The location of the hub centerline of the dummy axle will vary depending on how you make the bottom bracket post. Suffice it to say, we don't have a dog in this fight. Answer 10 months ago. The standoffs sit 45 deg. So, like Alex, I used the 80 - 40 because it has a hollow center. The cones are held in place on the rod with locking collars from McMaster.

Dad had kept that print in a spare bedroom for a while with intentions of getting it framed but it was there for so long that I think he kind of forgot about doing anything with it. This is a semi-advanced way of making frames. This post contains affiliate links.

Please see disclosure policy for details. Your picture frame size will depend on the size of the picture you are framing and the size of the mat that you want. First, you need the dimensions of the picture you are framing, the width of the mat you want around the picture, and lastly, the width of wood you want your frame pieces to be. Then the formula for your board lengths is:. But you can buy 1x3s off the shelf for this as well.

I adjusted the miter angle on my miter saw to 45 degrees and cut 2 pieces with miters NOT parallel so that the total length long end to long end equaled the width from step 1. Then I cut 2 pieces the same way, but with length equal to the height from step 1.

They need to align perfectly or your DIY picture frame will be crooked or unsquare. You can get more details on this in my DIY cabinet door post here. Just make sure that you always line up the jig in the same location on each piece. Glue ups are always a little stressful. So it is handy to have a second set of hands for this if possible. I applied glue to one corner at a time to give me time to get everything together.

I glued each corner, and made sure to get some into the holes and inserted the dowels. Then squeezed together the best I could. You can see in the video I shared above that I started on one corner and worked my way around. Once all the dowels are started into their holes, I used long pipe clamps to help me push everything together really tight and to help make it nice and square. Once the glue was dry, I gave the corners a good sanding to get rid of any leftover glue from squeeze out, then put a Roman Ogee router bit into my router and went along the outside edges to give it a little decorative detail.

This is totally optional. You can leave your edges plain and square OR use something else besides the Roman Ogee. The beams are drilled to provide allen wrench access to the bolt heads. Assembly is easy. Use a T-square to get each join at a 90 degree angle. Tighten it down. You can order extrusion and parts from a variety of resellers - see 's web site. We'll look at the rest of the parts in the order they would be adjusted to set the jig up to the right dimensions.

The first thing to set on the jig is to adjust the dummy axle to give you the correct bottom bracket drop. The dummy axle is machined from threaded rod. The bigger you go, the stiffer it will be, but if it's too big it might not work well with the Build Your Own Featherbed Frame Map smaller shrouded dropouts like the Ritchey socket dropouts.

Two recesses are turned into the rod at the appropriate distance apart. You'll have to make one dummy axle for each axle size.

The end of the rod needs to be turned to press fit into the base plate - which conveniently is either an Manifold Plate or a Base Plate s , , The location of the hub centerline of the dummy axle will vary depending on how you make the bottom bracket post. The general order of operations is this: Base: 1. Center in the 4-jaw chuck. Bore a hole to a convenient size smaller than the root diameter of the threaded rod you're using. Axle: 1. Turn the press-fit section to size about 1 thousandth over your bored hole, I believe and part off so it's about.

Clamp the press-fit section in the chuck and rough out the closer recess. Finish the recess to 10mm OD and face off the inside flat where the dropout will be clamped, so that it is located the correct distance from the frame centerline. Flip the piece around and turn and finish the other recess. Since you flip the piece you can alway make your cuts close to the chuck so you don't have to turn it between centers.

This is also handy if you have a mini lathe that wont fit the threaded rod through the headstock. The clamping nuts are turned down so one side can fit into shrouded dropouts. You could also modify this design to be adjustable over several hub widths by making the recesses wider and using multiple center sleeves. They would be held on center by drilling the sleeve and axle and fixing them together with a clevis pin. The base plate would just be drilled and threaded for the rod. It won't be as sturdy as the above design but it wouldn't require any lathe work.

You could always reuse the base plate later by boring it out to a larger size as shown in the original design. It actually wouldn't be a bad idea to have one dummy axle assembly built this way in case you end up building something with an asymmetrical rear end or an unusual rear hub spacing. See the second picture.

You can see in the last picture how the bottom bracket drop is set. A piece of a measuring tape from a Dollar Store tape measure has been glued to the end of the frame upright. A notch has been filed and inked at the center of the base plate as an indicator. The BB post is machined from another manifold or caster plate. The bolt head is slotted for a washer to be brazed or welded in place. A piece of flat stock with a hole in the center serves as large washer to clamp the BB in place.

On a lathe two grooves have been cut to fit the inside of standard and eccentric bottom brackets. Extra material can be removed outside of the outer groove, and you can even taper it back away from the front face a bit. On the milling machine you should remove a little bit of the outside flange for clearance on certain bottom brackets.

You can mill a bit more off the rear edge for even more chainstay clearance. See the second photo. Since the groove is turned 3mm deep into the face of the plate, you will either have to drill the 4 mounting holes on the plate a little deeper, or you can grind or turn the M8 button head allen bolts heads to give them a lower profile. If you need an latheless alternative, You could drill the plate to take 4 spring pins or socket head allens.

