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MK is a good brand of switches and sockets and they are always good quality and solid, so when looking fo some new light switches, they seem like a good choice, albeit not the cheapest. But I want some switches that are "retractive", i. MK panel door router bit set uk failed some of these, and they actually do modular switches, so I can mix and match what I need and where.

In some cases a "two way and off" retractive switch to work a dimmer is ideal, and others a single retractive switch, faild in some cases one of each paenl the same face plate. Sadly it seems that almost nobody has the whole range on their web site, and the whole range is huge.

They have a load of styles. There are catalogues from MK that list just one style, for example. The problem is, at the start, you don't necessarily realise what is possible, nor what is available from suppliers. Just to be clear, Screwfix is first port of call pamel it is a 4 minute walk from my front door.

This is a good start, I now have a working retractive light switch, and can confirm that in a deep back box there is space for the switch and a Shelly 2.

Working nicely. It proves the solution fits, and works, so now to consider if I want to change other light switches in the house, as I make things "smart". But I need to make small changes to the way things work - my wife is not going to allow me to change one switch at a time from the brushed steel light switches we have everywhere to a plain white switch like this.

I am not even sure the "press" label is going to go down well. But hang on, the git faceplate is an enamelled aluminium, somewhat uo to pass the wife test At falied panel door router bit set uk failed I think I have something that may be close enough to what we have now. The switch is white, but no "press" on it, Raised Panel Door Router Bit Set Yellow and the front plate is brushed steel. But not sure. If this is the best MK do it will do, so I ordered a few.

Then I discovered they have a range of other front plates, arrrg. And there are Grid plus, and Euro modules as well. It looks like "Aspect" may be what I want They are available in something like 13 different finishes, including rouher stainless steel. They are also screwless. One of the best documents showing the fajled styles is a technical document from MK.

So, let's look at Aspect in Brushed Steel finish I think OK I think we may finally be getting there. It looks like I have found switches that are I think that will meet with approval and be close ku to what we have to allow changing one switch at a time without looking wrong.

Fingers crossed. What is also fun is that MK have a really big range of modules. Including coloured indicators and a buzzer module! No, I have yet to find a use for these. They have loads of switches with pre printed labels, so it you make up one of their panel door router bit set uk failed grids of switches, you can touter them clearly labeled.

Faile to add to the fun there are Euro modules, which are actually very simple 25mm x 50mm or 50mm x doro rectangular modules.

I have seen these for networking before. For now. I'm going for MK Grid Plus. As some of you may know, from previous blog posts, I got quite good at milling PCBs. Basically, if you want to make small circuits at home, one option is a milling machine. It does have some key advantages ppanel the main one being time. You can foor an idea in the morning, and design a circuit, layout a PCB, mill it, pznel have it soldered and working by lunch time.

You can do several iterations of a board during a day. Another advantage is the cost - just the cost of the copper clad board, and paanel occasional new drill bit. However, there are limitations. The main issue is that is it single sided rputer whilst panel door router bit set uk failed double sided milled board can just about be done, it is hard to align and the holes are not plated, so need links.

So, moving on - what else is there? The answer is getting fast turnaround PCBs professionally made. Fsiled nice thing is that double sided and plated through hole now becomes the norm. But before I could get boards made, I needed a new way to design them. For milling boards I was using inkscape to lay out the milling path. Panel door router bit set uk failed was not going to cut it when someone fakled Gerber files. So I asked Twitter, and several people suggested KiCad - a free package that was available to run pnel my Mac.

It is nice, I have to say. It does the schematic, and then one button and you are in to PCB layout. It has design rule checks at each stage. The PCB but is nice - I worked out that I prefer the "push" mode where running a new panel door router bit set uk failed which pushes the existing ones out of fauled way. It has limitations, but makes it easy.

The other trick I did not realise initially is I can redraw an existing track in a new direction and it will remove the original part I have now bypassed, allowing more major track moves than "push" can handle, and making it easy to do rouyer tidy up at the end. It also does a lovely 3D view, and it seems that not only does its built in library have 3D models for lots of things, most components have them available as standard now.

Even panel door router bit set uk failed modules like the Pololu D24V5F3 regulator has one. I was able to add new parts at schematic, footprint, and 3D model without any real problems. And, of course, it will simply make Gerber files and Excelon drill files, at the click of a button. It is also rather nice being able to design for double sided with fine tracks - it makes it way easier to track boards and allows me to make a much smaller board.

And two days later, they arrive. They look nice. They are their quick turnaround product, which is fqiled with silver, and no solder resist or silk screen, but they work. The trick was lots of flux, and a good soldering iron. Tinning the pads first and then just heating the pin to fix it. It takes a bit of practice The challenge was to make a small as possible.

I think it came out well. The result is tiny. There is no way I could have made this on a single sided or milled board. I also made each GPIO have pads for a pull up resistor, or, if powering something from the connector, a zero ohm link. It has enough pins that this module could run my ASR33 teletype, kk be a lot smaller and neater than the node-mcu board I am using now so failee may happen.

One nasty hack was the USB connector I am using is through panel door router bit set uk failed - as that makes it a lot more robust their is nothing more annoying with these than pulling the connector off the pads by mistake.

But it has a lot of GPIO, and they default to input, so no problem, as long as the software knows not to use them. Obviously I had to tell the schematic that they were grounded too. Another trick was the the Pololu module was not fitted using pins. I could use pins and clip them short, but as panel door router bit set uk failed happens, with the through plated holes, just solder down the holes secures it nicely.

I only use 3 of the 4 pins, fai,ed that would have put a pin through the ESP module pads too, and not in a good way this time. I did have fauled remember to put a pad under the 4th pin else it ended up on a GND fill which would have been bad. The final new bit for me was building in serial for programming. This takes quite a bit pael board space.

So I investigated serial USB chips. Panrl checked some videos of people soldering QFN packages by hand, and figured I'd be able to. It even has a 3. There is one small downside - it needs a few passives. That is a pain on a small hand soldered board, and where I am trying to make it tiny just for funso I built without the passives.

This will mean the USB is not properly panel door router bit set uk failed matched. But it is good enough for programming in my tests, and that is all the serial lead is actually for. So what the hell? OK, yes, it annoys me to cut corners even on a fun board and I may try to at least squeeze the 27R series resistors at some point.

I am not normally one to cut corners. However, the small size, and passives, were not the only issue. It is risky in a way as panep "normal" serial port will make RTS low when ready for the ESP to send data, but it seems the common tools do not, so it works. What I was unsure of until I tested is that this pin stays high when otherwise idle, and when connected just to power and not a USB driver, and routet panel door router bit set uk failed. It does.

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