His goal was to create a ta hie that would be the centerpiece of the room, yet be functional and Interactive by being able to easily change shape. For glue-ups. Bold Joinery for Casework. The sculpture is 13 in. Simple Woodworking Assignments — Extra Strategies Very simple woodworking initiatives dine be identified in all manner of fine woodworking issue # 209 ko on the world-wide-web and offline. The upper wheel is crowned and the Made needs fa run on the center of it.

Tor one without. Turn a miter square Into a mitering jig I struggled to cut mitered frames with my star] danl Lableaaw miler gauge: getting ugly galas in the joints no mailer how rairefully I tried to seL the miter gauge lie exactly. Finally iL occurred to me that, iF all the cults in a Mitered Frame are made in the same way on the same miter gauge, any errors are incremental.

An error of 0. IF made a small error on c me cut: it oould he corrected by making. These stainless-steel tools are very aocurate, and are available aL Amazon and aL woodworking outlets for around. Ilme this way,. I attached foram pads aL the Lop on both sides: so the tool will lie horiztinUlly on a saw table.

AL the other end, the fence clamps to the edge of the table with a simple. The nail acv; like a grader: spreading the. The common trick for keeping an aerosol nozzle clear of dried palnt or finish after spraying Is to turn the can upside down and spray for a few seconds.

Trouble Is, each time you do this you lose aerosol pressure and—as I've found many times—you end up with a can still containing material and no way to get It out. To avoid this, I keep a small. Shop Our Online Store F in elnioodworking. II acwoodwork lin. Any time the thickness of your work-. So swapping various parts and patterns dr esn't require any additional effixrt or time. I think the 1. Ono size file ail. So I was happy to give the new VeriLas small bevel-up smooth plane a road test.

Used on its side, it's great for shooting small paris such as box sides. The plena is large enough for a two-handed approach, but it can be handled easily with one.

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That's why I was excited to try the Musclechuck, an aftermarket replacement collet that clamps and releases hits quickly when you tighten or loosen a single socket screw, with sizes available to fit most popular routers.

I put the Musclechuck through a little torture test by cutting a ha Ifdozen mortises in hard maple lable legs. I also used a dial indicator to check ru nout on a straight bit installed in both the existing chuck and the Musclechuck The difference was less than 0. The Musclechuck works well Tab handheld routers, and it excels in table-mounted routers, where bit access can be more restrictive. Diode La dos for rip ord cudea cur. It ie oleo perfect far cram cdlirrg achi woade.

In fent 1herea Ccrrp3retie Ueda ]n ha market tam. The P'y Veneer'. JEEB the. II features ' rock, 73 teeth. OM www. F-lulAi -. Arrange the tools an the foam, then trace around each arra Cul along the tines with a knife and pall out the waste with your Finders. Keep cutting Mall the recess is deep enough Lo hold Lhe uml securely ha shallow enough to grab easily. I used Lht fo ram to hold raider hits and Lo organize plants in a workbench drawer, but iL would also he perfect for bolding sawhladcs and chisels and other hand tools—no muLLer the shape.

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This is critical on cuts like rabbets or molding. When of the blade. Ortherwise, it will jam the off out against the no material is left against a fence or table to resist the blade, possibly causing the piece to kick back violently. You have to make these yourself, but this three-out type is quick and easy, and works for any situation. MA the ponce and set the featherboard's finger. For cutting grucves in a lonscr wxyrkpitce, such as a drawer.

Then cut a slight curve efong the acids. With both of these cuts. In those C;Dini, 2. Set the workpiece against the rip fence and butt the featherhoarcf against rt. Use medium pressure The workplace should be MEd age inst. Lechnique L learned fnyrn renowned teacher Will Neptune. In those cases, a fealtberbE rand will prevent your hand from accidentally touching the blade if your attention WELndelli.

At the router table. FeatherbE anis are also a frequent ownpanicri at the router table. Many cornrnerdai router tables and Fences comeequipped with '1'-tracks, miter slots, or both, rrraking. For raised panels and tall workpieoes, move the- feethertmard above the blade and use a tall auxiliary fence. Raterrl Prreln!

