There are quite a few parts of the jointer plane, but we are only going to go over the most important ones, with a few of the less important parts listed only because of their interesting names. I flattening jointer plane sole on used it and does work albeit with a lot of messing Thanks Gary. Sign up or log in Sign up using Google. My arms are killing me already from all that grinding. The iron is in this one. The traditional design wooden plane front has a complex mouth, and flattening jointer plane sole on movement will often lead to an ill fitting wedge. I ended up doing some level of flattening on all my second-hand planes bar the very last one that I purchased which, to my astonishment, had been sorted out by a previous owner.

The long sole of the jointer plane creates an extended base that feels the inconsistencies of the board it is moving across. As long as the sole is true, the cutting edge of a jointer plane will do its best to create a flat surface, cutting away any excess material that does not match up with the long, flat plane that the sole is following. There are quite a few parts of the jointer plane, but we are only going to go over the most important ones, with a few of the less important parts listed only because of their interesting names.

Before starting any project , always make sure there is enough room to maneuver around the object you are working on. Since we are working with a non-powered hand tool, safety equipment like eye protection or gloves is not necessary , but still recommended. Keep in mind that the cutting edge, the iron, is extremely sharp, so take the necessary precautions when moving your fingers around that area. Any hand plane must be adjusted before every use.

Hard use, incorrect storage, or just simple jostling can change the alignment of the plane. Some vintage or custom made jointer planes may have different methods of adjustment, but we are following basic plane adjustment ideas here.

When starting your planing project, set the initial cutting depth so that it takes off very little material. Starting out too deep can jam up the plane and cause unwanted marks on the wood surface. After all the proper adjustments to the jointer plane have been made, it is time to start flattening your board. The first step is to stabilize the wood on a solid surface. A workbench is preferred , but any flat table that you are able to use clamps with will work. A woodworking vise is the preferred option to clamping the piece from the sides so that the entire top surface is free to plane.

An important part of using a jointer plane is the motion used to run the tool over the wood board you are flattening. Two hands are used with the tool, so the natural thought is that you can simply move the tool back and forth or side to side.

This could work, but will not be very efficient. Be sure to note the direction of the grain, and plan to plane as much as possible along that same line. Grip the back handle with your rear hand, making sure that your index finger does not try to find a place to rest on the iron or chip breaker.

Pressing against these can knock the lateral adjustment out of whack. Make sure your forearm is in a straight line behind the jointer plane following the direction of the sole. With the front hand, hold onto the tote, or front handle, with a comfortable strong grip. Lean forward, putting the strength and stability of your body behind it. It is a real pleasure to use and is probably my favorite plane. It now has another life and is preforming quite well. I know that they are often mocked, but I really like my 26 inch Stanley transitional plane for jointing.

Easy to keep the bottom flat with the adjustments of a metal plane. First, the plane was unbelievably flat except at the very toe and for a bit of the heel. I decided that flattening this particular plane would be a waste of time and that it was good to go. I replaced the blade with a Hock blade, and I think that may have been a waste of money.

So, the pitting in the old blade never would have mattered. What would you suggest as a fix? Could I just drill and peg? I have used it and does work albeit with a lot of messing Thanks Gary.

Could I just drill a pin hole through? Thanks Gary. I managed to buy a Stanley N07 and it was as flat! I do have a x x granite block, so flattening the sole was not going to be a problem. This is a really nice plane to use and the addition of a Hock blade made it even better. I am closing in on finishing my workbench, and I have prepared a couple of blanks for wooden jointers. I have a Veritas iron and cap for the jointer and some kits for a jack.

It will be interesting to see how it goes. I have an old beaten p wooden jointer. Maybe I should just go ahead and build a new one. Salco, it sounds like your beaten up piece of firewood is still performing like an old friend should, and I do like the idea of your long LN gathering dust. My Joh.

I used it on my planing board project which went on to be my frist and only woodworking bench. I believe. Is it not possible to build to build some kind of boot to install a No. I would think it should be easier than a whole plane. Is there one on the way. You happy with that english pattern ECE Jack plane in the background of the second picture? I got a good but incredibly heavy bedrock pattern jack plane and want something lighter….

I have a jointer plane from a Glasgow brewery. It is seven and a half feet long, 2 feet high and one end the other end rests on the floor.

Midway two legs.

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