I have removed the top coat and sanded back to the base wood. Thanks so much for your response. No, stain is supposed to be applied to wood. Back to top. Just bought from EBay at reg prices so normal service hopefully normal service resumed Reply.

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It also analyses reviews to verify trustworthiness. Top reviews Most recent Top reviews. Top reviews from United Kingdom. There was a problem filtering reviews right now. I often fight shy of grain filler on light woods for this reason…. Then an oil type finish. Can I use Ronseal Wood Filler for the grain filling?

It looks much the same as the Rustins type, but was available near to home so I went for that. Hey Stephen thank you so much for providing all of the information you do.

This is a great article and I will be referencing it as I start to finish my Swamp Ash bass body. I do have a two-fold question for you if you are inclined. Since I plan to relic the finish, do you recommend no clear coat for the final stage or should I go with a matte or satin clear?

I would always finish the guitar properly with a clear gloss topcoat before distressing the finish. A clear gloss finish is most brittle and will craze better than one containing non-lacquer solids pigment or matting agent that make the finish softer.

There is a couple of links on my FAQ page that show some aging techniques, including an excellent article from Guitar Magazine which uses my lacquer. Great resource! Was wondering if the process would be the same for filling an alder body? Thank you. There is generally no need for grain filler on alder as the wood is much tighter grained than ash. Just go with plenty of sanding sealer as here.

Do you think this will work? Also I have some little splits in the wood, would it be best to grain fill these before spraying? Yes that plan would work.

As for the splits you need to stabilise those, which grain filler will not do. You should get some glue in there and wood splints if they are wide enough. So looking at your example should I use white primer base before white nitro top coat?

Also will I need to seal it at some point? In the colour picture is the yellower colour an example of how it will age? There is an example of White Blond here.

The right hand side of the swatch shows the colour with a tint over the top mimicking aging as I have done the the example I linked. I use the neutral colour on ash, the grain still shows though fine. Hi guys, bit of a rookie at this finishing work.

I bought a genuine Fender reject ash Tele body which is needing scratches and holes filled prior to rubbing down. The wee termites wood-worm had got to the body too — mainly on edgings so there are a trillion tiny holes to fill up. Problem is it is near on impossible to purchase due to the Rustins warehouse fire so wondered if you could recommend an alternative?

You could try Tonetech Luthier Supplies who Sherwin Williams Water Based Grain Filler have some similar products. I need to grain fill and laquer the rosewood back and sides on a newly built acoustic guitar. If I use the Rustins mahogany grain filler, how do I prevent it from staining the white purfling lines and brown and white back stripe? The Rustins mahogany grain filler is not the right colour for rosewood. Will this destroy the finish?

Great information by the way, very informative. You would need to stain before sealing of course. You also need to check that your grain filler will accept the stain. If you want to achieve a smooth final finish then I think that sanding sealer is the best way to level the surfaces before spraying gloss. You can just use cler lacquer but it will take a lot more to build as much.

Do you offer a finishing service….. All the right notes but NOT necessarily in the right order. I live in Falkirk, Scotland. Bill Lothian.

Hi, of the two Water Based Grain Filler 500 grain fillers you sell on your website here, can I ask what one you would recommend for a Walnut body? I was thinking probably the Mahogany, but would that be too dark? The mahogany is probably too red for walnut.

Hi Steve, this is such a great help! Or will it be OK to just stain it after the grain fill and sand? I want to tint my natural rustins grain filler black then sand back. I am UK based. Hi steve if i want to have the grain on an ash body dark or black, and have a burst stain paint on it — what is the correct order? No, stain is supposed to be applied to wood. If you want to stain, do it after grain filling and before the sealer.

In my experience Water-based fillers tend to shrink back more as they dry so require more applications. Oil based fillers shrink less. Grain filler and stain need to be compatible of course. I have removed the top coat and sanded back to the base wood. Planning to use acrylic paints to put a design on a small part of the guitar then leave the rest with a clear laquer top coat.

Would you recommend using this as a base layer before I start the design or something else? The best base I think would be a coat of Sanding Sealer. Your email address will not be published.

Once you have your guitar body sanded you can apply the grain filler. Thin grain filler with white spirit. Sanding the grain-filled body front smooth. Sanding the grain-filled side smooth. Cheers Terry Reply. Thank you for these great instructions. At what point would you add the sealer — immediately after filler or wait to dry? Thanks again Steve! I would add a dark pigment rather than a dye which will stain all the wood defeating the object. Mark Reply. Doe dye first then grain fill or will the dye happily goe through the grain filler Thanks ian Reply.

Does one type cause the grain to sit after drying or does the grain fill sort this out Thanks ian Reply. Water-based dye will raise the grain more. I always use a spirit-based stain. Hi steve would i put the dye on before the sealer or after? Best regards. I cover the process for blond here in my FAQs I sell a white blond lacquer in my shop. Cheers Reply. There are tips for satin lacquer in my FAQs which apply equally to matt lacquer.

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