Always up for eoodworking or help! Basically make the spear-shaped angle more shallow. For this build, you will need : High carbon steel : I used XC75 High carbon stee because that's what I can easily find in my country. Well… it snapped off and half of it went up me finger nail… You want to try digging that out with a bradawl. However, this does not impact our recommendations. The marking knife for woodworking 600 is to work the gauge in the opposite direction.

After darkening the line, plane down to the line, checking the progress not only by sight, but also by the feel of the line. With a striking knife and a square, you can accurately transfer a scribed line to all other trued faces or edges on a workpiece. Using Marking Gauges In general, hold the marking gauge with a light grip and let the sharp edge or point cut the line. Set the point or knife just long enough to mark; apply lateral pressure to keep the fence against the wood.

Ride the gauge on the whole edge and not just the corner of the piece, a common source of error leading to inaccuracy. Practise making a firm pass to create a deep enough line, but remember that the objective is to gauge and not gouge.

I also prefer to scribe in one pass rather than two to avoid inadvertently making two lines due to slight movement in the gauge during the second pass.

If you need a hard grip to force a line, the tool is dull and needs sharpening. Left: For better control, position the knife or pin so that it protrudes just deep enough to scribe the desired line. Right: The fence is not riding against the full edge of the piece, causing inaccuracy in the marking. Pins tend to tear fibres, leaving a fuzzy or ragged line. Instead, rotate the gauge slightly away from you and push the pin in a trailing manner.

If you pull, tilt the tool toward you and trail. Some woodworkers, Paul Sellers for example, re-drill the hole for the pin at a slight angle for better visibility and trailing effect.

Tilt the gauge towards you if you pull and mark lines with the point in a trailing manner. Instead of using a conical point, Tage Frid filed a flat bevel on the spur, which does not leave a large V-profile typical of lines marked by a point. Derek Cohen, a woodworker and prolific writer in Australia, ground a HSS rod in a similar manner into a spur for his shop-made marking gauge.

The knife is set and aligned parallel with the fence to avoid dragging and tear-out Photo by Derek Cohen. If you need to mark a line to a precise point to lay out a hinge recess, for example , author Robert Wearing offers a nice trick: stab the stop point on the line firmly with the spur and scribe the line till the spur drops into the small hole.

Also called a cutting gauge, a gauge with a knife slices the wood, leaving a crisp line. You pull it like a pin gauge in a trailing fashion. I learned a fence adjustment trick from a retired woodworker: slide the fence close to its final position and tighten the thumbscrew only lightly. Then gently tap either end of the stem on a hard surface to fine tune the fence setting before securing the screw.

Normally, I can get a clean line across the grain with just one pass of the knife gauge. Occasionally, to keep the knife from following the grain, I would make a light pass and then make a second, deeper layout line.

Of all the gauges, a wheel gauge has the shortest learning curve. You can use a wheel gauge with pull or push strokes. This is simply my thoughts and experience with this knife. Want to know my two pence on other tools? As a professional hand tool woodworker, Richard found hand tools to be the far more efficient solution for a one man workshop. Richard runs 'The English Woodworker' as an online resource and video education for those looking for a fuss free approach to building fine furniture by hand.

Just be careful when using it as a skew chisel. The hard steel is kinda brittle and might chip when you pry with it. I would look into Fuller brand Brad Point Bits, made in the northeast.

The are probably some of the best wood bits I have used available in inch and metric , available through Tools for Woring Wood. Made a marking knife just like it from an auto leaf spring. Knifemakers use leaf springs quite often. High carbon steel with chromium. Never thought of using it as a skew chisel, thanks! I bought an old 7 too quickly at the yard sale on my lunch break. When I got it home I found the iron to be snapped in half long ways.

