- Просмотрите доску «Clamps» пользователя Стефан Петрсв в Pinterest. Посмотрите больше идей на темы «столярные работы, деревообработка, верстак». hand screw clamp отличного качества с бесплатной доставкой по всему миру на www.-   Если вы решили приобрести товар по запросу hand screw clamp, то вы находитесь в нужном месте. AliExpress — это платформа для онлайн-шопинга, где для вас представлены тысячи товаров самых разных категорий. С AliExpress вы всегда можете быть уверены, что найдете нужные вам вещи, будь то дорогостоящие изделия или небольшие покупки. Download files and build them with your 3D printer, laser cutter, or CNC. Thingiverse is a universe of things. Again, problem mostly solved, but my arms and shoulders still had to double as a human steering damper. This will withdraw the lower end of the adjuster rod from the valving stack in the bottom of the forks. In April ofI switched to trials tires. Having said all that, I note that in the last few years we are seeing forks with a spring in one fork only and different fluid levels, forks with no springs at all, and forks with compression on one side and rebound on the other and commensurate differing fluid levels. Recently, I bought some animal syringes at a hand screw clamp plans supply store, and tried one as shown here. But now, I was using mousse instead of inner tubes, and thought that might make a hand screw clamp plans.

Walk the damper rod up the spring, as described above. Reach in and pull the damper rod up through the spring far enough to screw the fork cap on a few turns. I grab the threaded end of the damper rod with one hand and push down on the spring with the other hand. In the picture, my finger on the back side of the spring is pushing the spring into the plastic guide, preventing the damper rod from dropping.

Carefully install the fork cap and adjuster rod. By hand, screw the fork cap onto the damper rod until it stops. Slide a 14mm open end wrench onto the nut. Holding it steady, use a 17mm box end wrench on the fork cap, and screw the fork cap down until tight. Remember back when I told you to take note of how hard these two were to separate? Try to match that tightening torque. Tight, but not too tight.

Screw the fork cap into the fork tube with the 17mm wrench. You want the fork cap snug, but not over-tight. The upper fork pinch bolt on the triple clamp will keep the fork cap from coming loose once the fork is mounted. The o-ring on the fork cap will keep the fork fluid inside. All that is necessary is for the cap to be tight enough to not come loose. You'll be glad it's not over-tight when you remove the fork cap for fluid replacement.

Ready to be mounted in the triple clamp. Correct fork fluid choice is critical to get good performance, suited to your riding style and terrain. Although you find riders who leave the fork boots off of conventional forks, it's not a good idea for USD forks. The outer two protectors are used. Note the protectors get yellow with age and exposure to sunlight. If you want to use your stock CRFF front wheel and front brake with the CRFR forks, you will need to install a brake caliper bracket that is designed for the purpose.

I have not bought nor used this Applied Racing Carrier, so I have no info to offer. Several riders have posted on ThumperTalk about using it; do a search. I am trying to mount a CRFF wheel to the CRFR forks and the carrier does not provide any clearance benefits vs the stock carrier no offset or distance from forks gained. So not much use for this project. I have not bought nor used this Emig Racing Caliper Bracket, which is a 2-piece bracket, so I have no info to offer.

Reger Engineering is no longer in business, so the availability of his caliper bracket is limited. A machinist friend of mine made a functional copy shown in picture left and they are for sale HERE. Follow the installation instructions provided with the kit. You must use the correct axle and axle collars when using the CRFF front wheel; see Reger front axle collars below.

Two brackets and two sets of axle collars are shown for clarity. You must tap and install heli-coils in the fork tabs where the brake caliper bracket is mounted. The key is to get a long enough thread to allow for a good, solid seat for the caliper bolts.

And then to use good quality bolts that won't stretch like one set of bolts did for me and tighten to the correct torque.

These are included in the caliper bracket kit. I installed the Fix-A-Thred type of heli-coil on my second set of forks. I'd never worked with heli-coils on such a long length. Tapping was a tedious process and fraught with anxiety - nervous about getting it perpendicular.

They weren't long enough to fill the entire length, and I had to install one on each end of each hole. What a great idea. So I did a little checking and decided that M I bought some nuts and bolts and after fitting them with the bolt heads outside and the nuts inside, I discovered that the nuts interfered with the rotor bolts and the bolts were a few threads too long, which also caused a problem.

Smaller nuts didn't hold well and trimming the bolt threads was too labor intensive. Also, installing with the bolt heads inside did not work - too big. After trying several other combinations, I arrived at the following - button head socket cap screws with small round heads. The small heads are mounted inside and clear the rotor bolts just fine.

