See more ideas about knife, knife making, knife design.  How to Make Stylish Kiridashi/Utility Knife: I'm not a huge knife enthusiast but couple months ago I tried making my first knife. That was a very interesting and quite simple project. Having some spare time on a weekend I tought I should make try to make another one. Many woodworkers use a marking knife while transferring the shape of dovetails. Once sawn out, the shape is transferred to the pinboard. Here, this knife excels due to its edge’s geometry.  Their smaller models without a handle are used for accessing the very tight spots. Thus, it is evident that personal preference plays an important role in making you choose the best marking knife. Truly, it depends on you! This preference depends on what work you wish to do. The Japanese, Western, and Stanley models seem to be more adaptable than the spearpoint ones that are purely only for marking. For example, for veneering of any type, a single-bevel version is ideal. Make a Marking Knife. просмотр тыс. просмотров.  Создание ножа: сделайте маркировочный нож из пилы. He continues to blog and publish woodworking books at Lost Art Press. All the backs had to be lapped flat and polished, and the bevels had to be uee and honed. THEN I was expected to split the line when working. A larger blade angle cuts these corner marks without you having to radically angle your wrist. The ease of sharpening ranks somewhere in the middle. But more marking knife use model, rotating the knife limits how tight a space you get the tool into.

There are a lot of spear-point marking knives out there, and they are surprisingly different in the details.

Three of these knives are made by individual makers: the knives from Blue Spruce, Chester and Knight toolworks. The knives from Hock Tools come from a small company in Northern California. For me, marking knives are an item of some intimacy, and so I gravitate toward tools made by people you can call on the phone and talk to personally. After six months of shop time, I can say that I like all of these knives, though each has quirks and limitations.

This review should help you sort out the best one for you. Instead, here are the characteristics I have found to be more important:. It must be balanced, lightweight and keep your fingertips away from the sharp edges.

You should be able to control the knife without a death grip. This is an important difference. Larger blade angles are better for marking dados and tenons using a square because you want to deeply score both the near and far corners of your work to make it easy to carry the line around the workpiece.

A larger blade angle cuts these corner marks without you having to radically angle your wrist. I prefer the smaller-angle knives for dovetails, especially for transferring marks from the tail boards to the pin boards. The lower blade angle allows you to exert pressure in the right place. Thin knives allow you to sneak into tight spaces between the tails to mark out the pins. This benefit comes at a high price, however.

Thin knives are more difficult to sharpen because the cutting bevels are considerably smaller. The thin blade is reinforced by two brass ferrules, which make it rigid.

The middling blade angle makes it suited for both dovetail or bench work. And the tool is well-balanced, comfortable and a joy to wield. I even like the acorn on the end of the handle. Its only drawback is that its thin blade makes it the most difficult to sharpen.

The large blade angle makes it well suited for bench work; marking tenons, dados and anything else across the grain was a breeze for this tool. The ease of sharpening ranks somewhere in the middle. It and the Veritas were the easiest to sharpen because the blades of both are thick and wide with large bevels.

Unlike the other tools in this test, both Hock knives required significant setup. All the backs had to be lapped flat and polished, and the bevels had to be ground and honed. Luckily, this particular blade was heat treated well so there was little warping.

This makes it ideal for sneaking into tight places, though not as well as the thinnest tool, the Blue Spruce. Like its larger cousin, this tool needed significant setup.

Annoyingly, the tip of the tool was a bit warped, which resulted in a lot of lapping. Once I got the tool working, however, it performed well. The position of the flat side of the knife is very important to avoid heading off in the wrong direction or shaving chunks off the sides of your tails or steel layout tools….. This last disaster can be avoided if the heel of the cutting bevel is not lifted too far from the surface of the timber.

OK, you pushed me over the edge. Andy PS — My wife would like a application to join wivesagainstschwarz…. You missed one other step in the layout education of a woodworker, and that is the ballpoint pen.

Thanks for posting the tip, Chris. That way I can sneak up to the cut line with the router quite easily. I use that same white charcoal pencil to highlight my marked line in darker woods as you suggested with the lead pencil above. By Christopher Schwarz. In Chris Schwarz Blog , Joinery. This knife, I thought, might just be a mechanical pencil that never needed lead.

So slow down, and take it easy. Chris is the former editor of Popular Woodworking Magazine. He continues to blog and publish woodworking books at Lost Art Press. He's a hand-tool enthusiast though he uses power tools, too.

David Charlesworth October 13, Chris, Good stuff as usual! Eric October 11, Great article! Thanks for the tips. Andy October 11, Mike Lingenfelter October 9, The Village Carpenter October 9, Keep the tips coming, please. Ethan October 9, Thanks for the tip, Chris! Regards, Ethan.

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