Также Вы можете оформить заказ по телефону (звонок по России бесплатный) или по емайл arsenal-mastera@www.- Видео: Trend Varijig. Отзывы о Шаблон фрезерный Trend Varijig Tenon & Grooving Jig М Отзывов пока не было. Вы можете оставить его первым. Новый отзыв о «Шаблон фрезерный Trend Varijig Tenon & Grooving Jig М». Ваши знания будут оценены посетителями сайта, если Вы авторизуетесь перед написанием отзыва. In addition, the Trend Mortise and Tenon Jig will also cut haunched tenons, square tenons, loose tenons and dowel joints. The set comes equipped with five screw-on brass bushings for tenons, one 2 ⅛" screw-on guide bushing for mortises and a ⅝" brass screw-on bushing for dowelling. Optional accessories include a set of five long reach straight bits ($65) and dust extraction kit ($58). The Trend Mortise and tenon jig retails for $ in Canada. When I used the Trend mortise and tenon jig to cut some joints recently I was very impressed by its flexibility. There is so much you can do w. Trend MT/JIG Mortise and Tenon Jig Enables mortise and tenons and dowel joints to be cut with a router. Ideal for cabinet, chair and table. CNC precision manufactured plates and body. One set-up for both mortise and tenon giving perfectly fitting joints. Fully adjustable for compound angle joints up to 45 degree. Reversible templates to produce round and square end tenons. Templates can be used for accurate dowelling applications.  The width of the tenon is adjusted by using different guide bush diameters. Cuts mortise & tenon sizes of 1/4" to 5/8". Template guide bushes are included but router bits are required. Specifications: Angle Tilt Compound: 10 degree to 45 degrees. Maximum Material Thickness: 47 mm. Maximum Mortise Length using Vertical Guide++: 90 mm. It is a good sturdy product that will make your woodworking task easy and efficient. Learn how your comment data is processed. Spiral trend mortise and tenon jig train can be used for an improved finish. Hack leaves the outside end of the pin square and holds it with a wrench as he hammers it home. Don't have an account? Sign up! Provides extra support for your table during mortising or drilling operations.

But it's not just the sizes of the mortise and tenon that you have to balance: The shoulders on both sides of the tenon must be substantial enough to do their work. They butt against the leg and resist bending and twisting forces trying to lever apart the joint.

A good rule of thumb is to size the tenon diickness a little more than one-third the thickness of the apron. While the one-third rule is a good general guide to follow, sometimes it's belter to make exceptions. If I'm building a table out ofbul-ternut or a similar softwood, with aprons only X in.

I make the tenons at least Y», in. Any smaller and a sharp bump to the leg might snap the tenon right off. Because you rarely see the thickness of an apron, one good design strategy is to make it thicker—14, in. Two other aspects of the tenon affect the joint strength.

One is the amount oflong-grain glue surface on the cheeks of the tenon: the other is the length of the tenon, which is affected by where the mortise is cut on the leg. Naturally, a longer tenon has more glue surface and provides more mechanical strength to the joint. As a general rule, the longer the tenon, the better, assuming the leg can accommodate it.

A tenon lengdi that's three to four times its diickness is quite adequate. When laying out the size and placement of tenons, a full-scale, top-view drawing will help you understand the orientation and relationship of all of the parts.

One engineering principle stales that the stress on any part is least along the centerline or neutral axis. A centered mortise or tenon is stronger because it has all of that wood on both sides bolstering it. For this reason. I prefer to have a shoulder on both sides ofa tenon rather than one side only to better resist bending stresses from either direction.

Even a small shoulder will cover any bruised edges on the mortise that result from cutting the joint. A centered mortise might be ideal, but the farther to the outside of the leg you position a mortise, the longer the respective tenon will be. Too far out and the cheek of the mortise is more vulnerable to splitting under stress.

Deciding on the exact placement is a judgment call that varies with each project. Butting tenons together works when joining aprons of unequal width, where the wider tenon can be the shorter one because it has extra. I ve also cut half of each tenon mortise-and-tenon joints affect their strength. But I prefer to miter the tenons within the joint without actually joining them.

If] must incorporate drawers into an apron, the size of the rail usually calls for a completely different tenon design see the sidebar on p. A tenon the full height of the apron affords lots of glue surface and strength against bending and twisting forces. But there's a trade-off: A full-height mortise weakens the leg, especially if there are two mortises at the corner of the leg. With the top of the mortise open, any serious stress on the apron can more easily spht the top of the leg.

