The 21mm wide blade has a white steel 2 core hardened to Rc for good edge retention, and is laminated to a layer of marking knife lee valley design carbon steel. A simple, effective workshop staple. Keep me signed in. Cutting the Leee Channel A blind channel is cut on one of the strips to the exact width and depth of the blunt end of the blade so that the blade sits snugly and tightly in the channel. Spear-point marking knives are the most versatile version of this invaluable marking tool. Choose an option to view item availability.

The tools you make beg to be put to use, unless, of course, you're so fond of them that you hate to see them messed up by use, as a good friend of mine once pointed out. But I have a Marking Knife Lee Valley Online simple solution to that problem: make several copies in one go. And that was the approach I took with my latest tool-making project. I bought the scalpel, sold as a handle alone, and a box of 50 blades.

After trying it out, I liked the long, stiff blade that marks or cuts inside the corners of deep tails. With the spare blades in abundance, re-sharpening would not be a concern for years to come.

I decided to make my own handles to put some of those spare blades to good use. They make great gifts for friends too, whether the woodworking kind or not. The small size of the knife makes it an ideal project for using the hardwood from your scrap bin. I made mine out of cherry, mahogany and walnut blanks.

See the diagram for suggested measurements and adjust them to suit the blade you will use and the handle size you prefer. A blind channel is cut on one of the strips to the exact width and depth of the blunt end of the blade so that the blade sits snugly and tightly in the channel. A sloppy job will ruin the tight fit and spoil the strip.

You can cut the blind channel on a router table or table saw. Using the blade, I set the depth of cut on the table saw to just a hair less than the thickness of the blade. After making the first cut to establish one edge of the channel, I made a knife mark to locate the opposite edge and reset the fence to make the second cut.

I cut away the waste with multiple overlapping passes. To cut the channel to its final depth, I levelled the bottom with a router plane, an indispensable tool for precision work. To avoid overcutting and test cuts, set the teeth just shy of the thickness of the blade. Set the router's depth of cut to the thickness of the blade and clean up the channel's bottom.

Using the blade as a template, I located and drilled the bolt and nut through-holes together. After boring the recess holes for the bolt and nut, I reset the stop block and drilled the pin holes, a through-hole on the channelled strip and blind hole on the other. I cut a short pin from an aluminum rod to length and used cyanoacrylate CA glue to affix it to the through-hole. You can also use epoxy glue.

After the glue was cured, I hand sanded the pin flush. With the strips bolted together, I outlined the shape on the face of the handle. Since the grain ran in the same direction for the strips, I shaped them with a spokeshave without any worries of tear-out.

See the sidebar below for some tips on using a spokeshave. If you choose to use rasps for shaping, ease the edges with abrasives, a small plane or a cornering tool. Depending on the grain direction, use push or pull strokes to shape the profile on the handle from both ends. To maintain the angle of cut, slightly press down at the front to steady and guide the tool as you push or pull. I set the blade at a slight angle to the sole so I can vary the depth of cut by re-positioning the spokeshave rather than re-setting the cutter.

A dull blade, tricky grain or pressing too hard on the heel of the shave can cause chattering. Skew the shave slightly across the direction of travel to reduce this.

During your push or pull strokes, keep steady pressure on the toe without hesitation to the end; this is not the time for timidity. After dry fitting, I disassembled the knife and signed and dated the inside faces of the handle. I applied a few coats of boiled linseed oil on all surfaces of the handle with light sanding between coats. I cut a short section out of a spine clip to make the blade protector and completed the assembly. When the time comes to resharpen or replace the blade, the owner of one of your knives will be reminded of what an exquisite tool you have given him or her!

Now you're ready to hand out your gifts. But did you just make a batch of fine layout tools or a bunch of box cutters? It depends, of course, on whether you are giving the knife to a woodworker or someone who knows little about precision tools!

Charles Mak, now in retirement, is an enthusiastic hobby woodworker, teacher, writer and tipster. He formerly worked part-time at his local Lee Valley Tools store.

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Please try again. Please enter the email address associated with your Lee Valley account and we will send you an email with your username. An email has been sent. Please check your inbox. Yes, take me to Lee Valley Canada Cancel. Add to Cart Sold Out. Choose an option to view item availability. See Complete Product Line. Description Like pencils, there never seems to be a striking knife at hand when you need it.

Made in Canada. Excellent value in what should be a shop staple. Care And Use. Previous Next. Material: Choose an option. Length: Choose an option.

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