Thanks again…. I like this finish I put it on most of my bowls I turn. Wood has anti-bacterial properties and is safe for What Is Salad Bowl Finish Queen food, safer than some other materials. Finesse is success!! I keep a recycled salsa jar on my bench with a qqueen three-inch square patch from an old t-shirt as an applicator.

I do this times with a light sanding in between each session. You are now starting to develop a film. One last wipe with a clean cloth and call it DONE. So how does a board like this fare in the kitchen? There are two main concerns here: safety and maintenance.

A butcher block treated this way will resist water all day long. In fact, on my boards, water tends to evaporate faster than it absorbs. Mineral oil boards will actually take on moisture much more readily. Adding wax to your mineral oil can certainly help in this area if thats the route you want to go.

Now the fact that it is so water resistant is a major plus in terms of sanitation. Remember that the bacteria like the moisture. So the less moisture in the board, the better. So how about knife marks?

Well like with any board, knife marks will happen. So what happens to my boards? They get knicked up. They get dulled a little more in the middle where the most action occurs.

But after about 18 straight months of usage, my cutting board looks pretty darn good. Check out the pics below. Now if there were a thick film on that board and that film were to crack, the moisture would certainly seep in and create problems. In fact after 18 months of that type of abuse you would probably expect the finish to start flaking off or exhibit more physical damage than what you see.

But when a knife produces a deep cut on my board, it just cuts into varnish-filled pores. There is nothing to flake off. And I suspect that in another month or so, I will take the board back in the shop, give the top a nice thorough sanding, reapply a light coat or two of diluted varnish monitoring how much it takes up , and the board will look brand new.

What kind of maintenance does a mineral oil board require? Monthly, and possibly more frequently if used heavily. I am by no means trying to discourage people from using mineral oil. After all, its the classic cutting board finish.

Use whatever floats your boat. Personally, I have had great success with my method and will continue to use it. The feedback from other folks who have tried it has been great as well. I think its safer, easier, and looks better. Of course my results are not backed by scientific tests. If I still worked in a lab I might be able to test it properly.

Finishing is, and probably always will be, one of the most over-complicated and misunderstood areas of woodworking. I only wish there were more scientific resources out there so that issues like this can be resolved effectively without speculation. Gather as much information as possible from your trusted resources and then add the final ingredient: YOUR experience, opinions, and common sense. The Wood Whisperer is proudly sponsored by brands that Marc trusts. Thank you for making this possible.

All rights reserved. Designed and developed by Underscorefunk Design. This site uses affiliate links. Given this, please assume that any links leading you to products or services are affiliate links that we will receive compensation from. However, there are millions of products and services on the web, and I only promote those products or services that I would use personally. The Wood Whisperer abides by word of mouth marketing standards and holds integrity in the highest regard.

Should I ever be compensated to write, I will make full disclosure. I always give honest opinions, findings, and experiences on products. The views and opinions expressed on this blog are purely our own. Any product claim, statistic, quote or other representation about a product or service should be verified with the manufacturer, provider or party in question. Someone even said that it is the consistency of General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish Queen honey. Does it flow on evenly and easily or is it thick and sticky?

I need something that I can get into nooks, crannies, and crevices and then be able to wipe off the excess. Also, I made up my own beeswax and stand oil heated linseed oil wood finish, as recommended by Chris Schwarz…1 part beeswax to 4 parts stand oil. It gives a nice finish on flat pieces of wood, but is too hard and stiff for my needs detail work. Have you ever worked with or made this type of finish and if so how could I thin it down and soften it to make it more suitable to my needs without introducing turpentine or another solvent?

Again, thanks for a great article and any advice you could give would be greatly appreciated. Jim Hipp. See this video of mine to view the application. If you are seeing the product on the wood, you have applied enough. Then you wipe any thick areas off after an hour.

And after hours come back and buff it out with a clean cloth. I use this product on delicate thin turned pieces and it works great. Thanks Kent…. From the video, it looks like this finish is probably a good consistency for my carvings. Thanks again….. I use them interchangeably and they blend perfectly. The finish will add a bit of warm color to the wood.

My son in law is making a small table for my grandchildren to eat on when they are at my house. I need something to put on the wood to keep it looking nice in the face of, well, grandchildren eating and playing on it!

