Naturally, this jointer needs a lot of work before it can be used. One of the sides is at a perfect 90° to the sole, however, the other one is at about 87° to the sole (meaning that the sides are not parallel). If I'll ever have to use it on shooting board, I'll use the good side. However, the big problem is that the sole is nowhere near flat. The shape is concave along the length, and somewhat across too.  Even though the marker pattern indicates that the ends and the sides of the sole have been flattened, placing the jointer against flat granite revealed that the ends are still way too high. I have no idea why the sandpaper didn't fix the ends - maybe it isn't pressed against granite well enough, springs up, and follows the concave shape of the sole?. When flattening a plane sole, you just don’t go over belt belt sander or sandpaper all over: that would be ok if you were to equalize the surface, remove high spot all over, but still not flatten. A point mentioned everywhere is the banana shape, which is to be cautious about, but I did not have that situation. But with a convex shape (like a bridge) you would not simply rock the plane over sandpaper because that is going to flex the plane (say a joiner plane) and still take forever. You could do it unless very cautious to not flex the plane and have a very low grip. I’m taking the layout flu. This bed allows the plane to be used for internal corners in similar fashion but not so tightly as we might use the bullnose plane.  Here you can see that the cutting iron is wider than the plane sole. This is standard, necessary and altogether intentional. It’s not uncommon for people to feel the overly wide blade width to almost all planes made for rebating was down to shoddy workmanship when that is not the case at all.  Great advice, as always! This saves me a lot of time as opposed to flattening the entire shoe. My instinct told me to consult you first before doing any remedial work, and I was right to do so. Many thanks! Baguette on 22 November at pm. Hi, i find it difficult to set the blade parallele to the sole of the plane. Reece Eagle on 13 December at am. The plane appears unused. The original iron is not honed and there are no fore-aft planing marks. Under a raking light, the transverse factory flattening marks can be seen on the sole. The plane has various “shelfwear” marks and scratches as pictured but retains crisp edges throughout the metal and the wood infill. The mouth is immaculate. 2 1/2” original Norris / Sorby iron. End date: Feb 14, May 20,  · For a jointer plane or a smoothing plane, I start to get concerned when the sole is out in a critical area by more than″. I have found that errors such as that can cause problems. So what do you if the sole is out of whack? If it’s a jointer plane, I’ll usually pass on the tool and keep looking. I have had difficulty in the past. The sole is mm (22") long with a 60mm (/8") wide blade. The sole of the plane is flat and accurate to +/- mm ("). At kg (/2lb) it slices through knots and difficult grain. Rider planes only require the bare minimum of initial preparation. The blade comes honed with a .
I would expect my friend's shop grinder to be that old. Attached Thumbnails. Thread Tools Show Printable Version. Register Forgot password? Dust Collection.

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