Photo 2. At first, linseed and tung oil finishes give cherry a deeper, richer appearance than film-forming finishes like shellac, lacquer and polyurethane. Photo 5. Because the wax in this finish seals the wood much more effectively than using oil alone, much less maintenance is required. By following some basic safety rules, though, you can considerably reduce the risk of injury. Spraying also eliminates brush stokes, and no brushes or rags makes cleanup simple. The 3 mm thick high fine woodworking finishes 01 steel fine woodworking finishes 01 is hardened to 61 - 63 HRC.

I knew I would never cut on the butcher-block counters that I made for my kitchen, because I always use cutting boards. So I finished the counters with oil-based polyurethane. I wanted a durable, waterproof and heat resistant finish that would require minimal maintenance. If you plan to use your butcher block as a cutting board, you could conceivably ingest small amounts of the finish and the wood when you use it.

So you may want your finishing material to contain only ingredients that you personally consider to be edible. This line of thinking probably rules out all synthetic, man-made film-building finishes and leaves the following options for you to choose from. Option 1: Leave the wood bare. This is my favorite treatment for edge-grain butcher-block cutting boards that I use frequently. Photo 3. No finish at all is my first choice for a frequently used cutting board.

Just wash the board with soap and hot water after every use and allow it to thoroughly dry. Just wash the board with soap and hot water after every use and allow it to thoroughly dry on all sides Photo 3. A very interesting study done by the University of Wisconsin in documented that bacteria are much more likely to survive on a plastic cutting board than on wood. Option 2: Apply an oil finish. However, they are not made to be edible. Instead, a heat-treatment process is said to be used to help speed the drying.

My own experiments show that Fine Woodworking Finishes Pdf it takes weeks to dry. It may also contain allergens that even in small amounts could potentially trigger severe allergic reactions in the small portion of the population with tree-nut allergies.

Constant maintenance is required because they wash off easily and must be reapplied frequently whenever the surface looks dry. Food-grade vegetable oils such as olive oil run the risk of turning rancid over time. However, washing the surface frequently with soap and hot water dramatically reduces the chance of this happening. Note: Mineral oil is sometimes marketed as a food-safe finish for butcher blocks at a much higher price than it commands at your local pharmacy. Option 3: Blend oil and wax.

This is my favorite finish for pretty edge-grain cutting boards and wood utensils that I want to keep looking their best. Mixing oil with wax usually mineral oil and beeswax makes an easy-to-use, edible product that seals the wood much more effectively than oil alone, and requires no drying time. Oil and wax blends are made by warming the oil to the melting temperature of the wax and then stirring in the wax.

This melts the wax without adding any solvents and the oil and wax remain in solution even after the mixture cools. The right amount wax depends on the desired thickness of the mixture at room temperature.

More oil makes the mix thinner and easier to apply Photo 4. Just rub it in, let it soak and then buff. Because the wax in this finish seals the wood much more effectively than using oil alone, much less maintenance is required. Just reapply when the surface looks dry—a little dab will do. A mixture that contains more wax offers more protection but is harder to rub in. Photo 5.

These two blends have different consistencies—the oil is thinner than the butter. You can also mix your own oil and wax blend Photo 5. For safety, do not use an open flame. Everyone will see that single off-colored board in the top, but no one will notice if one side of a cabinet is a slightly different color than the other. The color change is so rapid at first that within hours, a partially covered board can Fine Woodworking Pdf 5g develop a shadow line that can be hard to sand out.

After the first couple of weeks, darkening becomes more gradual. At Fine Woodworking Finishes Yoga first, linseed and tung oil finishes give cherry a deeper, richer appearance than film-forming finishes like shellac, lacquer and polyurethane.

Sealing the surface and then applying coats of colored glaze is the way to go. The best way to deal with sapwood is to cut it off, but it can be finished to blend with the heartwood.

Most cherry boards contain extra absorbent spots and pockets of curly figure that are more distracting than spectacular. Before you choose a finish, check your boards for mottling by wiping them with mineral spirits. Film-forming finishes can be applied by wiping, brushing or spraying. Each layer you apply builds the thickness of the film. On cherry, drying oil finishes emphasize a mottled appearance. Film-forming finishes, like shellac, lacquer and polyurethane, minimize it.

Polyurethane disguises mottling and curly figure the best, but it gives cherry less depth than shellac or lacquer. Tung oil and boiled linseed oil soak into the wood, lodging in even the tiniest pores. The deep-amber color of these oils amplifies the effect. If you like mottled cherry, use a drying oil finish.

Wipe-ons are the most worry-free finishes to apply. These finishes are usually rather thick, but heating them makes them less syrupy and easier to apply. Wipe all excess oil from the surface. After the first coat is completely dry, smooth the surface with very fine sandpaper or steel wool and apply a second coat.

These blends also contain solvents to make them easy to apply and driers to make them dry quickly. Wear gloves, a respirator and maintain adequate ventilation. Pure drying-oil finishes contain only tung oil or linseed oil see Sources.

Safety Tip: As boiled linseed oil dries it can generate enough heat to cause a pile of oil-soaked rags to catch fire spontaneously. Spread the rags out to dry, allowing plenty of air circulation around each one I take them outside! Oil finish gives cherry a rich tone, because of its amber color, but the results are unpredictable.

Cherry often absorbs oil unevenly, and parts that absorb a lot of oil look darker. The result is a mottled appearance. Warm oil finish in a bath of hot tap water to make it easier to apply. Keep the oil warm by occasionally changing the water. Note: Never heat finishes on your stove. The first coat of a film-forming finish seals the wood, so successive coats lay on top of each other. Each new coat thickens the finish film. Spraying these finishes from an aerosol can is fast and convenient.

Spraying also eliminates brush stokes, and no brushes or rags makes cleanup simple. But, you do have to deal with overspray and nasty fumes. You can find shellac, lacquer and polyurethane in aerosol cans see Sources.

I think shellac and lacquer look the best on cherry. You can get a good-looking, durable finish by following an initial sealcoat of shellac with topcoats of polyurethane. It leaves cherry looking pale and parched. The secret with aerosol spray is to go easy. Sanding off drips and sags from one heavy coat takes a lot more time than spraying and sanding two light coats.

Wear a respirator and maintain adequate ventilation any time you spray an aerosol finish. Here are some guidelines for aerosol spraying:. Move the can at a steady rate. Move your project around you may even want to turn it upside down to get the best spraying angle. You can spray up and down as well as side to side.

Use a new can for the final coat. Tip: An aerosol tip that sprays in a wide fan pattern is less likely to leave sags and runs. Just look at the nozzle.

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