WoodRiver® hand planes feature the same heavy castings (6 lbs) and fully machined frogs. Lightly finished Bubinga handles provide comfort and control. Tools require minimal tune-up prior to use. Commonly known as a “jack” plane. Soles and sides are machined flat and square within tightly held tolerances. Login to Write a Review. Login to Add to Toolbox. WOOD magazine review. The everyman plane. Reviewed by: WOOD Magazine.  Review Summary. This is the Chevy pickup truck of jack planes: a midpriced, no-frills performer that gets the job done. Out of the box, the blade and sole needed flattening, but worked great after that. The carbon-steel blade dulled quickest of those we tested, but sharpened easily. by WoodRiver. 25 reviews. Sale. £ 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10+. Quantity. Quantity. Add to cart.  The planes represent a live, evolving product line that incorporates input from users, experts and the manufacturer to produce the best working planes possible. The WoodRiver V3 No. /2 Bench Hand Plane is /8" wide, /8" long, has a /8" blade, and weighs just over 6 lbs. Commonly referred to as a Heavy Smoothing Plane, the No. /2 offers the user more heft, size and a larger handle than a traditional No. 4. Features include soles and side machined flat and square, lightly finished Bubinga handles, and minimal tune-up required before use. Features.  Will definitely be buying further tools from them. K. K. Wood River 41/2. Great quality! B. B.D. V3 smoothing plane. отметок «Нравится», 2 комментариев — Woodcraft (@woodcraftgallery) в Instagram: «Our WoodRiver handplane soaking up some sun 😎.. #Repost @thegnomeseeker ・・・ We broke in the 5». I have planes of many different manufacturers and vintages. And yes it is not suitable for heavy cambered blades. G S Haydon Posted November wood river jack plane review, Very impressed with this No. Wood has been seasoning well and irons and cap irons safely stored away waiting for their day. I was keen to make up my own mind on the range which has come under fire by many reviewers. Login to Write a Review.

Note: ensure the lever cap is loosened before making adjustments to avoid damage. The plane blade is stiffened with the use of a cap iron. The cap iron helps reduce chatter and assists in curling the shavings to prevent splintering the work-piece, particularly when working against the grain.

The plane blade and cap iron are locked in position with the lever cap. This further reduces chattering. The lever cap has a plated finish which is usually a nickel plating. The lever cap has a hole in the middle in which a screw runs through from the frog.

These Stanley planes are fitted with a comfortably shaped handle and knob. The handles and knobs can be made from hardwood or a hard plastic composite. The wooden handles are quite desirable as they feel natural and more comfortable.

Planes with Rosewood handles and knobs are highly sought after, with numerous choosing to 'pimp-up' their plane by buying a new Rosewood plane handle set.

Enjoy viewing the encyclopedia of tools. If you use info such as dates or photos from FindMyTool. Please see our terms if using more than a few dates or photos. Fore SOON. Marking Gauges. Rebate Bullnose. Rebate Fillister. Rebate Shoulder. Rebate Side. Cranked SOON. Plumb Bobs. Gouges SOON. Mortice SOON. Sliding Bevels. Other SOON. Oh boy I have a 6 drawer dresser that I've built, and I have finally started making the drawers for it.

None of the drawer slots are square. You can't tell it by looking at the thing, but instead of a perfect rectangular cube, if you pull out a tape measure, you see that it is a parallelogram in the slight shape of penne pasta. So, fitting the drawer front has been something I've dreaded doing. I had to fool with it and fool with it the whole time.

Micro-turning those screws to try to get a shave instead of jittery shaving flakes, and without gouging the wood. My first drawer front And it fits well.

I have 5 more to go, and I'd like to take this opportunity to learn more about using a real hand plane. My question really is Woodworking is not just a passing phase for me, so I always want to buy the best tool that will last and not need to be upgraded as my skill level improves. I am going to need to buy some stones and sharpening stones, so I am hoping to get some of you guys' perspective on the three above planes as far as And so it begins.

I have the Veritas low angle jack and I'm very glad I do. People have mentioned that as you fill out your plane collection this particular format become superfluous. I have not found this to be the case but, we all work differently. LN make quality versions of proven designs, LV has some wonderful innovations that some find very nice to have. For someone starting out with handplanes I think the better plane is worth it.

Veritas and Lie nielsen will come almost ready to use out of the box a little honing and its ready. Im not sure thats the case with cheaper planes. As for the Low angle jack, thats a great plane to start with.

In this weeks shoptalk live podcast during the segment "favourite tool of all time", furniture maker Garret Hack chose the low angle jack and said its the plane he travels with. Its a fantastic plane. I have the veritas and love it. Easy: Go for the more expensive plane. If you decide to ever get out of the hobby many people do then it will be easier to recoup your investment.

