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Look for the ones that use the sticky-back discs;. In my opinion, top of the line Wilton vises are the strongest that Harbor Freight Belt And Disc Sander Dust Collection System can be found, and also the most expensive. Various mixtures of some or all of the oils or fat will also work. Note the variety of materials and shapes shown in the related photo;. A 2-inch-byinch belt grinder, which is the standard of the handmade knife industry for many good reasons. For that size of a belt grinder, excellent, quality belts are available in any grit and type you would ever need.
The Coote belt grinder gets my vote as the most machine for the money. It comes without a motor. With some luck, a suitable motor can be found for a fraction of the cost of a machine with a motor installed.
The Coote is available from the manufacturer, no middleman, and that saves dollars;. Check with Sears, Costco or one of the import places. You might not want to use a grinding wheel that much, but with one end set up with an abrasive cutting wheel, it just might become one of your most-often used tools;.
Knifemakers supply companies sell these adapters, as does Sears. The author sets his up as shown in the related photo; and. I did 90 percent of the work on the project knife with my homemade hard-wheel grinder. If you consider your time to be worth something and you have the dollars in your pocket.
I got my start in with a homemade grinder. See the photo of the faithful replica of that machine, which was used for the making of the project knife.
The only good thing I can say for it is that the belt grinder was not needed. Nothing beats them for taking the scale off of forged blades or damascus billets. These grinders come in a wide variety of sizes and price ranges. When material is pressed against a disc or belt that is running, one end of the material will be slightly tapered because the initial contact was in that area.
This is eliminated with a foot switch, which allows the material to be applied to the disc prior to turning it on. The material is kept in contact with the disc until it stops turning after the foot switch is turned off. The type of arbor that I used is no longer available, but the threaded aluminum discs are still in production. The place to look for the discs is at lapidary supply stores. See the photo. A paper-cutting jig cuts a full sheet of sandpaper so that there is not so much waste.
Once the sandpaper is adhered to the disc, a sharp knife is used to cut off the waste. The paper is held in place with 3-M Spray Disc Adhesive. This is a great product because three or four disc changes can be made before it needs to be renewed.
He purchased the discs from Texas Knifemakers Supply, but the arbor and pillow blocks were purchased locally. The 9-inch discs run on a shaft supported by ball-bearing pillow blocks. The advantage of the double discs is that they allow for left- and right-hand rotation.
The 9-inch size allows the user to cut discs from standard-sized sandpaper. There are two ways for the beginner to shape blades—stock removal and forging. There was a time when all blades were made by forging. Steel was expensive and even rare in those days. Two blades can often be forged from the same-sized piece of steel that would make only one full-tang stock-removal blade.
The invention of manmade grinding wheels opened up the possibility for steel to be removed quickly, and stock removal became feasible for making knives. The tang is iron that was forge-welded onto the steel blade.
This sounds like a lot of work for those of us who have unlimited piles of steel with which to work. The welding of scraps to make bigger pieces was business as usual for the tribal smith who made this knife.
Note the branch from a tree that was used for a handle and the crude bolster to keep the handle from splitting. The hole for the tang is the exact shape as the tang and that shows that the tang was burned into the handle. This allows the new maker to get started making knives with a bare minimum of equipment. An advantage, for myself, to forging is the energy created by the process. I get sick and tired of grinding and sanding inside my shop. Grinding creates smelly grit that permeates the skin and clothing.
That energy thing is hard to explain; it must be experienced. That sounds good to me. The steel bar stock selected for the stock-removal blade should not be much wider and thicker than is necessary to make the blade.
Clamp your pattern onto the steel, drill the two holes for pins, place trial pins in the holes and scribe the outline into the steel. The accompanying photo shows three ways to cut the blade from of the bar. Another way to cut the blade off of the bar stock is to drill a series of holes and then break it apart. A properly sharpened drill bit will remove metal quite rapidly.
At top in the related photo is a steel bar scribed to show the points of two blades. At, bottom the bar has been drilled and broken apart. A good way to establish the radius is to use drilled holes. There are two stages to any type of blade grind. Edges can warp or crack when they are too thin going into the quench process. Leaving some material to take off after heat-treat makes the quench operation a lot safer for the blade.
Blades can, and do, warp during the quench operation, and the extra material will allow some straightening to be done with the grinder.
