Liberty - Soft Close Ball Bearing Drawer Slide - Installation Video. Liberty Hardware Brands.  Dresser Drawer Repair, Installing Under-Mount Drawer Slides. Soft-Close Ball Bearing Drawer Slides Full Extension 12"" lb weight limit. FREE Mounting screws Included. Heavy Duty Slides. Brand New. C $ Top Rated Seller. Top Rated Seller. Buy It Now.  SponENsoAre7dVO3KE3K. 8"" Full Extension Ball Bearing Drawer Runners Drawer Slides AU. Brand New. C $ Top Rated Seller. Top Rated Seller. Buy It Now. From Australia. +C $ shipping. 15 Pairs 10"" Full Extension lb Ball Bearing Drawer Slides Slider SL Skateboard, Grinds & Slides: The basics that you need to know to get started for the first time. Learn by watching video tutorials for thousands of tricks from the top professional riders. Get a personalized plan which will easily adjust to your level and always hint which trick to try next. Shown above the drawers were rough fitted and work great. Speed washer size is based on axle diameter, and since the vast majority of truck axles are 8mm in diameter, that is most likely the size you will need. First create Sliding Drawer storage in the rear of a Chevy Express van. The end cap with drawer openings was then built and attached. You put them in the floor and on the bottom of your drawer and skateboard bearing drawer slides new slide out smoothly. Inexpensive bearings tend to be made skateblard cheaper materials; more expensive skateboard bearings contain better sealing, more inner ball bearings, and higher-quality metals. First we need to work out the height for the bearings.

They have no integral locking mechanism, so a separate mechanism is needed. As long as these limitations are acceptable, a bearing and rail system is a good inexpensive option.

This is also the lightest and most space efficient solution. A very thin strip of UHMW Ultra High Molecular Weight plastic, for example, can be attached to the bottom and sides of a drawer and cabinet to create a relatively smooth action. However, care should be taken to prevent the drawer from opening too far and creating a dangerous condition. Alternatively, a travel limiter can be fashioned to keep the drawer from opening too far.

This is a good solution for the most hardcore rock crawler types, where weight is a greater concern than the average overlanding rig. Slides Used in Drawer Systems. Ceramic bearings have ceramic balls, and more of them, but all of the other parts are still made of steel.

However, the steel and sealing tends to also be of much higher quality in ceramic bearings. Essentially, the decreased friction and smooth ride you get with ceramic bearings is due partially to the ceramic balls inside, but also the higher quality steel outside.

This combination of materials is why ceramic bearings tend to be pricier. In other words, ceramic bearings perform better partially because of the ceramic and partially because of the higher quality steel.

The balls in ceramic bearings have a super hard exterior, but the interior is ceramic powder. The advantage is that they are lightweight, but if the exterior of the ball is damaged, it pretty much falls apart though this is extremely rare. Ceramic bearings also contain more balls, which further enhances their ability to perform. Skaters loyal to ceramic bearings not only love the precision performance they get, but also that they require so much less maintenance.

Ceramics don't rust, and thus don't need replaced nearly as often as steel bearings. Bearing spacers are small metal cylinders that fit into a skateboard wheel between the bearings.

Their purpose is to reduce the weight distributed to each bearing, which can make your turns smoother and more stable and also extend the life of your bearings. Bearing spacers are totally optional; longboarders and casual skaters likely won't put enough pressure on their boards to ever need them, though they are definitely a good investment if you want to slide, do a lot of tricks, and generally skate hard. Bearing spacers are typically inexpensive, and can be made from steel, aluminum, or other types of metal.

Unlike bearings, bearing spacers are not one-size-fits-all. Bearing spacer size is measured by two things: axle diameter not to be confused with axle width! For example, 8mm x 10mm is a very common bearing spacer size. The first number 8mm refers to the diameter of the axle, and the second number 10mm refers to the overall width of the bearing. Most truck axles are 8mm in diameter, so determining axle size is pretty straightforward--you may even see the first number dropped from some bearing spacer measurements.

Determining the overall spacer width you need is not an exact science, but generally large longboard wheels will take 10mm, and skateboard wheels will take 8mm. When you purchase new bearings, the set may come standard with bearing spacers, but they can also be purchased separately. To install bearing spacers, begin by sliding in your first bearing.

Then flip the wheel over and press the bearing spacer in. It should be held firmly in the wheel core; if the bearing spacer moves or rattles around at all, that's a sure sign that your spacers are too small. Once the spacer has been pressed into place in the center of the wheel, slide the other skateboard bearing into place.

Speed washers are thin, metal washers that are slipped over the axle between the nut and the bearing, and the hanger and the bearing. Though they go by many different names speed washers, speed rings, bearing washers , all speed washers have the same purpose: to reduce friction in order to help the wheel turn faster. They serve as a buffer between the nut and the bearing, which allows your wheels to rotate quickly while also protecting the bearing face from damage.

Speed washers are an optional addition, though any rider planning to skateboard at high speeds Skateboard Bearing Drawer Slides 10 will definitely want to invest in them. Roller bearing drawer guides were then installed on the inside of both sides of the box, as well as both sides of the vertical center divider. These will be skate board bearings part number RS. These are 8mmX 22mmX 7mm.

I found them on eBay for about 40 cents each with free shipping, if ordered in lots of I thought I might need of them. So three days later my package of arrived at my door step. This side tubing became the drawer rails. This tubing rail will ride on a long row of roller bearings, as well as a row of 4 on top 4 toward the drawer openings above the tubing to support the extended drawer weight.

Drill a hole through the top end of the rail toward the very end of the rail toward the front of the vehicle. Weld this nut on the inside of the tubing end lining up the nut threads with the hole you drilled. After installing the completed drawers, screw a short bolt down into the threads of the nut. This will catch one the first of the top roller bearings and prevent the draw from pulling all the way out.

Next I needed to fabricate 4 1X1 steel drawer rails. These would be mounted on the sides of the drawers, and ride on the roller bearings. I preferred to side mount mine. The steel tubing would true up the sides of the long drawers. I cut my steel tubing to length and marked off bolt placement. Once all holes were drilled in the tubing I laid these out on my drawer sides. They were clamped into place, marked with bolt direction, marked top, and which side of which drawer these mated up with.

Then I drilled through the holes in the tubing, and on through the side of the drawer. This was done because no matter how well you mark and drill the tubing, none of the holes would be consistent.

The clamps were removed and brazing of the bolts was next on the agenda. Carriage bolts were used to make sawing the heads off easier than using a standard hex head bolt. I insert the carriage bolts through the hole, brazed the bolt on the thread side. Then power hack sawed off the bolt head. Once the bolt head was removed I brazed this flush cut end to the tubing…finishing off that side by hitting it with grinder to make it flush and smooth.

Here I have 4 complete rails. They were matched up with the corresponding drawer side. Using a rubber mallet the bolt ends were pounded into the pre-drilled holes in the drawer sides.

A flat washer and a nylon locking nut secured all bolts. The excess threads were sawed off and ground smooth with a grinder. Roller bearing placement was marked. Then bottom bearings every 12 inches. Toward the back add a couple that are spaced every 5 inches to carry the load when drawers are closed and you are traveling. You want these two rows to be precise. Almost creating a clamping action between the top and bottom row, to secure the metal rail in between.

You want no slop. Ideally when traveling down the road, the rail will have no room to bounce up and down. You do not want it to rattle or squeak. Excess threaded ends are cut off and ground smooth. You may want to install more bearings on the bottom row depending on your intended load.

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