So the strength of such ajoint relies almost entirely on the glue bond because the mechanical strength is compromised. With this design detail, what httle glue surface you lose is balanced against having a much stronger mortise. I cut the haunch on the tenon by hand with a dovetail saw and then clean it up with a chisel.

For speed and accuracy, I lay a wooden template on the tenon to mark out the haunch and use another one made as the mirror image of that pattern to size the mortise at the haunch end. To cut the mortise for the haunch, I first mark out the sides aligned with the mortise with a mortise gauge, chop the waste, and refine it using the template and a chisel.

Because I cut many of my mortises with a router bit, 1 keep the top of the mortise below the haunch round for a small measure of added strength. Also, a small X-in. Haunched tenon prevents apron from twisting. A marking gauge extends the lines of the existing mortise that indicate where to cut the angled haunch. Use chisels to ciean out the bottom corners of each mortise as an index to seat the tenons later on.

Although his mortises often require additional handwork, Hack cuts most of them with a machine he made from scrap parts. It has a router mounted horizontally to a sliding table that can be adjusted in three dimensions.

There is no other practical way to cut the slope for this shape. Hack leaves the tabie iegs long to keep them from splitting aiong the top edge whiie he chisels the haunch.

The template makes it easy to check your progress as you cut the angled mortise. A matching template made to the negative shape of the one used to Trend Mortise And Tenon Router Jig check mortises shows where to cut the angled haunch on the tenons. The first cut is made with a stop block on the miter gauge. With the workpiece firmly clamped against this tenoning jig, the tablesaw can cut tenons cleanly and accurately. A dovetail saw makes quick work of trimming the angled haunch and mitering the ends of the tenons.

With snugly fitting mortise-and-tenon joints , a thin layer of yellow glue spread evenly is all you need for a good bond. The best design and the strongest glue won't overcome a joint with carelessly fit shoulders or a sloppy fit between tenon and mortise , liven when 1 cut these joints with accurate machine setups, I still often find it necessary to improve the fit with a few passes ofa shoulder plane or a chisel.

I want the shoulders to fit tighdy over their entire surface and the tenon to slide into place with a minimum of force for a good glue bond. Part of the long-term suength of the joint is the snugness of the fit, or what I call its mechanical strength, ilue adds strength, but how long does a glue bond last?

By its very nature a raort ise - and-1 e non j oi nt has wood fibers running cross-grain to one another, which weakens the bond. Flexible modern glues can accommodate some of this movement. Before gluing, I always dry-fit and clamp the parts together to discover any problems that may arise while there's still lime to solve them.

To ease assembly, 1 chamfer ihe ends of each tenon, ilue-ups can be stress-. With a long heritage of Trend Mortise And Tenon Jig Analysis over 63 years and , plus machines in circulation, our Customers have asked for more access to Shopsmith Engineer Support to: Provide recommendations for keeping your machine operating at optimum efficiency Help guide you through a procedure Assist with source materials such as diagrams, manuals, etc.

Guide you through part selection for a technical issue Direct you to the wealth of "Getting Started" Materials Or even just to walk you through how to get started! If his team can't help, it's likely nobody can. While we wish we could bottle Shopsmith Experts, and have unlimited resources, they just aren't available. Our equipment is such high quality; it lasts and lasts! Mortise and Tenon Joints. The mortise-and-tenon is Trend Mortise And Tenon Jig Uni one of the strongest joints in woodworking For blind joints, the tenon should be a bit shorter than the mortise depth, to allow room for glue.

Which first - mortise or tenon? The mortise should always be cut first, because it's far easier to shave tenon dimensions than it is to enlarge mortises. Loose Wedged. Three Way. Save by buying the mortise and tenon package.

The slot mortising package includes the router chuck, bits and shield you'll need to create the mortises along with the Shopsmith Tenon Master Jig. Cut perfect tenons every time with the tenon master jig. Provides extra support for your table during mortising or drilling operations. Slot mortises are created by drilling or routing, then sized and squared with a chisel.

Hollow chisel mortises are created by a square, tubular chisel with a drill bit inside. This method is faster and requires less sizing and squaring. Tenons can be formed by making repetitive dado blade passes with the stock laying flat on the work table surface - or by making usually six cuts with a regular saw blade and a tenoning jig that lets you stand the stock on end to cut the broad sides of the tenons cheeks.

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