Well once I got a piece of steel jammed between the work rest and the platen. Thanks for any bsnch you can provide me. View all: Mac Allister Bench Grinders. Our other favorite option was the KitchenAid Proline 7-Quart. In addition to the different speed settings, it has features that slow speed bench grinder uk 2020 other models do: a countdown timer, three power outlets, and an auto shutoff. This Gadjovich - Focht - Lockwood line was pretty effective in the last game as well. Dan your blog is the best thank you so much for sharing your knowledge this helps me alot im glad i did not purchase the motor i had pick out before reading this Thanks.

Hi Dan-I really appreciate all of the information your blog has. I have built a 2"x72" from your plans and with some components from Oregon Blade Maker. I was powering it with a treadmill motor, but that has burnt up after little use. Thanks, Jeremy. Hey Jeremy, I think you'll be very happy with that combo. Being a 2 hp motor your best bet is to have a V receptacle installed.

The 27D is rated for 1. I put the main power switch in my KBAC. There's a link to it here. Good luck and happy grinding! If yes, what wheel diameter do you recommend.

Hi Sasa, I can't say whether or not the motor will have enough torque to get a belt and all the wheels rolling. I have seen a YouTube video where a fellow used a Makita angle grinder and about a 2" 50 mm diameter wheel and it seemed to work ok. Plenty of belt speed. Hi Dan, Frist thank you so much for taking the time to do this. I know how much time things like this can take. I'm a little worried that since I got it so cheap it might not be a good motor for my new 2x I had a 1hp but it wasn't cutting it so I'm upgrading.

Based off of what you wrote this new motor should be an amazing choice. Am I correct or am I missing something about this motor? Thanks again for this guide. One can determine the number of poles by the nameplate RPMs. These numbers are approximate for 60 Hz motors. It is meant for attaching an impeller and used primarily for pumping applications. The specs for the motor are here. I decide not to mess with the motor and now instead going to buy a new one.

I sold some old tools and now have to funds to buy a good new motor. I was looking at the CEM Baldor motor. Based on what I read about it, this motor should be an excellent choice. Am I correct? Just wanted to check with you before I buy another wrong motor. Thanks again for helping us new guys out with this. I would like to point out that the motor is is 3 hp. There are 3 hp V single phase VFDs available they are quite rare.

If you had this in mind I can see it being a great combination. Best wishes, Dan. Thanks Dan again for your help. I did have a 2x72 by Pheer grinders but it was only a v 1HP. I bought it at the time because I didn't have access to a v outlet. Now I do and the 1hp really isn't doing it for me.

So I sold it and with the money I got from it I bought the stuff to make me a tilting grinder. I went to the 2hp and after I read what you wrote about it I thought I would just get a new one. Then I thought why not just get a 3hp motor? Had to convince the person to ship it to me and they did. Now I just need my motor. Any advice on good places to buy the cords for the VDF and motor? I bought my cords, strain reliefs and plug from my local Home Depot.

Hi, It's more a matter of the frame size and your power supply. If the frame size is a T, T or 56 you can easily get a drive wheel that fits. It's not so easy to find a drive wheel to fit larger motor shafts. If you've got the smaller frame size, then it's on to the power question. If you can provide the nameplate voltage and amperes then you can use it. A 5 horsepower will pull a lot of current to start. Without knowing the nameplate data it's hard say what the exact requirements are, but I would venture a guess that you'll need V on a dedicated 30 A circuit.

I have been looking for a motor for my build. I am thinking of a fixed speed setup but can only find single phase motors in the UK with rpm 2pole or 4pole I have been reading on the Origin website that may be too fast for small rollers and will burn the bearings out. On the other hand would be too slow?. I am thinking of a 1. Hi Paul, Small diameter wheels can be a problem with fixed speed motors. Depending on the grinder design, you can use a counter shaft and stepped sheave or two coupled with a belt.

This decreases the horsepower reaching the abrasive belt, but will give you some low cost speed selection to work with. You can run the little wheels slower and they will last much longer.

Motor selection may be influenced by how you intend to use the grinder. If I was working with a lot of tubing and notching small diameters, I would opt for the slower motor and save the small wheel bearings. I find in knifemaking I don't use the small wheels nearly as much as the flat platen or large contact wheel.

I would take the faster motor over the slower motor for improved abrasive performance at the higher SFM. Another option is to have two sizes of drive wheels and do a swap when you want to run the belt slower. Came across an opportunity to pick up a JM out of a treadmill, would this be a good motor for a belt grinder?

What would you recommend for a VFD? Thank you for your time and assistance. The only issue I have with the JM is that the motor is an open frame type and susceptible to dust contamination. Dust from a belt grinder is nasty. Even when running a shop-vac when grinding, I find metallic dust gets everywhere. It's impossible to say how long the motor will last, but certainly an open motor will die sooner than a sealed TEFC type motor.