So that leaves you with a decision: Lie-Nielsen or Veritas. Both are excellent planes and you're not going to go wrong with either. Choose Veritas if you like their PM-V11 steel blades. Choose Lie-Nielsen if you want brand recognition and easier resale. I read about the A2 vs. But I could not find what PM-V11 steel is.

I have Pm-v11 on all my planes and I think its great. Pretty sure RenaissanceWW said this somewhere at some point, might have been the podcast but i could be imagining it Hopefully Shannon can chime in and give his thoughts on it. Go for the more expensive plane. And I will add that I use it whenever offered. Sharpens easily and holds a usable edge like nothing else I have used.

It is one of those things where you do not have to be an expert to notice the difference. For the small difference in price I would not skip it. If you are leaning toward Veritas I will also mention that I have a jointer and smoother that take the same size iron as the LAJ.

I bought each with a different bevel iron. This gives me bevel angle variety for any of the planes. Your value on this will depend on your future acquisitions and use.

If I could get a pm11 blade to fit my Lie Neilson planes I'd try some. Ive never been happy with the A2 steel. The first plane I bought was a Veritas and the second one was a LN. I feel the Veritas is a good plane, and I don't have anything really negative to say about them. For me, I just think the LN is a better plane.

It came out of the box needing little to no prep, while my Veritas needed some initial work. I feel I get better results with my LN plane, but that could be the user! Also, the level of customer service from LN has been outstanding. I accidentally dropped my block plane and bent the spin wheel. When I called LN to purchase a new one, they sent me a new one free of charge and it arrived quickly.

That's one of the reasons I will continue to buy from them. I'm sure it's a comfort thing, but I love all my LN tools. I have the Stanley low angle jack plane. When sharpened and adjusted it works very smoothly. My only gripe with it, and it partially my fault is the I have somehow sharpened the blade slightly out of square.

There is very, very little adjustment on this particular plane because the blade is almost as wide and the body of the plane. I would be interested in knowing if the Lee Vally and Veritas planes have such tight fitting blades. I ground that sides of the Stanely blade to make it slightly narrow near the heal to allow for more lateral adjustment. Correcting the sharpening job on the blade is on my list. I had the Stanley plane and the sole was not square to the bed, so I always got an angled cut and could not adjust the blade enough to compensate.

There are multiple stories of this problem to be found online. I sold the 2nd replacement on ebay before I even took it out of the box. Didn't lose much money but ended up with an extra iron I didn't recoup.

Whole process took many weeks to get worked out. I have planes of many different manufacturers and vintages. I like the LN bronze 4 the most as it feels just right. However as you do have a budget and that one plane alone will take most of it I can recommend an up coming brand that has already been mentioned. The 5 Jack may be a good choice for you - I don't own one but have tried one. It will rough, joint, smooth and needs very little work out of the box.

The regular bevel down will suffice. Also get a block plane. I have several brands and like the LN the best. Again Woodriver make a very good one as a reasonable cost. If buying second hand the world is your oyster but pre-war WWII Stanley's are said to be better quality. Woodworking with handtools is becoming very popular you may be lucky getting a relatively cheap one but I've noticed recent considerable price hikes on the old tools market demand and supply.

A Hock replacement blade will improve any plane, assuming there is one for a plane you choose, but they come at a premium cost. Beware that woodworking can become an expensive hobby as you get into it and you will always want need the next tool. As predicted, lots of good discussion on this. LN fans and LV fans can be quite prejudiced just as we all like our favorite car maker or football team. Hand tools are very personal as they have to feel good in your hands.

I was lucky enough to be at a show where LN and LV were right across from each other and so got to try a variety of tools back and forth. I ended up in the LV camp since they felt better in my hands. There are deffinitly folks who like one model from one maker and a different model from the other; the shoulder plane is an example of the two maker's very different approach to a tool.

Fortunately people are passionate about their hand tools so you get a lot of good conversation. Read and re-read through it, sift out the blind prejudice and you will still end up with two quality makers that approach the industry differently. As to which version works best for you; I wish there were somewhere I could recommend to you that would have both on hand for you to test drive.

The real "best" hand tool is the one that works best for you. I have had the Stanley Sweetheart products under consideration for a while now and after clearing out some unused tools I chose to buy I was keen to make up my own mind on the range which has come under fire by many reviewers.

I'll add my thoughts on those in due course. This first post should be treated as an initial feel for the tool only. I think "out of the box" reviews can be a little dangerous as we can all get rather excited with a new toy.

Also these are purchased with my own money, no deals, and I have yet to have my palm crossed with silver by any supplier never gonna happen so I'm pretty independent. I would normally go vintage or stop by Workshop Heaven but I felt I wanted to roll the dice As a quick comparison the other Low Angle Jacks in the market stack up as follows. All the logistics and packaging were as you would expect in the modern world, all fine.

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