The flanged lock nuts are mounted outside shown here with a few threads showing. I was unable to find these bolts in 48mm length. If the look is not acceptable, you can use a band saw to shorten the 50mm bolts about 2 threads.

Bolt heads and inside view, showing clearance. Click to supersize. Test rides did not reveal any problems. The caliper alignment did not vary and the nuts stayed tight. Bolt head clearance is not a problem; they are very much out-of-the-way. The Hillman Group M Amazon Fastenal and MSC also have comparable bolts.

Buy a grade sufficient for 22 foot pounds tightening torque. Honda CR85R axle, washer, and nut. Axle size 12 mm, actual M12 washer and nut. Reger "Wheel Spacers and Center Support" kit. Used with the CR85R fork install. The smaller machined ends of the Center Support fit inside the stock CRFF wheel bearings, one of which must be removed to install the Center Support into the wheel hub.

I replaced the bearings. Honda CRFF axle. Axle size is 15 mm, actual No nut is used. Large end of axle is 20mm, clamped by fork lower. CRFF axle distance collar and wheel collars. Stock, for comparison. Honda CRFR axle, washer, and nut. M15 washer and M14 nut. Stock CRFR axle collars. These are not used with CRFR fork install; see next panel below. If you are unable to contact Reger to purchase these, you can make your own collars or have a machine shop make them up.

I measured a used set of collars Note - the axle collars are included in the caliper bracket kit. I used a caliper to measure the i. I'm not that good doing inside measurements with a caliper.

So I suggest using Both collars are stainless steel; the smaller one was very slightly magnetic on one end. Yes, the collars have different o. There is scoring on the surfaces of both collars: I ride lottsa miles and even metal will give way to plastic and rubber if there is an abrasive and plenty of time. You must modify the triple clamps as described in the next topic below 'Lower triple clamp modification'.

Once this is done, the triples install on the steering stem and the CRFR forks slide right in. You can make a mount for the key switch and attach it to the triple clamps, the handlebars, or the frame near the steering stem.

Or somewhere else that works for you. You can remove the key switch altogether. You will loose some measure of security, so be sure you want to take the risk before proceeding. Here is a description of how to rewire your bike if you remove the key switch. Do this when you've got the fuel tank off to relocate the CDI. Pull the key switch wire bundle away; it will go away when you remove the stock triple clamps with key switch attached.

The small tab sticking out from the lower right of the lower clamp facing it is used to mount a brake hose guide on the stock CRFR. The guide is positioned well when a number plate is mounted on the triple clamp.

I mounted a headlight and the guide was no longer useable. So I mounted a brake hose guide I found in my box-o-parts; you can just make it out here. You can modify the R triple clamps to fit the F:.

Remove the steering stem nut and washer, then slide the upper triple clamp off. Remove the lower nut and the 4 fork pinch bolts. Scribe the steering stem just above the bearing. Call this the 'bearing line'. Press the steering stem down through the lower clamp and out the bottom. FishFreq-TT quote "I used a 2 ton hydraulic press and it wasn't easy! I could see the aluminum triple flex pretty far before it popped loose!

Freeze stem before pressing back together also. Machine the inner step in the bottom of the lower clamp. Took 20 min, stopping now and then to check depth with calipers. Hole was rough, but it doesn't need to be precise because the tight tolerance part of the hole is the smaller deeper part. Scribe a line about. Chuck the steering stem in a lathe and turn the shaft down to the I.

This allows the bearing to slide down to the lower clamp. The area just above this was under the bearing, so it will already be the correct diameter for a press fit of the bearing. Press the steering stem up through the lower clamp. If you measured and machined the inner step accurately, the second scribed line will be at the top edge of the lower clamp.

Slide the bearing onto the steering stem, gently coaxing it down to the lower clamp. The triple clamp on the left is the modified one, with the stem pressed in about 5mm below the surface. The triple clamp on the right is a brand new un-modified triple clamp. The stem on the right sticks above the triple clamp surface about 1 mm. Alternatively, you can press out the R stem and press in a '90 - '95 XRR stem. No grinding or lathe work necessary.

I discovered that '87 - '95 have the same steering stem part number: KT I bought it. Not much better now that I have it Here's the important part - the stem lengths compared. The XR is longer! But how much longer? Parallax skews the view. Exactly what we need. Lots easier than all that grinding and machining. In the list below, you need 2 bearings, so count bearings as 2 parts. The upper dust seals are the same; lowers are different. The nuts are finer pitch on the R; coarser on the XR.

