The Rail Coping Sled uses the table's fence as a guide, allowing quick, easy setup. There's no need to square up the miter gauge with the miter slot and then the fence with the miter gauge; the fence simply needs to be aligned with the bearing on the router bit. The sled's clear fence guide rides smoothly along the table fence and puts a layer of heavy-duty plastic between the user and the spinning cutter. Large, rounded handles provide complete control and enhanced safety, keeping the user's Rail Coping Sled 2010 hands away from the cutter.  The Rockler Rail Coping Sled () is priced at $ and can be purchased at www.- or Rockler Woodworking and Hardware stores nationwide, as well as through the Rockler catalog. www.- Tuesday, May 19, Smooth-running phenolic resin sled ensures perfectly square coped rail ends with virtually zero tear-out. The transparent guide runs along the fence 51mm (2) above the table, to enable compatibility with most router table fences and prevent cutting into the sled. Firmly clamps rails while using router to match stiles. The sacrificial block is easily replaceable to accommodate different profiles. Maximum workpiece dimensions are W x D: x 32 D mm (5 x /4). Fulton Rail Guide Coping Sled PRO For Cutting Profiles Into The End Grain Of Your Stock | Ideal for Cutting Precise Clean Joints for Cabinet Door and Drawer Fronts. $ (). Frequently bought together. + + Total price: $ Add all three to Cart Add all three to List. These items are shipped from and sold by different sellers. Show details. Buy the selected items together. This item:RAIL COPING SLED $ In stock. Ships from and sold by Rockler Woodworking and Hardware. Space Balls (Bag of ) $ In Stock. Sold by RokHardware and ships from Amazon Fulfillment. FREE Shipping o.

I've made lots of frame and panel doors just using my table saw. You can make a simple clean door using just one tool! However you are limited to making a simple door with no profiled inner edges.

To really up your game and achieve a more decorative door you need to use rail and stile router bits to cut the grooves,profiled edges and most importantly the cope cut that allows the rails to "mate" perfectly with the stiles. One of the most useful jigs you can have for the router table is the coping sled.

It can help make the cope cut much more efficient, accurate and safe. The ckping sled has but one purpose but it's an important one! Helping the woodworker make a cut across the end grain short end of a work piece to create a joint that allows you to build frame and panel also called rail coping sled question and stile doors.

This is a precarious cut at best and without support to back up the cut, you can easily hurt yourself or at the very least ruin your work piece. The basic anatomy of a coping sled is as follows: A base or "sled" for the work piece to ride on across the router bit, a stationary fence on the right hand side to provide sturdy support for the work suestion. Then there is a "sliding" fence on the left rail coping sled question side that can lock in place to clamp the work piece horizontally and a clamp to hold the work piece down vertically.

The base is 10"x 12", the stationary fence is 3" x 10" and the sliding fence is 2"x10". A good sled will also have two handles allowing the operator to safely move the sled and a "guide", usually qestion of clear plastic that provides a straight edge to reference against the router table fence. The guide ensures that the work piece maintains the correct distance from the bit while making the coping cut. We need two tee nuts for the guide standoffs, two for the handles and two for the stationary fence.

Next rail coping sled question drill through holes in the counterbores to allow the tee nuts to be rail coping sled question from the top side. I press the tee nuts into the counterbores using a clamp. Just a few turns of the clamp easily presses them into place. The base of the sled is now complete and we can begin soed. Before I move on, one note I did have to counterbore the spot where Rockler Rail Coping Sled 65 the handles go because the threaded stem of the handle wouldn't reach the tee nut.

Before you fully tighten the fence down ensure that the fence is squared to the sled. Add a washer here if you want I didn't but it can make things slide better sometimes. Add a washer to this side.

Next sledd the 2" hex standoffs. These little guys have rail coping sled question threaded "male" side and a threaded "female side". Male side goes down to connect to the tee nut. First I need to cut it in half lengthwise to copibg a 3"x 12" piece.

This is easily done at the table saw. I then peel off the protective film and chamfer the very sharp edges of the polycarbonate. This will prevent annoying cuts to the knuckles down the road. I then installed the guide on top of the standoffs using hex drive cap screws. To successfully tighten everything down without rail coping sled question the polycarbonate, you should leave the cap screws loose and tighten the standoffs all the way, then go back with a hex wrench and wled the cap screws snugly in rail coping sled question. I need to add the toggle clamp to the stationary fence.

This will allow me to clamp down on the work piece to keep it from moving as I make the cope cut. You can see here how it will secure the work piece and can be adjusted for thicker material if needed, just adjust the clamping bolt. That's it! The plywood sled is complete. If you need more, just make the base wider!

