It acts like its starved for fuel. No Leakdown on when key is turned off. Et puis, il y a aussi Dodji, 10 ans, l'ours au grand coeur. I put gas directly down the throttle body and it never hit. If I hit the lock doors button on my door or on my key, only the passenger side works. Have replacement pump on hand just in case. But how do we strengthen ourselves mentally for the truly tough times?

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Oh, I forgot to mention that it is a Ford Ranger 6cyl. I have a F and i cant get it to start but it will crank over. What could be the problem, someone please help me. My F 4. Yesterday, it sat about 30 minutes between run okay for several miles, sit for 30 minutes, fail start on crank, then start on 2nd try and runs fine.

Today it was about 6 hours between start okay, 6 hour sitting, then fail to start, 2nd key turn starts up okay and runs okay. Will check 2nd second FP prime run and pressure check tomorrow. And is this device just a fancy relay that is driven by the PCM? THEN look at the back of it where it mounts on the frame rail you will know if it is bad,believe me,it will be rusted out and shorted on the circuit board,my f 4. Problem of not starting has not repeated today.

I have read all your posts here in this threada nd they are very helpful. Will report back when I find out more. Thanks Again! I'm curious to find out.. Took me 1 whole year to find this truck as its just what I was wanting at an okay price.

Still starting okay. Is it possible to pull bed on this model to replace fuel pump?? If not, possible to cut access hole in cab floor?? I live on a very limited budget and this next 3 years I'll be in the back country sometimes mile from a town.

What about cutting an access door in bed for fuel pump replacement?? Fuel Pump Module Assembly is right there on top of the tank.. Thanks, awesome instructions and feedback. Will post back what I find out and what I end up doing with own pics to share. Tenac1 answered 4 years ago. Tried rubber mallet, still no start I think, like your situation, it has finally died in my driveway. Not sure if i hear it prime or not When i turned it on, i thought i heard the fp for 2 seconds but on second try, i am not sure that i do Hard to tell if i actually hear the fp in the gas tank or not No matter what the outcome, I have learned things and appreciate the info you have provided here!

OR,get helper,remove the gas cap,put your ear real close to where the nozzle goes in if you were pumping fuel at a gas station. Key On: 40 psig. Truck has never had a lot of power but, can tow 2, pound travel trailer easily.

MPG is around on Highway No trailer but, gas hog around town. Are these pressures okay? Thanks, Bobby. No Leakdown on when key is turned off. If just key on and then key off. Pressure to fuel rail remains at 40 psig. No leakdown. Engine still starting okay. If it were either the crankshaft position sensors or camshaft position sensor, would it throw a code? No Codes so far related to this problem. I did find that my PCV valve is sticking open and causing high idle in the morning.

Still hunting issues. Will report when I find out what is cause of infrequent no-start situation. Thanks, will you know what my researching and guessing proves to be true. Concerning the PCV, hose, tube I knew about both ends being a source of leak.

I also can not afford to have a shop work on my truck. Oh,I can't either.. I very much appreciate it! The first thing I fixed on my truck was the blanking digital odometer. Used same youtube video and fixed the cold solder joints. Worked ever since. Your Power Locks! I have same problem. When I push the power door lock button on doors all it does it click and locks jiggle.

Was this same problem your truck had and if so, how'd you fix it? Is it possible I got a bad batch of gas? My truck is now losing power and this all started after putting gas in my truck. I hope its not cats as it was fine one day and low power next day. No Codes at all!! Any help will be very much appreciated. Yes,my locks were doing the same thing and this tin foil fix will fix it,like i said,they work like they are on steroids now,and i did mine several years ago.

Stevieray4, Will attempt to repair door actuators next week and Thanks for detailed info and youtube links! Yesterday, I hooked up my fuel pressure gauge and taped it to my windshield after pulling my windshield wiper fuse. Then I drove around for 5 miles and my truck ran perfect. Lots of power. High RPM acceleration is Okay. Fuel pressure never went under 32 and went up to 40 pounds under acceleration. But the day before it had a loss of power. Cats should not be the problem; right? If that stuck open it could also lower power on load.

