Installing The Router Table Insert Table Saw Router Table — Part 2. Welcome to part 2 of table saw router table. This is where I'll install the router table insert plate and mount the router to it. This is my first experience using a router insert plate. My old table saw router combo just had a hole through the table and the router was attached directly to the table's top. This kind of limited how high I could extend some bits above the table. With the router plate, an extra 3/8" of height is available because the plate is only half as thick as the old table's 3/4" top. Windows 10 has built-in drivers for some adapters, so they can work on Windows 10 automatically. But if there is no built-in drivers for your adapter, or you want to upgrade the driver for it, the following instruction may help: Note: This article applies to the situation that failed to install the adapter through. EXE program and the adapter www.- file to download. (please download the latest driver from TP-Link official site, and extract the zip file to see whether your adapter www.- file.) Note: If there already is a driver but it's not working, you need to uninstall it first be. installing a. Router Plate Step 1 To locate the guide strips, use the insert plate as a template. Start by fastening one strip in place with carpet tape so its parallel with one edge of where the plate is to be located. After positioning the plate along this strip so its in its final location, you can wrap the plate with the remaining guide strips. Whenever it comes to installing a router plate, the challenge is always in sizing the opening to match the plate exactly. For the router table in issue No. 85, I purchased a template that matched the router plate I used.  Step 3 Before routing the lip, set the bit depth to match the exact thickness of the insert plate. To do this, mount the pattern bit in the router. Then place the insert plate on top of a guide strip. I mounted my coin buttons in the box under the panel. I also have a few none mame games that i play on here through steam, including Mortal Kombat 9, Injustice, and Street Fighter 4. I placed a bright light under the panel so i could see where the button holes were through the paper. I used a 3" hole saw to make a hole. All rights router plate insert install windows 10. Check the door fit.

If you are reusing a lockset, extend a line across the face of the door with your square, making sure it is centered on the strike plate. Measure the lockset to determine the distance the hole should be from the edge of the door. For the bolt, drill a 1-inch hole through the edge of the door with a spade bit. Make sure the bolt hole is centered from front to back and aligned with the center of the strike plate.

Insert the bolt into the hole in the door's edge. Align the bolt plate with the edges of the door and trace around it with your utility knife. Remove the bolt and remove the wood inside the outline to create a mortise for the plate. When you're finished, the plate should be slightly below the surface. Editor's Tip: If you have more than one or two doors to hang, consider investing in a hinge-mortising jig, which is a template for guiding a router to cut perfect mortises for hinges.

Several models are available. The simplest and least expensive ones cut one mortise at a time, leaving the placement of the matching mortise up to you. More complex jigs come with multiple templates that will position matching mortises on the jamb and door edge.

Most hinge-mortising jigs work with a router equipped with a template guide. The guide could be a roller bearing on the bit or a metal collar attached to the router's base that surrounds the bit and runs along the mortise template.

Some houses have openings that are trimmed out like a doorway with jambs and casings but have no door. These might be found, for example, between a kitchen and dining room or a den and a hallway. If you decide to add a door, you'll have to cut mortises in the jambs to hang the door and install stop molding.

If the opening is finished only with drywall, you might be able to treat it as you would a rough opening and install a prehung door. If it is you can nail the door frame directly against the drywall opening. Otherwise, you'll need to remove the corner bead and the drywall from the jamb and header faces to make room for shims.

Check carefully for nails, then lay out the hinge mortises on the jamb. Rout close to the layout lines. Finish the mortises with a sharp chisel.

Hold the door in the opening with shims and transfer the marks. After the door is hung and the lockset installed, rub a little lipstick on the bolt to mark the jamb for the strike plate. Using a spade bit, drill a 1-inch hole for the bolt; mortise the strike plate into the jamb with a chisel.

Save Pin FB ellipsis More. Hallway in home with gallery wall. Checking door for fit Image zoom. Using drill on door Image zoom. Drilling for bolt in door Image zoom.

Attaching bolt to door Image zoom. Fix Without Hinge Mortises Image zoom. Comments Add Comment. I attached these with short wood screws and glue. Do this for both sides, making sure you flip one so that these strips end up on the inside of the cabinet.