I been rolling around the idea of making a marking knife from the two halves. I think you just pushed me over the edge. If you try carving a circle with a gouge and then with a chisel you can feel how much smoother it is with a curved edge. I use Colt brad point bits, mostly. Nothing, in my view is more accurate and smooth cutting as these bits. I got the single-edge version of this a while back but the gentle curve from one side down the bevel contrasting with the flat straight-edge on the back of the knife gave this optical illusion of the knife tip being bent over whenever I used it and it drove me nuts so I swapped it out for that stanley knife Paul Sellers uses and which my dad used to use a lifetime ago so that was a nice symmetry.

Same steel as their excellent plane irons. I use them very often with a small drill brace with a hex shaft and they make holes in fir without tearout. I made a mistake in the previous post. I thought I would have deleted the word. I just bought an old screwdriver at a garage sale for 50 cents and shaped the point on a grinder, works fine, I use it for just about everything, an old busted up chisel would work too — just shape the tip how you want it.

Fine-tools in Germany carry an extended range of both. I use my in lieu of a router plane on tenon cheeks and dovetailed dados as well. The single- and doublebevelled version cutting knives of the same type are all I use now for cutting and whitling duties. Fairly inexpensive. Then I worry that my saw will dive into the knife line and screw things up. Easy to see, easy to fix and with a thick enough sharp lead, you can extend it deep within a narrow pin.

Hello John. No worries about my name ; The "David" during the video is actually David Piccuito, from the "Making it" podcast. If you are interested, could you send me an email theredsmith hotmail. Redsmith - and his amazing work - here is mine no video but I do have some left over stock so maybe one day. Thanks Jimi! I like yours too! How did you put the blade into the handle? And more importantly, why no video?

I cut a dado out and epoxied the blade into place. I made a few major mistakes on the metal. Namely, I only did stock removal thinking that the metal was hard.

Overall, the metal can't hold an edge. I will be making some knife in future - just don't know when. Tragically, not this year it seems. Viewing your artistic workmanship, you make me want to increase my abilities to try and become a better maker. Thank you very much! It means a lot to me. I'm very happy to be an inspiration as many were and still are for me. Thank you, I too, try and give inspiration to, the least of, my grandchildren of which when seen, has it's most rewards.

Again Thank You. Making something for your children or grandchildren is the most satisfying thing I know. Thanks again! Introduction: Woodworking Marking Knife. By TheRedsmith www. More by the author:. About: Hi, I'm TheRedsmith. I'm a maker. I make stuffs. You can support my work on Patreon. I'm The Redsmith, I'm a maker. I made a full tutorial video that you can watch here : Let's get started! For this build, you will need : High carbon steel : I used XC75 High carbon stee because that's what I can easily find in my country.

Be sure to use the right material and refer to the factory specifications of the steel you use. Then, clamp a piece of wood to use as a straight edge optional but helps a lot. Use a cutting wheel on your angle grinder to cut the steel to width. If you decide to make two or more knives at once, follow the next step. If you're making just one, you can skip this one. Use double-sided tape to hold your pieces together. For more safety, I also used two F clamps. Use a file, a belt sander or a 2x72" belt grinder or even a hand file to straighten the edges and obtain perfectly identical pieces.

Draw a line in the middle of you blade. Then draw a triangle. The shape entirely depends on you and the angle you want for your blade. Use 2x72", a belt sander, a grinder or a file to grind the end of the piece and give it a triangular shape.

Use a center punch to locate the holes you need to drill for the pins. Try to punch on the middle line of your blade for all your pins to get aligned. Drill a pilot hole with a small drilling bit. Don't forget to lubricate the bit with oil or WD40 and go slow to not break it. Then, drill the holes to the final size. The ones near the tip of the blade are the smallest ones, for the pins.

The last one will be used for the brass tube. Just take your time and lubricate the drill bit. Now, you will give your blade its final shape. You can use many tools 2x72", belt sander, grinder, etc Giving your blade the required bevel by hand allows you to go slow, don't make any mistake and get bevels with the same angle on each side of the blade.

Just take your time, work on one side, then do the other one. Try to keep always the same angle.

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