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Also to make things easy I will refer to the side of the window with the profile as the front, or face, and the side of the window with the rabbets for the glass as the back.

With all pieces cut to size and length, it is time to cut the tenons on the ends of the rails and muntins. Where that tenon falls depends on the thickness of the material, how deep you want the rabbet for the glass, and how much of a fillet you want on the face of the window.

I nibbled away the waste on the face side of my rails. Once the tenons are cut it's time to make the coping cuts. The cope cutter is set up in the router table so that the top of the cutter just brushes the underside of the tenon with the rail face down.

With this setting, both rails and all the muntins can be coped. To feed the pieces through I use a miter gauge to support the workpiece and a backer block to reduce tearout. Using a square can help set the router table fence. With the tenons formed and cope cuts made on the ends of the rails and muntins, it's time to lay out the mortises. A wheel marking gauge is quick to set up to define the width of the mortises. The tenons itself help locate the length of the mortises.

A little measuring is required to locate the mortises for the muntins. I gang both rails and corresponding muntins together and mark all the way across the pieces.

This ensures that if I'm slightly off-center, I still get square intersections between pieces. The same goes for the stiles. I use a wheel-style marking gauge to set the distance from the cheek of the tenon to mark out for the corresponding mortises.

Using the tenon to mark the mortise eliminates all the guesswork and insures that the mortises will always be in the right location. I use the tenon itself to lay out the location of the mortise in the stile. When marking the location of the mortises for the muntins, I gang all the pieces together to ensure that everything aligns and is square when assembled. The mortises can be cut a number of ways. The easiest would be with a hollow chisel mortiser. The most traditional method would be to use Window Sash Router Bit Set Uk Windows a mortise chisel.

I split the difference and drilled out the majority of the waste at the drill press with a drill bit and cleaned out the waste with a couple of chisels. You can also set up a straight bit at the router table and plunge away the waste. As long as you end up with a straight, clean mortise the method is not important.

After the mortises are marked out and drilled, use chisels to remove the waste and clean up the mortises. After making the stile cut at the router table, notch away the little square of material on the ends of the stiles as marked in the photo Door Router Bit Set Windows below.

Removing this material allows the pieces to drop together and the cope to match the profile. I use a backsaw for this, but a sharp chisel will also do the trick. Once the mortises are finished all pieces can be profiled at the router table and the small waste piece removed. Once that's done, the window can be dry-assembled to check the fit of the joints. Now it is time to make a couple of jigs and fixtures that make the rest of the process of making the window a little easier.

Using a piece of scrap wood roughly the same dimension as the window frame and about 8" longer, use the cope cutter to run a cope the length of the scrap piece photo below. Making a custom push block makes the process of milling the muntins much easier. This same piece will also be used as a fixture later on to hold the muntin while you trim the miter joints where the bars intersect. Now mark the scrap piece so that you can remove the material up to the end of the tenon on the back side of one of your rails.

With the material in the middle removed you will have a piece with the reverse profile of the window sash. When making the push block, the last little bit of material is easily removed at the tablesaw with a flat-top blade or at the router table with a straight bit.

This simple block is the key to creating the interlocking joint between the muntins. Now take the remainder and add a hook to one end. This becomes the push block for profiling the muntins. Without this block the process of profiling these skinny pieces can be tricky at best. Adding a hook to the end completes the push stick and the muntins can be milled with ease.

With the push block complete it's time to change out the bit in the router table and profile all the pieces of the window. I use the cope end of one of the rails to help set the bit to the proper height. When the rabbeting cutter brushes the top of the tenon, and the fillet at the bottom of the profile lines up, everything is set correctly.

The rails and stiles are easy to run as there is plenty of meat to hold onto, but the muntins are a different story. This is where I grab the push block. A little double-sided tape does a great job of securing the muntin to the block on the first cut to ensure a clean cut.

The second cut is even easier — just flip the push block over and nest the muntin into the profile in the push block. The block holds the muntin in place and keeps fingers clear of the router bit. I stick the muntin to the flat side of the push stick with double-sided tape and run it through the router. The milled side of the muntin will now drop into the recess in the push stick and make milling the other side worry-free. With the muntins cut, the window can be dry fit to insure that the muntins are the correct length.

This is when you'll do any fine tuning of the mortises for a perfect fit. At this point, the muntins can be tested for proper length by checking the verticals and horizontals separately. Many tutorials show making a shallow mortise-and-tenon joint at the intersection of the muntins. I find making a half lap joint to be stronger, more traditional, and easier.

Not to mention it impresses the heck out of people. My favorite part of the process is making the overlapping joint in the muntins. With the little miter block and a sharp chisel this is a much easier joint to make than you might think. This cut is made only through the profile portion on both sides of the muntins.

With the notches cut, it's over to the workbench to cut the miters. I used my push block as a jig to hold the muntin stable. The miter block is clamped on top of the muntin. You're done when the miter meets Window Sash Router Bit Set 2020 the flat at the middle of the muntin. Clamping the miter block in place makes it easy to get very accurate results and guarantees a tight-fitting joint between the muntins.

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Belt And Disc Sander For Steel 60 Woodworking Sanders Shop Size Ww2 Jet Planes German 2020