This would work to hold the bottom bracket shell on center. This would however move your centerline out 3mm from the above design. See the third photo. These two methods require the bottom bracket shell to be faced accurately.

The third photo shows a nicer design that you could have turned that would align the shell to the threads. It attaches to blind-mounted allens, much like the main frame is fastened together. The beam pivots around an M8 allen head bolt that sits inside of the central cavity of the beam, as shown in the fourth photo. This gives you room for the clamping bolt of the BB post to thread into the base plate.

It looks funny, with so little contact, so if you have an end mill you could at least mill a small flat for the bolt head to seat on. But it seems to just work fine without it. The bolt threads into a T-nut. You can load the bolt from the end of the extrusion so you only need to drill one hole through the beam, big enough to allow the bolt to pass through and meet up with the T-nut.

It will be big enough to access the bolt with an allen wrench to tighten and loosen the bolt through the center hole of the BB post.

There is a little slop between the bolt and the t-slot. In practice, I don't think it makes much difference, but you could always turn a little spacer out of brass rod to take up some of the slack. To set the chainstays, take the chainstay length and subtract half of the dummy axle width and half of the fixing bolt width. If you're clever and used the same size for both, you just subtract that number.

Then just measure from the outside surface of the dummy axle to the edge of the hole. Slide the seat tube beam until it's correct and then tighten down the allen bolt. If you wanted to build tandems, it seems like you'd just need to make 2 of these adustable beam assemblies with BB posts and seat tube cones, and a longer main frame to fit the length of the tandem frame. Or if you don't mind building the frame in segments, just fit the front adjustable beam with another bottom bracket plate.

It won't interfere with single bike production, but would let you build the front triangle in the same manner as a single, and then transfer it forward to the other beam and build the stoker's portion of the frame and the rear triangle.

This part holds the end of the seattube at the appropriate distance from the seat tube beam. It's just an Inside Corner Bracket and a metal cone. Unfortunately, unless you own a lathe, the cone is one of the few parts that I think you're going to have to let a machine shop make for you.

I've heard that there are off-the-shelf cones available as part of an auto clutch alignment tool, but I've never had one in my hand to see if it could be made to work here. Sometimes there are cones for sale on eBay for building motorcycle jigs.

I've even heard that some small showerheads can be used for cones. If you're really desperate, you could make something out of two pieces of angle iron and a long bolt, as shown in the second photo.

Hacksaw a taper on the angle iron and weld or braze them to the bolt. You'll then want to rig up some way to file or grind the taper so that it's on center. Anyway, the cone is, well, a cone. If you plan to work with pointy lugs you might want to include an straight extension at around Stainless steel would be ideal but mine are just aluminum and they do the job. The far end of the cone is tapped for an M6 bolt. I drilled the hole in the angle bracket slightly oversize so that I could tweak the exact location of the the cone to fine-tune the alignment.

At it's most basic, you just clamp the part to the beam using two Double T-nuts. There's a good amount of play in the unit, so you have to make sure it stays aligned on center with the beam, otherwise your seat angle will come out wrong.

One way to improve the accuracy of this piece would be to replace one of the fastening bolts with a smaller bolt that taps into a small nylon or brass 'gib' that would ride in the slot. This would keep the piece from rotating. Another option is to space all the fixture parts off of the main frame using 3x3 spacer blocks of the same extrusion. Then you could use Joining Plates riding on the sides of the beam to hold the plate.

You'll want to make your adjustable beams 3 inches longer if you go this route. See the fourth photo. The piece locks the beam at the correct angle, and works as an angle indicator.

After you have set your chainstay length at the bottom bracket, you set the seat angle here. It should be self-explanatory, really. It's a Inside Corner Bracket. I milled a slot connecting the outer two holes with a milling machine but you could drill a series of holes and then finish the slot with a Build Your Own Floater Frame Java round file.

A jeweler's saw would work too. I used a short carriage bolt from the hardware store, cut to length and ground it to fit the slot. I took the nerdy approach and mocked up the angle indicator in Autocad, printed it out, and used the paper pattern to file little notches in the end of the angle bracket.

They line up with one of the Align-A-Grooves to indicate the angle. The groove is inked so you can see it better. It's probably faster to just set the notches by just using a protractor to set the angle between the adjustable beam and the frame. The angle bracket attaches to the beam with yet another double T-nut and matching 16mm M8 button-head allen bolts.

The next step in setting up the jig for a frame would be to set the pseudo-front-center. It's not the real front-center the distance from the bottom bracket to the front hub axle, but actually the horizontal distance from the bottom bracket to the steering axis. I design my bikes in CAD so this is an easy number to find.

If you don't use CAD you will have to draw a scale drawing to correctly set this distance. You could certainly set the location of the head tube by trying to measure the top tube length from beam to beam but that seems a bit finicky and vague on this design. However, there are lots of grooves on the extrusion to give you something to measure off of. The T-bolt goes through a hole drilled all the way through the adjustable beam.

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