Will let you know more as I find out. Roger that! I order parts from RockAuto. Will update what I find out. Did not drive truck today. You can't beat RockAuto's prices and even the shipping is cheap! I know all about Autozone,believe me,but i do use them as a reference for part numbers sometimes.. I just changed em 2 months ago,got 83, miles out of em and very little dust,front and rear! I just took a picture of the Odometer when i came in bout an hour ago. Wow- Lots of miles. I have the new plugs and have some PB Blaster.

Any other concerns on the plug change out? AND NO,never done anything to my engine! Thank you for COP pulling cautions. I have always used the rubber hose trick on any plugs I can not physical see to fist start them. Glad that your truck has held up. Glad your truck has held up so Great!! I have NO doubt at all that your truck with the 4. All the plugs,and coils can be removed and installed without taking the fuel rail off,and i didn't put a torque wrench on em,i just snugged them down good!

Tenac1 answered 3 years ago. Got a new fuel pump after it not starting for a week Crazy thing is -it started up one time two hours before the pump was changed, after not starting for a week and no sound from fuel pump!!! Anyway, so far so good, but the day before yesterday, no blinkers at all.. And I too have a passenger side window problem and driver side door lock problem not a new problem Tin foil??

Your fuel pump was bad, and it was probably the one from the factory ,mine was. Yes,the tin foil trick works. Hazards working? Stevieray4, Still have not repeated the no start syndrome. My battery terminal clamps OEM Ford appeared okay on outside but, after dissecting them, I found clamps were very badly corrided and 1" down each cable pure white coating.

I cut off the corroded cable and installed new terminals. Previous post above discussed a not start problem because of lack of voltage to computer during cranking. Maybe this was the problem. I drove for 3 days with fuel pressure gauge taped to my windshield and pressure was always between psig. I installed a new steel PCV valve and back manifold rubber boot. Most people would not of found that,and i have seen them pure white the entire length of the cables,but it's rare and glad you found yours.

Oh yes,if the computer does not see the correct voltage,then the computer gets real stupid,but smart and tries to compensate for low voltage! Well i hope that ends your Gremlins and they are gone and don't know the way back! Today, my truck died coming to a stop just before getting on the highway but, engine started right back up. I took off the fuel pressure gauge yesterday; errrgg. I don't think its a fuel issue. It acted like possibly the Idle Air Control Motor closed and killed the engine.

Is this possible? Since I got the fuel pump replaced a week ago, the blinkers work only sporadically. Just went and checked them and they are working fine as are the hazards. I will take it back to my uncle who changed the fuel pump and have him check as soon as i can get it over there My passenger window has not worked in over two years. Driver side window works If I hit the lock doors button on my door or on my key, only the passenger side works. It has been this way for a year or so.

I have to manually lock and unlock the driver's side door, as the buttons on the key or door do not work Oh yeah, and when the blinkers are not working didn't check the hazards then there was no clicking, no sound at all GuruWHFW answered 3 years ago.

First thing! I have not had any problems in several days. Dis answered 3 years ago. Cranked but would not start. Had to get it towed home of course I was out of town. Next morning hubby went to work on it and it started right up. Changed the fuel filter anyway as he had already purchased it.

Drove it to work Monday - Thursday, started fine. Went out after work on Thursday and did the same - crank but would not start. Hubby came and picked me up and left truck at work overnight. Next morning he brought me to work and tried starting it and it started right up.

After work it started right up again and I drove it home. Fast forward to this week, drove it to work Monday no problem. Went out to go home Monday and it started but immediately died. Then did the crank but not start problem again.

Hubby drove me to work Tuesday and after work I tried starting it again. Started, immediately died and did the crank no start again. I have been researching online to try and figure out what to try next as I don't have money for the shop. What order should we check these things in? My fuel pump is working fine - I can hear it engage. Sorry, I don't know the engine size but it is a regular cab.

