I can use it on serving pieces as well as the bowls. Read more about Finishes and Finishing. If the wood bowl surface looks salad bowl finish clear water, just buff it with a clean lint-free cloth to polish the bowl surface. Get it as soon as Wed, Mar Question: How would swlad work on carved wooden spoons that are actually intended to be used regularly for serving food? Skip to main content of over 1, results for "salad bowl oil finish".

The problem with that is how do you dispose of the finish-water in a responsible way? Sure Tried and True may be okay, but what about other oil finishes with metallic driers or other undesirable chemicals? My solution is to put the oily rags outside on an isolated paving stone, put a rock on them to hold them down. Leave the rags for several days until they are completely dry, then put them in the trash.

You can use gray 3M or gray other-brand abrasive pads in the place of steel wool. The abrasive pads look like kitchen cleaning scrub pads, only gray instead of green. The green pads are too abrasive compared with the gray ones. Steel wool can leave bits of steel behind in the wood to rust and leave dark spots. The gray abrasive pads do not. I use both, but tend to favor the gray pads. If you buy steel wool, consider Liberon or Briwax brands of steel wool. They are oil-free, and less likely to stain or leave spots on your wood.

You can buy the gray pads at Home Depot, Lowes, and other household hardware stores. Woodworking stores sell them too. I found the Liberon steel wool at Rockler. Woodcraft sells Briwax steel wool. You can buy Tried and True finish in quart cans at Rockler and Woodcraft stores, and probably other regional and local woodworking stores.

You can find Rockler and Woodcraft stores in many states in the US. Rockler carries both Original and Varnish Oil. I know, because I bought them both at a Rockler store. The difference is subtle at best. Sometimes it is more about the texture, where finishes with beeswax seem to have a more natural feel. Some oil finishes tend to darken the wood more than others, but the difference is not that pronounced. I have asked finishing experts and they do not understand why some products cost so much.

Ultimately, it comes down to how much you buy into the hype of the expensive brands, the effort it takes to apply and burnish, in some cases , the number of coats required, the time it takes to cure, the safety factors, and personal preference.

Thanks for your detailed input. Yes, I do think it is the beeswax texture that makes the Tried and True Original Finish my favorite as well. What would recommend using to make it as water resistant or waterproof as possible? Thanks Kim. There are resin products made by West Marine that come highly recommended. Although I have not used them myself yet, I would consider them to be best suited for your project. Let me know if this helps. Great article! I have been using Tried and True Original Wood Finish and also Tried and True Danish Oil either together or alone for the past 6 months and they both provide a great finish.

Simple and clean to use and virtually no clean up. The product is available in Canada through Lee Valley Tools. Hi I wanted to use it for copper plate to protect from tarnish especially in rainy seasons. I am in Delhi India where pollution is high affecting copper utensils , and let me know if anything available in India or any sample I can get in India.

Thanks Dave. Thanks for writing. Hi, great article. I would like to know if this finish will seal end-grain turned cups? Would hot drinks melt the seal? End grain cups are a challenge to seal because of the grain direction. Tried and True also makes a natural Varnish product which includes pine resins. I would think that might work better. I would imagine the liquid will dissolve or breakdown the finish.

Experiment and find out. And like every turning project, the wood species will play a major factor as well. The finish of Tried and True Original is not a high-gloss shine. Experiment and see if it works. Let me know what you find. Thanksfor yourmessage concerning food dafe fonish.

Have you heard otherwise? I too have heard that finishes once dry can be food safe. However, my concern is the toxicity of the finishes before they dry and the assumption that they become food safe just by drying.

Also, what happens when finishes are chipped and allow moisture and bacteria to form under and around the cracks? Hospitalization will most likely not be the problem. The potential issue is health conditions that are formed or aggravated by exposure to toxic substances. These will be much more subtle and potentially not be obviously linked to the source. Thanks for leaving your comment. I am sharing your article on my pinterest so word spreads. Thanks for your comment, Charlie. Great article Kent.

I really hate wasting costly finishes. It really hurts to toss it. Tried and True does not skin over. When it gets cold, they will congeal a bit but they return to fluid when it gets warmer. This also keeps the larger amount of the Tried and True protected from contaminants, etc.

Never thought about it for my bowls. And yes, it works great on bowls. Follow the directions, especially for the initial coat, 24 hours Fusion Salad Bowl Finish 72 dry time and burnishing. While that will work, following the steps makes a big improvement in the final results!

I am making a tea mug out of olive and sealed a couple of cracks with a mixture of sawdust and CA glue. It sounds like the Tried and True is exactly what I am needing to seal the wood safely.