The washers are different. The last two parts in each list sit on top of the upper clamp, and are shown on the Handlebar parts page. I've never had to replace the steering stem bearings on my two CRF30F bikes. While creating this page and performing the steering stem modifications, I decided to buy new steering stem bearings to insure that I wasn't re-using anyone's cast-offs or poorly maintained bearings.

When I ordered the new bearings, I noticed that there was a part supersede replacing No biggie, happens all the time. I looked at the on-line parts fiche and it showed the supersede also, so I have no idea when the new part came on-line. The new bearing is 2.

There are 19 rollers in the old bearing and 20 in the new bearing. The races appear identical. Bearings in their races for a comparison. When installed in the head pipe, the new bearings extend about 1mm more than the old setup, with both races 2 shown on the right.

After studying these parts for a while, I believe that Honda has covered the bases - even though the new bearings Free Woodworking Plans Hand Tools Research are taller, they still work just fine because of the location where the bearings are used. There is empty space inside the head pipe, and the extra height of the bearings just pokes into that empty space.

I suppose a different use where the vertical clearance was very tight would pose a problem. And you don't have to swap races if the old ones are in good shape. I read that these steering stem bearings were used on many Honda motorcycles in this bike size. When I finished this bearing research, I decided to find which Honda motos were involved. There is a web site that shows you which models a given part is used on. There are bikes from through that use this bearing.

Removing multi-year uses on a given model yields bikes. List by model List by year. He used a 12 ton press and had to use a propane torch to heat the aluminum lowers. The XR popped with a loud bang and then slid out in one motion. The CRF popped with a similar loud bang, but the stacked pieces shifted as he was pressing the stem out. The fender mounts sticking out the bottom are off-center from the stem and the spacer he was using shifted.

Lesson learned - make sure any spacers are adjusted Fine Cut Handsaw Screwfix 30 to be stable. On the continuation press with re-heat , it took quite a bit of heat and pressure to get the stem sliding again. Another lesson learned - once it's moving, don't slow down. Note - to avoid damaging the threaded top end of the stems during pressing, we did two things.

We also screwed on the upper nut first, then after snuggly mounting the lower spacer, stem, and upper blank in the press, we screwed the nut up to the blank, about one-half flat past just kissing. The ends of the stem are undamaged. This is more important when pressing the aluminum stem. One-half flat means turn the nut so that the position of any flat on the nut moves half way to the next flat position.

I'm chasing down reports of a difference in stem outside diameters between the two. My stems are nearly identical o. Notice the bottom of the stem sticks out a bit right side picture ; the XRR stem uses a snap ring where the CRFR stem has none, instead, a larger end on the stem. Marvin handled the stem wearing welder's gloves - see thumb in rightmost picture. Once pressed in, the entire lower clamp began to cool rapidly.

Discard the dry ice safely - it is a dangerous hazard to pets and kids. It will vaporize safely in a double paper bag. From wikipedia: Dry ice sublimates at This extreme cold makes the solid dangerous to handle without protection due to burns caused by freezing frostbite.

While generally not very toxic, the outgassing from it can cause hypercapnia abnormally elevated carbon dioxide levels in the blood due to buildup in confined locations. See also SAFETY: Because it sublimes into large quantities of carbon dioxide gas, which could pose a danger of hypercapnia, dry ice should only be exposed to open air in a well-ventilated environment.

I'll dismount the set currently on my F and mount this set to verify the fit. Here is the modified triple clamp installed on one of my CRFF bikes. The lower steering stem nut that locks the upper bearing into the head pipe had plenty of thread-range to set initial torque. The upper nut that locks down the upper triple clamp has more than enough threads sticking up out the top. I did not have a new part 7 locking washer on the stem, but there are plenty of threads to accomodate it see the XRR parts list above.

Test rides confirm the XR stem is solidly in place and stable beyond my ability to find fault. Bearing drag remained as installed. The temp after the bearing install: Note the new bearing and the lower clamp have frosted up. I didn't attempt to touch the assembly with my bare hands for 30 minutes. The stock CRFF brake hose will not work with the CRFR forks - it's too short and the places where it must be clamped are not suitable for clamping.

Having said that the stock F brake hose is too short, here's an example of what it looks like with the stock number plate runnerng on TT. I consider this just barely workable. If you use a headlight, you'll need a longer brake hose. Note that the stock F brake hose is not steel-braided. With these R forks, you're gonna be riding a bit harder and will want the better stopping performance of steel-braided over rubber hose.