ED U marordverrnisiowalarietpkne I an0. As the lender in wood glues, we want you to know the truth about polyurethane glue and woodworking. Re nee InifffracH, Ai a add e4rniarixii. IF, LED. Stepped surfaces area telltale sign of cuts made with. When routing rabbets, I use a single fraihrdxyard attached to the fcnoe.

Fositi4m iL as j Attach a fritherhxrard to the router table when cutting molding pw 56les. Featherhx]ard will keep the lvorkpiect. Lock it dawn. Sloiled featherbeards attach to the T-tracks on sorrro routertabie fences, but you can use shoomade featherboards if your fence has.

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DC noareolooruno. Pencils typically don't enter into the because a drawn line is supposedly less accurate. Elul a pencil line c.. At North Bennet Street Scher! A sharp pencil marks a lint that's just as accurate, but doesn't damage the WC Md. I stand the pin board on the face grain of the tail soared.

All of the wood between the pins will Femme the tails, so it FhatosLuintrhney. Marking knives ere accurate, but they also cut Into Woad that's part of the finished joint so you end up with one that's either gapped or loose.

A pencil is just as accurate but doesn't damage the wood. When transferring the tine around the comer the trick is to set the Dana' in piece Rrst 2 , placing the point axed , where the tine on the face of the board meats the edge. Pare to the tine. This makes it easier to control the depth of cut. If you trace the pills with a knife, prtitsing it firmly against the pins, you cut ink wucd that will he put of the tails. If you later remove that scribe line when paring the tails, Lilt joint may he tuo bust.

As you surihe around the Inaf, the knife MIS A sharp pencil avoids those problems. A far hie No. After sharpening it in a pencil sharpener, use P22 1-grit sandpaper to sharpen it Lo a finer point, twirling it in your fingers as you do so.

As I mentioned, 1 cut pins first. Theygi the wowed wood. For accuracy, the fiat back of tne knife must gn against the hinge. That means the bevel Moes alit, Silting wood :leers thaf aren't part of the mortise. From here: just a maLLor taf besting the fit and paring until the joint comes together.

Cut a hinge mortise that always Fits to a sloppy Iii. It's natural' to re the mortise wall back until the mt. But We Off to scribe for the side. The bevel' are a! Work Inward to remove the waste.

Start above the scribe iine marking the depth and get rid of the waste quickly. Then pare to the line. SA:ribt the lino. After marking the hinge's length, use a marking gauge the kind with a cutting knife, not a pin Lu mark its Width and depth. It can be used For those lines because the bevel cuts into the waste.

Next, chop out the waste, staying about Vie in. Then, carefully pare back to the hoes, by pacing the chisel edge ink the scribed line and pushing. L rile-woodwork in g. No gaps.

This is haw a trinkge should fit its mortise, and ifs woof pencil's can be accurate layout tool's. Tbds siroplidty is a virtue, however, and Is the reason the router is so inaseditily But the muter needs same help to unleash its fall power. One way with 0] The wst lot this Wed Yenutility is a few ".. Elinerfe the beau- Adding a partial bottom Layer above prevents the bass from bumping into the projections you ward to trim flush, like the solid edging on the veneered panel at right.

He starts with a climb cut en the oirtannost edge to reduce bearout The bit is set to 'leave just a bit of edging to be scraped and sanded finsh. Corian so the base will move easily on a surface. Two has that simplify flush-I:rimming The oversize have can he modified for trimming a row of projecting dcm..

Srnaffar flush-trimming base. This square base is great For flush-trimming tenons and pegs. It offers support for the rotifer on both sides of the bit.

Set the router fail so it is just above die surf-ace you're trimming down Lo. For mortises near the end of a workpiece, you might need to leave some extra length at first to Rirroart t.