First you will want to round over both of the bottom corners of your side boards to create a smooth transition for your molding, i used a jigsaw. Before assembling the cabinet, now would be a good time to cut the slots for the T molding. I cut the slot along the front, bottom and back sides, it is not necessary on the top. These are simply threaded into the t-nuts and can be adjusted to keep the cabinet level.

Repeat the last step for the other side, attach it with glue and screws. At this point, you can then stand your cabinet upright. I cut my bottom panel from some scrap OSB i had lying around. If I had it to do over again, i'd use MDF. I used a 1" spade bit to drill some air vents in the bottom. I also cut the bottom rear panel and attached it. It is 8" high and 24" wide. I used a 3" hole saw to make a hole.

This panel is attached only using wood glue. The top rear panel is 24 x 5. I used a hole saw for this, i beleive 3" as well. This is glued in place. It is held in by gravity. I ended up installing a barrel lock at the top to keep it shut.

Using some 1x4 pine boards and the measurements form the included diagram, build a base for the control panel and glue it together. Once the box is complete, screw or bolt it to the base. Cut out the shape of your control panel, making sure there is an overhang over your box you just built.

Mark the locations of your controls. Take lots of time planning this, you will be stuck with it for a while. Take your time and do it right. I used a drill guide i picked up at harbor freight to keep the drill at a right angle to the wood. I wanted to mount my joysticks from below, with no visible bolts. I used some japanese sticks Sanwa JLW because they can easily be switched from 8 way to 4 way mode.

To fix this, i used the router to recess a pocket for the joysticks to sit in. I didn't want any visible bolts in the panel, so i had to use a trackball mounting plate. I also didn't want this to be visible. It will be flush mounted under the plexiglass and artwork. Before i could do that, i had to cut the trackball hole in the plexiglass.

This was done by clamping the plexiglass to the panel so that there was a small overlap on all sides. Place your plexiglass back onto your panel, being sure to line up the trackball hole and making sure there is an overlap on all sides, then clamp it in place.

This part requires patience, take your time so you don't crack your plexiglass. I do this in two parts. However you want the molding to sit flush with the plexiglass. To do this, you need to offset your slot by the thickness of your plexiglass. This will mean that some of the MDF will stick out below the molding, to eliminate that, i used a roundover bit on the bottom side of the panel, which hides the excess. I decided to mount my controls and make sure everything felt right before installing the artwork.

I mounted a standard pc case fan in the back to blow hot air out of the case. I used a barrel lock to keep the door in place. You just need to drill the appropriate holes in the back panels. I mounted my coin buttons in the box under the panel. The next step is to prime and paint. I designed the control panel artwork in photoshop.

Take your time and make sure it looks good when viewing it at full size. I made that image at 48 x 20" at dpi I had a photographer friend print it off on his big awesome printer on premium lustre photo paper.

You will want to make sure the artwork is slightly larger than your panel so you don't have to worry about the edges. If you dont' have access to a large format printer, staples can do it, or there are places online that specialize this this kind of thing, some that will even print on adhesive vinyl. Once you have your artwork, place it on the control panel and line it up perfectly.

I placed a bright light under the panel so i could see where the button holes were through the paper. I placed buttons in the holes as I went, just to keep it from moving. Re-install the plexiglass and install the controls. Find a spot to mount your control interface.

I mounted mine near the center of the panel to keep the wiring as short as possible. Each button will have a microswitch, and each joystick will have 4.

Using your ratcheting crimpers, crimp on a wire disconnect and connect it to the NO terminal on the switch, then route your wire to an imput on the ipac. THis needs done for each microswitch.

Once that is done, you need to connect a ground wire to every GRND terminal on every switch. These do not need to be discrete wires, you can chain them together.

You will be crimping a ton of connectors. Take your time to route the wires nicely, you will thank yourself later. Mount your trackball into the mounting plate and connect it to your usb mouse interface.

The one i used also has LED lighting that needs to be connected to a 5v and ground. The Optiwiz that came with my trackball provides this. There is planty of space inside the base of the cabinet to store a PC. I don't plan on going into great detail on setting up the PC, there are many other sources for this info. This instructable was for building the cabinet.

If you need more inspiration or assistance, check out the forums at arcadecontrols. If you followed the instructions, you should end up with an awesome 4 player pedestal cabinet. Here you can see the final product, with the original sketchup render. Thank you for the excellent write-up!

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