I will read your reply to my husband and see how it goes. I have literally been all over the internet and watched a youtube video by jimthecarguy who was working on a ranger with the same problem and it was a bad inertia switch that caused the problem. We disconnected it to replace the fuel filter so my husband was thinking it could possibly be faulty?

That is why it was on the list. And yes, you can hear the fuel pump engage when the key is turned to the on position. Ok, gotcha! So not the switch. He will check the power to voltage to the fuel pump this weekend when I am able to get it home. Directions to take the bed off would be very helpful, thanks! I will let you know how it goes. Do you know if the pump is inside the tank? And I will have him try the starting fluid too. He said it is fuel injected so that wouldn't work, but I told him I saw someone on youtube spray it somewhere in the air intake?

And it worked for them so he thought that would work. Just haven't had time to work on it at all yet as it is still at my job and he can't work on it here. We will have it towed home Saturday if we can't get it to start. Thanks for all your help! B Fuel pump is in the fuel tank. C Starting fluid is shot in to throttle body.

Hold Throttle down and 2 second blast of starting fluid and then crank engine. If engine starts like it wants to run for a second or two the Ignition is okay and most likely fuel issue. Stevieray4 is expert here and he has helped me a lot. Here is another Ranger Fuel Pump bed removal video.

In this one the guy jacks up his truck, removes tires and uses 2 long 4"x4" timbers to slide bed back so he could replace his fuel pump.

Stevieray4, I finally got around to cleaning the IAC valve and replaced plugs. What a pain the plugs were. I found a snail and a small rock in 2 of the plug wells. I used an inspection mirror and flash light to see all was clean before pulling plugs..

Now I got a new problem as I have a lot more power. Now the engine revs too fast when I goose it. Is there a way to keep RPMs below 4,?

The truck has K on it and a little lower end tick when it first starts up 1st time each day. GuruXHHY answered 3 years ago. Omg I have similar issues above, after 2 secs hear the pump. Replaced a battery, cleaned connections, have a new fuel pump, just did a tune up and oil change One thing I notice it hestitates when idling at times.

Stevieray4, sorry for bad question on RPM. It was a rough day changing these plugs. No, not idling at 4, Before the plug change my truck was a dog and bogged a lot going up hills. Cylinder 4 spark plug look like it had been in the engine a lot longer than the other plugs. Now, after the new plugs, when I push the gas pedal to the floor, transmission downshifts as normal but, the RPMs go super fast over 4, and I have to back off the throttle witch makes it upshift a gear.

It has a lot more power with new plugs. Is there a way to check the Throttle position sensor Ohms resistance. Maybe the TPS is causing the transmission to shift late stay longer in lower gear than normal under full throttle.

I have similar issues above on f 4. So far, I replaced the battery, cleaned all connections, have a new fuel pump install with regulator built inside pump, just did a tune up plugs and boot and did a recent oil change. Add fuel injector cleaner to last 2 fuel ups One thing I noticed the rpm drop to when idling at times.

Further noticed the gauges after turn vehicle off bounce after 30 secs once when off. Any help would be appreciated. We found no error codes-no engine light issues. The cluster is also tied in to the anti-theft PATS system.

Did you notice if while cranking the engine if the the "Anti Theft" was still blinking? Was the no start immediately only on first turn of key and then it started on 2nd turn of key? I assume your drop to at idle in your question should be RPM at idle. It sounds like there could be 2 or more problems. Cluster gauge bounce is most likely not related to the no start immediately unless the gauges bounce during starting attempt. Have you verified the fuel pump pressure at the fuel rail test point?

Did you verify the original fuel pressure regulator is not loosing pressure? Also, the Crankshaft Sensor fails or bad connection or contamination can cause a no start immediately too. If you inspect this connector I had to take off my fan Belt self tensioner to get to my crankshaft sensor make sure to put dielectric grease inside the connect it to keep contamination out.