When building the lyase, ifs crucial to locate the pins accurately. Finally, insert smooth dowels—not the kind with ridges—or metal pins ink the holes. A better way to 14 caLe the holes is with a self-centering dowel jig, used in an unconventional way.

You can then enlarge the hole for Lhe router hit to whatever you need. An imiNnety layout foal. Register the jig or a straight strip. Clamp the strip in Waco arra' align the fig with it before marking and drilling the first hole. With its rounded edges, stepped! Tides, square pegs, and distinctive cloud-lift patterns. The profiles are cut with a jigsaw or handsaw and cleaned up with And die carving: dune with a marking knife and chisel; is agcxxJ inthxliction Ltl surne basic carving techniques.

Jolnnry first '13e frame fits a standard mat LhaL is 18 in. L cut the Lenons on the stiles at We tablesaw using a dads blade, and used a shoulder plane to finetune the fit of the ten ma. But it's easy to da. Mortises first. A holhow-chisel FrOCIFtblilr makes quick work of the mortises, berf you car aiso use a drill press and square the corners with a chisel'.

Eire ft up. Math the edges of the rabbeting bit on the router-table fence and align the marks with those are fhe workplace. Pivot in to start the cut and pivot out to stop the rabbet. Square the edges. Mark the ends of the rabbet with a knife and then square them with a chisel. Nibble away, working toward your scribe lines. MIN, make it easy to out symmetrical curves and align the pegs. Mal prop. Ilse a sandirre block to dean up the edges and shape the templates as perfectly as posstbte.

It's easiest Lo cut Lhe rabbeth aL a Diekuieerrible the frame, rabbet the rails: and use a chisel to square the rabbeted Lornera. Half-templates ease curves 'Ube cloud-lift patterns rm the rails are anrither design elcenenl.

Lhem using half-templates fur each rail. The templates ensure both riides cif the profile will he syrnmeLric-al, and they also locate the holes for the peg mortises. Make the templates From a piece of MDE2 that is the same Width as the rail: and a few inches mine than half the length. Dth hares once. Mark the peg holes en one template and tape ft to the other to drill a matched set of holies. Stay about 'Aim to the waste side.

You can use the scale drawing 1. The largest can will U1S. C1 help later when carving. Then drill the loin. Cut the holes at the dull press: using a piece of scrap in the frame multiries to prevent blowout. After drilling, uric reandpaper or a handplane to surface the workpieces, and round over the edges of the rails and stiles with a handheld router. Start the carving by placing the largest can on one of the inside carves en the frame. Scribe around Lhe can with a marking knife to sever the woucl fibers.

Ilse a 1-in. Start with right front. Then use the in. Rout a corner. Rout the other. Flip the workpiace end-for-end and reatach the template. Rout the corner end then transfer punch the remaining holes for the pegs.

Thansfer punch. With the template in piece on the front of the tails, use drX hits to mark the peg locations. Round all the edges. Round over alb edges with a router and a in.

But avoid the shoulders of the stiles. The same can used to make the tem plates extends the curves onto the frame, and guides the carving. Line up the can on the proEle and continue the curved fine.

The knife rine gives the paring cuts right? Recur the line as needed. Square the pod bales. Drill' out the peg holes, inserting a piece of scrammed into the mortise to prevent blowout. Then square the holes with a hollow-ohiser rrrortisiag bff or a square hole punch see below. Crisp curves. Square up the Inside corners left round by the router hit.

Then pare along the edge to extend the rem:haver. C44 the korfs. A thin-keif blade wilt make straight cuts with minima waste—a bonus with expensive, excite woods like ebony: Durithn uses a scrap piece to hold the block against the fence. Softon socoad. Pillow the pegs by rounding the chamfered ends err a piece of grk sandpaper on top of a folded napkin. Than tap the peg down to just the right height. Ending jointer knives out For sharpening in inounvenient enough, but rye also been unhappy with the results.

I've tried half a dozen sharpening services over the years, and the edges were rarely very fine and often quite coarse. Also, re-setting the new knives IC perfection is a 1. Fur years, I've 'been trying to devise a reliable way lu get may sharp knives without having In remove Lhern from the cutterhead. Any Freehand method wami'L aoarratc enough.

