It would differ table saw to table saw. As an example we select magenta. After the offset the rear and front fence easy woodworking workbench github centered on the blade…is this correct? Great video!! I gothub almost finished building mine with your method. XLength when sketch is used in the non-default plane. For a more detailed comparison of different software solutions tale a look at our CAD for makers article.

Now in Github scroll down until you reach the 0. Look at the instructions about Click on the blue link with that title to be taken to the various releases — download the appropriate latest release for your operating system following the instructions given.

And thank you for the tutorial. I also now have a question. I shall post a question on the Forum and, failing a reply, will try the tutorial without them then try to work out where they should be included and retry it with them. Did you do a search in all your folders? Do you have other files in a A2p folder? If the workbench is working these files should be present in some kind of subfolder where the application data sits. Hi Paul — I was having the same problem trying to find these files on Windows Hello, wayofwood again!

Thanks to you and to all the people for the answers! Sorry for delayed answer…. Everything works fine. There was no need to correct any files or to install v. Can you provide them or tell me where to look? I just posted a detailed tutorial on the box assembly that also links to a zip file with all the files for the box. Thank for the tutorial!!. Can your send an direct link to the post or part list?

I will appreciate it. Hello, I have tried to render a object described by your workflow. However, i was not able to aply the Wood texture. The cmd. If you have Python and Povray installed the script should work. There is a new Assembly 4 that seems to be taking its place. I am wondering what to do about that. I definitely want to make cut lists, and do assemblies. Thanks so much for your insights. I have been a programmer for years. I dablled in CAD a bit, but I am just getting started.

Assembly 4 is quite attractive for woodworking tasks — especially as you can change the content of a part think different drawer pulls. It lacks the handy Part list feature of A2p though….

Thanks for the quick reply! It might be that the file is in a different location in Windows. Could you search for the filenames if they are in a different place? I sketched a mm by mm board as a part in x-z plane an extruded 18mm in y-direction. All other parts of the assembly are in x-y-plane. In parts list 0. After redoing the sketch in x-y-plane and extruding in z-direction parts list is now correct.

XLength when sketch is used in the non-default plane. I have not invesigated any further. Just want to inform you.

Hello, First, let me thank you for this tutorial, this is very instructive and you are doing great work for the Freecad community! I have a problem when trying to render my project. Here is what povray tells me when transforming test. Render failed. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

Skip to content In this article we give an overview on how we design woodworking projects in FreeCAD. Designing a parametric Japanese Toolbox As an example we use this Japanese Toolbox design we use in a variety of sizes.

Part Design After having saved the file with the spreadsheet under the filename Master comes the part that is quite cumbersome. We create a new file for each individual board.

In the part workbench we add a cube. For the cutlist functionality we will discuss later you have to change two files of this addon. Label This will add the dimensions of each board in the table discussed later in the article.

For woodworking projects most of the assemblies can be solved by making planes coincident. Creating a Cutlist After everything is assembled we create a cutlist with the part list button. Creating a drawing Besides the cutlist a drawing is quite helpful when building the final piece. We scale them and add measurements that will help us when assembling the parts. With the default settings the rendering looks bad as it is missing any texture.

In the following we describe how to use a different template file and how to fine tune the result so that it looks like this picture: Optimizing povray renderings in FreeCAD We start with downloading a few files that will help us improving the rendering quality: Download the file WayofWood.

Rendering the image again should result in a cube like this: We can further improve this cube image by saving the povray file to the disk with this icon: to a file test. Under Linux you could go even one step further and create that little shell script:!

Related Posts. Using 3d printed templates for precise routing with no CNC January 17, Previous Article China K40 laser review and material test. Great thanks again! FreeCAD download. Good tutorial. The Assembly 2 workbench is listed as obsolete in FreeCad. Do you have any troubleshooting experience in that?

Also thinking about a second wider sled as I have an extension on the right and occasionally cut longer pieces of salvaged dimensional cypress and southern yellow pin.

Hi Bill, If you can glue the formica on both sides of the runners and get a perfect fit that would be plus. Better wear and tear and and a slick surface. Unfortunately I am still having difficulty registering to your website.

I really want to get this sorted so I can start doing some online courses. This is what happens: I type my email address in and as soon as I start typing a password the register word word disappears. Now this happens on an Android tablet, smartphone and Pc running Windows It should work on your pc.

Online classes will be uploaded soon. Thanks for your patience. My reasoning is as follows. When you start, all four angles of the board are undefined. After the first cut, one of the angles is defined by your fence angle, call it X. The other 3 angles are still undefined. After the second cut, two angles are defined both X.