Will this product work or is there something different I should use? I have been researching but frankly I am starting to get confused. I am also a novice at doing this kind of project.

Thanks in advance for your help. Yes, this product will work great. Also, if the grandchildren damage the wood somehow, simply sand out the damaged area and reapply this finish.

It will blend in and match without any effort. Hopefully, the grandkids will be kind. Can I spray lacquer over tried and true? This does not have to be food safe for the use intended. Thank you. Tried and True is an oil-based product that soaks into the wood. Because of this, the surface will not shine or appear glossy. In order to appear glossy, micropores and crevasses needed to filled and made smooth so the surface reflects light.

The best way to get a glossy finish is to apply several thin layers of lacquer. You can apply lacquer over Tried and True Danish linseed only Oil without any problems. I have sprayed it over Tried and True original and have had good results for the most part. However, the beeswax can potentially repeal the lacquer.

Here are a few comments that might help. You read that right. It is no joke. Some people keep a jar of water nearby and put the finish-soaked rags in the water. The problem with that is how do you dispose of the finish-water in a responsible way? Sure Tried and True may be okay, but what about other oil finishes with metallic driers or other undesirable chemicals?

My solution is to put the oily rags outside on an isolated paving stone, put a rock on them to hold them down. Leave Mohawk Salad Bowl Finish 08 the rags for several days until they are completely dry, then put them in the trash.

You can use gray 3M or gray other-brand abrasive pads in the place of steel wool. The abrasive pads look like kitchen cleaning scrub pads, only gray instead of green.

The green pads are too abrasive compared with the gray ones. Steel wool can leave bits of steel behind in the wood to rust and leave dark spots. The gray abrasive pads do not. I use both, but tend to favor the gray pads. If you buy steel wool, consider Liberon or Briwax brands of steel wool.

They are oil-free, and less likely to stain or leave spots on your wood. You can buy the gray pads at Home Depot, Lowes, and other household hardware stores. Woodworking stores sell them too. I found the Liberon steel wool at Rockler. Woodcraft sells Briwax steel wool. You can buy Tried and True finish in quart cans at Rockler and Woodcraft stores, and probably other regional and local woodworking stores. You can find Rockler and Woodcraft stores in many states in the US.

Rockler carries both Original and Varnish Oil. I know, because I bought them both at a Rockler store. The difference is subtle at best. Sometimes it is more about the texture, where finishes with beeswax seem to have a more natural feel. Some oil finishes tend to darken the wood more than others, but the difference is not that pronounced. I have asked finishing experts and they do not understand why some products cost so much.

Ultimately, it comes down to how much you buy into the hype of the expensive brands, the effort it takes to apply and burnish, in some cases , the number of coats required, the time it takes to cure, the safety factors, and personal preference.

Thanks for your detailed input. Yes, I do think it is the beeswax texture that makes the Tried and True Original Finish my favorite as well.

What would recommend using to make it as water resistant or waterproof as possible? Thanks Kim. There are resin products made by West Marine that come highly recommended. Although I have not used them myself yet, I would consider them to be best suited for your project. Let me know if this helps.

Great article! I have been using Tried and True Original Wood Finish and also Tried and True Danish Oil either together or alone for the past 6 months and they both provide a great finish. Simple and clean to use and virtually no clean up. The product is available in Canada through Lee Valley Tools. Hi I wanted to use it for copper plate to protect from tarnish especially in rainy seasons. I am in Delhi India where pollution is high affecting copper utensils , and let me know if anything available in India or any sample I can get in India.

Thanks Dave. Thanks for writing. Hi, great article. I would like to know if this finish will seal end-grain turned cups?

Would hot drinks melt the seal? End grain cups are a challenge to seal because of the grain direction. Tried and True also makes a natural Varnish product which includes pine resins. I would think that might work better.

I would imagine the liquid will dissolve or breakdown the finish. Experiment and find out. And like every turning project, the wood species will play a major factor as well. The finish of Tried and True Original is not a high-gloss shine. Experiment and see if it works.

Let me know what you find. Thanksfor yourmessage concerning food dafe fonish. Have you heard otherwise? I too have heard that finishes once dry can be food safe. However, my concern is the toxicity of the finishes before they dry and the assumption that they become food safe just by drying. Also, what happens when finishes are chipped and allow moisture and bacteria to form under and around the cracks?