And then Icame up with this jig. Ii is simple to make and can he adapted easily to your own machine's dimercirans. This 'NV sharpening rig acrin't cc ropletely replace the need for a sharpening service- if your knives gcl. However, a hobbyist who uses his machines carefully should get ymmi of use before having to remove.

Lock the head in place To ensure that each of the knives is sharpened at the same angle and left at the same height, it is critical that the outterhead is locked in the same position when each knife is sharpened. If you sharpen the knife when it is at its apex. As the infead table is lowered, the dowel in the locking jig rotates the cuttertiead clookwiee, moving the knife from approximately 1. Now you can hone the bewail at an an.

Hone a microbevel Your aim is to remove -only enough metal to gut rid of any small nicks in the knife. This secondary bevel should be much r smaller than the main bevel. Protect the fable. Apply some self-edhestva plastic laminate sheet feerailey corn. This will protect it from the sharpening stones. Sharpen tft fulife. Race the fine grit side of the diamond stone on the knife with about half its 'Length on the oulfeed table.

You can also rise water- or oilstones, or sandpaper on plywood. Draw the stone toward the owned fa-. Ws, to avoid creating a burr below, raft?. Lift the shirrs back over the knife and repeat Ma step. Set the depth of cut. Lower the outfeed fable until a block of wood representing the sharpening stone just thuches the knife.

A strip of copier paper should just slip under the wood at the start of the ouffeed table. Check your progress. Before surilching to the 1,grit side of the stone, use a magnifying glass to check the microbevel. The width doesn't have to be uniform, but it must extend along the Mr length of the knife inset?. You will automatically stop cuffing when the tip of the knife is no longer proud of the outfeed table Next knife.

If you go from left to right and meats a tiny burr. Tablesaws Under Siege U. C tableoaw is a cornerstone tic!. Bi4t the saw hax a built-in ri:4,. If rrrade r,adr. S, portable and aratimmy. Unisaw sets tGa standsird for Amorfcam saws. A bend-clop raw with flesh-sensing, blade-braking technology has not been pnwen in the marketplace, though. The ruling would not just affect benchLop saws.

IL would require entire labLesaw lines, including canntractor and cabinet models, to have the technology, raising prices on a]] iiaW7i. U avoid costly changes 1. So how did Lhe C. Spotlight on tablesaw Injuries e CiPSC had been looking al the lociclenoi of tablesaw injuries since the early 19'90s. The UL issues a mandate UL 9g7 on safety gear. Common on European saws for decades, this effective anti-kickback device was not adapted by U. You don't have Lu be a Fine WILIfiritp-orkitas editor to know that many wc3rxiworkers discarded those old, inconvenient systems, or that European saws had superior safety guards for years that included riving knives.

Enter the Inventor ]n 17 9, ;Stephen Gass, a patent attorney and amateur woodworker, had an idea that could make Lablesaws dramatically safer. Putting his accurate in physics to work, he designed the SawStop device, which uses sophisticated electronics to sense contact with human flesh and then trigger a brake system that!

He also gave Ryol-3i prototype to test Gass wasn't interested. And yet Gass's invention hadn't yet been proven to work in the real world. IL was a Lough decision.

In , SawStop and ERyobi came close Lo a licensing agreement However, the deal was never closed, and people involved in the negotiations differ as Lo why. One World 'Technologies, Inc. Jine of saws with his innovative safety device inside.

Controversial verdict. A Massachusetts jury awards. Hardwood Flooring in Massechuseas, working. DT the go. He testified that he was using the saw on the floor, that both die blade gu:ard and fence were removed. Clearly, he was. As issue goes LO press, there are at least 50 other tablesaw lawsuits pending against various manufacturers.

We've even. Never in my 30, 35 years of working with them] had I ever been exposed Lu something where they said 'let's 8reL together and develop something. As this issue goes to press, there are 50 other tablesaw lawsuits pending Lo develop their own brand.

