With the router bit height and fence positioned aligned, it's time to make some joints. I've ordered the jig set and am waiting impatiently for it corner jointing router bits 2020 arrive. Download PDF. In order for eouter parts to fit together seamlessly, the bit must create a sharp mitered corner see the finished cut in Step 4. Making Cabinetry. May 24, at am. MLCS Showroom.

Average Customer Rating: 5 reviews Add your own review for this product. I bought this set 2years ago, use them often and love the ease of using them. They sharpen easily. Their blades last a long time and if your not centered exactly, all you need to do is a quick planing to get things flush! This does make a strong and pretty edge but it is not a fast method to do it. These bits are hard to set up by the method shown in the video because they have to be perfectly centered on the work piece or the shoulders will be different widths and it won't work; it will leave a gap on one side of the finished panel.

To make setup simpler, make a trial cut on one edge, flip it upside down and cut the same side again. If the bit cuts off more stock on the second pass, it isn't centered and you will have to raise or lower the bit. I, too, found out that the tear out on the plywood cross grain was bad. I wonder if it would be a good idea to make the tongue bit cut a a small shoulder perpendicular to the plywood face on each side. That would allow you to run the plywood directly against the fence, leaving the same small shoulder on the plywood, eliminating the need for taping a board to it.

By setting up the fence very accurately, I was able to eliminate that step but it takes a long time to do it. I also found that trying to use the straight bit to cut off the excess didn't work very well. It helps if you have a fence on the table that you can raise up the width of the exposed portion of the male piece, allowing it to go under the fence.

I finally just sanded them off with a belt sander. I just bought a set of the edge banding sets. I have pretty much used face framing and plate joinery to cover ply. Thought these might be a better way to cover it up. I believe several of our members own this bit and would like to buy your new set up tool.

You could bring some with you and sell them after your demo. Possibly sell the bits too? If this works for you, We would invite you to do a monthly presentation of one of your products. I am available to discuss this matter at your convenience. Tom Whittington, Past Pres. Hey Tom, This sounds like a great idea.

This jig is so easy to use that its a joy to demo. Would you mind sending us a schedule of your meeting dates. You can email it to me at: kraschke infinitytools. May 23, at am. I concur with E. Spenser for the need for a similar jig for the lapped miter jig.

Mine collects sawdust due to extreme frustration and lousy results It is not from lack of wasted wood after many hours. Please consider making one. My order for this one is on the way. May 31, at am. I've ordered the jig set and am waiting impatiently for it to arrive.

Unfortunately, although the web site said the item is in stock, that is not the case and it's been backordered. May 31, at pm. Hi Herb, thanks for your patience. Our website is now updated with the correct expected date but the set item will still show in stock. Yes, it's a computer glitch. The jigs have been very very popular and we're producing the next batch as quickly as we can.

Thanks again! June 20, at am. July 15, at am. November 24, at am. How about a list of lock-miter bits it's been tested with. For me, will it work with Whiteside bits? November 25, at am. It should work with any lock miter router bit that follows the standard geometry, but we just can't test them all. December 10, at am. Yes, our Jig will work with the Freud, you just need to make sure you get the correct size.

May 24, at am. May 27, at am. The best method we have found for making the vertical cut is just how we show in the Blog, we recommend using a secondary scrap wood fence of MDF double side taped to the workpiece to help support the fine edge, and a pair of tall feather boards to keep the stock tight to your fence. This method keeps everything supported and secure through the cut.

Check out the video for more tips. Believe me I have used a lot of different tapes and this is by far my favorite. Howard Hagadorn. February 3, at am. I bought a lock miter bit for box making. I haven't used it cause it's such a hassle to set up so these look like handy little tools. But paying nearly 10 percent of my social security check for a couple little pieces of aluminum with magnets in them is unconscionable.

Check sheet goods with calipers before you commit. If the thicknesses vary by even a few thousandths of an inch, the most careful setup will not prevent mismatched corners. Odds are good that the centerline lies somewhere along the edge. In this case, some detective work is in order.

First, make sure that your router is unplugged. If your router permits, raise the bit so that you can set the bottom edge of the cutter against a block, as shown above. Measure the distance between the two lines, divide the amount in half, and then draw a centerline on the fence and the bit. You may need them to redraw a fresh line on your bit. Mark a centerline on your test stock. To do this, I ran a marking gauge along the top and bottom faces of the board and adjusted the bar until the cutter made a single line.

Set the piece on your router table alongside the bit. In order for the parts to fit together seamlessly, the bit must create a sharp mitered corner see the finished cut in Step 4. My method is a lot easier on the eyes and nearly fail-safe. To set the fence, simply set your stock against the fence on either side of the bit, and position another board so that it touches the two outside faces and bridges the bit, as shown above.

Note: Other instructions don't mess with the fence until after the bit height is set and tested. However, I find that setting the fence now eliminates the hassle of a second round of test cuts.

Before making a test cut, create a pair of rails a couple of inches longer than the test pieces, and attach them flush to the edges of your stock with double-faced tape. Next, set up hold-downs guide rollers or featherboards on the infeed and outfeed fences. Now, rest both test pieces flat against the table and feed them past the bit, as shown top right. Note: The knife-like mitered edge visible in the foremost board indicates that the fence is correctly set.

Detach the test pieces from the rails and try fitting them together. Odds are good that your joint will be a little off. Using the examples shown below, adjust the bit height, recalibrate your fence, and make another test cut. Rails offer a larger bearing surface. When a board is riding on the table, the rail keeps the piece from tipping into the bit at the beginning or end of the cut.

For both cuts, the rails protect the knife edge, allowing you to exert more pressure on the outfeed end without the risk of crushing the edge or end. Lock miter bits come in two sizes. One overlooked advantage to a smaller bit is its versatility.

When used on smaller projects, such as jewelry boxes and humidors where tight corners count , a lock miter really shines. Perfect-fitting lock miters almost always require a little dialing-in. Because the bit is used on both pieces, the gap reflects twice the amount that you need to adjust the bit. Just as they did during setup, rails make the routing process simpler and safer.

Lock miters can help you make legs and other posts; they can also be used with plywood to assemble cases with seamless corners. The mating piece is routed on edge with its inside face touching the fence. As you did for the test pieces, create a pair of rails a few inches longer than your workpieces, and attach them flush with the edges you plan to rout. Set up hold-downs on the infeed and outfeed side of your fence, and rout the edge, as shown in Photo A. Keeping the edge against the table, feed the piece from right to left Photo B.

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