Hospitalization will most likely not be the problem. The potential issue is health conditions that are formed or aggravated by exposure to toxic substances. These will be much more subtle and potentially not be obviously linked to the source.

Thanks for leaving your comment. I am sharing your article on my pinterest so word spreads. Thanks for your comment, Charlie. Great article Kent. I really hate wasting costly finishes. It really hurts to toss it. Tried and True does not skin over. When it gets cold, they will congeal a bit but they return to fluid when it gets warmer. This also keeps the larger amount of the Tried and True protected from contaminants, etc.

Never thought about it for my bowls. And yes, it works great on bowls. Follow the directions, especially for the initial coat, 24 hours dry time and burnishing. While that will work, following the steps makes a big improvement in the final results! I am making a tea mug out of olive and sealed a couple of cracks with a mixture of sawdust and CA glue. It sounds like the Tried and True is exactly what I am needing to seal the wood safely.

The curing time should be on the bottle of CA. If not, contact the manufacturer with your question just to be sure.

Kent, I have been unable to get the shine you have achieved after two coats of Tried and True and more effort with steel wool than I wanted to give. Do you power buff the stuff? I want some sheen. What type of wood are your using and how dry is it? The key is to put only a very thin layer on and let it sit for one hour, then wipe it off.

After 24 hours then burnish the surface with steel wool. The sheen can be quite rich but is not a gloss. It is more of a satin finish. Thanks for sharing. Would you recommend this for wooden spoons as well? I read somewhere that spoons need to be soaked first. Can you soak with linseed oil, and then finish with the Tried and True Original?

Yes, this would work great for spoons. You can also use just the linseed oil, called Tried and True Danish Oil. This can be applied repeatedly until the wood it saturated and then you can apply a final coat of Tried and True with Beeswax. Thank you for this article! I am looking to turn a small table into a large butcher block and prep surface.

I would suggest emailing the manufacturer to confirm [email protected] and mention you heard about there product here. I read some reviews on the selling site that some people found the odor very strong and objectionable. How would you describe the odor and how long does it linger in your shop after applying the material?

I work in our attached garage and my wife says anything I am using there can be smelled in the house. I guess everyone smells differently. Would this work on a wood table that I want to refurbish as a bread bakers bench? Also… there is one crack in the table top that I would like to fill. What compound would you recommend that would also be compatible with the oil and the intended purpose for the table?

Thanks for any info. Yes, this finish will work well for such a table. I would use very fine sawdust from the same wood, if possible and combine that with regular yellow wood glue to fill the crack. You can actually begin to sand the mixture, with a fine or sandpaper, as soon as it is pressed into the crack. Let the area dry and sand completely smooth. Then apply the Tried and True finish as directed.

I am just getting interested in learning how to turn wood. I am in North Carolina. Is there a WoodTurners Association? I need to find a class???? Need some direction. Your information has been most helpful. Have already ordered my Tried and True. Look forward to hearing from you. Check out their website for more details. I have yet to get through even a small can of Salad Bowl finish General Finishes before it becomes unusable. Tried and True does not go bad to my knowledge.

I have had a small amount in the jar get gummy, but I think that was due to cold, and it returned to normal once warmed. Interesting fact. Also be sure to read this article about Salad Bowl Finish.

Username or Email Address. Remember Me. Brian, Thanks for writing and good question. Luke, It might work, but it will depend on the type and grain of the wood being used. Hello Collette, I would recommend not to use the poly. All the best to you, Kent. Thank you and welcome! Andrea, Thanks for writing and good question. I would experiment with a sample like you mentioned.

That is the only way to truly know. All the best, Kent. Thanks, Kent. Thanks, Nick. Hey Nick, Thanks for the question. I hope that helps. Elisa, Thanks for writing. Luke, Sounds good. Let me know what you think. Hello James, Thanks for the question.

Thanks again, Kent. James, Thanks for your question. Hello Karen, Yes, this product will work great. LOL Thanks for the question, Kent. Hello Brian, Tried and True is an oil-based product that soaks into the wood. And the lacquer is food safe once it cures. Emory, Thanks for your detailed input. Enjoy and Happy Turning, Kent. Hello Dave, Thanks for writing.

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