While they were working with designers on a saw, Crass and his partners petitioned the CFSCI in to do something about Lhe large number of Lablesaw accidents that were occurring yearly, asking for a ruling that would require all tablesaws to have some sort of flesh-sensing technology and bladestopping device.

Oscan in. One World Tachnalo gins Carlos sort moved 1. Trained as a computer technician in his home country, he was unable to find similar work in the United. He turned of the saw cleaned aawduat and chips From the saw's throat and top, and tried again.

Like before, the workpiece started LI-uttering, but instead of turning off the saw, OsoriE pushed harder. Before he knew iL, the wurkpiece had kicked back and his left hand had plunged into the blade.

In cases like this, the victim, or plaintiff, gets whatever money is left over after the insurance company gets reimbursed and all legel fees are paid. The individual manuFacturers contacted were tight-lipped about it all, dting pending litigation. However, the PT1 has a lot LE :. Their first argument has to do with the injury presented by the CPSC..

Do the numbers tell the whole story? The CPSC. Crmichlop SawStop. Shown hare is a prototype far a modal he Warn to have ready for production mat summer. The projed was handed 3vcr Lo Lhe joint venture grp of the PT1 but wa. Peter torrieny, defense witness. One If the key arguments during at Osorio trial was the cx out of putting the Saw. Gass and Durneny built iesti LOE1 much, said the They Also say!

The CPSG. IleCaLl2it the voluntary standards are written by manufacturers, be yaid during the 01A1rin "Ws a completely perfect example oaf the fox guarding the henhouse. They write the standards and then lacy cum ur ouurt and try Lai LLSC them as a Shield uo protect themselves and Nay, 'we met the standards?

They pnoduer a finer polish than boil oil and dams WILl. CS, and arc more durable and less expensive in the long run than camel piper. NaturAl wateniumes have been quarried for centuries and have always been highly prized. Bear in mind that waterstones are hest used fin- homing a small, seLx ndary bevel, not grinding the primary one So, I locked cti.

Synthetic walerstones have a reputation for dishing quickly, and you can't get a flat, straight cutting edge From a dished sLont. L then tested how. You wont e stone that Is easy to keep That cuts quickly, and sharpens your tools well enough for woodworking.

He worked the center. Gochnour took Fit-ekes with a plane blade in a honing guide. He added a weight to the guide so that the pressure was consistent through aril of the tests. A dished stone won't sharpen edges consistently, so one that dishes quickly will need frequent flattening. Gachnour Elartod with a flat stone. CM pp. Durability and maintenance lb see how quickly the stones dish, 1 based my methods on Lhe elegantly simple ways that Lee Valley LesIs the waLcrstunm they.

Next, I to the stones over to my workbench, and dished them with a plane blade see LON, above. After that, 1 measured Lhe stones' height again, which told me how much material had been removed. Al] of the 1,grit stones dished. However, none of the 8,grit ritoncis dished enough for me to measure, which means you won't need Lo flatten them as often. After the stones were dished. Because the 8,grit moms showed The disappearing lines test.

Heeling speed NexL, 1 tested the stones lea see how quickly they cut both A2 and 01 Met]. P'erfermance 'L13c nnrt stage of testing! The less lime you spend honing, the more time you spend woodworking. Scratch test. To test each stone, Gochnour first used ft to parish the entire beveir then scratched the bevel OR a rougher stone. Hato many strokes? I started with an endgrain paring Lest, using an 01 steel paring chisel to Lake a shaving across the end grain of a basswood board.

First, I camped the board in a wooden clamp SO that its end stuck up D. I rested the chisel on the clamp's jaws and pushed it across the entire width of the board.

After removing the shaving, 1 graded the quality of Lhe surface left behind. L then did an end-grain planing Lest, using a VeriLas lowang. I clamped a 1-in.. In addition u3i evaluating the surfaue quality left aftenvard, I alma considered how much force was needed to push the plane across the board. End-grain atingle a tough job. It fakes a vary sharp edge fo slice end-grain fibers cleanly. Long grain, too. The goal was to get a thin edge-grain strewing the furl width and length of a 6-ft.