The stock-removal knifemaker starts with a rectangular cross-section of steel and turns it into a wedge shape, which can be arrived at with several different methods.
The stock-removal method can be completed several ways. An adequate job can be done with a bench grinder, sometimes called a hard-wheel grinder. This allowed me to control the blade with both hands and see what I was doing. I ruined more than a few abrasive discs by jamming them on the sides of blades where the discs were cutting towards the edges.
With this type of setup, it would have been nice to have a reversible motor. I made close to three hundred knives with such a setup before I had a belt grinder.
The time required cancelled the savings in belts. It was actually kind of foolish if I would have considered my time to be worth money.
Sharp, new belts are required for getting the bevels set up accurately. Many grinding errors that new makers make are caused by trying to work with dull belts. Make up your mind that each hunting knife is going to cost you the price of at least two new belts.
Use a red, waterproof marking pen to ink in the blade prior to each new grit size. Any grinding scratches that remain will show up easier because of the red ink. Check for those remaining scratches under a good light. Look at the blade from tip to tang, then from edge to back. Grinding to the line from each side will leave approximately the correct thickness at the edge to make it safe for the quenching operation.
If the bevels are brought down to a thin, nearly sharp edge, the edge may crack or warp during the quench. The photo on page 38 shows two ways to mark the centerlines;. As an alternate method, Harbor Freight Belt And Disc Sander Dust Collection Network you can create a convex blade shape as you go along. This keeps the stress in the blade more uniform.
Taking off all the material from one side of the blade before the other side is ground can cause it to warp;. You should leave approximately 20 percent of the steel to take off after the blade is hardened and tempered;. If the grinding wheel was grit, start disc sanding with an grit disc, then go to a grit disc, and then to a grit disc. See the accompanying photo. Trim off any excess disc material so that a fairly sharp corner can be created;.
I always create a false grind, or simply round the back of the blade. The photo shows how I use a medium Crystalon stone with a groove in it to get a nice radius on the back of the blade;. Give the whole blade a once over and it is now ready for the heat-treating sequence. A light touch is best because it keeps the teeth from digging too deep.
Time is money and they will make the work faster and smoother. Civilization as we know it would not be possible if man had not learned how to utilize iron and steel to the high degree of which it is employed today. Steel is unique and useful because it can be treated so that it is extremely hard, springy or relatively soft.
As knifemakers, we can utilize the extreme forms that steel can be heat-treated to for our advantage. The best example of this is a blade that has been either selectively hardened or selectively tempered.
This is possible because the edge is hard, the center section of the blade is spring tempered and the back is relatively soft.
The heart of any knife is the heat-treatment the blade received. The heat treatment will be considered a success when the blade is capable of doing the work expected of it.
If a blade is too soft, it will not stay sharp and could actually bend from being used for hard work. If it is too hard, it will chip or break in normal use.
The successful knife heat-treatment leaves the blade just right, not too hard but not too soft. The ideal hardness is best worked out by trial and error by comparing blades with new types of steel or heat-treatments against blades of known value. There are three elements to any heat-treating process—heating, cooling and time.
A little difference in temperature can have a big effect on the results. The element of time is perhaps less important, but it is always the correct combination of time and temperature that is necessary to accomplish the transformations that give the desired results. Edge-holding ability is almost entirely dependent on a relatively high hardness. I would estimate that 95 percent of Harbor Freight Belt And Disc Sander Dust Collection Youtube handmade knives are between Rc on the Rockwell hardness scale.
The intended use for the knife will determine the maximum hardness that will be acceptable. My usual answer is that it depends on the heat-treatment. As a general rule, proper heat-treating is more important than the steel type. A relatively simple steel, when properly heat-treated, will outperform a more sophisticated steel that has a defective heat-treat. When heated to a certain point and cooled quickly, the steel becomes hard, brittle and full of stress; this is called the quench.
Heating the martensite to a lower temperature will soften it somewhat, relieve the stress, Harbor Freight Belt And Disc Sander Dust Collection Version and if the temperature was correct, the result will be a serviceable product.
The low temperature treatment, usually between F, is called tempering, or drawing the temper. The heat source for the quenching process must generate an even heat and the temperature needs to be controllable. Once you submit your instructions, while your order is in progress and even after its completion, our support team will monitor it to provide you with timely assistance.
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