It's pretty easy to wire up and is fully enclosed so dust and water stay out of the electronics. This VFD is rated for 6. If you are a little more adventurous and don't mind a some wiring and effort, you can save some dough.

I have a HuanYang 2. It's been in service for almost two years without issue. I see motors listed as Belt Drive. Does that make any difference for our application Thanks. Hi James, Belt drive usually refers to the application. These motors are usually open frame ODP types which need to be protected from the elements. A sealed motor is preferred for a grinder, but if the price is right an open motor can be used until it gives up the ghost.

I have converted a 12" craftsman lathe to run on a 3 hp treadmill motor with a KB electronics drive, done the same with a Bridgeport mill. Both work fabulous but the Bridgeport needs more low end ump. I need to put in double 4 step pulleys. Next I bought a 14x40 lathe and converted that to run with a 3ph 5hp VFD drive. Latest project, just finished a 3 wheel buffer using a 1. There is always more to learn, I found your page very informative and picked up a few tips on motor details.

Fantastic blog. Now I need to go read all the other pages. Big Thumbs up from me. Hi Dan, great info!! I would like to do a question. I'm going to build a belt grinder and here south America have v 50hz so motors run at rpm From what I can see the in the sfm calculator the ideal drive wheel is the 6" , what do you think?

Hi Leonardo, With a VFD you don't need to be overly concerned with the diameter of the drive wheel on a RPM motor as you can usually comfortably overspeed the motor by two times which would give you Hz or RPM. Try that in the belt speed calculator here. The cost of the VFD can be somewhat be offset by a less expensive drive wheel.

Regards, Dan. Many thanks to the take the time to respond to me. Now I change the hz in the speed calculator and yes a 4" wheel it's enough. Thanks again man, you helped me a lot with your blog sharing all of this priceless information and knowledge.

Cheers mate!! Hi Dan, I'm having a hard time finding a motor, too many variables. I was hoping you could point in the direction of a 3 phase with at least 2 hp. I dont know much about motors so if that's not possible I'm open to whatever you suggest. I know theres is also bushings that could adapt the wheel to a smaller shaft, not sure if that's an option. Any help would be immensely appreciated. Keeping cost in mind, I would recommend something from Automation Direct from which I have bought several motors and I am very happy with.

Being a three phase motor I have to assume that you have a VFD in mind. I hope this helps. As it's rated for 1. I can't recall if I heard it on here or another site in which you can run a 2hp motor off this vfd if you give the VFD v power, and if given v instead, it safely detunes the motor to 1. Is this the case? I'm just wondering if I should be searching for a 1. Also, would you by chance suggest a motor in specific to go with this VFD?

Thank you so much for your time! Hi Jordan, This is correct. The 27D is rated for 2 hp at V input and de-rated to 1. If you Powertec Bgss801 Slow Speed Bench Grinder 8 Inch Iphone have V for powering the VFD, then go with the 1. Set the internal jumper to 1. A 2 hp motor on the V drive may draw too much current and the VFD could be throwing over current trips when worked hard. This should cause no harm to the motor or drive, just a nuisance. I have two motors from Automation Direct. On that I would use on a belt grinder is the 2 pole RPM.

Hi Dan, Thanks for the loads of educational material. Thanks, Gary. The very best tutorial on motors for someone who is just starting out I have ever seen, and I have been an engineer since You gave all the completely true facts without leading anybody down the garden path. Like reversing a non reversing motor which is something a beginner should never even try. Way to go my friend. BTW, I only came across this article because I was looking for sanding belt speed for steel. Thanks for your comments Steve.

I've been trying to set the belt grinder guys straight. After answering questions for a few years I figured it was time to put this page up. If you feel there is anything that I can do to improve it, please let me know. It's ok I work with engineers all day long. LOL Cheers! Merci beaucoup Monsieur Comeau. I really appreciate your teaching and the way you do it straight to the point. I'm on my way to build my belt grinder and needed more knowledges on electric motors.

You gave us the best on the subject. I learned a lot with you. Mike, Awesome you are building your own grinder. I'd love to see some pics when it's done. Post a Comment. Belt Grinder Motor Guide. I get a lot of questions on the blog about what motors work for grinders. The truth is, many motors will work, but some are better than others. Then there are the motors that have their challenges. Armed with a little information, you can decide if a motor will suit your belt grinder application.

The first thing we look at when understanding motors is the different parts and what they are. The figure below shows a motor and the important parts. Although all these parts are important, there is nothing more important to us than the nameplate. Nameplate When it comes to figuring out a motor, the most of the important stuff is found on the motor's nameplate.

The nameplate is the label or metal plate that gives the manufacturer's name, model number, voltage, current, speed and horsepower as well as other details that will be useful in deciding whether a motor will work for your belt grinder. This is our example motor nameplate:.

