Watco's specially formulated Butcher Block Oil & Finish allows for easy and safe maintenance of wooden butcher blocks, cutting boards, salad bowls and other items which require a food safe finish. Please read product labels for additional directions and precautions before using. Features: Easy wipe-on application Rich sheen enhances while it protects. Note: Can only be shipped by Fed-Ex Ground to addresses within the continental United States. California Watco Salad Bowl Finish Pdf Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.- Item#. Person 2- NEVER use varnish or salad bowl finish on a cutting board! What are you, stupid?!?! Person 3- Mineral oil and wax are the best!  Salad Bowl finish is a real good option. Marc’s recipe of dilluting with thinner is an absolute MUST to avoid streaky oily and smearing finishes but with a 50% thinning, and several coats, you get a nice shine and this shows off the more exotic woods and your efforts better. It is a better Wooden Salad Bowl Finish Data seal than the options.  I assume the toxic part evaporates, but is there any data to support that? Something about using a chemical like that on a cutting board just makes me nervous. I am not trying to argue, just trying to learn:) Thanks again. Watco - Вся продукция американского брэнда в наличии, доставка по России в надежной упаковке.  Полироль для дерева Watco совмещает в себе крепость полиуретановой защиты и прелесть ручной полировки. От 2 ,00 ₽. Watco Butcher Block Oil & Finish. Масло для разделочных досок и посуды из дерева. На основе тунгового масла. Film is similar to danish oil. Photo Gallery New media New comments. Part of that also, is that I won't put anything that I can't eat, out of the can, on some thing I am going to eat out of. The misleading ithe direction of the can says that apply to bare wood. This watco salad bowl finish data not blotching.

Notes, I contacted the Rustoleum and they did not give any help. So, I am hoping some out tere tried this product and can give some tips. Please note that I have tried spot sandig where it did not take the finish and went down from grit to grit, and tried to apply it little thicker to have wood take the finish, but to no avail.

I have wet sanded at one stage with mineral spirit as it states on the can for cleaning , no satisfactory result. I have applied DNA and that didn't help either. Applied acetone as Rustoleum rep told me so. And, also, the can says to apply it to raw wood which I think in this case it was a mistake doing so, since Walnut is open grain wood and the end grain is much porous. I am trying to not resort to putting it back on glue block and sanding the whole thing to bare wood which is not going to be that easy and then start the finish all over again.

I appreciate any help. Last edited by a moderator: Jan 29, Gary Beasley. What I see is end grain absorbing heavily as well as some area of fine tearout making the dull patches. You might need to wash the finish off and sand everything to get rid of the tearout. Not sure if the area that got dark from over absorption will lighten up but the look wont be as bad as you think once the finish is even.

Richard Coers. It's really tough to get a film built up when you are using that much thinner. You'll have to put on about 20 coats tif you want a film build up. Was the wood dry? Last edited: Jan 28, Bill Boehme Administrator Staff member. Beta Tester. It looks like you aren't applying the Watco Butcher Block Finish as intended. It is basically thinned tung oil with some resins.

I would prefer using a straight oil finish, but this product can be applied the same way: apply with a rag, rubbing it in and then let it sit for about ten minutes.

Next, use a clean rag to wipe the surface dry. Wait about a half hour and then wipe the surface again to remove any of the finish that has seeped out of the pores.

It appears that you might have applied really heavy coats and then let it sit like you would if applying a varnish. I like walnut oil. It's quick and easy and doesn't darken the wood as much as linseed oil or tung oil does. And, it smells nice. I don't care for layering different types of finishes so I wouldn't normally apply a film finish over an oil finish.

HOWEVER, if you do want to follow the oil finish with a film finish, I would suggest waiting several weeks to allow time for the oil to catalyze. I see a lot of deep sanding scratches. Don't skip grits when sanding.

PS: Each image was posted three times. I removed the duplicates. If you see an error like this, you have the ability to go back and make corrections. Doug Freeman. This product is very similar to minwax wipe on poly, with tung oil instead of linseed oil, which doesnt effect the application process. Both use alkyd resin and are approximately the same solids. I dont know how hard the watco oil will get with alkyd solids it should harden reasonably well.

The issue I see is the wood surface was not uniformly sanded before finish application. It sounds like your application method is to apply a film with a brush and walk away. If correct, I would expect to see exactly what the pics show.

This is not blotching. Its a dry film finish on the shiny areas, And no or insufficient film thickness in the rough areas. I see 3 possible paths forward: 1 keep adding coats and sanding back until the rough areas start to bridge and build a film.

These areas will not look great but ok. I use a lot of wipe on poly. Besides getting a better, more consistent sanded surface, something that will help is to apply Watco Salad Bowl Finish 65 a couple of coats like danish oil - flood on, keep wet for min, wipe off.

This will seal the surface. Then apply a brushed film which will dry more uniformly on the surface. Whether to remount depends on whether you prefer to sand on or off the lathe.

Last edited: Jan 30, Gary Beasley said:. Click to expand Hi Richard Coers said:. Roger Wiegand Beta Tester. Phillip Medghalchi said:. I did look at the MSDS and although that I am not clear about it, I see that most of it indeed is toxic chemicals, and I am not sure how they say it's food safe finish? Greg Norman. They said I was not wiping off the excess well enough.

I tried doing a better job of wiping it down after flooding and waiting a bit. I did get better results on some bowls but no matter what I tried I still had some that looked similar to yours.

I now only use walnut oil on food contact items and never have any problems. Roger, i appreciate your insight and the tip. The main issue for using this product was that to put on a finish that's food safe and FDA approved.

I have used this product in the past on Mesquite and Bradford Pear that Bill can attest to it, since he is in the same general area that I live.

What I was trying to figure out was why is it doing it on Walnut and is there any more preparation that was necessary that I failed to do. I followed the can's instruction and applied the finish directly on the raw wood which now I realize form above posts that I made a mistake and did not seal the wood before applying the finish.

I also, noticed that it was best to put it on and wife off the excess and come back wipe it again until I build up a nice finish. Teh direction on this oil finish did not say so. When talking to the manufacturer the rep could not tell me in what environment they did the test before the write up the directions. The other issue was that I was not too sure about it being a film.

The misleading ithe direction of the can says that apply to bare wood. Michael Lyle. I am wondering what you are going to eat out of a walnut bowl.!!!!! Not trying to bea wise guy Maybe this "food safe finish".

Next question: Have you used any sanding sealer? Clifton C. Michael, I use my bowls for any and everything. All the things on your list and then some. I throw them in a sink full of hot soapy water scrub, rinse and drip dry. I ran one thru the dishwasher because every one said not to, figured if it got ruined, I knew where to get another. It got fuzzy so I re-sanded I agree Watco Salad Bowl Finish 20 with your point, I don't think we are putting ourselves in danger, but with all the things we make, the finish has to match the piece.

I don't mind a lacquered bowl that sits on a shelf, I just know not to throw it in with the utility bowls. Both bowls were sanded prgressively to , but were from different trees. I buffed with white diiamond last week and waxed with LV Conservator's Wax. The bowl with only two applications to me looked just as good as the one with 5. The finish did not highly color the maple and neither had much of a build. I was very pleased with both.

I have used Waterlox, but not for salad bowls. Do like Waterlox for build when I want a really shiney look, but never use it up fast enough.

Some of you may know of Eugen Schlaak in Niagara Falls. He has been using Watco for 35 years and virtually nothing else. I was using home brew for a umber of years, but now really like the Watco.

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