For my first fork replacement CR80R , I used a steel-braided brake hose that was left over from some project I had done years ago. I have no information about what bike this brake hose came off of. This brake hose was long enough to clear the headlight and other items mounted on the triple clamps.

Although the brake hose is not steel-braided, it works very good. I decided to check what an after-market steel-braided brake hose would cost. I took a spare brake hose from my stock that was almost exactly the length of the steel-braided hose of my first conversion and visited a motorcycle dealer. I found a match with the Suzuki RMZ I chose a plain-jane standard color, but they offer many different colors of hose, bolts, and banjos.

I removed the CRFR brake hose and installed this new one. Regardless of which brake hose you choose, you should use the front brake hose clamp on the left side fork protector. It will clamp the brake hose so the hose will be out of the way and also positioned correctly for the caliper connection. The clamp is actually 2 parts and you mount it with 2 bolts. See the picture in the Triple clamps section above.

Reger Engineering sold an aluminum stop that is mounted to the front of the head pipe. My machinist friend made a few of these see here. If you have the skills, you can make your own.

When fitting the steering stop, I first had to relocate the CDI from the front of the head pipe to a spot under the fuel tank. I moved the CDI box only I set aside the bracket and rubber holder. I found it was easiest to disconnect the CDI and move it around until I found a spot that I liked, then connect the wiring, then use zip-ties to hold everything in place. I made sure that the plastic wiring connectors were not under any pressure from touching anything.

There was adequate clearance from the fuel tank I checked. While the fuel tank is off, consider whether you want to remove the key switch, and if so, do the rewiring now. If you use the stock CRFF front fender and the forks are set with the tops even with the triple clamp top, AND you ride aggressively, chances are you will find that the front tire hits the front fender on hard landings. I used the F fender for a while on my first fork conversion, then tried the R fender.

The large raised area between the 4 bolt holes is where the tire hits most often. On the R fender, this area is considerably lower and the tire will hit the fender less often. The wear marks in the R circle-1 attest to some bottoming. The bottoming happened before I lowered the forks. Some incidental rubbing occurs at the rear of both fenders when mud builds up on the fender. The shorter R fender does not rub so much.

I noticed some rubbing on the R fender in this area which was caused by me using the wrong collars; I used some I found in my extra parts bin. When I switched to the correct ones see below , the rubbing stopped. It only took me a year to notice The arc of the R fender is tighter than the F fender, and the end of the R fender rubs when mud builds up.

You can just see where I trimmed the end of the R fender to reduce the mud build-up area. It helps. I should avoid riding in mud.

Yeah, right. I did mount an aftermarket universal-type fender, but it proved to be worse than either of these, so I finally settled on the R fender. If you get the CRFR fender, make sure to get the matching 4 bolts and 4 collars. They are different than the CRFF bolts and collars. Actually, I see the collars are included with the fender SUB I am aware of a concern for the front tire hitting the frame at full fork compression.

Several riders have sent emails asking if I had any difficulties with the front tire hitting the frame downtube when the forks are compressed to their minimum length, on a jump landing for instance.

I don't recall ever even considering the possibility. When I bought and installed the complete Reger kit in , I had no doubt that there would be no problems whatsoever. The kit was engineered and manufactured to such a high quality, I expected it would perform flawlessly. And it has. The subsequent install of a self-assembled and constructed kit has also been trouble free.

But just to be on the safe side, I decided to have a look at my bikes. A quick look under the front fenders reveals mud on the lower fenders and frame down tubes.

If there was any rubbing, it would show in the residual dried mud. No trace that I could see. I decided I needed more substantive proof, so I chose one bike and got busy. I removed the handlebars and popped the fork caps, then slid the wheel up against the bottom of the front fender. The question is, can the forks collapse any further if the fender wasn't there?

Next, I removed the fender, and jammed the wheel up as far as it would go. The fork is collapsed the maximum amount possible. The lower castings on the inner fork tubes are tight against the bottoms of the outer fork tubes. This condition can only occur when the front fender and fork caps are removed. In this test, the fork Fine Cut Handsaw Screwfix Usa springs are removed, and the fork caps are screwed into the tops of the forks and incidentally onto the damper rods.

This will be the thickness of the handle, you could turn it down more but a thick handle makes it easy to grip and apply pressure to the clamp.

Next I used a story stick I made. This is just a stick with all the relevant markings on, so when I make any more clamps I don't need to measure everything over and over.