The nameplate has a lot of info on it. Let's digest some of the important pieces. I will draw a red rectangle on the parameter so you can see what it might look like on your motor. It is attached to the frame with the same bolt that holds the gussets. Please clarify. Thank you. Am I not understanding something? Could this be made to accommodate wider belts?

Using something other than long board wheels? Gr8 build by the way! Many thanks Leon. Hi, The 8 x 2" wheel is part of the caster as it was purchased complete.

I tossed out its frame as I only wanted the wheel. I apologize for the confusion. That will work for most belts from fine to coarse. I guess if you could source wider wheels. The most common belts for knifemaking are 2" x 72". So you use a steel 8x2 caster but in the completed photo on top, you appear to have used an aluminum caster, did you find the steel caster to be too heavy? It's a cast steel wheel, but painted silver to look like aluminum.

Thanks for the quick reply, I contacted the caster company warned me that this polyurethane on steel wheel may be dangerous as the heat can lead to the poly coming apart and unbonding from the steel, have you encountered this issue?

Hi Adam. This is good to know. I haven't had any issues. I'd imagine the wheel would have to get very warm to cause the adhesive to fail. Thanks for the heads up.

Where did you find your ball bearings? I am using the roller bearings. They work fine if you grease them periodically.

Hello Dan, What is the name of the metal doohickey that attached the gas spring to the horizontal frame member? My gas spring came with odd looking attachments, i assume they have automotive uses.

They are specifically for gas springs. Mine were from surplus and had the brackets already installed. I believe the springs were intended to hold truck canopy doors open. Regards, Dan. I got mine on Amazon, they are called "gas spring mounting brackets. You can then weld or screw them in. They also come in various shapes. Any chance you have video of this in action? I'm just about finished mine, missing a few things and waiting on motor.

Thanks for all the info! Love when skill and knowledge are willing shared. Just wondering if anyone has had issues with tracking? Skateboard wheels was used,and your design for the wooden wheel. Motor is a 5 hp. We have adjusted and adjusted but it will not track as it should. Had black tape on the wheel on top back. At a loss as to what is causing the issue with tracking.

Driving us crazy with what to do to fix the issue. Hi, Tracking issues seem to stem from two things, wheel alignment and belt tension. Make sure that all the wheels are on the same plane. Plumb bob, straight edge, laser whatever you have. I checked mine with a framing square. One of the wheels must be crowned to track the belt properly. The tracking wheel works best for this. If using the electrical tape method, make sure the application of the tape is centered and uniform.

If the tape is on the wheel crooked, the belt wants to wobble side to side. Lastly, check the belt tension. Under tensioned belts will wobble, slip off and generally throw all kinds of tricks at you.

Belts should be in the 30 lbs range. If you want to drop me an email with a few pictures of your setup, I may be able to offer some advice. I used regular hubs. As long as they are all the same and it doesn't affect alignment you should be good. I just finished building my belt grinder, but I use a drive belt to a spindle on a dual bearing block with a 4" drive wheel on the other side.

I have tried 4 motor, but none will turn the belt, which turns easily by hand THey all turn like crazy when not hooked to the drive belt, but once attached, they just hum Last edited: Feb 13, Bad Goalie , Feb 13, Ginger Papa likes this. Ginger Papa and Luckylarry like this. Sloppy game and poorly reffed. Late calls on Woo and Eliot to create the 5 on 3 were very weak unless you're saying body checking is no longer allowed.

Liked Lind - at least on his shooting. Looked like Brett Hull on his one timers. However, defensive game is lacking and his line were on for some against and I thought Lind could have worked harder in that area.

Ended up a -2 Woo - good composure and strong on his skates. Did a good job of eliminating people from the play and taking them off the puck.

Was able to hold the blue line and still get back to the puck. Skating looks a strength. Doesn't show much offense and made a bad play in OT when with his team mates down low he went in and slammed one of the boards creating a breakaway the other way. Also got caught turning the wrong way at times as on the first goal against. Overall, however, thought he had strong game Focht - didn't play a lot but when he did showed good positioning and used that to get offensive chances like on his goal and break up plays in the neutral zone.

Smart player but probably needs a little more speed. Eliot - much better game. Showed good range and hustle throughout. Others Lockwood - has speed and agility - but might need a better stick. Good on the PK. Little like Motte Baertschi - seems to have lost any speed he might have had. Has enough moxie to create some offensive chances but slow through the neutral zone and getting behind the play.

Kielly - couple of softies but he was outstanding on the late 5 on 3 and in OT were he was left to fend for himself against open breakaways. Gadjovich - did nothing all game. Hardly knew he played Jasek - very ordinary. Not much to see here as well. Last edited: Feb 15,

Woodwork Guide Generator Pocket Hole Jig Walmart Canada 30 Fine Woodworking Kumiko 03