Even the most dished ones can be done In lass than a minute. All that being said, Gochnour's tests discovered significant differences between stones. The Sigma stoney. Chuacra and Sharon stones. Mind you, we are talking tiny degrees here. KiLayama 8, The Chasers have the smoothest cutting action of all the stones tested and create a nice slurry during use.

The 8,grit stone produced an excellent polish, but the stones are net well-mourrted o-n their plastic bases. To see if they would produce a bett er edge than the lower-grit polishing stones, I subjected thorn to the same performance tests. The 16,grit stone produced a polish comparable to the best standard polishing stones, and the 30, Yet, despite the polish, neither stone produced en edge that performed better.

L'Ve distilled what I've learned through the year int. L start with an old cahin. Then 1 fit the drawer front to its opening. Ws easy lo Lake that rine hoard and plane ills ends and edges fie o that it fits perfectly into the opening: even if the opening itself is slightly out of wittare. L then make the sides and back to match the formL There's nothing new about these steps.

Function as Dee as the form. The drawer must work wt.! Instead of marking and cutting my dcweuaLls so that the pins are proud, 1 leave Lhe drawer sides slightly proud. That makes gluing the drawer together much easier and Lakes all the hassle out of fitting iL All you need Les do is plane the sides down to the pins and the drawer slides right in.

Taper the packet A drawer fits into a pocket. And you won't get a truly good fit for the drawer unless you take care when making the puckec 'rey ean he made in variety of ways and. The bank helps prevent binding.

For a cabinet with solid-wc Dud sides dovetailed into a top and hou. Step 2. Fit the drawer front Get this part right and the reet of the drawer is no problem, beoa USG. As a result, the drawer fits nicely with very little planing after the glue is dry.

You'll need a shooting. Mane sway eery machine marks, keeping It straight and square as you do. You want en even gap then big enough to accommodate seasonal movement Cie-arr up the bottom edge. This is your reference. Flt the drawer front to Its opening. After you have the cabinet aissernhicd, mill the drawer Front to near final thicknem and rip it Lu width. Et should ho just narrow enough tn. Now turn off the machines.

The way to gd. And a shooting board lets Shoot the Jolt orxl. Put the bat-. Plane Lhe hultnrn edge of the drawer Front to remove milling marks and to ensure that iL in straight and square.

IL should be parallel Lo the left side of the drawer pocket. After the left end has been fitted, it's time to gcL really careful. That brings the end of the drawer front parablel to the side of the pocket right. MovemenL Reference Guide lcevalley. Lxim, No. Prep the ether parts and ea the dovetails The drawer sides and hack are next. Rip boil sides su alai they are as Call as their mating ends on Lie drawer front.

Head hack to the shouting hoard and square up both ends bring them to their final length in the pnx2ess , registering the bottom edge against Lhe fence. Mind the gap. What's important is an even gap along the top, so don't worry if the top and bottom edges aren't parallel. The exact size of that gap depends on what time of year your fitting the drawer. Make it smaller in summer than you would in winter. The front already fits the opening snugly. To avoid ranichrIng tan much from the pins when cleaning up the joint after assernblyr haws the sides proud and phone thorn Hash.

Leave the Ors sa little short. Set your gauge fo rrrark the fait's' depth on the drawer front. As soon as the glue sets, pull up the tape, leaving a clean corner. Shuct its ends Lo match those of the frfmt, making EL the same length or a hair longer, but never shorter.

I use dovetails to juin the parts! However, there is one step that is cdtit-al Lo my fitting process. When laying ouL the pins, ivet your marking gauge Just a hair shallower than the thickness of the The sides will be proud after assembly, but you'll plane them flush to ends of the drawer front. Now glut together the drawer. A few quick shavings and the drawer slides In like a pistol! After the glue has tined: Lake off the damps and gel your handplane ready for action.