The Mass Air Flow sensor can also do this and this sensor seems to fail most of the time do to heat or on a hot day. You would think that a code would be set for either of these 2 sensors but, a lot of people say they don't find codes set. The crankshaft sensor is not too expensive but, the MAF sensor is very costly. When you replaced the battery did you check the cable ends at the battery. If they are the original cables the copper wire near the terminals but, under the cable insulation corrodes enough to cause problems with current getting to the PCM.

The problem on my f 4. The cable that went to the started conducted lots of current but, the cable going to the power distribution box PCM power source was corroded. The corrosion was not too far in to the cable. I was able to cut back 2" of cable where there was no corrosion and install two new battery terminal clamps.

The EGR valve can also cause a idle drop too. Hope this is helpful. Let us know what you find out. Revbobby Thank you for your well detailed replied! I will keep an eye on the anti theft light next time this happens. The cable ends to the battery were good below the instillation, only knew this bc the Ford unsealed battery was leaking and replaced with a sealed battery and checked the cables. The fuel pressure prior was good on the old pump but gauge we used wasn't reliable but fuel was at inlet oddly other times it wasn't Ford said the relay is inside the pump.

So will look into pcm relay which has given me problems in past and recently reprogrammed 6 months ago. Will look into crankshaft sensor and MAF. Did have MAF problems in past also that required cleaning.

Will also check idle air control valve and throttle body butterfly for cleaning needs. Your help is most appreciated! So, yesterday truck wouldn't start again. This time noticed no fuel running thru line and pump not engaging. Was like, go figure the new replacement fuel pump is bad or clog in the line. Out of desperation for an easier fix, swapped out the fuel relay fuse with the air blower relay fuse and BINGO truck started right up!

Picked up a new relay fuse Fingers crossed! GuruXHHY, glad to read you have found the problem. I'm hoping a flaky relay is my problem too. Well it's Friday I switched fuel relays with AC blower hoping that would work which it did until today. So that didn't work. Turns that per a friend of a friend who works at ford. Fuse 27 been having problems and ford even has a quick fix kit for it.

Well pulled 27 and it was burnt beyond recognition. Pulled the tow package use which was similar amp. Once again bingo! Starts right up! I also noticed my rpm issue is now gone. Once again crossing fingers will place the fuse swap kit on and see what happens hopefully nothing bad next Friday Happy Motoring Totally agree, common it's Good Friday! Your idle issues are identically to my f When I changed fuse 27 it was great So now I decide to put the new fuel relay fuse in, put a new 20amp in However, now the idling issue started again I ll need to check those ERG ports.

The throttle body was very clean when I checked the other day. Still no codes on mine. Like you said It has not acted up for almost a month now. Still need to clean EGR valve. Have replacement pump on hand just in case. Hoping it does not act up while I am camping. Thanks for all your help and Thank You! Trish answered 3 years ago. I cant read the some of the answers so im in the same boat What should i do..

Please help me. Trish Not sure what your exact problem is but I can tell u the issue with failure to start at times was resolved by replacing and relocating the fuse 27 which is for fuel system. They even offer a relocation kit thru ford.

What are you having a problem with? Describe what your problem s are. Hi stevieray4, I'm back after a few months and 2, miles of travel. This week after filling up my tank my truck would not start. It acts like its starved for fuel. I put the pressure gauge back on the fuel rail and will drive it for a month like that.

I check press each time I turn the key on and watch for pressure. If pressure, start to see if it starts. No Codes. The grimlins must be back. I can just need 2 more years maybe K. Concerning my no start. I did not fill the tank. That's when it did not start on 1st crank but, did start on 2nd crank. Then a few miles more. It sputter like it was not getting fuel. Even if the fuel pump was not spinning from maybe a bad spot on the armature and not starting, once it pressure up, it should not of sputtered IMO.

That was several days ago and I start the engine every day and it works so far. I have the press. Checking for pressure each time I turn on the key. When I started my truck this morning it pressured up to 38 psig with key on. When I started cranking and engine started the fuel pressure dropped down to 10 psig just for a second and then it rides ad about 32 psig. Never below 32 psig. Strange but, I'll post what happens in future.