The curing time should be on the bottle of CA. If not, contact the manufacturer with your question just to be sure. Kent, I have been unable to get the shine you have achieved after two coats of Tried and True and more effort with steel wool than I wanted to give.

Do you power buff the stuff? I want some sheen. What type of wood are your using and how dry is it? The key is to put only a very thin layer on and let it sit for one hour, then wipe it off. After 24 hours then burnish the surface with steel wool. The sheen can be quite rich but is not a gloss. It is more of a satin finish. Thanks for sharing. Would you recommend this for wooden spoons as well?

I read somewhere that spoons need to be soaked first. Can you soak with linseed oil, and then finish with the Tried and True Original? Yes, this would work great for spoons. You can also use just the linseed oil, called Tried and True Danish Oil. This can be applied repeatedly until the wood it saturated and then you can apply a final coat of Tried and True with Beeswax.

Thank you for this article! I am looking to turn a Salad Bowl Finish Clear Game small table into a large butcher block and prep surface. I would suggest emailing the manufacturer to confirm [email protected] and mention you heard about there product here. I read some reviews on the selling site that some people found the odor very strong and objectionable. How would you describe the odor and how long does it linger in your shop after applying the material? I work in our attached garage and my wife says anything I am using there can be smelled in the house.

I guess everyone smells differently. Would this work on a wood table that I want to refurbish as a bread bakers bench? Also… there is one crack in the table top that I would like to fill. What compound would you recommend that would also be compatible with the oil and the intended purpose for the table? Thanks for any info. Yes, this finish will work well for such a table.

I would use very fine sawdust from the same wood, if possible and combine that with regular yellow wood glue to fill the crack. You can actually begin to sand the mixture, with a fine or sandpaper, as soon as it is pressed into the crack. Let the area dry and sand completely smooth. Then apply the Tried and True finish as directed.

I am just getting interested in learning how to turn wood. I am in North Carolina. Is there a WoodTurners Association? I need to find a class???? Need some direction. Your information has been most helpful. Have already ordered my Tried and True. Look Salad Bowl Finish Uk Tax forward to hearing from you. Check out their website for more details. I have yet to get through even a small can of Salad Bowl finish General Finishes before it becomes unusable. Tried and True does not go bad to my knowledge. I have had a small amount in the jar get gummy, but I think that was due to cold, and it returned to normal once warmed.

Interesting fact. Also be sure to read this article about Salad Bowl Finish. Username or Email Address. Remember Me. Brian, Thanks for writing and good question.

Luke, It might work, but it will depend on the type and grain of the wood being used. Hello Collette, I would recommend not to use the poly. All the best to you, Kent. Learn more about Amazon Prime. Get free delivery with Amazon Prime.

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I use it to restore restaurant cutting boards used daily and not well cared for by staff. The finish is highly durable and an occasional re-coat maintains the luster.

By Steven W. Rust on July 21, It wears well— FDA approved I believe— also I have used it on cutting boards but no as a cutting surface a serving surface and has outstanding gloss —spoons should wear well—several coats making sure dry times— saturating deep in the grain of the wood. By moemadebb on July 20, Never used on spoons but on cutting boards and after a year the finish is still good.

Safe to use and should be great on anything used around food. By Bjohns on July 20, ByPeteon October 13, Verified Purchase I really like the finish on my bowls after at least four coats of salad bowl finish they get a nice gloss to them you can just see the difference on them after each new layer put on.

Very good finish and easy to put on. I used multiple thin coats applied with a cloth to a large salad bowel and the results were excellent. It was best to let dry overnight before subsequent coats also used grit sanding between coats. It is a good product for applications that come in contact with food … Bought and used this a few times.

It is a good product for applications that come in contact with food or food utensils. There was a bit of a learning curve for me however. I have learned to spend extra time with the first coat. Keep wiping it on when you see it has absorbed into the wood, primarily end grain. I just keep wiping more on until it stays wet evenly, then do a final wipe to even it out. Leave extra time for the first coat to dry, I do both sides the first time. I sand with between coats and alternate sides, every 3 or 4 hours seems to work of me.

If I see a spot that still soaks in I just apply more until all is wet then do a final wipe to even out just like with the first coat. Last coat gets steel wool instead Mohawk Salad Bowl Finish 08 of sanding.

The more you put on the glossier it gets. Last coat is just a thin wipe. I am experimenting with using this as a sealer coat before using oil or wax. The sanding removes all finish on the surface. Really like this result.

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