Planing drawer sides can he tricky, because vises don't hold assembled drawers very well. Su, 1 use a simple jig made fro nn a piece 4 DE 1A. LL has notches cut deep enough RI hold Lhe widest drawer and spaced ml that you can plane the sides and front. The side is: supported by the m you have a good flat surfaue for planing. But the drawer isn't clamped in, so you can quickly move from rme drawer side LC.

Another benefit Of wend aloes. Because the sides are proud of fhe pins, you don need any special Gauls,. Step 4. Plane for a perfect fit Here's when you see the Dig payoff for flirting the drawer front first. After planing the shies dawn to the pine. It takes Just a few mare shavings far the d rawer. Do the Odes nrsi. This simple jig horn's the drawer box much better than a vise can for this job. The slots are spaced so the sides arrd the final and beck oar, be planed. And you don't need to clamp the drawer in place.

Before doing Lhat, put lie drawer on a Flat surface, such as your tablem. Plane any high spots unLi] iL dOeS. Now you are ready to fine-tune the drawees fit. Slide it into the pocket to get a sense of how tight it is. Pull iL out and Lake a few cc neerwaLive shavings from lx th sides. That slic uld be enough for Lhe drawer Lu gently swish back into its opening, but keep in mind the seascm in which you're winking.

Now it's on to Lhr bottom You might not think that making Lhe lictiom is pant of fitting the drawer, hut iF you get it wrong it could fall mit in the winter or push the drawer front out of the pocket in the summer.

Al the hack, I cut opened slots in the bottom. I use washer-head screws, but you can cut a wenLer-sunk A A. Romero rises a jack plane a smoother works, too , which is long enough to maintain. Because there is so iiiffe material to remove inset , he sets it fora beg shaving. After planing the sides, take a Few shavings from We tap edge of the drawer front. Also, you can cut veneer from the same hoards you use for solid wood, providing harmony throughout a project. Furniture made this way stands out from the arranged marriages of cornmerdal veneer and solid wood.

Successfully yawing and using your own veneers isn't difficult. No method of -ripping or resawing is hetLer than a handsaw.

Fteita:rAlege of the Fedwonds. The first thing to consider is the blade. A resaw blade needs deep gullets that can eject all of Lhe yawdusi. Seamhisis Olivier". George C. Even if yOU have the blade set up just right, ymi might have Lo negotiate for drift, the tendency for the stock Lo wander away. Estimate that you'll he cueing five veneers from 1 in. Oust likely: you will he able get at least six veneers: but pessimist is rarely dimippointed Plan to cut the veneers slightly under 'A in thick ]f you are cutting a width greater I.

Now you are ready to TeSaW. Start by surFacing one fact of the hoard and then squaring an edge Li it. After each cut, lightly joint Lhe sawn surface. In your first outing plan LEY cut veneers aboui 4 in. Additionally, it pro-. The upper wheel is crowned and the Made needs fa run on the center of it. A small' fweali may be ail that is necessary. Spin the wheel a few turns to see that the blade has settled in the right position,. To find out if your blade wards to drift one way or the other as it cuts, draw a straight fine on a scrap piece, parallel to its edge, and move the rip fence out of the way.

How try to out along the Line. The angle you need to hold the board at is the angle of drift. Hold the scrap at that angle and turn off the Adjust the guides. Back the guides and thrust. You should just barely be able to see light between the gullies and the blade. Mark the edges and ands of the board so you know leldrich side the banding came from and the order in which the veneers were cut.

A few tips From a pro. Mart al the joinder. Joint one face and one edge of the board. These wilt be your refere-nce points against the table and fence. Affer each bandsaw cut, roioinf the same face of the board to maintain a solid reference and give you a jump an smoothing fhe veneer. Stack the veneers in order. Use acklffional support such as rollers if the stock is long. Slip-watch regular. Race the first leaf on the bench, fay the second next to it and so on with no Ripping.

