Turning tools usually have a more complex shape than a chisel or plane blade, so sharpening them can require different techniques and tools. This video shows how I like to keep my turning tools sharp and ready to go. Some of the common woodturning tools that I use are bowl gouges, spindle gouges, scrapers and parting tools. Each one has a slightly different profile for it's unique purpose, but I can sharpen them all with my low speed bench grinder and a few add-on accessories. A few accessories that I find really handy are the Profiled CBN Wheel from Woodturners Wonder and Oneway Wolverin. How to sharpen woodturning tools for beginners. In tonight's video I'll show you how I sharpen all of my woodturning tools using the jig i made in my. Table saw blade sharpening jig. 1 просмотров. Бабка из домашней лапши. Grandmother of homemade noodles. 2 просмотра.   It was very easy to build, but my first one hab some minor issues with the screw that holds the tool. So I made a new one, much simpler in construction and it works great. •••. Accessibility Options. Thank you for your kind words! Thought I'd share a few pics of the tool rest for my bench grinder in case it might be useful for someone in the future. Would you have an article on tool rest height and positioning of tools while cutting by any chance? A working edge has to be obtained quickly and easily and then back to the work. Sometimes the bevel of the wood gouge may not be right for what you have in mind and it has to be totally reworked for what woodturning tools sharpening recipe want to do. Once I returned home I started grinding and using 40 degrees as the angle for all of my gouges with the exception of one gouge which is ground at woodturning tools sharpening recipe sharpeming higher degree 65 for getting down in those deep and steep areas of the bowl walls.

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Next, take the skew and see if it will slice down the edge. If it does and it looks clean then you should be good to go.

If a lot of force is being used to cut, then the skew needs to be sharpened. Spindle and bowl gouges along with the skew chisel will dull with time. Several things cause the turning tools to become dull. The type of wood that is being turned can cause dullness pretty quickly.

Hardwood will dull out a turning gouge faster than softwood. The reason for this is the spindle and bowl gouges take a harder hit from hardwood. Which in turn knocks off the bur on the gouges faster, remember the bur is what does the cutting on both bowl and spindle gouges.

So what are some of the signs that your gouge has become dull? If the spindle or bowl gouge no longer produces quality shavings but instead produces chips then it may be time to visit the grinder to dress it back up. Even though they are new you never know. The next thing to look for is do they have a bevel shape to them already?

I hope all those that are new to woodturning have bought turning tools that are made from high speed steel or HSS for short. HSS tools are better than lower grade steel tools for a few reasons.

This also means less trips to the grinder to sharpen them. They also create less friction when sharpened or when doing actual turning. Before you can sharpen your chisels, you need to make sure the bevel and the angle is correct. The parting tool and skew chisel are probably the easiest turning tools to learn on. The parting tool has an angle of around 50 degrees.

So all you have you to do is set your tool rest on the grinder up for a 50 degree angle grind. Turn the grinder on and lower the tip of the parting tool onto the moving grinding wheel for a few seconds. Turn the parting tool over and do the opposite side for the same amount of time. The end result should be the point of the parting tool be ground to a sharp squared of point.

Shaping skew chisels are pretty easy to do as well. Note that this tool is for spindles only. It is not intended for bowl turning. Adjust the angle of a flat rest so that the tool bevel rides against the stone. Now turn on the grinder, and with the tool parallel to the wheel, touch the tip of the tool.

Lay the tool on the rest, and slowly push the gouge toward the wheel. When the tip contacts the wheel, use one hand to keep the tool against the table and rotate the gouge until you reach the other side, and then reverse direction. As you grind, focus on holding the gouge firmly on the rest and keeping its end square to the wheel. When sparks come over the top of the tool, you should be done.

In my opinion, freehand grinding is safer and just as accurate. The spindle gouge is designed to cut curves, coves, and other detailed profiles on spindles and bowls. Unlike a roughing gouge, this profile has a longer, tapered point, with cut-back shoulders designed to stay clear of the cut.

Sharpening a spindle gouge requires more practice than other tools because the tool is rolled against the grinding wheel while simultaneously being slid up higher on the wheel to grind the wings. Unlike a basic gouge, you cannot simply set the tool on the rest. To facilitate this two-step process, I set my resting hand on the V-rest as shown above left.

I think this method keeps your hand a safer distance from the wheel. With the grinder off, set the gouge on your resting hand and slide it forward until the middle section of the bevel touches the upper half of the wheel, and then allow it to tip away from the wheel. Now with the grinder on, raise the handle until the full bevel touches the wheel.

As you rotate the tool, simultaneously push it up on the grinding wheel, as shown. Repeat this process on one side until sparks come over the edge and inside the flute.

Then repeat the procedure on the other side of the bevel. This gouge can also be sharpened freehand, but when establishing a brand-new bevel on a larger gouge, I appreciate help from the Vari-Grind jig.

To use the jig, first employ the stop so that the tip projects about 2" from the front of the jig as shown. Now, turn the grinder on, and lower the tool onto the wheel. Grind the tip first, and then pivot and swing the jig in each direction, as shown to create an even grind.

As you can see in the photo, it helps to stand to one side the grinder in order to stay clear of handle. The skew chisel is my go-to tool for most spindle turning. It can be used not only to shape, but also to finish cylinders, V-grooves, beads, and long concave curves. Since it is a finish-surface tool, a skew must be razor literally, hair-shaving sharp. Rather than using a grinder, I prefer shaping the bevels on either a disc or belt sander outfitted with grit abrasive.

Unlike a wheel, these machines maintain the flat bevel. Note: To avoid any chance of fire, remove sawdust from the sander and surrounding area. Repeat this procedure on the opposite face. After grinding both faces, check the bevels, and then make any necessary adjustments so that both bevels are the same length.

After grinding, you'll need to hone the edge. A few passes on each side should do the trick. These days, I also keep a diamond paddle in my apron pocket. This accessory provides a handy way to touch up an edge before making a finishing cut. I find that I can re-hone an edge several times before needing to regrind it. The trick is knowing when a tool needs a touch-up, before the damage is done.

The ability to tell the difference requires a certain amount of experience, especially since some woods are harder to turn than others.

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