Easy peasy. You can see here the coping sled in action. The woodworker holds the guide against the fence and from right to left smoothly guides the work piece across the router bit. A small scrap of wood can also be used rail coping sled question "back up" the cut between the work piece and the stationary fence. This helps eliminate blowout that can occur as the rail coping sled question bit exits the cut.

This is what my cope cut looks like. You have two parts, the "tongue" that will mate with the groove on the stile and the "cope" that will fit the contour of the inner edge of the stile.

Here's rail coping sled question view from the back of the work piece where you can see these two elements more clearly. What if you don't have the plywood scraps to make this jig? You probably wont want to buy an entire sheet just to make one small jig.

Never fear, there's a rail coping sled question and cheaper way! You can use aluminum rail coping sled question to form the base and the two fences.

Note that I purchased these from a company called Misumi links above and the great part is they have tracks built right into them for fastening all the hardware! Slled simplicity, I used all the same hardware as I did for the plywood sled handles, standoffs, toggle clamp and polycarbonate. Rail coping sled question only difference was that I swapped out the tee nuts for sliding tee nuts more below on that.

There's really not much rail coping sled question to be done before assembly. You really just need to drill the holes in the fences to allow bolts to reach the base. You want to mark the hole locations right over the two outside tracks in the base. Do this for both the stationary rail and the sliding rail. Did you know that you can cut slex with regular woodworking blades and drill bits? Its true and that makes this an easy job!

You can use a handheld drill for this but a drill press will help you be more accurate. NOTE: the sliding fence really only needs one hole in the center. OK, everything will be attached using sliding tee nuts.

These are different that regular tee nuts because these have a smooth rectangular bottom that can slide in the grooves of the aluminum base! So useful! OK, good news is that all we have to do now is assemble this thing! First I add the stationary fence. I slide the fence into ril tracks in the base. Like before, I square the fence and tighten it down snugly. I then add the clamp to the stationary rail.

Your eagle eye might notice that bit of plywood on top of the fence. You may be rai, yourself "I thought I didn't need scraps for this version of the sled"? Well you're right, rail coping sled question don't. But I couldn't decide where I wanted my clamp to go and before I made a bunch queshion holes in my nice rail coping sled question fence I decided to add some plywood to the top to rail coping sled question it easier to move the clamp if I felt I needed to.

You can fasten the clamp directly to the aluminum fence using regular raik screws just as you would to plywood. Also rail coping sled question that adding the plywood and extra height will cause another challenge for us to solve rail coping sled question a minute or two Now I just add sliding tee nuts to the handles and slide them into place. This is one nice thing about the aluminum version. You can move these handles from one track to another based on where you want the handles located closer or further from the bit.

Now install the standoffs again using a ccoping nut as a spacer. Add your sliding rail coping sled question nut next. Then slide them onto the front side of the sled. Next install the polycarbonate guide the same as in the previous sled. First tighten the standoffs and then go back and tighten the cap screws. Here, though, is a problem. Because I added the extra plywood to the stationary fence, the clamping bolt wont reach the work piece. But I solved this by using a longer tee bolt.

If you don't know what a tee bolt is, it's a bolt that has what looks like a sliding tee nut for a head. It serves the same purpose allowing you to make jigs that have sliding components. I hope you found these instructions helpful! If you'd like to see more detail, check out this video where I walk step by step through the build! If you enjoyed this tutorial and found it helpful, you can see more of my work in the following places:.

Question 10 months ago on Step I kind of have an idea in my head but I'm curious as to how you went about squaring up rail coping sled question polycarbonate guide? Answer 10 months ago.

Put the polycarbonate guide against the router table rail coping sled question and then put your rail coping sled question against the router table fence and square up the stationary fence on the sled to the router fence. Since the polycarbonate guide is raill the router fence it will become square Rockler Rail Coping Sled Not Working to the stationary fence on questipn router sled. Reply 10 months ago. I have same question as ToddW.

Fulton Rail Guide Coping Sled PRO For Cutting Profiles Into The End Grain Of Your Stock | Ideal for Cutting Precise Clean Joints for Cabinet Door and Drawer Fronts out of 5 stars $/5(70). The basic anatomy of a coping sled is as follows: A base or “sled” for the work piece to ride on across the router bit, a stationary fence on the right hand side to provide sturdy support for the work piece. This fence should be squared to the sled/router table fence. Mar 12,  · Just registered with this forum in hopes of finding a simple and economical plan to build a coping sled to use on my router table. I have rail & stile Rockler Rail Coping Sled Size bits (never used) and desire to make a couple of replacement doors for vanity. Plan on 2 1/4 width rails and stiles. Any and all guidance.

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