tools shown above have been left flat: no side rake or back rake.

While it is commonly thought that back rake reduces power required, St. Clair cites tests showing this not to be the case. Mainly, he sharpening lathe tools without jig reaction back rake for chip control. Side rake does reduce power required plus it can be used to control chip direction - the chip effectively flows down hill.

The chip naturally flows perpendicular to the cutting edge so some side rake may be helpful to counter this in controlling chip direction. Back rake is generally used in combination with side rake to control sharpening lathe tools without jig reaction direction and type sharpening lathe tools without jig reaction chip produced. Often, it is used to produce a chip breaker by angling the chip down so when it comes to the resulting rise it doubles back on itself causing the chip to break.

If the chip coils and moves along the depression then side rake sharpening lathe tools without jig reaction be added to slow its progress so it does coil into itself and break. On brass, negative back rake may be used to avoid self-feeding.

When a tool with back rake is resharpened the cutting point becomes lower so after several resharpening cycles it is so low it must be ground away and you start over; this uses Sharpening lathe tools without jig reaction up faster and requires more grinding time so back rake is used only when required.

The chip, which normally flows perpendicularly from the cutting edge, runs into this rise which either bends it enough to break it or causes sharpening lathe tools without jig reaction to coil onto itself and break. Adjust side rake of the shelf if necessary. The picture at right shows a chip breaker, where the finishing point shows a little wear. Tool height should be set to put the finishing point on center.

When side rake is used the leading edge of the tool won't be on center; because of the small edge angles on the bit it takes some effort to see and adjust the height properly. Improper height will cause poorer tool performance so take the time to get this right. The aluminum pieces are set at the angles written on them in the picture: 30, 10, and -5 degrees. The screws are cut off and sanded flush on the bottom. This jig isn't from the book -- it's my simplistic interpretation to implement the book's suggestions easily.

Bits produced with this jig all look similar i. The grinder must provide a guide to keep the jig oriented so its long side is parallel to the wheel axis, as shown in the first picture where the miter is used for alignment.

An alternative for grinders that don't have a miter is shown below. To set the table, make the simple guide suggested by Frank Dorion and shown in the picture.

The table is adjusted so the end of this scribed line is touching the wheel - put a light behind the guide to make the tangent point easily visible.

To grind a new bit, it is oriented so the angle on its end has the longest part uppermost to minimize material removal. The picture at the beginning of this section shows the result after grinding when bits are oriented as described. Other orientations sharpening lathe tools without jig reaction work, you just have to grind more HSS away. The steep clearance angle means little HSS need be removed when sharpening the cutting edge -- this minimizes heating of the cutting edge while grinding which can reduce hardness.

The steeper clearance angle can be ground quickly with little concern for heating because it is fairly far from the cutting edge so it won't affect the HSS characteristics. Little material is removed so this doesn't take long. The smaller SCE relief limits the feed rate by rubbing so don't use auto-feed with this approach. It is easy to come back to any of the jig angles if more needs to be removed since the jig ensures alignment.

If this is a rectangular cutter you're done unless chip control is desired. Based on my later experiments less than 8 degree relief on the side of the tool should reduce or eliminate chatter; try it and adjust as sharpening lathe tools without jig reaction for your lathe if chatter occurs on deep cuts. If this section is too wide the tool will chatter in some applications. This land is sharpening lathe tools without jig reaction on the leftmost bit in this picture.

Again, this should be very narrow to avoid chatter. The finishing cutter should be used to take small cuts of only a couple thou, mainly it is used to produce a nicely finished surface.

Even without chip control on many materials this bit produces tiny short chips rather than long strings. As a slacker, I don't hone the front of these tools, just the top.

Then, this area is held against the side of the wheel to flatten it by grinding only the right side of the tool. This will leave the top flat and at about 10 degrees. This flat area is easy to hone to a polished finish on carbide paper. A polished finish makes it more diffult for material to stick to the top forming a built up edge especially if cutting lubricant is used while turning.

The picture at right shows my ancient Baldor grinder, modified by bolting a plate to its cast iron rest and then adding a strip on that plate to guide the St. Clair jig - so it is possible to easily adapt grinders that don't have a miter to work with this jig. I tested these bits without adding chip control angles to get a feel for how they work.

So, I use two of the 4 variations on St.

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