Stevieray4, have you ever seen a monitor that a person could for fuel rail pressure sensing? I searched and do not find one anywhere.

I know basic analog electronics dealing with relays and opti-couplers to use digital signals to and from the Raspberry Pi. I was thinking of building a monitor for my truck. It would sense the pressure at the fuel tap and voltage at the "roll over safety" witch on wire going to the fuel pump and 12 volts at the fuel pump relay. Not hard to do this. I could do it in a few days after finding pressure sensing device.

Pressure would be a more difficult. And this would be a Linux System on the Raspberry Pi. What else would I want to monitor additionally? Just using lights on a small box with analog voltage and grounding sensing would be the 1st try.

One light for fuel pump pressure rail. One light for 12 volt to fuel pump from safety switch. One light for power to Relay activation. One light for Power to fuel pump side of relay. Gould also have 2 lights for safety switch. Would this be cool? It may help me and since no codes, I think others might be wanting something like this too. Very small niche market though. Not high tech but very cheap to make. I have started the design of my analog multi-LED bypass tester device.

I'm also going to wire in a Relay socket where a person can test there Fuel Pump Relay on my device. Also, a way to apply fused 12 volts directly to the Fuel Pump. To protect the PCM there will be at least 2 diodes. One will dump transient voltage spikes generated by Fuel Pump Relay Testing and to prevent back feed voltage from affecting the upstream circuit.

Might use an oil pressure switch that will do the jog. Anything above 10 PSIG will work for now. I've built many analog devices like this in the past.

I built a relay system for my brother so he can manually turn on his sprinkler systems 3 zones when he is fixing things. Should have it done before Christmas :. Here is prototype schematic. Will start building in couple weeks after getting all parts and tine to build it. Its the first drawing. Now I have to build the prototype for "proof of concept". Hooking wires to relay wires will be the hardest part. I think I'll get an actual relay and make a insert - splice adapter. Where original relay can plug back in to original socket and wire leads back to my test device.

Its going to be a slow process and I hope I don't need it before its done. Hope, Hope. Hi Stevieray4, My "no start issue" with my truck is now happening more often. The problem is a drop in fuel pressure on cranking the engine but, it always pressures up to 40 psig with Key On.

Then on every starts on same day Key On 40psig then crank and pressure drops to 0 psig and stays there until. I cycle Key - On - Off 4 or 5 times and 40 psig comes back. Pump is really quiet and hard to hear if it is running. Not sure yet if I wait 10 mins or so if the pressure will come back on the next ky On Will test this today. And its a fast drop from 32 psig to 0 when it fails to maintain pressure.

I'm going to hook up a LED light to the wire going from the inertia safety to the fuel pump and see if the electrical drops out. Also, would it hurt to pull the vacuum line off the fuel regulator and once engine starts, put vacuum line back on fuel regulator and see if the problem goes away?

Correction to above comment. It does not always pressure to 40 psig when Key On. Actually - When pressure drops to 0 zero it may take 4 or 5 key on - key off cycles to see pressure return. Once the pressure is up and engine starts, It will run perfect for hours.

Never any indication of fuel pressure drop once engine starts. I will check the vacuum line at Fuel Regulator for evidence of fuel; Thanks! Great Suggestion!!! My Truck is a with 4. Then not so much by 2nd owner but, he had a Ford Reman Auto Trans installed. I have NOT installed the new fuel pump kit. I plan on rebuilding it when I have to pull it. Let me check the fuel pump vacuum line right now. No fuel or fuel vapor at Fuel Regulator vacuum hose.

I then plugged the vacuum hose and started the engine. The pressure gauge almost wen to 0 psig but, then back up to 32 psig. Almost like it was late starting. I know that if the crank sensor is not sending a signal to the PCM the fuel pump will not turn on. Nothing pointing to actual cause yet. Next step is to wire up an LED on wire at out of inertia safety switch going to the fuel pump.

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