So when you make the 4th cut you are converting the — 3X corner to X, with the offcut angle making up the difference. In fact, every cut after the 3rd cut i. If my logic is sound, then just save the offcuts from the 4th, 5th, and 6th cuts and they should all measure the same angle. But if I am right, there is no need for a 5th cut. Just stop at the 4th cut. Or if you want to keep cutting, save all the offcuts starting with the 4th offcut and average the angles to get your error.

Hi William, thanks for the video! I love anything that can make my woodworking more precise and reliable. One question though, where did you get the offset numbers? Hi, William. Thanks for sharing your techniques with us! One question, how did you figure the offset numbers?

Any insight? Hi Ryan, The offset is so that you can use the fence to continue with length. The number is not that important.

Thanks, William. Can you offset too much? What if I used an offset of 3 inches? What would be the downside to that? Thank you for the wonderful instruction. I refer to it with each sled I make. Question: does the match change if I am making only a half sled? If so then how?

Well I finally got around to building the cross cut sled. After the the 5th cut I have. Slightly low but I think well within tolerance.

Am I right? I am just having a challenge installing the runners on my sled. When I install them as you have suggested using a shim underneath the runners to make them proud of the table, after installation of the runners, the sled is binding on the table and is almost impossible to push through.

The runners are cut perfect and run in the miter slots individually just fine. I am not sure what the problem is or Easy Woodworking Workbench 11 what I am doing incorrectly. Hi Andy, A couple of things comes to mind. First pre-drill the holes for the screw and make sure the screws are not too big where it spreads the runners.

That might make it tight. If the shim for the runners are too thick and make the runners too proud off the top, when you put pressure in the middle or between the two runners, it puts a curve in it and when you release the pressure it springs open causing it to spread wide and makes it tight.

Try that and see if it helps. Hi William, Thank you for your response. I did pre-drill and I am using the screws you recommended in the video. I may have pushed down in the middle. Not sure. I will do what you suggested and see if it corrects the problem. Hi William, Sorry it took so long to get back with you.

I wanted to share what I discovered which should help others. The issue that I found is the runners had split ever so slightly when I screwed them down. This was caused by using a non tapered drill bit when drilling the pilot holes.

I installed new runners using a tapered drill bit and not it all works. Thank you again for your help. Well, completed sled construction today and went through seven successive attempts to get a perfect 90 degree cut.

Best I could get was 0. Some things I have learned is that wood screws do not do well when screwing edgewise into plywood. What I used had only five plies, and it seems to make a difference when putting the screws in when calibrating the fence. My sled has some ten or so holes in the side opposite the pivot, so I decided to stop with the above error still there.

The last adjustment I did simply by clamping down the pointed block and hitting the fence toward it going up with a rubber mallet. Doing so actually changed the alinement of the rear fence by about 0. Clearly, I have reached the limits of repeatable measurements with the plywood I used. Very frustrated right now. Time for a cool one. Oh, after the brute force method using the mallet, I clamped the rear fence down and put in three more screws to make sure it stayed where I had it.

This worked. While I am commenting, I am thinking that perhaps a metal bar embedded in the rear fence sticking out horizontally an inch with a tapped, threaded hole in it, combined with a small angle bracket that is attached to the sled base with a non-threaded hole in it.

With this you could use a machine screw adjustor that would pivot the rear fence about the pivot screw like it was a micrometer dial, allowing minute adjustments in the angle of the rear fence that can be locked by installing more screws once an exact position is achieved with the adjustment mechanism and then the rear fence clamped firmly before screws are put in through the base into the rear fence bottom.

This, I think, is what I pursue with what I have already built. Well, today I did my micro-adjustor to replace the difficult to execute screw moving technique to come to a final acceptable position of the rear fence.

I installed a standard 90 degree steel angle bracket in a rabbeted trench under the bottom of the sled base at the front edge front being in front of the blade and drilled out the top hole so that a bolt could be passed through it. This worked! Turing the bolt after loosening the locking nuts produces a very small movement in the fence about the pivot. Warning: Care must be taken to make sure that the vertical hole into which the barrel lock cylinder is inserted is a very close fit.

If it is not, then your mechanism will have backlash in it and will be useless. I found that this phenomenon occurs even when you clamp the fence before putting an anchoring screw in the pivoting side of the fence.

This is difficult to describe without being able to illustrate, but I make the comment to let any that wish to know that it can be done. I would like to know if any of you can give me a source for reasonably priced good steel screws. The ones now sold at Lowes and Home Depot are, I do believe, made of case hardened peanut butter!