Of course these are only starting point A phenomenon known as chatoyance often OCCUri. One icaf may seem brighter than another. The effect may be most apparenL on vertical surfaces. A Ilia- for three faavas. Bookrriatonfrig can Jock awkward wilh three leaves Jetty. Consider turning the middle leaf end-.

For ere-catakrg figara,12coir-rnatek. Now look at each of those options upside dawn. With just two leaves, you already have four choices. Claw two Fences to a work tab. The resuting angies wiU NI. When you are ready to glue Lhe veneer leaves together to t-reate a 'bigger panel, you must Furst joint the edges. If you go with tape, do iL On both sides: use more strips than you would clamps, and pay extra attention to keeping the veneer surfaces flush with each 11ther.

The exposed substrate edge makes iL easier to trim the pane] to Finished dimensions. Lhe piece to length before ripping it to width. An aboattary 'swine hoops tiro thin veneer burn 5. Use multi-ply birch EFT Maple ply Inless your veneered panel in trapped in a frame-and-panel t. If you followed lily advice and out the banding from a board before it was rrawn for veneers, your edging matches the 1.

Captured bindings, about 34 in thick, are glued Lea Lhe substrate before Lhe veneer is applied. Here, an applied edge-banding would be a visual disturbance and look like a production job on shop plywood. Applied edge-banding to glued LEI the substrate after the veneers; are in place and is rarely more Lban in.

A panel can look like a solid lx ard if the Lop and thirri are captured and the sides are applied. Applying handing at the sides of the door also allows For the shaping of overlapping ralibrLs where Now crosscut. To-prevent fearout on the Gower edge support the out with an extra piece of plywood on the base of your crosscut shirk creating zero clearance around the Wade. Glue two opposite sides at a fine, trim the handing to lengthr and than band the other two sides.

Should be of a Mini. Pressing Wetter manes smaller work with hand clamps and reefs to distribute pressure. Larger panels oo In a Vhcourn bag. Robatik Welter goes through a dry rim First, and uses blue tape to keep the veneers aligned. Or apply edge-banding after veneering SNOW Men twang Silted be siterfry wider than the panel is thick Blue tape helps with alignment but isn't enough. Caulks and Camps must be used to keep this visitileibint. Plane banding Mush altar the glue datum. Wetter uses one plane set for a thicker cut Initialfiy, and then switches to another plans to take thin cuts and Hush the banding to the panel.

Shape the dividers and rails In Part J. Mid-Century Credenza. Thick Tabletops from Thin Stock. Easy Angled Tenons. Stop Those Drawers. Get to Know Japanese Handplanes. Sleak and Shapely Coffee Table. Display Cabinet on a Stand. Combo Squares: The Basics and Beyond. Pick the Perfect Hinges for Your Boxes. Custom Scrapers for Custom Work. Tips for Stronger Tenons.

Shoulder Your Dovetails. Turn a Lidded Canister. A Small, Sturdy Workbench. Dust Collection for the Small Shop. Under-Bench Tool Cabinet. Polyurethane Is My Go-to Glue. Build Your Own Handsaw. Stand Up to This Desk. Essential Clamp Kit. Tablesaw Sled for Miters. How Pros Look at Lumber. Hand-Built Home for Hand Tools. Strategies for Squeeze-out. Learn to Love the Skew. Frame and Panel Cabinet. Fast Shellac Finish. Get Better Cuts with Your Planer.

Bold Joinery for Casework. Use Vintage Glass for Cabinet Doors. Build a Simple Stool. Make Your Own Bandings. A Table for 2, 4, or 6. Tool Test: Track Saws. Learn from Antiques. Sleek Box with a Sliding Lid. Which Waxes Work Best. Marriage of Metal and Wood. Turn a Bowl. Small Cabinet Is Big on Details. Sanding on the Drill Press. Stow-and-Go Sharpening Box. Add Muscle to your Miters.

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Shopmade Tablesaw Inserts. Restore a Vintage Vice. Clever Countertop. Build Your Shop into the House. The Enfield Cupboard, Updated.

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