Drawer Lock Router Bit Instructions Location,Best Small Workshop Air Filter Yoga,Undermount Cabinet Slides Volume - Tips For You
26.09.2020To set the fence, simply set your stock against the fence on either side of the bit, and position another board so that it touches the two outside faces and bridges the bit, as shown above. Note: Other instructions don't mess with the fence until after the bit height is set and tested.
However, I find that setting the fence now eliminates the hassle of a second round of test cuts. Before making a test cut, create a pair of rails a Drawer Lock Router Bit Instructions List couple of inches longer than the test pieces, and attach them flush to the edges of your stock with double-faced tape. Next, set up hold-downs guide rollers or featherboards on the infeed and outfeed fences. Now, rest both test pieces flat against the table and feed them past the bit, as shown top right.
Note: The knife-like mitered edge visible in the foremost board indicates that the fence is correctly set. Detach the test pieces from the rails and try fitting them together. Odds are good that your joint will be a little off. Using the examples shown below, adjust the bit height, recalibrate your fence, and make another test cut.
Rails offer a larger bearing surface. When a board is riding on the table, the rail keeps the piece from tipping into the bit at the beginning or end of the cut.
For both cuts, the rails protect the knife edge, allowing you to exert Drawer Lock Router Bit Instructions 80 more pressure on the outfeed end without the risk of crushing the edge or Drawer Lock Router Bit Instructions Vue end. Lock miter bits come in two sizes. One overlooked advantage to a smaller bit is its versatility. When used on smaller projects, such as jewelry boxes and humidors where tight corners count , a lock miter really shines.
Perfect-fitting lock miters almost always require a little dialing-in. Because the bit is used on both pieces, the gap reflects twice the amount that you need to adjust the bit.
Just as they did during setup, rails make the routing process simpler and safer. Lock miters can help you make legs and other posts; they can also be used with plywood to assemble cases with seamless corners. The mating piece is routed on edge with its inside face touching the fence. As you did for the test pieces, create a pair of rails a few inches longer than your workpieces, and attach them flush with the edges you plan to rout. Set up hold-downs on the infeed and outfeed side of your fence, and rout the edge, as shown in Photo A.
Keeping the edge against the table, feed the piece from right to left Photo B. Note: Routing the joint requires the removal of a lot of material. Chamfering the edge beforehand saves wear and tear on both the router and bit and produces a cleaner cut.
Compared to edges, routing ends poses two unique challenges: taming tear-out and balancing boards when making the face-to-fence cut. Once again, rails can come to the rescue. Using the photos as reference, make the jigs like those shown below. Note: In order to secure the workpiece and control blow-out, the backers must be the same thickness as your workpieces.
Use leftover stock from the setup sequence to ensure an exact match. To rout the face-to-tabletop half of the joint, tack a rail and handle to a backer. Now tape your workpiece in place, and feed the assembly past the bit Photo C. I attached a pair of rails to my backer.
The upper rail guides the piece through the cut; the lower rail keeps the workpiece from tipping or shifting. To use the jig, clamp the workpiece between the two rails, and then feed the assembly past the bit, as shown in Photo D.
You must be logged in to write a comment. Skip to main content. Drawer-Lock Bit. The one-bit solution to strong interlocking joints. Mill the Fronts The unique geometry of a drawer-lock bit creates a strong bond between perpendicular pieces.
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Bink's Lil Wheelbarrow. It takes a while to figure out an exact setup for this, but with a little patcience you'll be making some very nice joints very quickly. When the drawer is viewed from the side, you won't see any joinery, but you can from the top.
I will be topping off mine with strips of oak, to match the drawer fronts. More on that later. First size your panels for width, depth, and height.
Fronts and backs are the same size: full width, and each side is the full depth. The setup is really not that hard. You're going to route the fronts and backs of your drawers with the inside of the parts flat against your router table. Later, without changing the bit height or the fence location, you'll route the sides with the panels against the fence.
The fronts and backs are easy. Make sure the inside of the drawer is down against the table. I like using my miter gauge to guide the stock, but, I tried one with out the guide and it worked ok. You can add a feather board above clamped to the fence if you perfer, tho I didn't notice any of my stock riding up on the bit.
The pic at left shows the inside of the front or rear panel. Imagine trying to pull the front panel off the drawer sides with that tennon sticking out like that Drawer Lock Router Bits.
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