They strip out when using an impact tool, and, of course, you can solve it by not using the impact tool, but I do want to use the tool because of the speed and convenience of doing so. If anyone knows, I would appreciate the info. I have a bucket full of stripped out headed Philips head screws with round pits in their tops. William, thanks for the videos. Very helpful and was able to turn out a sled with. Now that I have it, I see some enhancements I want to make including a smaller scale sled and adding hold downs.

Look forward to creating the box joint jig this weekend. My wife and daughter have a curio shelf they want me to make that would look good with box joint ends.

Hello Mr. Ng, Thanks for your crosscut sled YouTube video! Do you offer a video on the Gand held jig you used to push small stock through? May I ask where your school is? Thank you so much for your excellent and nicely detailed videos. When I need technical explanations of woodworking techniques, I seek out your videos first. I live in the US. As much as I love the metric system with its simplicity, my tools are not made for this.

This brings me to the difficulty I had calibrating my crosscut sled using your system. Once the initial squaring of the front fence to the blade is complete, and measurements were taken of the 5th cutoff piece. It took several attempts to realize I was not determining correctly whether the error difference in the cutoff piece was a negative or a positive number.

In MY mind, I assumed any number with zeros to the right of the decimal point would be considered a negative number. I understand now how simple a concept this is. And that if the number you are subtracting from is larger, the result will be a negative number, and vise versa. I say all this suggesting you perhaps add this simple clerification to future videos that this may apply to. You know, for the fellow clueless like me! Thank you sir for your huge contributions to the woodworking community.

My first measurement after the initial 5 cut was. I decided to not adjust further — not least of which because I had cut all the way through on one of the test cuts and so had no choice It is hard not to do that as there is little margin for completing the cut without going all the way through.

I would think. For the dust shield, I used Lexan polycarbonate. The local plastic shop Superior Plastic Fab. No worries now about a piece of maple flying at me.

I had trouble keeping the panels flush along their entire length and with all those clamps. Anyway, still works and looks great. So I figured I would come straight to the source. In your writings, and in the video, and in just about every explanation I seem to be able to find, you state that if you can get your sled dialed in to. My question is, where exactly are you deriving that. In other words, are you looking for only a. Or are you finding that error variance after the compounded error is divided by the 4 angles?

Or is it after it is then divided by the length of the 5th cut? By the length of the fence? I hope this question makes sense, and would greatly appreciate your insight on this clarification. I recently re-entered the world of woodworking and am so happy to have discovered your website. Thank you for your wonderfully straight-forward videos. It is a pleasure to watch you work. I want to thank you, the generosity you show sharing your knowledge is above and beyond.

Thats what we do when we are passionate about a skill, art, talent, call it what you will. The glue application using the bayer was amazing, fast, clean and an even coat of glue with very little effort. Will never use another plastic or metal spatula type of glue applicator again.

On to sharing my experience building the sled. My first error learning experience was getting the vertical grain on the runners, for what ever reason my first set of runners I cut with the grain horizontally, I should have turned right instead of left!

Upon my forth attempt of the fifth cut, measurement A 0. I did give out a wahoo in your honor. Depending on the length of your cut, I would leave it alone. William, I love your stuff and would love to attend a class one day. I just upgraded my table saw, again, and always go back to your video on the 5 cut method.

I do this each time for a refresher. It is to the point it takes me 2 tries now. The first time I set the fence with a square, perform the 5 cuts, adjust the fence and am good to go. I am getting very proficient at doing this and got it to. Again thank you for taking the time to make these videos and share your knowledge, good day sir, and be safe! I am having an issue that hopefully someone can help me with. I can get the fence really dialed in with this method. But as soon as I put in additional screws to secure the fence permanently, the setup is no longer square.

After I put in the additional screws they pull the fence out of square. I am clamping the fence to the base, I am pre-drilling and countersinking the screws. I have even tried to clamp the fence to a straight edge that is clamped to the base to try and keep it square when I put the screws in but it is still getting pulled out of square. Any help is greatly appreciated. I used your five cut method. It was easy and gave me a final error of less than.

You nailed this for me. Thank You! I just finished using your 5 cut method on my first table sled! I have gotten sled plans from another site but his explanation of your 5 cut method is no where near clear enough. It took me 4 tries as I was. After watching the follow up video to this, I was inspired by you to write this simple app that can be run from anywhere.

It does the math for you and tells which way to adjust the sled for correction. It is free and can be used by anyone. Your email address will not be published.

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