I marked where the handle finished then turned down the rest of the screw to the required diameter, 35mm in my case. The two screws are different, one has a notch near the handle and the other has a notch near the end.

The plan I provided will show the layout better. Using the markings again on the story stick I marked and turned the relevant notches etc, for each screw.

I put a chamfer on both ends of the handle, the notches and the end of the screw, this makes it easier to start the threading of the screw. As I said earlier I used my home made threading box but there are commercial ones available too. They are a great tool to have for making vices, clamps and even decorative nuts and bolts. I soaked the screw blanks in linseed oil overnight. This helps stabilise the wood fibres and helps for a cleaner thread.

When cutting threads there is a chance of some chipout, it won't affect the way the threads work but it can look a little unsightly. Different wood works better than others, I like to use camphor laurel as it cuts clean threads without soaking in linseed oil. The linseed oil still improves the Camphor Laurel slightly so it's still worth the extra process. If a wood turns well on the lathe or carves well then it will be suited to cutting threads.

When cutting the threads, the screw with the notch near to the handle only needs cutting up to the notch. It won't be possible to cut the threads all the way up to the handle on the other screw as the threading box will bottom out on the shoulder of the handle. An allowance will be made for this when making the jaws. I used some old packing pine for the two jaws. I'm not sure where I acquired it but it was fairly substantial and as my screws are quite large, the jaws need to be in proportion.

I cut them to size 45x60mm and mm long. Then I cleaned them up with a hand plane. It's worth getting them as square and true as possible as they will work nicer and close together better. I made them out of pine as softwood won't mark the workpiece when in use. Next I drilled holes into the jaws to take the screws. Careful attention is required here as each hole is different.

On one jaw the two holes will be threaded but one of those needs drilling slightly wider so far down. This is because the one screw we threaded didn't thread all the way to the handle. The distance between the handle and the last thread on the screw will be the depth you need to drill a larger recess. On the other jaw one hole is drilled slightly larger than the outside diameter of the screw including threads.

My screw is 34mm and I drilled the appropriate hole in the jaw with a 35mm forstner bit. The other hole needs to be slightly larger than the end of the other screw. This can be drilled all the way through or it could be stopped drilled to the required depth if you would prefer that look. The last thing I did was to roundover the holes with a trim router using a 3mm rounder bit. This makes it neater but also reduces tearout when the threaded holes are threaded with the tap.

Both holes are in the same jaw and the reason the clamp adjusts in the normal handscrew manner. A handscrew clamp usually works by one screw going through a jaw and screwing into to the opposite jaw, then the other screw going back through that jaw and screwing back into the first jaw. For this to work with the easy hand over hand adjustment the two threads have to be opposing.

You can still use two right hand threads to make a clamp this way but it will be a pain to adjust. So much so, you will probably never use it, at least in the middle of a difficult glue up. The collars are made to fit around the notches in the screws. They don't actually have to take any strength but they do keep the clamp together. The clamp would function without them but it wouldn't be pleasant to use and the whole thing could come apart.

I used Camphor Laurel again and cut two pieces the width of the jaws and 6mm thick to fit into the notches of the screws. They need to be 70mm long. After finding the centre I drilled holes slightly larger 1mm than the diameter of the notch in the screws. Then I cut the two collars in half straight down the middle using the bandsaw. This could be done with a handsaw too. These are to house the collars.

Mark them out by using each collar and cut to the depth of the collar 6mm. I used the tablesaw making multiple passes. You could use a router or even cut by hand with a handsaw and chisel. Next I fitted the collars to the jaw and clamped them in place. I pre-drilled and countersunk a hole in the corner of each collar.

I used the bandsaw to cut the end of the jaws into a taper, you could also do this with a handsaw. Then I cleaned the saw marks up with a hand plane and chamfered all the edges to make it more comfortable to handle. The screw with the notch in the end is installed first.

This is screwed all the way through the threaded hole nearest the end of the threaded jaw. Then the opposite jaw is taken and the end of the the screw is inserted and with four screws the collar is fitted to hold the screw in place. The other screw is pushed through the unthreaded hole from the other side of the clamp and screwed into the opposite jaw. The collar is then screwed in place and the clamp is finished and Woodworking Clamp Rack Plans Free ready to use.

The only thing this clamp can't do that a normal handscrew clamp can is it won't clamp anything tapered. But that isn't something you need to do often. Very nice. You mentioned you had a homemade thread cutter for those wooden dowels.

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